Squerly,
First the bad news. You garden will be a dissapointment this year. Ya needed to start it last fall.
Now the good news. You can rescue the project.
As soon as the soil is tillable, turn it over. Deep . Not with a rototiller but with a shovel. Dig as deep as you can ( at least 10 inches) and turn the soil.
Observe what you have. The soil should be full of organic mater. If not, you need to bring some in. Manure is best but rotted leaves will help. Forest soil is mostly rotted leaves so you will also need to add other nutrients.
Test the PH. It should be slightly acidic. Simple kits are available at most garden shops, including the big box stores like Lowes. And organic sulphur to get the Ph below 6.5. Most seeds won't germinate above 7.0
Add bone meal especialy where you have root plants. Use a balanced fertilizer like 12-12-12. These stand for N,P,P or Nitrogen, Phosphorous, Potasium.
Do not use a fertilizer high in Nitrogen. That would be the first number. Good for lawns but it will cause less fruit growth.
Phosphoruous and potasium promote strong stems , flowering and fruit production.
Now is the time to get these fertilizers in the ground. You can spread it before the first dig or after. You are going to dig again in about three weeks to get a good mixing. The second dig can be with a tiller.
As others have said orient the crops to benefit of the sun. Since you have two sections you can consider them separately and make crop rotation easier.
Simple rules on rotation. Grow corn after beans, beans after tomatoes and never grow tomatoes in the same soil two years in a row. Always clear tomato vines completely from the garden, never compost them.
Never dig rows up and down the hill but always horizontal to the slope. That seems perfect for your garden orientations.
Your soil will lend itself to potatoes and yams. Plant them in soil that does not have much fresh manure. On the other hand, cucumbers and squash, any of the mallow fruits and veggies, plant in manure. I always put manure in piles or rows and plant my mallows there one year and follow with taters and maters the next year.
Taters and maters are from the same family. You can grow them together. I mean literaly together. Frangible clay soils that contain a lot of sand, or even small gravels, is good for either. Both like a high mineral content.
If you plant corn, in your area you will have to protect it from racoons. Welded wire mesh fencing at 6 feet will restrain them but only with some success. Around here we actualy build an enclosure over the corn. As mentioned, sweet corn might not be a good plan.
Straw berries from seed will dissapoint you. I do hope you bought plants. Those you can plant anytime in permanent rows. Raspberries will also do well in you soils. You will get crops this year if you plant nursery stock.
Frankly, I would plant them in the little hill between your two garden plots.
If you wish to do asperagrass, you must start with mature roots systems and plant in pure compost manure. Do not harvest for three years. So if you planted today you would not be able to harvest untill 2016. If you do seed, make that five years or 2018.
Mulch everything well and you will use less water. I would put drip lines under the mulch. Relatively cheap and better for the plants as the fruit will not suffer from moisture blights.
So in review, dig the ground asap. Add amendments. Dig again in three weeks. Till to fine granules and plant your veggies in rows, your fruit plants in berms and your mallows in little highly manured hills.
Just add water.
enjoy.
At least until the bugs, pests, varmints and diseases come to rob you.
And remeber this axiom of gardening,,,,No matter what happens to your plans, your plants, your hopes and dreams,,,,there is always next year!