• Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/

kickdown cable on transmission LMC

hansoni

Member
I'm trying to get a handle on the way our 1500 shifts, it's got a torqueflight trans. doing some research I'm finding out the kickdown linkage and adjustment is crucial to getting it to shift right. As it is now it shifts very quickly into 3rd and does not shift down to second applying pressure at the gas pedal even when climbing a hill.
I have made small adjustments the length of the rod that is hooked up to the carb via what looks like a custom made linkage with several holes with no change...
Here's an article out of a hot rod forum that says this about the lever coming out of the trans

Somewhere in this range of the lever’s arc, you can feel a slight resistance from the lever’s internal spring. This is where the line pressure begins to rise, ultimately causing a downshift. Properly dialing in the lever’s range of motion is critical to shift performance and transmission longevity. Says Jason: “For the first half of its travel range, there is very little resistance and the lever does nothing. At the halfway point, you can feel where it starts to hit the valve inside the trans, and that’s the position the lever must be in at idle.”

So it also goes on to say that at WOT this linkage should push the lever all the way. Figuring this is why all the holes in the carb linkage adjusting the amount of throw.

I would be curious to see any pics from other machines both of the lever position at idle and of the carb linkage setting to compare. Our machine has the AMC 258 with the torqueflight, weber carb

Does anyone have any expertise with these? Any Mopar hot rodders?
Thanks in advance.
 

redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
speaking as a torque flite 727 connoisseur in IH scouts.... All I can offer is good luck.

I found the setting (mechanical position of the actuator) at the carb will effect the force on the rod. Ahead of center it is late, after center it is later but way to quick.
somewhere in the peak of the arc at the carb linkage is the key to setting it.
IH scout linkages had a slot that the throttle linkage worked in. the weight of the spring also factored in.
It has been years since I did an automatic to a proper shift point, I went to stick shifts and now play with snow cats instead of scouts.

at one point while truck pulling, I had a pedal bike brake handle and cable to the trans to initiate the shift when the #$%^ I wanted it.!

I feel your pain and wish I had the knowledge to type out the answer. but the torque flite trans kick down is on the list of poorly engineered Detroit wonders of america
PEDWA for short.
 

Snowcat Pat

Active member
May be useful.
-Pat
 

Attachments

  • IMGP2892.jpg
    IMGP2892.jpg
    99.4 KB · Views: 177
  • IMGP2893.jpg
    IMGP2893.jpg
    107.1 KB · Views: 177
  • IMGP2894.jpg
    IMGP2894.jpg
    105.7 KB · Views: 175
  • IMGP2895.jpg
    IMGP2895.jpg
    135.9 KB · Views: 176
Last edited:

Snowcat Pat

Active member
Pics,
 

Attachments

  • IMGP3044.jpg
    IMGP3044.jpg
    136.4 KB · Views: 181
  • IMGP3045.jpg
    IMGP3045.jpg
    83.3 KB · Views: 178
  • IMGP3046.jpg
    IMGP3046.jpg
    71.5 KB · Views: 170

Snowcat Pat

Active member
A few more,
-Pat
 

Attachments

  • IMGP3047.jpg
    IMGP3047.jpg
    81.7 KB · Views: 174
  • IMGP3051.jpg
    IMGP3051.jpg
    112.3 KB · Views: 178
  • IMGP3058.jpg
    IMGP3058.jpg
    73.3 KB · Views: 169

hansoni

Member
Thank you Pat as always for your efforts.
After several hours of research I headed to camp to get to the bottom of this.
These first few pics are how the linkage was set up. At the carb the rod was adjusted all the way at the bottom for the max throw, the collar stop not touching the trans rod, and the trans lever all the way forward.
My research led me to believe that indeed the warm idle position for the trans lever position should be set just as some resistance is felt as it hits the valve inside. In the original setting the trans lever was all the way forward say at 10 o'clock or so noon being the front of the machine. I found resistance at about 9 o'clock or so. Then after moving the connection at the the carb linkage from the furthest away to the closest to the carb for less throw, testing to be sure at WOT the trans lever was pushed all the way rearward with no binding. Making sure the collar was adjusted in the right position as according to all the info I could find the trans lever should move as soon as throttle is applied.
This final setting is in the three last pics.
After a short trip on a flat surface the trans shifted well, running through the gears as it should, shifting smoothly and at approx the right RPM.
Then the real test was up a fairly steep incline, approaching in top gear, starting to go up, slight pressure on pedal and shifted down to second smoothly, holding second through the climb.
So as far as I can tell so far a great success. Time will tell if we should need to make any small adjustments but I feel it's pretty close.
I hope this helps any other 1500 owners out there.
Cheers
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1627.jpg
    IMG_1627.jpg
    109.1 KB · Views: 143
  • IMG_1628.jpg
    IMG_1628.jpg
    88.2 KB · Views: 133
  • IMG_1629.jpg
    IMG_1629.jpg
    68.5 KB · Views: 172
  • IMG_1633.jpg
    IMG_1633.jpg
    118 KB · Views: 132
  • IMG_1634.jpg
    IMG_1634.jpg
    78.1 KB · Views: 131
  • IMG_1635.jpg
    IMG_1635.jpg
    220.1 KB · Views: 131
Top