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442 Refurbishment Project

DAVENET

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Sweet heat potpourri:
 

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DAVENET

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This evenings "what's wrong here" challenge problem. Anyone see what's going on?
 

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Track Addict

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
The mouse should stay at zero gravity between the fans if turn them both on.

If you turn the heat on leave the defroster off it should cool down the cab nicely with the windshield air! Those close quarters generate plenty of body heat between the two occupants.
 
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PJL

Well-known member
Is there a snowcat restoration that did not include removing mice from heaters?
 

olympicorange

Active member
This evenings "what's wrong here" challenge problem. Anyone see what's going on?

……… the ''yellow '' sticker also doesn't instruct you to flip the fan blade over 180 degrees , for ccw rotation..lol,... like a reversible radiator fan..... not that , that works on non-reversible fans... and,....
 

olympicorange

Active member
Is there a snowcat restoration that did not include removing mice from heaters?


…… not that ive ever run into,... and also air filter bonnet's , have had a run of these this year..... remember sno-drifters earlier advice … ppe & vacuums ….:thumbup:
 

DAVENET

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Well, heat box complete, less a coil (currently). Replacement on the way. Mine didn't pressure test well (leak between tank & core) but may be salvageable at some point.
 

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DAVENET

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Batch two:
 

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DAVENET

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Heat three:
 

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DAVENET

Bronze Member
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Some Carter BB1 carb work (Sorry for side view- pics won't stick & tired of trying!) :
 

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DAVENET

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GOLD Site Supporter
Carb #2 -- An ultrasonic cleaner would kick ass, but would be a waste for the amount I would use it. Good enough for a crawler!
 

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Track Addict

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Hobbs Carb shop Pelham NH best hidden gem around for carbs. Can’t go wrong 100$ or so well worth the rebuild.

Will look and function like new.
 

DAVENET

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
A buddy of mine (who is doing the machining work on my tables) called a month ago to have them rebuild a 4bbl on a 440 in a ski boat. They are shutting down and no longer taking carbs in. The old man has solidly retired, his son is to the same point and the grandson had no interest in continuing the business.
 

DAVENET

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Notes for future owners:

Clutch M/C is from a CHEVROLET 1960 -'62 C10. Centric #130.80003


Slave cylinder switches plumbing back to Dodge WM300. Number on cylinder was 29381-C (which if you try to search that item is being sold for $75-$110). Correct dished piston replacement is a Dorman CS33723. $22.79 from RockAuto.
 

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DAVENET

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
New tie rod is in the works...

ES2010L and R are the end part number. Thinking this kit for the upgrade. Sheet says 52 1/2”. Wonder if that is tube length or end length according to Tucker?

https://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/TRESTAND-KIT.html

Well, going off the info from Tucker Someday and TA's repair, and even though I knew better (since we are dealing with Tuckers), I dove right into the shallow end to try to get rid of my angle iron reinforced draglink. Sister-ship on the same mountain, a year apart, you would think would have similar set-ups. Looking at the ends above I was thinking that sure seems 'small', but the tube kit looked rugged enough and obviously fit on TS's machine. Mine showed up Wednesday and all I can say is I can't believe the ES2010's hold up to the forces of turning a Tucker. Mine is completely different and WAY beefier from a heavy duty truck application.

Original casting has 24-5000 on it (manufacturer unknown). Chasing sizes thru the parts book brings it to current day numbers: Meritor R230060(LH) and R230061(RH). Still searching the correct cross tube.
 

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sledhead Ed

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
I was given the info from a parts store driver. He's up by Epping I think he said and also 3 weeks out. Not going to be good without a good rebuilder around.
 

DAVENET

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Yeup. Unfortunately it's turned into a plug & play world with no need (desire) to fix a problem. Just toss a new part at it.
 

olympicorange

Active member
A buddy of mine (who is doing the machining work on my tables) called a month ago to have them rebuild a 4bbl on a 440 in a ski boat. They are shutting down and no longer taking carbs in. The old man has solidly retired, his son is to the same point and the grandson had no interest in continuing the business.


bummer,.. another old time business fades out,... what a shame. having the same issues with my electrical /alt/starter, and machine shop guys. my engine machine shop, jerry, is 74,... and he says hes going to keep going till he can't any longer. hope he lives to 125,... but im sure he doesn't. the ''trades'' are , & have been in jeopardy for quite some time,... and when we're all done with the sno cat hobbies,...so will they...unfortunately,... be strong....
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
It is sad when the craftsmen fade away.

We used to have 3 automotive machine shops locally, now all of them are gone.

Luckily there are a couple startups with young folks running them.

The bad part is the old farts had many many decades of experience and new all the tricks.

I am happy to have my own mill and lathe right here to make or repair stuff.

Having been in the trades for many years helps..... I just wish I could have learned more from my father before he passed.

So many crafts are being lost....as the equipment has evolved into a more high tech arena the shops that were really handy with making carburetors work well have faded away.

Now ya need a doctorate in computer science and a mega $$$$$$$$$$$ scanner tool just to figure out why things don't work....

Even heavy equipment ...including snow cats are stuffed full of computers.

All great...until they quit
 

Pontoon Princess

Cattitute
GOLD Site Supporter
Well, going off the info from Tucker Someday and TA's repair, and even though I knew better (since we are dealing with Tuckers), I dove right into the shallow end to try to get rid of my angle iron reinforced draglink. Sister-ship on the same mountain, a year apart, you would think would have similar set-ups. Looking at the ends above I was thinking that sure seems 'small', but the tube kit looked rugged enough and obviously fit on TS's machine. Mine showed up Wednesday and all I can say is I can't believe the ES2010's hold up to the forces of turning a Tucker. Mine is completely different and WAY beefier from a heavy duty truck application.

Original casting has 24-5000 on it (manufacturer unknown). Chasing sizes thru the parts book brings it to current day numbers: Meritor R230060(LH) and R230061(RH). Still searching the correct cross tube.

I believe you are looking at a standard 400 series with 3/4 inch roller/tie rod end and the bigger one is from a 400A series with 1 inch roller
 

Track Addict

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Except on the 68 442A. That one has the smaller tie rods and ends.

Let me know your tube solution. Have two to build this fall!
 

Track Addict

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
They would have had to magically reduce the taper on the tables and center pivots tie rods. Plus there is no room to have the bigger rod without hitting the transfer case on that machine.
 

Pontoon Princess

Cattitute
GOLD Site Supporter
They would have had to magically reduce the taper on the tables and center pivots tie rods. Plus there is no room to have the bigger rod without hitting the transfer case on that machine.


maybe so, I have seen so many changes/repairs done to machine once they left the factory

but, we all forgot to read what is written the shop floor in chalk at the factory

BUILD NO TWO TUCKERS THE SAME
 

DAVENET

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Original casting has 24-5000 on it (manufacturer unknown). Chasing sizes thru the parts book brings it to current day numbers: Meritor R230060(LH) and R230061(RH). Still searching the correct cross tube.

End Number notes: Meritor R230068(LH) and Meritor R230069(RH) ends are the same as the numbers above, but have 1/2" more thread length, are much more common and much less expensive. For dimension reference: https://mpparts.com/part/meritor-r2...Ntc9XRXB-ytv1_bWciH_vVr4qDZnnpOUaAmugEALw_wcB

I needed to order them in to verify it would work since a lot of the time stock photos are used. All sizes are correct, but the actual ends have a very slight offset which leaves the rod proud (see arrow). I don't believe it will be enough to create an issue given the drop of the rod, but will need to test at full table deflection to verify.
 

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