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Older Bombardier Muskeg worth restoring?
- Thread starter snowbird
- Start date
You have to mhave a minimum of 5 posts (which you do right now) to post. We had spammers come in and create hell for a bit with crap posts. Anyway try it now. If you still have problems contact DOC or BSKURKA or any of the other modies.
It looks like I can only post one picture per reply. Here's a chassis and motor serial number:
Whoops! I used Kodak Easyshare to edit the picture size down to fit the KB maximum. Probably not many viewing this post have Easyshare. I'm having a tough time getting my pictures to fit. Any suggestions? (I'm using Sony UX7 Digital Camcorder to get the pictures).
Whoops! I used Kodak Easyshare to edit the picture size down to fit the KB maximum. Probably not many viewing this post have Easyshare. I'm having a tough time getting my pictures to fit. Any suggestions? (I'm using Sony UX7 Digital Camcorder to get the pictures).
Well ,what you have posted so far shows it was made March 23rd 1976
Does it have or did it have a Perkins 4 cylinder 236 CI diesel ?
The tracks,tires and diffferential pretty much tell the story if it worth the effort to rebuild if you have to replace all of that. then maybe not if some or all that is good. then depending on what else it needs it most likely is worth it. all the parts are available we have all in stock. complete set of two new tracks with new bolts,belts and grousers and backer plates runs 7200.00 remanufactured differential 6500.00 air tires 125.00, solid tires 275.00,but unless they are real bad most can be run for a long time we are just now replacing tracks that have been on some machines 35 years.
more pictures will help keep them coming ...............Good luck
Does it have or did it have a Perkins 4 cylinder 236 CI diesel ?
The tracks,tires and diffferential pretty much tell the story if it worth the effort to rebuild if you have to replace all of that. then maybe not if some or all that is good. then depending on what else it needs it most likely is worth it. all the parts are available we have all in stock. complete set of two new tracks with new bolts,belts and grousers and backer plates runs 7200.00 remanufactured differential 6500.00 air tires 125.00, solid tires 275.00,but unless they are real bad most can be run for a long time we are just now replacing tracks that have been on some machines 35 years.
more pictures will help keep them coming ...............Good luck
It is a diesel, but I don't know the manufacturer. The imprint on top of the valve cover says "ZUNDFOLGE" with what is probably the firing order (1342) underneath. Sounds like a foreign label. Did the motor serial number in the picture I posted tell us anything about the manufacturer?
I'm going to try to get some different pictures taken today and see if I can post them. Apparently at least "boggie" can use Kodak Easyshare to view them, but I'll try a better file format if I can figure one out.
I'd say the most questionable feature right now is the track belting (it appears frayed on the edges of the two outer belts on each track). If it seems worth purchasing the Bombardier, I'll see if I can get the owner to fire it up and take it for a short test drive. Owner's wife says they drove it a few years ago.
I'm going to try to get some different pictures taken today and see if I can post them. Apparently at least "boggie" can use Kodak Easyshare to view them, but I'll try a better file format if I can figure one out.
I'd say the most questionable feature right now is the track belting (it appears frayed on the edges of the two outer belts on each track). If it seems worth purchasing the Bombardier, I'll see if I can get the owner to fire it up and take it for a short test drive. Owner's wife says they drove it a few years ago.
Most likely it is the Perkins 4.236 Diesel that is what the factory was using as of that vintage. If it runs and drives and all you feel it needs is track belting
then it most likely will be a good rebuild. New track belting for the machine
runs 475.00 per belt times six. it may have the Double D grousers or the Flat grouser The flat grousers are more expensive. That machine should have final drives hard to see but if you look in at the tub by the front drive hubs there should be a oval case next to the tub. you want these if possible they help extend your differential and axles. before they started using the finals it was not uncommon to break the front drive axles. if the machine was to carrier a heavy load through rough terrain. by heavy they were made to carrier 6000
pounds on the rear deck. we have mounted core drilling rigs to back of some of these units. but then they would add the pipe and the mud and alot of extras and pretty soon they are carrying 10,000 pounds with final drives they are not rated that high but you can do it. without it puts to much strain on the axles and differential.
we have included a picture of some Double D dent tracks
Big Al how many Krusty's is 10,000 pounds
then it most likely will be a good rebuild. New track belting for the machine
runs 475.00 per belt times six. it may have the Double D grousers or the Flat grouser The flat grousers are more expensive. That machine should have final drives hard to see but if you look in at the tub by the front drive hubs there should be a oval case next to the tub. you want these if possible they help extend your differential and axles. before they started using the finals it was not uncommon to break the front drive axles. if the machine was to carrier a heavy load through rough terrain. by heavy they were made to carrier 6000
pounds on the rear deck. we have mounted core drilling rigs to back of some of these units. but then they would add the pipe and the mud and alot of extras and pretty soon they are carrying 10,000 pounds with final drives they are not rated that high but you can do it. without it puts to much strain on the axles and differential.
we have included a picture of some Double D dent tracks Big Al how many Krusty's is 10,000 pounds
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I sure appreciate your help and prompt responses. I'm heading to the Bombardier with camera this afternoon. I'll try to get pictures that will help.
Could I just replace the belting on the 2 outer belts which are frayed? I'm not really sure the frayed belts are bad.
I don't plan to carry anything heavy with the Bombardier if I buy it. I just want to have it for fun. There's a lengthy instruction sheet glued outside the driver's side door which indicates the vehicle was used for something related to electric lines (safey warnings and procedures).
Could I just replace the belting on the 2 outer belts which are frayed? I'm not really sure the frayed belts are bad.
I don't plan to carry anything heavy with the Bombardier if I buy it. I just want to have it for fun. There's a lengthy instruction sheet glued outside the driver's side door which indicates the vehicle was used for something related to electric lines (safey warnings and procedures).
Could I just replace the belting on the 2 outer belts which are frayed? I'm not really sure the frayed belts are bad.
Just frayed belts do not mean they need to be replaced what works good it to take a propane torch and go along the edge of the belt and singe the edge so that all those frayed fibers are not sticking out and getting caught on things causing more fraying and damage. Most all Muskegs have 5 ply belts with the center one normally 6 ply and 6" the outer a most likely 5.5"
they can take a lot of abuse.
Just frayed belts do not mean they need to be replaced what works good it to take a propane torch and go along the edge of the belt and singe the edge so that all those frayed fibers are not sticking out and getting caught on things causing more fraying and damage. Most all Muskegs have 5 ply belts with the center one normally 6 ply and 6" the outer a most likely 5.5"
they can take a lot of abuse.
Thanks for the money-saving tip.
If and when I get to ride/drive this Bombardier, are there some things I should watch out for? Assuming the engine runs OK, I'm supposing I'd want to check out how smoothly it turns and how easy it is to shift gears. Perhaps I need also to evaluate the clutch (in a car I know they tell us to watch for pedal travel)? I've never driven a vehicle with steering via track speed differential.
If and when I get to ride/drive this Bombardier, are there some things I should watch out for? Assuming the engine runs OK, I'm supposing I'd want to check out how smoothly it turns and how easy it is to shift gears. Perhaps I need also to evaluate the clutch (in a car I know they tell us to watch for pedal travel)? I've never driven a vehicle with steering via track speed differential.
Also do not over look the condition of the rubber belting and the grousers. These are very pricey items and can make the diffrence between a good buy or and expensive rebuild project!
Thanks for the "heads up". I'm not sure what to look for in the belting except obvious crack or breaks. As I mentioned above, I noticed there is some fraying on the outside edges.
The grousers appeared generally OK. A little rusty. I've got a welder in case it's possible to repair them. I'll try to post pictures in the near future.
The grousers appeared generally OK. A little rusty. I've got a welder in case it's possible to repair them. I'll try to post pictures in the near future.
They sound fine. The rust is not an issue as long as its the typical surface rust every grouser gets when it sits during the summer months. This will dissapear after the first run of the season. The outer edges tend to fray anyway. Even a belt or two that needs to be replaced is not a big deal. Its when you have to completey rebuild the entire tracks themselves (gousers and belting) that it becomes to expensive. The tracks are always the first and last things I inspect on any snowcat. The engine and transmision and transaxle are next then the frame and back to the tracks and tires while I am up under it. Check the rims as well and see if they are all bent. This indicates they ran tires with low airpressures. If I see that then I really think they didnt do a very good PM on it before and after each trip. If they didnt check the air pressure what else didnt they check?
If the belts are just frayed at the outer edge then no big deal at all. Run then till they start to crack or you feel its time to replace. UV is the biggest killer of tracks so during the summer or off season store it inside. I spray the tracks down with a good UV protectant. Something like Armor-All or whatever you prefer. I also believe this helps "Condition" the rubber and makes it last longer. The only thing is the tracks become slick as snot and if like on most snowcats you use the tracks to step on to get in then this can be dangerous! You can face plant your face into a grouser and its never a good outcome. We had one of our employees do this on the LMC and it looked like someone slit him right up the middle of the face with a butchers cleaver. ALWAYS have a good hold on something when climbing into these type of snowcats! The armor all or whatever also goes away with the first seasons run.
Pictures are worth a thousand words! So post them up asap and we can give you a better idea. Also make sure to give us his conatct number. 
Just joking. But get us those pics.
Just joking. But get us those pics.I really appreciate all the help you're giving me.
At first glance, it appears to me the tires are solid rubber. Was that an option in 1976? A couple of the rubber surfaces looked somewhat weather-checked, but I didn't notice any flats.
I also have a home-made sandblaster if I needed to sandblast rust off the grousers, but as you suggest, the rust will probably get shined up in snow.
Do you think most contributors to this forum have access to Kodak Easyshare for pictures? I'm having trouble getting pictures posted and Easyshare was the only means I found of editing the size down to fit the forum.
At first glance, it appears to me the tires are solid rubber. Was that an option in 1976? A couple of the rubber surfaces looked somewhat weather-checked, but I didn't notice any flats.
I also have a home-made sandblaster if I needed to sandblast rust off the grousers, but as you suggest, the rust will probably get shined up in snow.
Do you think most contributors to this forum have access to Kodak Easyshare for pictures? I'm having trouble getting pictures posted and Easyshare was the only means I found of editing the size down to fit the forum.
Are you sick of pictures yet? Here's more: This portrays some possible metal fatigue on the back of the passenger side of the cab. Is the cab made of aluminum? (I hope not since I've not welded aluminum before: guess I could learn, though). I wouldn't judge the sheet metal to be in bad shape.
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You aren't kidding there! We bought our lamtrac used from a club in Michigan 3 yrs ago. We thought we were getting a steal on the price. The overall condition of the machine was very good but when we got it home and started digging deeper, we discovered that 3/4's of the grousers were worn and cracked. Also, at first glance, the belts looked like they were in nice shape. That was not the case. When we got it home and discovered the condition of the grousers, we removed some of the worst ones and found that the belts were worn and all splitting and seperating under the backing plates for the grousers. Now, $20,000canadian later, we've got four complete new track assemblies on their way. Thankfully, we got a government grant to cover the cost!