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THIOKOL 601 RESTORE

weatherby

Member
I think MTNCRAWLER & BIGAL ideas are good. I'm going to use some aluminum patch my self in two spots on my cat but for the small holes I am going to TIG weld them shut then grind them flat then use body filler & primer to go over the grinding marks. But I think using body filler or fiber glass to cover small holes will also work. What I would do is go to a body shop or somebody that dose body work & tell them what you want to do and they will tell you the best way to do it and the best product to use to fit your budget
 

weatherby

Member
Here we are removing the track adjusters. this turned out to be quite the job. It took a lot of heat from (two) a.c. torch's and some very heavy pounding and about 2 hr. (per side)
 

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BigAl

Gone But Not Forgotten
SUPER Site Supporter
Very nice pictures ! I like the way you describe progress in detail .
This is going to be a "1st class job" it looks like to me :thumb: . When do you think you may be finished ?
When you start "beating your head" against the wall ,PM me and I will give you my "drink recipe " .....:burp: :yum:
 

weatherby

Member
I removed the differential assy. to inspect & clean. I used kerosene to wash the ring gear assy. and inside of drive housing (very contaminated) with old gear lube & water. I will replace all seals and have the brake bands relined. Everything else is in good shape. I will next sand blast the housing.
 

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weatherby

Member
After everything has been cleaned and the brake linings will have to be relined
 

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mtntopper

Back On Track
SUPER Site Supporter
weatherby,
Great rebuild info and photos. Many people will be watching your progress. You are doing a great job in detailing the info out for others to see and learn. :thumb:
Just stay away from BigAls drink recipe or you may end up like him.:blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah:
Bill
 

weatherby

Member
mtntopper said:
weatherby,
Great rebuild info and photos. Many people will be watching your progress. You are doing a great job in detailing the info out for others to see and learn. :thumb:
Just stay away from BigAls drink recipe or you may end up like him.:blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah: :blahblah:
Bill
Well by the time I get into this as deep as BigAl is, I'll probably have my own drink recipe'sss by then, and me and him will be swap'en recipes & snocat stories all night.:yum: :yum: Also thanks for the complements
 

Snowcat Operations

Active member
SUPER Site Supporter
Excellent work! I have a 61 Thiokol Swamp Spyte. I will dig into her next year after I finish my Snow Master rebuild. I believe my Thikol has a bent shift fork. I am not that mechanically inclined to open up the Clark C4 transmission. The Swamp spryte is anphibious. Will be interesting to get her up and running again!
 

weatherby

Member
I had to make up new brake band rods. The original rod you see on the right became very pitted over time and the new seals would have for sure leaked on that rod so I made new ones out of stainless steel (one on the left) Also rebuilt the steering ram cylinders good thing they could be rebuilt they are $400.00 each. $65.00 each to rebuild. the pic. of the rear drive shows how it goes together
 

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Mainer

Boggie likes our museum
SUPER Site Supporter
...please keep the pics coming! Some of us are only living and learning through your experience! :weneedpic :thumb:
 

Snowcat Operations

Active member
SUPER Site Supporter
I believe I have two of these track jacks. Pm me with your address and I will send them to you. Just send them back when you are done. Great work!






weatherby said:
Good afternoon AL. I can only hope that I can put the excellent workmanship in my THIOKOL that you put into your KRISTY very very nice:a1: Well AL your rite when you say that thing looks REAL HEAVY because it is. Shipped weight 5450lb. G.V.W.7480lb. When moving it around you have to be careful not to let it bump into anything it takes some effort to stop it before it dose some damage . The frame is all steel the cab is all sheet aluminum. I have been unable to find the ground pressure that thing creates. Also I,am trying to find these track jacks used to install the tracks. You could probably use a couple of come alongs but not sure yet.
 

BigAl

Gone But Not Forgotten
SUPER Site Supporter
Very nice work . You are sure during it right . I'll share my toolbox with you ,anytime .
 

weatherby

Member
Hear is the starter before & after I dismantled, bead blast, replaced brushes, & had the armature checked out & turned. Also replaced the bushings.
 

weatherby

Member
weatherby said:
Here is the starter before & after I dismantled, bead blast, replaced brushes, & had the armature checked out & turned. Also replaced the bushings.
pics.
 

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weatherby

Member
I,m going to start putting back together the rear drive but after bead blasting I could not get all the sand out of the pinion bearing like I thought I could with air. I did not want to remove it from the beginning because the depth of the pinion is set from the factory and did not want to have to try and reset it. I knew I would get sand in it from blasting no mater how well you try to seal it up from the sand blaster but I just can,t get it clean SO it has to come out for a bath in solvent and then the pinion depth reset when :smileywac
 

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mbsieg

awful member
GOLD Site Supporter
In that case I always put a thick layer of grease over the bearing and do not hit it directly with the compressed air then just wipe out all the grease.... Just a thought....
 

weatherby

Member
I been working on the AC heating system which involves a battery tray heater, engine oil heater, coolant heater, and a circulating pump. Everything works fine except for the coolant heater. The coolant heater works but it has a few holes in the body that showed up after bead blasting. Now I could braise them shut but because I can,t take the thing apart and look inside to see how bad the rest of the body is I,m not going to take the chance on other holes showing up later plus I can get a new one which is a updated model of this one for $70.00 which I ordered today.
 

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weatherby

Member
Snowcat Operations said:
Where did you find the replacement part?
I found it at HotStart Manufacturing. Just Google hotstart and you,ll find it. That coolant heater was used on a lot of different machinery.
 

weatherby

Member
I,ve got the rear drive painted along with lots of other little stuff now that we had some warmer temps. out side. So I was now able to put it back together and get it out of the way so I can start working on other parts. IF only I was back in my twenty's & thirty's again I could work on more than one thing at a time. But NOW when I can walk around the shop looking for a tool for five minutes just to find I been carrying it around in my left hand I don,t think I better get to far ahead of my self:confused: :Unsure:
 

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MNoutdoors RIP

Gone But Not Forgotten
GOLD Site Supporter
NOW when I can walk around the shop looking for a tool for five minutes just to find I been carrying it around in my left hand I don,t think I better get to far ahead of my self:confused: :Unsure:[/QUOTE]

So that's not just me that does that:rolleyes: I knew it was not just a left hand right brain thing...........

Great pictures, What are you shooting Pictures with?Very clear

You are doing everything right...:applause: out of all the machines that we
have rebuilt (over 80 ) I only wish we would have kept more start to finish
photo's Nice work..................:wave:


Brad
 

weatherby

Member
mtncrawler said:
Single stage urethane or ?
Yes it is a single stage polyurethane made by Imron. Here in Mich. it runs about 60.00 a quart, 206.00 a gal. and this paint requires an activator which is 100.00 per quart and 56.00 a pint:4_11_9: What ever you do DON,T TELL MY WIFE
 

weatherby

Member
Here are the tires that I,am going with. They are a 6/70x15 6 ply ribbed tire made by Akuret they can also be found under the name Titan at least thats in Michigan. Not an easy size to find.
 

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