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Hi new to the site and the sport but not to snow.
- Thread starter Nate b
- Start date
a bv206 will do 6 gallons per hour in the snow
Got a couple questions. Does anyone know if these steering slave cylinders cross reference with a newer model. My bleed screw is broken and now has an way out broke in that. It won't budge and I don't really know what to do now.
Ill get a few more pictures when I get home but someone also cut part of the frame here at the rear end and did some modifying. I was wondering if they possible out a different rear end in or what your opinion is on what was done.
Also is this an oc-12 rear end or am I working with something different. Thanks everyone.
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Ill get a few more pictures when I get home but someone also cut part of the frame here at the rear end and did some modifying. I was wondering if they possible out a different rear end in or what your opinion is on what was done.
Also is this an oc-12 rear end or am I working with something different. Thanks everyone.
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Those slave cylinders look similar to ones on my SV-250. On my 252, there is also a hydraulic slave (dual system), so they mount a little differently. I removed the brake-slave steering cylinders entirely, since they were leaking and redundant. Have you tried contacting Prinoth to see if those are available new?
Alternatively, you could try disassembling it, and use a little heat and an easy-out on the bleeder.
As a last suggestion, the cylinders I removed could be modified and perhaps rebuilt to use. That's why I kept them at least.
Not sure what to tell you about the rear end. It definitely looks to have been modified, but I can't ID the parts for you.
Alternatively, you could try disassembling it, and use a little heat and an easy-out on the bleeder.
As a last suggestion, the cylinders I removed could be modified and perhaps rebuilt to use. That's why I kept them at least.
Not sure what to tell you about the rear end. It definitely looks to have been modified, but I can't ID the parts for you.
that is the rear end out of 302 or the hd model. with drop boxes. stronger rear end. try to get the bleeder out by finding thread size and drilling and tapping hole, you will have to disassemble cylinder for that, the steering brake assembly had two cylinders back to back. yours is just steering slave
hi Nate, the steering slave cylinders are pretty basic, Mine were really pitted so i got some tubing and made my own. I measured the unit first, then carefully cut the threaded end off and i got some thick wall tubing --its been a year but i think it was 2.0 in OD 180 wall which took me back to a 1.625 ID ( 1 5/8) cut a new piece of barrell and then welded on the threaded end. I also baucht a piece of 1 5/8 rod and cut some plugs to make the end cap out of . then welded it up. got some steel pipe couplers and cut them down to install the bleader and hose inlet. when i finished i took a brake hone and also some skotch brite and polished the inside. You can see them in the last photo of this thread.
http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=33552&highlight=dep6113
Dave
http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=33552&highlight=dep6113
Dave
Thanks Dave. I hadn't thought of just building my own. I was worried about matching something different up thinking I would have to make sure the slave and the master matched up of displacement like you do with a clutch setup, but now that I think about it it's not as critical.
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Bobmog
Member
Nate,
If you want to use the originals try White Post Restorations. They restore all types of master cyclinders and slave cyclinders for any vehicles and they come with a lifetime warranty. I used them for some very rare Unimog wheel cyclinders that were unobtainable and they came back like brand new. They have a form you fill out and then they can give you a firm price. Turn around is only a few days to a week. I don't know how to paste in their website but if you google it it will take you right there.
Bob
If you want to use the originals try White Post Restorations. They restore all types of master cyclinders and slave cyclinders for any vehicles and they come with a lifetime warranty. I used them for some very rare Unimog wheel cyclinders that were unobtainable and they came back like brand new. They have a form you fill out and then they can give you a firm price. Turn around is only a few days to a week. I don't know how to paste in their website but if you google it it will take you right there.
Bob
Nate, I did match the ID and length when i built made the new ones. this kept the volume the same the rubber cup for the slae was marked 1 5/8 when i disassembled them. I reused the rod assy and the brass guide nut in the end it had a snap ring in it to keep the return spring from pushing the cup all the way back. I dont think you need to hold a.030 tolerance on it but i would not vary too much.
Dave
Dave
On the rear end of my machine I filled the differential with hydraulic fluid and the drop axles with gear oil. I double checked the fluid level in the drop axles and it seems as if the hydraulic fluid has filled the drops.
Are they suppose to be individual or is it ok that they are co mingling.
Are they suppose to be individual or is it ok that they are co mingling.
So been awhile since I have done any work to the old girl but I ordered some exhaust tape some more lights, some sound deadening material. I need to re-route the fuel system to keep it from vapor locking. Maybe reverse the coolant fan to keep the engine compartment a little cooler, seems to trap the heat in there. Also address my rear end temperatures, after about 30 minutes of running it heats up to where you can barely put your hand on it. So hopefully ill get some time at the beginning of September to start fixing some of these issues.
What's everyone's thoughts on running a power steering pump off the engine to circulate the rear diff fluid?
Also would like to look into adding drive by joy stick while still having manual as a back up on a machine that currently doesn't have a hydraulic power supply
What's everyone's thoughts on running a power steering pump off the engine to circulate the rear diff fluid?
Also would like to look into adding drive by joy stick while still having manual as a back up on a machine that currently doesn't have a hydraulic power supply
The ski dozer has that but it doesn't seem to be doing a sufficient job. I need to unhook the return line and see what kind of flow I am getting.
On the steering side I'm thinking of using a self contained 12v pump with the hydraulic solenoid. And not sure if I need to get the double ended rams that they came with for both manual and hydraulic or if I can figure out a way to t into the existing system and still have the manual as a back up.
On the steering side I'm thinking of using a self contained 12v pump with the hydraulic solenoid. And not sure if I need to get the double ended rams that they came with for both manual and hydraulic or if I can figure out a way to t into the existing system and still have the manual as a back up.