What's the difference between a metal cutting circular saw and a regular circular saw? I've got an old circular saw that I don't mind trashing but thought I'd check with the collective brain trust first.
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Metal Cutting Saw
- Thread starter XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq
- Start date
Normally... (at least for me)... it's just the blade.
A regular circular saw normally doesn't have the HP (and possibly the RPM's) to do it for any major quantity but it can do it. As you noted, the saw may get ruined as particles of both the steel as well as the carbide blade get sucked in to the motor for which it's not as protected as a good saw.
A regular circular saw normally doesn't have the HP (and possibly the RPM's) to do it for any major quantity but it can do it. As you noted, the saw may get ruined as particles of both the steel as well as the carbide blade get sucked in to the motor for which it's not as protected as a good saw.
A good sharp carbide tipped blade will cut aluminum like butter and at the same time make a noise that would scare off Satan himself!
I had to cut several sheets of 3/4" aluminum plate this way (Panel Saw with a wood blade). I wore ear plugs AND ear muffs and still had ringing ears for two days.
I had to cut several sheets of 3/4" aluminum plate this way (Panel Saw with a wood blade). I wore ear plugs AND ear muffs and still had ringing ears for two days.
Himself
New member
In general terms the saws made for wood will spin the blade way too fast for cutting metal with a tooth style blade. Way too many SFPM's.
The exception is Aluminum where speed is ok as long as you don't let heat build up because if you do the kerf will tend to close up on the back side of the cut as it cools. The material spreads because of the heat and contracts when it cools back down. I have agressively drilled holes in 6061-T6 and when measured with a plug gauge they are actually smaller than the measured drill size (.500"diameter, 10K rpm, 100 IPM, 1/2" flat stock) without coolant it looked like it was snowing and the holes were U/S, with through tool coolant all was well.
For thin steel the abrasive blades will work, keep your face protected.
For SS life just sucks without a slow cutting speed.
Allways consider that carbide tipped blades will resist wear and heat right up to the point where the heat softens the braze and the disc spits the teeth out like in a real good bar fight.
Any tool improperly used is a potentially deadly weapon but is encouraged nevertheless.
All the best,
Martin
The exception is Aluminum where speed is ok as long as you don't let heat build up because if you do the kerf will tend to close up on the back side of the cut as it cools. The material spreads because of the heat and contracts when it cools back down. I have agressively drilled holes in 6061-T6 and when measured with a plug gauge they are actually smaller than the measured drill size (.500"diameter, 10K rpm, 100 IPM, 1/2" flat stock) without coolant it looked like it was snowing and the holes were U/S, with through tool coolant all was well.
For thin steel the abrasive blades will work, keep your face protected.
For SS life just sucks without a slow cutting speed.
Allways consider that carbide tipped blades will resist wear and heat right up to the point where the heat softens the braze and the disc spits the teeth out like in a real good bar fight.
Any tool improperly used is a potentially deadly weapon but is encouraged nevertheless.
All the best,
Martin
Thanks for the feedback! I'm just getting into this metal work stuff so some of this obvious stuff isn't so obvious.
Bought some cutting discs yesterday. I'm sure I'll make a really ugly first welding project but it should be fun.
Bought some cutting discs yesterday. I'm sure I'll make a really ugly first welding project but it should be fun.