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Re shop manual for Bombi SW48/Bombi/etc

Len

New member
I do believe that this unit is a SW 48 but for going through pics on the web ect
I see there are different styles so I unsure being new to this type of transport.
This unit has not run for 10 years so I'm told but ran when it was parked in the bush.
Would like to see if I can make it run again and a shop manual would help this process . Any body know where I can find this info ?
Len
 

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Melensdad

Jerk in a Hawaiian Shirt & SNOWCAT Moderator
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
Re: Re shop manual

Len, while somewhat different than the Bombi, that unit is closely related. Take a look at a Bombi manual and it should give you quite a bit of information to help you out. I believe we have a BR180 manual (newer version of the Bombi) available for free download.

BTW, welcome to the Snowcat area of the ForumsForums. What are you planning to do with that unit?
 

Len

New member
Re: Re shop manual

Hello Mellonsdad hope I got that right.
Have looked at that bombi manuals you have posted on the sticky and a bunch of pics of theses units. But have yet to see how to gain a peek a view the drive line of theses units . Dont want to start snapping rusty bolts for no reason.
As far as plans for this unit evaluation is the first step.
From the pics I seen this must be the crysler eng that has had some mods done to the electrical. Was this unit a 6 volt system originally ?
Len
 

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Lia

Banned
Re: Re shop manual

She's beautiful! looks like she needs a little TLC, but sounds like she'll get it. Good luck, I hope you do get her running again. Let us know...

Welcome to ff. :smile:
 

Melensdad

Jerk in a Hawaiian Shirt & SNOWCAT Moderator
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
Re: Re shop manual

Len, honestly I don't know much about the Bombardier units. Many older motors were 6 volt so it would not surprise me at all if that originally was a 6 volt system, that said, I really have no clue. I do know that Chrysler motors were used in a lot of Bombardier brand units going back to the 251 Chrysler industrial engines used in the original B12 and C18 "snowmobiles".

You may want to send a PM to Pixie, she has several Bombardier units and seems to know a reasonable amount about history, might be able to help you out. Her units are the J5 units, but from what I can tell they are a workhorse unit that is also somewhat related to the Bombi.
 

luv2weld

New member
SUPER Site Supporter
That picture shows the alternator. Should have the voltage stamped into it. Use a mirror and a light if you can't get the alternator out to look at it.

Ralph
 

pixie

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
Hi, Len.

It's a SW or maybe J5 with the back extended. Looks like a big log on that arch would cause a 'wheely' .

Chrysler 251. Haven't seen a 6 volt, yet.
 

Len

New member
Hello all that are watching
Thanks Pixie for the heads up on what this unit might be ?
Got a couple of Hrs on it to day. Tried to jump start at the starter no go . pulled the starter gave it the jump and was fine.
tryed to rock the crank at the fan no go . Cleaned the valleys at the plugs and pulled the plugs . Tried to rock the crank at the fan. Some movement dropped so atf in the holes gave it some time and tuned the crank at the fan a couple of times. installed the starter and jumped it again . Dam if the thing wasn't in reverse. Bucked a foot. Figured out the shifter,s neutral settings 2 levers between the legs. And jumped started it again. Dam thing turned over with some compression on most cyl. will give some time for the atf to do its work on the rigs . Then do a comp test.
Pixie there is a big wench under the boom shaft driven . I am hopping that that there is an easy way to look at the trans and drive train of this unit ??
Hopping the pics help to id this .
Len
 

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pixie

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
Glad to hear it turns over.
If it's 4 feet wide it's a SW48. If it's 5 feet wide, a J5, or possibly a SW60. All the same running gear.

If you want to look in the differential, you need to unbolt the cab and tip up the front. Then remove the gas tank that's usually under there. Then unbolt the cover to the diff.. Need to remove the cab for really good access.

Transmission is under the seat.

Manuals and parts are available from http://www.mn-outdoors.com/ . Engine parts are mostly available from Napa. Tell them to look up a 1962? Dodge truck.... whatever has the 251.

When you get it running, keep the side covers on the engine so the air flow/engine cooling will work right.

PTO winches are great.
What are your plans for it ? Where are you located ?
 

northeastheavy

New member
Good luck and welcome!!
Your j5/SW looks like a great restore. If the tracks are useable and the drivetrain is good, you have a neat machine!!! Just lots of work before winter!!!
 

Morin64

New member
i have a sw48 1973 with a winch and hydraulic arch. for pulling logs. you'll need to put glass in the doors becouse it will suck air throgh the cab. and you'll freeze to death. and if thats not bad enuff it will run 10 degrees hotter. with mine i have to chocke it every time i start it even when it warm. if it dose'nt already have a electric fule pump you mint want to think about it. the original one suck and are hard to get to. the tacks with all thougs cleast will trun hard. make sure you have good differential oil it. you should be able to pull three 16"x30' logs on flat ground. going up hill at a 45 degrees you can only pull two. three logs going up hill will make you do a weelie!! good luck
 

Len

New member
Well folks havn't had much time to deal with unit .
Last time. I still was lacking any compression on 1 and 3 may have to look at the lifters and cam lobs .Dumped lots of atf in those holes and cranked with a finger over the hole on in hopes. That I don't have to pull the intake ect to gain accesses to see if all is moving the way it should.
Thanks Morin 64 for insight on what it could do !!!
Dam haven't even tried to put fire in the holes yet
To be expected though 8 to 10 years of sitting the bush , will bring these woes .
Pixie, no plans yet other than make it run , South Western B.C.
Len
 

Morin64

New member
some were i read a guy put in a 300 straigth 6 ford that fit in with out to much trouble. for what its worth :my2cents:
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
Well folks havn't had much time to deal with unit .
Last time. I still was lacking any compression on 1 and 3 may have to look at the lifters and cam lobs .Dumped lots of atf in those holes and cranked with a finger over the hole on in hopes. That I don't have to pull the intake ect to gain accesses to see if all is moving the way it should.
Thanks Morin 64 for insight on what it could do !!!
Dam haven't even tried to put fire in the holes yet
To be expected though 8 to 10 years of sitting the bush , will bring these woes .
Pixie, no plans yet other than make it run , South Western B.C.
Len
the dodge engine you have is a flat head i'm betting you have some valves stuck what i would do is remove the head drop a bit of dot-3 brake fluid around the valve guides than tap the valves lightly to get them to move and drop downyou will have to rotate the motor to get the low side of the lobe up not hard to just roll the engine over to where the distributor is pointing to the cylinder you are working on
 

Len

New member
Thanks Don. and to all watching
That was what i was thinking to !!
Got some more time today to play.
Made the decision to remove the intake and ex manifolds as they were in the way of viewing the tappet cover and lifters ect.
Not sure how to place in line pics But they are below.
The decision was based on 2 things a cracked ex and would be able to see how clean the internals may be and wow!!!
Yup 2 stuck valves sorry no pic dead batteries. No 1 ex and No3 in gave a little tap with a tack hammer and pop !!! they let go. lubed them up top and bottom with axle grease and turn the motor over and they moved just fine.

Dam could have just put fire to it they probably would have worked free.
Hind sight beats you about the head, lol
So the pics are after the removal and tapping the vales.

Has any body seen red springs this clean in a old motor or are they newer replacements ???
Len
 

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Len

New member
Hello all
Spent the last bit of time . Soaking the intake to exhaust bolts with penetrating fluid but a no go on the nuts. So I cut the nuts off . and have one of the 4 to move. Started to clean the crack in the manifold and wow This is a little worse than I thought . Anybody got a good one ???
Perhaps the moderators may want to move this thread to the restore xection as this really is not about obtaining a manual any more.
Len
 

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pixie

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
The exhaust manifolds are hard to find.

Vintage Power Wagons.com may be some help if you call them.

If it was me, I'd talk to a good welder.
 

Lia

Banned
one of my hats i wear is a welder and i will be brazing a crack in my jeep's manifold soon

Right then! to the rescue dds! :smile: This is fascinating stuff. The poor old Lady is in a bad way, isn't she...
 

weatherby

Member
Len...I think I can get a good exhaust manifold for you, it is still on the engine and still in the truck, I took a close look at it a wile back and it looked to be in very good condition. However it may take a month before I can get back to get it off and I live in Michigan.
 

the old trucker

New member
Len...I think I can get a good exhaust manifold for you, it is still on the engine and still in the truck, I took a close look at it a wile back and it looked to be in very good condition. However it may take a month before I can get back to get it off and I live in Michigan.

Weatherby would you know if it's in an old 46 to 54 Dodge pickup with the differential still in it ?? I need the full carrier. I'm looking for a 4.10 ratio with 10 spline axles.
 

Len

New member
Thanks to all for your input it does help.Thanks weatherby but I can imagine the cost of shipping from your local to the south west coast of Canada . But will keep it in mind if this one turn out not to be fixable.
Well after soaking the bolts everyday for a week and tapping with a hammer. I have managed to remove the 4 bolts that hold the intake to the exhaust.
I have not decided weather to have it welded or brazed yet . but after a good cleaning the decision will be made .
Len
 

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Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
ask your welder what he should do cast iron is a material i don't work with much i do know the basics pre heating and slow cooling are important the problems i have delt with on exhaust maniflds is even with stop drilling holes the crack still grows ahead of the weld which is why i'm going to try brazing the jeep exhaust this time you need less heat
 

weatherby

Member
Weatherby would you know if it's in an old 46 to 54 Dodge pickup with the differential still in it ?? I need the full carrier. I'm looking for a 4.10 ratio with 10 spline axles.

The old Trucker....I think it is a 48 and it is a panel truck. The story on it is as follows,.... The truck is in a speed shop that is waiting it's turn to be turned into a street rod, it has a flat head six that they know they are not going to use, so they have been letting me take what ever I need off of it for my flat head six, however, it does have the rear end in it, but they want to keep it in for now so they can roll the truck around the shop. They already know there not going to use the rear end and said I can have it when they get ready to take it out, but that could be who knows how long before that happens.
 

Morin64

New member
Len i just saved a SW 48 form the scrape heep if you need parts pm me. the carbs junk but the intake looks good. some of the wheels are ok and many other parts
 

Len

New member
Hello people.
Finally got the ex manifold stripped down . I am going to take to the machine shop for a hot tank treatment to see how bad and what needs to be welded .
My welder wants a clean no oil ect bolted to a piece of steal manifold. He also wants it baked to ensure that there are no oil vapors to intruded on the weld.
Also took the top of the carb off and can see some work needs to be done here , the float pin is stuck so I soaked it with pen fluid if that dont work I just fill the bowl with fuel and see if the float looks heavy after a couple of days, If it does its brass, an a little solder will fix it .
Len
 

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weatherby

Member
A good method to check for a leaky brass float, is to heat some water in a pot on your stove and get it hot but not boiling, then use some sort of a tool to submerge the brass float in the hot water for a minute or so and look for any air bubbles, if no air bubbles then the float is good. If you see bubbles then you no where to solder.
 
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