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Proper Tucker tie down

mikemikelle

Active member
20190323_115051.jpg

As some of you may know, my neighbor just purchased the beautiful Tucker 442 that was for sale on Ebay. He is new to snowcats, and I am new to Tucker.

Any advice on the do's and dont's of trailering? Proper tie down techniques? Have heard straps instead of chains, proper location for these? Want to eliminate possible damage caused by clamping things down to tightly, etc?

This machine is a 1966 442 with modernized tracks. Just acquired a nice deck over trailer w/a beaver tail and swing down ramps. Want to mount additional D-rings, strategically placed, to facilitate easy/fast loading and unloading.

Any advice much appreciated

Thanks in advance!

20190323_115045.jpgCopy of 20190323_115025.jpg
 

GlacierSean

Member
SUPER Site Supporter
Two straps in the front and back. Hook them to the axles with axle straps or ratchet straps that can hook back to themselves. Cross the straps to make an X. Probably us 3in straps.
 

JimVT

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
straps are handier but I recently went to chains and the twist type binders because when straps get wet and freeze they are very hard to use. the newer binders are also a big improvement.
jim
 

Backyardski

BackyardskiLima
GOLD Site Supporter
When I saw you had a thread called tucker tie downs I was hoping it was going to be the cab forward tucker, didn’t you corral one a while back? Or did that go to someone else?
 

Track Addict

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
i don’t alway use straps but when I do it’s dos strapies on each axle housing.

Tractor Supply sells some nice soft axle straps you can then hook chains to. Two front and two back on each side of the axle housing works well crossed.

I got away from nylon because they freeze and stretch when wet. Chains and ratchet binders work well. Some of the axle strap end hooks don’t fit on some chain ends so watch for that.

In addition I like to tie the cab/frame under the driver and passenger door areas to the trailer. Nylon ratchet straps work fine here. There is usually an angle frame support you can catch. Keeps the body from whipping around on bad roads. The more worn the Tucker the more body whip and roll you get.

You want to avoid strapping the cat and putting the springs under load.
 

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Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
mikemikelle;

As some of you may know, my neighbor just purchased the beautiful Tucker 442 that was for sale on Ebay. He is new to snowcats, and I am new to Tucker.

Any advice on the do's and dont's of trailering? Proper tie down techniques? Have heard straps instead of chains, proper location for these? Want to eliminate possible damage caused by clamping things down to tightly, etc?

This machine is a 1966 442 with modernized tracks. Just acquired a nice deck over trailer w/a beaver tail and swing down ramps. Want to mount additional D-rings, strategically placed, to facilitate easy/fast loading and unloading.

Any advice much appreciated

Thanks in advance!


Mike,

You and your neighbor get major kudos for doing it right and asking! Seriously, there are right ways and wrong ways, and the wrong ones risk damage to your machine and potential injury as well. (That looks like an awesome trailer, BTW!)

Glacier Sean summed it up succinctly. You want to attack the straps (or chains if you prefer, the downside of chains being chipped paint) below the springs and the axles are a great location. Put the straps outboard of the springs, and as Sean said, cross the straps in an X pattern.

As reinforcement for this technique, here's a photo of a Tucker demo machine that they haul around for thousands of miles annually on their trailer.

IMG_1344.jpg

A photo of the front straps with the lashing winches welded to the trailer.

IMG_1364.jpg

I use 2" Vulcan brand ratchet straps with snap hooks at both ends and 24" axle straps with wear pads that have plated steel rings at both ends. Loop the axle straps over the axles just outboard of the leaf spring perches and connect the snap hook through both rings. Then connect the other end (with the ratchet binder) to the trailer and ratchet away until it's tight. After a few miles of trailering its a good idea to stop and check the security of the load and the strap tension. You'll find the straps may have loosened just a bit, so re-tension the straps with a few clicks of the ratchet binders. That's also a good time to feel the hubs on each wheel to make sure they're not too hot, which would indicate a wheel bearing problem.

The last Tucker I bought had some really clever tie-down points. The plates on top of the leaf springs (that the U-bolts attach to) had been replaced with ones that were beefier and had an extension with a large hole in it for attaching tie downs. A picture would illustrate much better than my words, but I don't have one. (I'll get one and post it to this thread in a few days.)
 

mikemikelle

Active member
Jesse will dial you in on proper tie down procedure.

Our thoughts exactly; just wanted to make sure we had covered our bases with options and proper equipment. Don't want to show up without anything, and no way to perform it. That would be bad form!! That machine is too nice to screw up, and especially in front of the guy who just put his heart and soul into the restoration (not to mention his _ss, financially). The sale wasn't a money maker for him, but at least he'll know that we'll take care of his fine work.

Thanks everybody for the tips. Much appreciated!!
 

mikemikelle

Active member
When I saw you had a thread called tucker tie downs I was hoping it was going to be the cab forward tucker, didn’t you corral one a while back? Or did that go to someone else?

That belongs to GMoose, and he has started a write up about it's restoration. We are due for a follow up GMoose?
 

redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Our thoughts exactly; just wanted to make sure we had covered our bases with options and proper equipment. Don't want to show up without anything, and no way to perform it. That would be bad form!! That machine is too nice to screw up, and especially in front of the guy who just put his heart and soul into the restoration (not to mention his _ss, financially). The sale wasn't a money maker for him, but at least he'll know that we'll take care of his fine work.

Thanks everybody for the tips. Much appreciated!!

Mostly an inside yoke about a driveway somewhere.....

I can't confirm or deny having moved a now cat into or out of that part of the country. But i can say I was glad to have tied it to the trailer tightly. and I am glad the trailer was securely hooked to the truck..... Just make sure your pilot car has good review mirrors on it......

+ 1 on the craftsmanship, enjoy the cat.
 

RRose

Active member
SUPER Site Supporter
Our thoughts exactly; just wanted to make sure we had covered our bases with options and proper equipment. Don't want to show up without anything, and no way to perform it. That would be bad form!! That machine is too nice to screw up, and especially in front of the guy who just put his heart and soul into the restoration (not to mention his _ss, financially). The sale wasn't a money maker for him, but at least he'll know that we'll take care of his fine work.

Thanks everybody for the tips. Much appreciated!!

I absolutely agree! I’m was interested in reading this thread myself - I’m picking my first Tucker up next week too. I’m gonna add the cab straps to my tie down plan like Track Addict mentioned. I was talking to Jesse yesterday and he mention not being able to trust the hood latches - and suggested strapping the hood during transport.
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
As promised, here's a pic of the tie-down spring plates.

IMG_2101.jpg

One nice thing is that if you prefer chains to straps, these are more than heavy-duty enough.

One Tucker I bought had D-rings welded to the carriers as tie down points. Not a bad idea, but these were the same type you see welded to trailers and they rattled quite a bit. We cut them off and then welded some steel plates to the carriers in the same location and then some shackle clevis mounts to the plates. In all honesty, I think the tie-down spring plates is a better idea.

Scott and I have thought about using his cad system to draw-up the design and have some of these plates water jet cut if there is interest among forum members for such a product.
 

PJL

Well-known member
The LMC1200 has these welded to the frame front and rear. Latching hooks and ratcheting binders tie it to the trailer. Very happy with them. Only issue is the ratchets need frequent lubrication or they are very difficult to operate.
 

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mtncrawler

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Surprised you didn't go gooseneck. Weight distribution hitch be a good idea. Through bolt a couple 4x4's or angle iron on the deck under the cats tunnel inside the pontoons will help stop the machine from sliding sideways. The pipe the ramps slide on became corroded and cranky in short order on my trailer. You might put a couple grease zerks in there before that happens. I also found it easier to release the top pin to drop the ramps so I welded on a small piece of angle iron to catch the arm so it doesn't go to the ground where it will get bent. Nice trailer!
 

JimVT

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
I just finished loading for a long trip tomorrow. the cabin hasn't been on in a couple years. you can see how much I stretched it. the back of the cabin was the stock length. I have 1820lb trailer weight on the pickup. one antenna reaches 15ft . chain binders each corner and straps on the ramps.
DSC00253.jpg
 

mikemikelle

Active member
The LMC1200 has these welded to the frame front and rear. Latching hooks and ratcheting binders tie it to the trailer. Very happy with them. Only issue is the ratchets need frequent lubrication or they are very difficult to operate.

Thanks PJL. My Imp has virtually the same setup
 

mikemikelle

Active member
As promised, here's a pic of the tie-down spring plates.

View attachment 112220

One nice thing is that if you prefer chains to straps, these are more than heavy-duty enough.

One Tucker I bought had D-rings welded to the carriers as tie down points. Not a bad idea, but these were the same type you see welded to trailers and they rattled quite a bit. We cut them off and then welded some steel plates to the carriers in the same location and then some shackle clevis mounts to the plates. In all honesty, I think the tie-down spring plates is a better idea.

Scott and I have thought about using his cad system to draw-up the design and have some of these plates water jet cut if there is interest among forum members for such a product.

Thanks Blackfoot for the comments, and especially the pictures. Like this setup for keeping paint intact. Wrapping straps over the axle is strong, but works like sandpaper on a nice new paint job. When I built the Imp ski trailer (thread last year) I welded in several strapping points that are almost identical to what you have there.

Question- I see the axle strap thru the plate, with both ends connected to the snap hook on the ratchet strap. Is that because the snap hook was too small for direct connection to the plate? Guess in that case I don't understand the axle strap usage.
 

mikemikelle

Active member
Surprised you didn't go gooseneck. Weight distribution hitch be a good idea. Through bolt a couple 4x4's or angle iron on the deck under the cats tunnel inside the pontoons will help stop the machine from sliding sideways. The pipe the ramps slide on became corroded and cranky in short order on my trailer. You might put a couple grease zerks in there before that happens. I also found it easier to release the top pin to drop the ramps so I welded on a small piece of angle iron to catch the arm so it doesn't go to the ground where it will get bent. Nice trailer!

That trailer was purchased by my neighbor for his new Tucker. He has a pick-up w/canopy, so "standard" was necessary (and "yes" I have told him weight distributing on the hitch). My truck is set up for a goose neck (although I don't own any), and also has a Kelderman rear suspension w/ 20,000 bags, so I don't even know the trailer is back there when hauling.

Really like the suggestion of mounting some sort of sideways slip prevention, especially if required to load while a bit off camber, and the zirks, and the arm stops..thanks!!

Since we're talking towing, and most all are motorheads, and most all like pretty pictures, and I feel completely upstaged since I didn't get a new resto-Tucker, I'm gonna hijack my own thread- love this truck, 15 years of good service and it still looks new, 109k on the ticker

assorted photos 194.jpg20150821_114120.jpgassorted photos 037.jpg20180717_212541.jpg20150821_114208.jpg
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Question- I see the axle strap thru the plate, with both ends connected to the snap hook on the ratchet strap. Is that because the snap hook was too small for direct connection to the plate? Guess in that case I don't understand the axle strap usage.

Your powers of deduction are excellent! Yes, my ratchet straps are too short for this application (they were specifically purchased for securing a different vehicle on a different trailer).

Did you add the Kelderman system, and what are your thoughts on it? It's one thing to read what Kelderman says, but getting the opinion from an actual owner is way more valuable, than a manufacturer's claims. I've thought about putting that on my truck, but have thus far resisted the temptation. It would eliminate this:

DSC00380.jpg

I did add air bags, but they occupy the space for an under-bed trailer hitch setup, so no gooseneck hitch (or trailer) for me.
 

mikemikelle

Active member
Your powers of deduction are excellent! Yes, my ratchet straps are too short for this application (they were specifically purchased for securing a different vehicle on a different trailer).

Did you add the Kelderman system, and what are your thoughts on it? It's one thing to read what Kelderman says, but getting the opinion from an actual owner is way more valuable, than a manufacturer's claims. I've thought about putting that on my truck, but have thus far resisted the temptation. It would eliminate this:

View attachment 112374

I did add air bags, but they occupy the space for an under-bed trailer hitch setup, so no gooseneck hitch (or trailer) for me.

My truck was built by a conversion company in Indiana. 2002 cab/chassis, bought new and custom built 2002. I purchased in 2004 w 30k on it. It was built w/ the Kelderman, so I have never experienced a 1.5 ton without.

Not sure if all of theirs are the same, and never have looked at their promo stuff.. That being said, it works great.

Just looked at their site. What I have is a 2 Stage Air Suspension

The springs/overloads are used the same as in your application, so the stock springs are utilized. Difference being that the springs are mounted to a floating carriage, so they have more room to move (The other difference, my 2002 F450 springs are substantially bigger). The beauty is that you can adjust the rear height for different trailers at the push of a button. More air-taller, less air -shorter, or (when empty) run low pressure for the Cadillac touch. The truck still rides hard when empty (compared to a car or 1/2 ton truck), but I think it rides softer than a stock single tire 1 ton. Weighted, it rides nice! Hauling a huge travel trailer, with 1800lbs of smoker and camp kitchen on the back, no tail sag, comfy, and only 80psi in the bags (I could go much higher; they are big truck bags).

20190329_084904.jpg
 

mikemikelle

Active member
Mostly an inside yoke about a driveway somewhere.....

I can't confirm or deny having moved a now cat into or out of that part of the country. But i can say I was glad to have tied it to the trailer tightly. and I am glad the trailer was securely hooked to the truck..... Just make sure your pilot car has good review mirrors on it......

+ 1 on the craftsmanship, enjoy the cat.

After driving there, I now get it!
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
My truck was built by a conversion company in Indiana. 2002 cab/chassis, bought new and custom built 2002. I purchased in 2004 w 30k on it. It was built w/ the Kelderman, so I have never experienced a 1.5 ton without.

Not sure if all of theirs are the same, and never have looked at their promo stuff.. That being said, it works great.

Just looked at their site. What I have is a 2 Stage Air Suspension

The springs/overloads are used the same as in your application, so the stock springs are utilized. Difference being that the springs are mounted to a floating carriage, so they have more room to move (The other difference, my 2002 F450 springs are substantially bigger). The beauty is that you can adjust the rear height for different trailers at the push of a button. More air-taller, less air -shorter, or (when empty) run low pressure for the Cadillac touch. The truck still rides hard when empty (compared to a car or 1/2 ton truck), but I think it rides softer than a stock single tire 1 ton. Weighted, it rides nice! Hauling a huge travel trailer, with 1800lbs of smoker and camp kitchen on the back, no tail sag, comfy, and only 80psi in the bags (I could go much higher; they are big truck bags).

Thanks for the information (and the drawing)! I went to their website and was pleasantly surprised at the multiple offerings still available for my truck (also a 2002). When I bought it, the truck was my daily driver, but for the last ten years or so, only gets used when I need to tow something big or haul something big. At the rate it's (not) piling up miles, it will last the rest of my life. (I'm not sure if that's a sad commentary on me or the truck's usage.)
 

redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
cropped to protect the GUILTY!

Did you pick any full sized trees or garbage cans out out your load when you hit the highway?


All lies for entertainment only.....:th_lmao:
 

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mikemikelle

Active member
cropped to protect the GUILTY!

Did you pick any full sized trees or garbage cans out out your load when you hit the highway?


All lies for entertainment only.....:th_lmao:

West Coast to Great Lakes is only like 4 hrs...for each fuel stop!! Trying to think what I need to get rid of, and what you need?
 
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