ST4 up for sale

I am wondering why the didn't use the brass boggie. the st4b has two.

Can you show a picture of the remaining caliper and how they were attatched to the frame? My 1958 ST4 has a similar modified brake setup with rotors at the driven sprockets but no calipers or evidence of any mounting brackets.

sure maybe later today. Snowtrac Nome, in above posts here, has been invaluable in providing background data on this rig. He provided info that led me to the very man who did the conversion. Again, info in above posts. He was specific that the brake/rotor/caliper lash-up is from a VW bus, and it's a simple bolt-on. No one has any idea why the right rotor was torched off, but it's a straight forward remedy. I'll get detailed shots of the mounting apparatus for the caliper. Nome also told me that the double drive sprocket is NOT stock for this rig....

If you don't buy the Snowtrac could the sellers info be passed on to me? I live in Talkeetna and was looking for a Snowtrac for cabin access and playing around. Thank You.

call me..it's on....378-0694..now would be good.

Thanks Steve Hovenden ST4 242 is mine. Machine is in pretty good condition. Previous owner had not run it in 3 years because of carb issues and I was baffled why the carb kept spitting fuel 2 feet out of the carb. After removing top of carb and scratching my head I found the problem. The carb being after market Weber/holley from the 80's, All the vacuum lines were cut and plugged. Well the carb overflow that's supposed to run back to the tank was hooked to the fuel pump by passing the float and shut off needle and going to the top of the carb. Plumbed the fuel line to the correct spot the machine fired up and ran Ok. The carb is worn out and the electric choke is not actuating. Pumped tires up and broke the track to correctly overlap the track. Removing the left side because you can see in the pictures above front bogie wheels are missing a shock. This is the result of a broke shock holder from ST 7613 front Yok. Breaking the track and removing Yok to bring to work to weld new shock holder. Brake was a ford caliper with markings not matching anything on google searches. I will have to measure the bolt distance and the single piston width to find something that will work. The rest of the braking system is original and will be getting replaced as well.
Well with new carb setup, electrical components, and aluminum sheeting to replace the T-111 on the roof I will have about $3700 into a decent St4.

Damn. Now that was a steal!

Just installed Weber 32/38 progressive carb. New manifold would not fit without grinding so I re-installed the old manifold. Once the carb was installed the rabbit motor jumped to life with a smooth purr and no hesitation when pushing on the accelerator. The modified good is round and k&n filer is square. Looks like I wlll using the old air filter too. Welding front bogie wheel assembly shock tower back on today.

Biggie assembly.

Nice rig I would take that deal any day! Congrats.

with your additional weight up front my big wheel conversion might be something you should look at. I just picked up one with a 70m horse Hercules engine with a side draft carb from a m151 in it.

Don I read your article regarding a big wheel conversion. I will look at doing that in the future but want to drive the snow trac the way it is this year. I have a cabin package to haul 10 miles into the talkeetna mountains. I have a new skandic but it really beats the shit out of the machine. Welded the front bogie assembly back together with shock mount. Main shaft was separating from were it goes through the plate so I tacked that as well. The other side is twisted and looks like it might fail it it's not rewelded. Thanks for the comment Track Addict

Another pic

I have seen 1" angle iron welded on the side for added strength.

Thanks JimVt I will keep that in mind for the other side. The front wheels must get a lot of stress put on them.

akimp said:

The front wheels must get a lot of stress put on them.

Click to expand...

I think that the later ST's had the angle irons on the side of the boggie trucks. They were welded on the lower edge, with the angle part at the bottom, to stiffen up the sides.

It's important to know this weakness when operating an older ST. When climbing something steep, at the top when the nose rolls over to let out of the gas and let it fall slowly, rather that belly flop it back onto the ground. Also not to hit anything hard at high speeds. If you do these simple things they will serve you well enough.

I have to say Don's big wheel conversion is a viable option too....

Regards, Kirk

go a head and try it I had one that looked like that it was a never ending battle welding it up. that is what spurred on the big wheel conversion. my new acquisition has the bars welded to the out side like some have done it still doesn't help relieve the stressed put on the rear boggie wheel as it holds so muck weight it seems that the spring pocket was always tearing out of the boggie assembly

looking at dons photos the last few years I can see why.
I keep thinking back to that 900lb moose on top and all your gear.

If this is the rig you are considering selling, I'm interested...