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DMC 1450 water pump

BearGap

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
I need some advice on replacing my water pump. It’s starting to make gerbil noises and I want to replace it, thermostat, belts and hoses before I really take it out.
Going in thru the front requires taking out 3 radiators. The main support bolts for the coolant unit are barely reachable from inside the engine bay - not sure how I would get them back in. Is this a cab removal job? I’ll appreciate any ideas.
Thanks,
 

olympicorange

Active member
…… can you take some pics of the water pump , fan, belts , shrouds, engine area, etc… and post them. would be helpful,... thx, willing to help,...
 

BearGap

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Here you go. It looks like there is about 3” between the fan and rad, maybe enough for a socket on the fan bolts. It might be doable with the shifter, upper road hose, alt., and the permanently inflexible heater hoses out of the way.
What do you think?
Reminds me of the 10 years I spent with a Healy 3000 as a daily driver. Lots of sore fingers.

Thanks very much,
 

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JimVT

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
it looks like you may be in for sore fingers again. just watch that radiator .it has been bumped when worked on the last time. if the pump doesn't clear look and see if you can loosen the radiator some.
 

BearGap

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Found my hydraulic pump

I got it up on some treated 8’ 6x6s to gain a little wiggle room underneath. I got access to the bottom rad hose when I took off the screen access cover for the hydraulic pump. clap:
I thought it was electric for some reason, but it’s belt driven. Dr. Zaugg is of the opinion that it should still be pumping fluid through the rear diff for cooling. Is there a way to verify?
Thanks,
 

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olympicorange

Active member
……. hello B/G, ….good job on pics. HOW old is that upper radiator hose...lol.. so , looks like plenty of room to go at it from the passenger side. couple options there; remove seat for more room, or put some boards on top of the tracks & cut a piece of thick plywood to slide in over the seat (with supports), for a nice flat platform , if you don't mind kneeling. I would remove the V belts first, and grab ahold of the fan blades & check w/p brg. for ''play''. then spin it to see if it's ''noisy'' or rough/free wheeling. also check alt. brg. the same, or any other pulleys, etc. if the w/p seems o.k., then I would be suspect of another item; belts, etc. but 3'' is usually enough room to get a long handled , 3/8'' flexhead ratchet in there to loosen fan blade/ spacer/v-belt pulley bolts ,( usually a 1/2'' socket (5/16'' bolts dia.). the bolts are usually too long to slide out of the fan/spacer, but free up the fan/spacer off of w/p shaft/shoulder ( usually frozen on ). and move towards the rad. fins, and off to one side, for room to get v-belt pulley off & out of the way. also allows access to the w/p bolts. remove hoses , as needed. unbolt w/p , break free ,...should be enough room to remove w/p assy. out, then the fan/spacer /bolts should be able to be removed also. gives you enough room for cleaning ; gasket areas, grease (noticed some on fan; possibly frt. crank seal, oil pan gasket, etc.), and inspection of the frt. engine components, etc... reverse procedure to assemble . ( hint; take a ''junkyard'' pen and mark bolt holes locations , on all components , for ease of alignment)….:smile:
 

redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
find out what the fan got into.

when we did fox hat josh's we started with the deck and found the seat handy to lay on. we wound up with the cooler out the radiator out and still hated life.

Your photos show promise as OO states that spacer will buy a lot of real estate.

I have to plug milwaukee tools for their powered ratchet.

I go with the older smaller 3/8" the newer fuel hold up better but the older fit in many places.

I have a beater around here some where and that one is going to get its handle cut off and some jumper cables made....
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
I agree on the promise.

Get the coolant drained out into a bucket.

Start with the top radiator hose

Then the fan (As mentioned mark stuff to make alignment easier)

Layer by layer ...once you get some of the stuff off you will open up more room and then the water pump will come into view.

Is there an access panel to get in from the bottom ??

No doubt its going to present plenty of opportunities for the shedding of skin and bleeding.....


I have seen so far with my 2100 that the placement of parts in these cats does not always reflect the mechanics best interests....


Good luck

Take more pics as you dig into the beast...

A suggestion.....pick up all the extra wrenches you find at garage sales....they are great for cutting up and welding strange handles on to get to places that nothing will fit....

Another item that is of great help... The ratchet end wrenches...these also come in a flex head on the ratchet end too.....soooooo good for nasty places

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-8-Piece-12-Point-Metric-Flexible-Head-Ratchet-Wrench-Set/3367222

Worth every penny..... The piccy is a metric set, but they come in SAE too.....Just found the piccy that showed a good view...
 
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BearGap

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Got the seats out and engine cover/surround out and have lots more access. Thanks OO for the great help!!
S/R, I have a lower access screen, but the whole area is filled hydraulic pump stuff. I’m pretty wrench happy, and I get to use an old Proto boxend I’ve had for 50 years. I just ordered the smaller Milw cordless ratchet.
Draining coolant and starting on hoses next. Still trying to figure out how to get the heater core assembly out.
 

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BearGap

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Made pretty good progress today. The worst part are the heater hoses and clamps. They are routed with little clamps with slotted screws and 3/8” nuts, and hold wiring as well. Rusted and not easy. Might have to dremelize them.
Not sure, I might need to remove the right headlight to access the hoses at the heater core end. Can’t see how to remove the heater box yet.
Should be able to get the fan off in the AM. It definitely has a little wiggle from the pump bearing.
Thermostat was really cruddy, but the coolant looks new.
No good access from below except for the bottom rad hose clamp and hydro pump belt adjust.
 

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BearGap

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Water pump part number

The fan came out with no issues. Flex head ratchet mandatory. Thanks to OO!!
Pump out to with no problems. Pictures show part 30385-1A.

Thanks,
 

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BearGap

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
I decided to get the radiator serviced, and it’s a great way to double my work. Finally got it out today and it’s pretty ugly. I had to cut the trans cooler lines...they look original and super hard so I’ll have to replace them both. It’s ugly too, I might have to replace. Didn’t have to remove the hydro cooler just loosen and move.
Lots of evidence of prior work. Looks like the whole front has been messed with, lots of stupid mismatched fasteners and multi color zip ties.
 

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BearGap

Active member
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I want to give my coolant rad more breathing space.
I’m thinking of relocating my trans cooler to the passenger headlight area. I saw an Imp or 1450 somewhere that had something like this and it seemed like a good solution.
These coolers are nice and have a fan. Any thoughts or advice?

Thanks,
 

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BearGap

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
DMC 1450 hydraulic pump belt

The 1450 uses a Gates timing belt on the crank driven hydraulic pump:
Gates 240H100.
I get to wait a week for one to arrive. Just a heads up in case someone needs one.
Here’s a picture of the pump mount.
Dan
 

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Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
BG,

I can't speak to the location, or the amount of room available, to mount a cooler on your 1450.

We used Derale brand remote coolers on Thundercat. We chose two model 15960 coolers; one each for the transmission and engine oil. We used it's bigger brother, the model 15875, for the hydraulic system. All three are controlled with individual inline thermostat switches.

The 15960 coolers use a 500 CFM fan, and are rated for 46,000 BTU's per hour of heat removal.

The 15875 uses an 800 CFM fan, and it's rated for 67,000 BTU's per hour of heat removal.

The two 15960 units are mounted under the floor in the rear section of the cab, and the 15875 is mounted under the bed. We plumbed them with steel tubing bent accordingly for each unit.

We will very likely use a Derale cooler on Snowzilla for the transmission, and perhaps one for the hydraulic system as well. But the available real estate for mounting such is limited.
 

BearGap

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
That is some serious cooling capabilities! Very nice for sure. I hear you about scarce real estate as the 1450 is lacking any easy place to put it. I’m getting a 10”x13” Setrab that’s about 26,000 BTUs. I’m going with AN-6 fittings so I’ve got some routing to do. I’m trying real hard to not have to take this thing any more apart than I already have it, so I’m thinking the AN route might be simpler at this time. There is no room anywhere with this cat having all 3 hydro options.
I’d love to test the hydro pump and diff cooling, but I’m going to wait a little. Moving the trans cooler will make it so much easier to get at this stuff a little later.
My rad is in the shop. It’s had a tough life with some past repairs so I’m crossing my fingers.
Thanks very much for the input :thumbup:
 
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