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VW air cooled Flat 4 won't start, need help!

Melensdad

Jerk in a Hawaiian Shirt & SNOWCAT Moderator
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
I finally got the original gas tank installed in the Snow Trac over the weekend. Juiced up the battery, reinstalled it. Turned the key, hit the starter button, slow turning and not starting.

This worked before I hooked up the gas tank when I was using a temporary set up. So I am sure it is not the fuel system.

It is just turning over very slow, too slow. Its done this before, but always fired up.

Its been 20+ years since I tinkered with an old VW motor. Anyone have any thoughts on this? Could it just be too cold to fire up? Am I looking at pulling the engine and playing with the starter? Is there somewhere else to look?
 

Dargo

Like a bad penny...
GOLD Site Supporter
As you are well aware, those engines are relatively simple. If it ran before, you can generally rule out any major internal engine failure. That would be rather rare in those engines anyway. The carbs were notorious for being finicky. The butterfly in the choke sticks, the bowls varnish over, the little spring in the float sticks etc. I bet I still have 2 or 3 rebuild kits laying around for the carbs. They cost a whopping 8 or 10 bucks. Also, it is very easy to bump the distributor and either retard (most likely since you didn't describe a sudden stopping and then starting again of the engine cranking) or advance the timing. I believe you turn the distributor counter clockwise to advance and clockwise to retard. You may want to check that, I'm going from old memory. There is only a single bolt at the base of the distributor that keeps the the timing set; i.e. keeps the distributor from turning.

Also, in this sort of weather, they were also bad for getting just a little moisture inside the distributor cap. That is easily enough fixed. If it is dry inside, you may want to pull a plug and crank it over to make sure you have spark. As you know, they don't have to turn over very fast to start, so I'd not think it would be the starter motor.
 

bczoom

Super Moderator
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
I'm with Big Dog and would try that first.
Once you get it running (hopefully), then check the timing.
If you don't have a timing light, I'll mail you mine (as I haven't had a vehicle that requires me to do/check the timing in over 10 years...).
 

Melensdad

Jerk in a Hawaiian Shirt & SNOWCAT Moderator
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
Dargo, thanks, I think I'll try to poke around a bit and play with things. Probably not tonight. But you gave me some stuff to look at again. I was cold and sore and crabby when I gave up last night and just didn't want to futz around with it and wasn't sure where to start.


Big Dog said:
How about a shot of eeeeeeeether

I was thinking the very same thing as a possible option.


bczoom said:
Once you get it running (hopefully), then check the timing.
If you don't have a timing light, I'll mail you mine

Nice thing about this place, many of us really will do things like that for others that we have become friends with. I won't take you up on it, as there is no need, but the offer is greatly appreciated.:tiphat:



Anyone else want to help me out with this? It is cold in the garage, I ran out of propane for the heater so I can't warm it up until the propane guy shows up to refill the tanks on Thursday. I'm sure the cold weather is not helping the situation any either. Certainly doesn't help my mood when I bust a knuckle and my hand is cold!:mad:
 

TOMLESCOEQUIP

Just Plinkin Away the $$
Big Dog said:
How about a shot of eeeeeeeether
Bob......if you use the starting fluid, don't over do it. The engine may take off and overspeed before the oil pressure builds........NOT A GOOD THING !!! Pull off a plug wire & install it on an extra spark plug & lay or clamp it to the engine block & have the lovely Mrs. B crank the engine over while you check for spark. It may be that the ign points are corroded a little from sitting too long in a damp unused condition. You could always try pouring a little gas down the carb to prime it if you determine it is getting spark. Fuel pump diaphrams also have been known to dry out & crack if allowed to sit too long. Make sure you have a good hot battery also..............It needs to spin fairly fast to make compression to start...............Good luck...................
 

Chief

New member
Bob, I would lay off the ether. A much safer and less destructive option that works very well is WD-40. First thing I would verify are the basics..........are you getting a good spark, fuel, and proper air. If the engine has been setting for a long time, could be the carbs are gummed up. Did you treat the gas with Stabil or other fuel treatment and run it through the carbs good before it sat? I don't like using ether unless it is extremely cold and only then as there is not much of any alternatives. Ether is dangerous and can do some damage to the engine if not used correctly.
 

roughwoods

Junior Member
SUPER Site Supporter
:pat: Bob, you might look at the starter busing,if it is worn to bad then the starter will drag and take to much juice to turn it over,the battery cables will get hot and stuff like that.
also you might check to be sure you have the right starter in it.some of the snow tracs where changed over from 6 volt to 12 volts,they didnt change the fly wheel,they put a 6 volt gear on a 12 volt starter,the 6 volt gear is larger than the 12 volt gear.hope this info helps, Larry
 

XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq

Master of Distraction
Staff member
SUPER Site Supporter
Bob,

Drink some beer. Swear at it. Kick it once or twice.

Wait till the propane guy shows up!

PB
 

Junkman

Extra Super Moderator
I wouldn't use either under any conditions unless I didn't care about the engine. Pull the plugs and see if it turns over any better. If it spins well, then the problem is mechanical. If it doesn't, then the problem is electrical and starter related. My guess is that if it has been sitting for a long time, that there might have been moisture in the cylinders that has caused some surface rust to form. This is causing a drag. If this is the case, then spray some Marvel mystery oil into the cylinders before you go any further and hope that the oil will loosen this surface rust and not take out the rings.

My reasoning for not using either is that it will fire under compression and that this can cause damage to the engine. I have seen where too much either can actually bind up an engine causing it not to turn over at all.
 
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