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grousing about grousers (take 2)

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
(system crash deleted original) I am rebuilding my tracks soon.
The original pamphlet for the ST states the grousers are Spring Steel. Current on my 3 band is A36 1-1/2” square tube with 3/16” walls. While the current ones seemed to work OK, that is quite a lot of steel to carry around. About 700 + Pounds of steel.:shock:

Looking at the picture the OEM grousers look to be fairly lightweight. I have read of grousers made from wood, angle iron, plastic, and formed spring steel. I would not be surprised at bamboo or T fence posts.

Looking back through posts, OP's have stated the need for heat treatable steel ($$$) heat treated ($$$$). Others have used ... SO the question is what have others tried that DIDN'T work? And why not.

I am considering cutting the existing ones down on the ends leaving the full tube in the center. Giving a taper so the harder the surface, the less material is in contact. But, having all those big square ends provides a bit of side slip resistance.
 

muleman

Gone But Not Forgotten
GOLD Site Supporter
If they are in good shape, the most I would do is lay some diagonal weld beads on them. That would give a little grip in icy conditions and add to the life of them. Kind of like adding Borum on horseshoes.
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
you should be able to cut them in half with a plasma cutter and still have good life if you wanted to you could weld in a chunk in teh ceenter as the origional 2 band grousers were the 2 band grousers were quite a bit stronger the lower profile wil suck up less horse poweer in softer snow too
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
If they are in good shape, the most I would do is lay some diagonal weld beads on them. That would give a little grip in icy conditions and add to the life of them. Kind of like adding Borum on horseshoes.

The bolt heads are on the surface, much like caulks. About every other grouser has a 2 " U shaped cleat welded on top made from the same tube cut off about 1/4" high.
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=35355&highlight=Two+band+OR+three+band+tracks

This might be interesting reading Tom...The part about grousers anyway.

I thought it was..

Regards, Kirk

That is where I got the idea of the "progressive" grousers. I appreciate the note however, as sometimes the search engine isn't the bestus. The whole topic has been visited several times, but I fear the answers to each thread are as varied as the types of cats. I wish there was a chart with snow conditions on one axis, slope on the next, weight of the cat on the next ... oh never mind...
That is why I wanted what people tried that DIDN'T work So many thing work, sort of work, but what doesn't?
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
I guess this is much like the discussions on tires. Am I looking for that good compromise on noise, traction, durability/ Or am I needing / wanting better performance with limited durability? Weight vs surface area is a significant factor, but lightweight grousers that don't work... If I had to rebuild these from "gut" feeling, without learning from others, I would use some 3/4'X 1-1/2' channel iron. The strenght in the Y axis would seem to be adequate and it would be 50% or less from current weight. But, Someone replaced stock for a reason and I want to make a good change, not duplicate some elses failure.

One signature line I saw:
"Some learn by reading, some by being shown, and some have to pee on the electric fence for themselves"

Let the Krusty crowd pee on the fence
 

300 H and H

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Remeber your machines past task..

It pulled groomer in some fairly deep snow, not alot of mountain climbing. The tubing grousers would work well enough. For your conditions maybe a track master (ST4B)would be a better choice or perhaps some other machine?? It's just too bad the original grousers and the original brakes asemblies were parted from this particular Snow Trac. I fear they are in a pile some where or already in a scrap yard...Maybe the originals wouldn't do what you need anyway. But when you sell it, the original grousers and the brakes would enhance the value a good bit.

That said the channel iron idea if from forged channel might be an OK idea. Maybe some heering bones to keep from a side slide while your at it. There was a narrow ST4 track made of cast iron grousers with heering bones cast in. They were only a production item for around two years or so. If you go to SnowTrac.com the red and white machine featured in the pics has these rare grousers on it. A memeber here was working on reproducing them. I don't know the status of that as of now. It is difficult to do and not have them break. They are much more agressive than the standard grousers.

Regards, Kirk
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
there is a guy in kenai alaska may have a couple of compleate tracks that he would sell you i could do some checking if you want the best thing to do would be to use the oe grousers but they are getting hard to find you may want to pm boggie as he has wharehouses full of stuff he may have what you need he does on occasion dabble in snow tracs.
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
revisiting the old thread. After more pessing things, am back at getting the snowtrac ready. I found this picture in an on line ad. Was the every other pattern stock or? I'm still trying to get a handle on how much grouser I need. When I did the math with 0.75 inch x 1.5 inch channel and making them slightly rounded in the center I shave almost 500 pounds from the weight I have now. Having flat stock would cut it even more, but then what about traction?

Has anyone a sketch of the OEM grousers for the 3 band they could share?

Thanks,
Tom
 

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Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
boy Allen thought krusty girls are hot, that one makes me proud I have a snow trac that said I the origionals were a stamped piece of hardened metal if you want I have a few off a track for my 2 bander it if you want I can male you one to play with I think you could cut yours down to the same profile than weld a solid slug into the middle like the original 2 banders were and get a pretty durable track with out the expense of buying all new grousers.
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
revisiting the old thread. After more pessing things, am back at getting the snowtrac ready. I found this picture in an on line ad. Was the every other pattern stock or? I'm still trying to get a handle on how much grouser I need. When I did the math with 0.75 inch x 1.5 inch channel and making them slightly rounded in the center I shave almost 500 pounds from the weight I have now. Having flat stock would cut it even more, but then what about traction?

Has anyone a sketch of the OEM grousers for the 3 band they could share?

Thanks,
Tom
you never see a hottie like that one on a krusty
 

300 H and H

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Cidertom,

The Snow Trac in the picture with the lovely lass apears to have Half standard welded grousers and the other half cast grousers with herring bones. Probably the best of both.... Not cheap to find or buy unfortunately.

Regards, Kirk
 

redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Cider, What did you decide to do with this project.

I have a C model spryte basket case I am considering the 1"x1" - .120 tubing and yeah the weight is going to be significant.

the machine was a terra track which is basically a 1x1 with the side cut off. I suppose it was hardened.

I like dons tapered cut idea but I am wondering if a plasma or a band saw is the way to go.

Where did you leave off with the design of a grouser.
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
I decided to do a cut down off each end. I needed the gravel capability the tube had, but having it full dimension was too hard on turning. I tried the plasma, didn't like the cuts much (probably the operator). Wound up using a saw with a metal abrasive blade. Used magswitch blocks to form a jig. Not real fast, but looks good. hint: if your tube has weld beads inside, cut it so you don't have the bead left. I had to mill some of the beads so the bolts would seat. Still putting it back together. Have to weld some wings on to keep it from sliding too much.
 

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MNoutdoors RIP

Gone But Not Forgotten
GOLD Site Supporter
That looks like a lot of grinding wheels worth you most likely could find someone that would have either water jetted them of laser cut for less then you think.JMO
 
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