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New Thiokol Spryte

snow

New member
Chains, slings, ratchets...Whatever. That engine + Transmission is stuck
 

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nikos

Active member
Will the crane break? What is the total weight engine + transmission?

Scary moments....

SNOW
 

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snow

New member
I did! In the process of repairing the engine + transmission and few other things (I mean a lot of other things).
 

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zspryte

Member
Site Supporter
Success -

Looks like you have a few leaks on/in your oil pan. Good time to address them! I am lucky compared to you. I just have to get my slave cylinders rebuilt. After 50 years of service, it was their time.
 

snow

New member
Hello Pat,
I am finishing the rebuild. What temperature range should I expect on the differential temp gauge?
Thank you so much for your help again
JB
Here is one example of the temp sender.

Also a pic of what those coils look like.

-Pat
 

Snowcat Pat

Active member
Maybe this will help.

OC-12 temperature rules:
140F-160F is ideal.

180F is getting too hot, and you'd best slow down and make crisper turns.

200F and you’re doing damage, you will be at210F shortly.

210F and if you're still driving the temp will runaway,
you must stop and get it back down to 180 or less.

IF 180 degrees F. is exceeded for fairly long periods, rapid deterioriation
of steering bands, drums, gears and bearings occur.


At 210F and higher, imagine how hot it’s getting at the
brake band/drum contact area...

[From the LMC 1200c manual ~1989/1990] Diff temp gauge:
This gauge registers the temperature of the oil in the differential.
The normal absolute maximum temperature (with DN-600) fluid during continuous operation is 180 degrees F. If the differential exceeds this temperature, stop the vehicle to permit cooling. If 180 degrees F. is exceeded for fairly long periods, rapid deterioration of steering bands, drums, gears and bearings may occur.

-Pat
 

PJL

Well-known member
I had a new driver running our 1200 and I noticed how smooth his turns were. He thought he was doing great until I showed him 180 on the temp gauge. We stopped for a few minutes and it dropped fast.
 

snow

New member
Engine is going back in: new coil and distributor, rebuilt starter and transmission, and new gaskets and seals
 

snow

New member
I am desperately looking for weatherstripping tape, the rubber coated fabric found between the cab and the frame and between the gas tank and its steel cover. Out of luck. Anybody can recommend something?

Also looking for foam insulation to glue in the cab: panels, roof. Any ideas / suppliers you would recommend?

Thank you,

JB
 

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zspryte

Member
Site Supporter
I used 1 inch thick polyethylene closed cell foam (2 lb cross linked). Polyethylene does not absorb water - plus it is closed cell. I bought white foam for the ceiling, but found out it yellows after a while so I put marine grade upholstery it before I installed it. To attach the upholstery to the foam and the foam to the cab, I used 3m super 90 spray adhesive. I used a router to cut a step around the edges of the foam on the side facing the aluminum skin. This made it lie flat on the supports and gave me a place to tuck the upholstery fabric into. On the doors and bottom sides, I got black foam and did not put upholstery on it. Around the bottom portion of the cabin I put in a Mylar coated sound deadening material on first and the foam on top of it. The foam on the ceiling has eliminated the tropical rains (condensation) I used to get during winter inside the cab. If you can pick the panels up, you will save $. The stuff comes in big sheets - 4'x6' and is pricey so look around. There is a company called "Foam Factory". It has multiple names and the price varies depending upon which web link you use. You might find it cheaper closer by.

First pic won't load rotated - hum!

If you are going to be around BV this weekend, PM me.
 

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nikos

Active member
zspryte speaking

a) new electronic distribution

b) rebuilt transmission


c) I used 1 inch thick polyethylene closed cell foam (2 lb cross linked). Polyethylene does not absorb water - plus it is closed cell. I bought white foam for the ceiling, but found out it yellows after a while so I put marine grade upholstery it before I installed it. To attach the upholstery to the foam and the foam to the cab, I used 3m super 90 spray adhesive. I used a router to cut a step around the edges of the foam on the side facing the aluminum skin. This made it lie flat on the supports and gave me a place to tuck the upholstery fabric into. On the doors and bottom sides, I got black foam and did not put upholstery on it. Around the bottom portion of the cabin I put in a Mylar coated sound deadening material on first and the foam on top of it. The foam on the ceiling has eliminated the tropical rains (condensation) I used to get during winter inside the cab. If you can pick the panels up, you will save $. The stuff comes in big sheets - 4'x6' and is pricey so look around. There is a company called "Foam Factory". It has multiple names and the price varies depending upon which web link you use. You might find it cheaper closer by.

 

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snow

New member
Thank you Nikos!
I still can't figure out how to rotate the photos, and the website crashed several times as I was trying to upload the photos.
 

zspryte

Member
Site Supporter
Great crossing your tracks this weekend. You definitely bought yourself a project cat.

The Mylar backed sound deadening stuff I used under the foam is called FatMat - www.fatmat.com

I'm no sure putting the rear end temperature sensor in the overflow plug would put it in the oil. Would putting it in the line going to its radiator work? It might be easier.
 

snow

New member
Thanks for the good advice. I misplaced your email address, but I have so many things going on, with the winter coming soon...
Would love to check out your pimped spryte!
cheers
JB
 

snow

New member
Rebuild a Racine hydraulic pump

Hello All,
The rebuild was doing well (yet very painful) until the hydraulic pump blew up. So sad as I had thoroughly cleaned every part while the engine was out. Now I feel that somebody dropped a 5 gal bucket over the whole thing.
I have not been able to find parts to rebuild that pump. Any idea??? It is a Racine PFG 83A0. Is it even doable, like a carburator?
Thanks again for the help.
More photos of the rebuild coming soon...
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
if you give up on rebuild, I've had good luck finding compatible pumps for equipment at http://www.surpluscenter.com/ All I could cross reference your pump was: Positive displacement gear pump (the PFG prefix) The other numbers didn't cross for me.

good luck,
CT
 

snow

New member
Well, time to put everything back together.
New rebuilt carb to start with.
 

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snow

New member
Now rebuilding a new door. Instead of glass windows I used Lexan / polycarbonate (much stronger). I had some left over Lexan used for protecting the windows (we get a LOT of snow here in the winter). And the next glass shop is two hours away...
We placed the old broken door between two concrete piers and applied 6t from a lifting jack, and then welded some reinforcement in place.
It works!
sorry photos did not load "invalid link, token broken, etc..."
 

nikos

Active member
snow
Well, time to put everything back together.
New rebuilt carb to start with.
 

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