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  #1  
Old 04-11-2017, 07:34 AM
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Default New Thiokol Spryte

Hello,
I am new to the forum. Just bought a Thiokol Spryte. I am in Bear Valley, at 7,200 ft. Plenty of snow here this year. I will be posting photos and will start restoration this summer. I am looking for advice on parts, maintenance, et. Thank you!
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  #2  
Old 04-11-2017, 09:45 AM
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Default Re: New Thiokol Spryte

Welcome aboard Mr Snow. You have come to the right place. This is the friendliest forum in all of the internet.
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Old 04-12-2017, 01:00 AM
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Default Re: New Thiokol Spryte

Not many Sprytes in BV besides the old sheriff's one. Did you pick it up locally?
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Old 04-16-2017, 11:48 PM
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Default Re: New Thiokol Spryte

Hello Zspryte. I picked it up at Echo Mountain, from Chameleon's Kier.
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Old 04-17-2017, 11:08 PM
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Unhappy Re: New Thiokol Spryte and a long list of things to repairs

Today I tried to figure out the heater system. Obviously it used to be nest for mice and squirrels. I cleaned that up but I can't get to the heater / fan for the defroster. There is no access from the inside and none from the outside.
From looking at previous posts it seems that the access is from outside, above the radiator cap. Mine is riveted. If it is the only option, then I will drill the rivets.
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Old 04-20-2017, 10:36 PM
zspryte zspryte is offline
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Default Re: New Thiokol Spryte

Can you post a few pictures of your entire machine so we can see what type of Spyte you have. I cannot tell if you have a 601 or 1200. Also, do you know the year?

To get the heater out my 1200, I had to remove the forward most section of the doghouse cover from the inside as some of the heater sits under the front nose. The cover is riveted to some support members. The cover, support brackets, and heater come out as one unit and did not require removing any rivets. During manufacturing, the aft most bracket of this assembly was tack welded to the main structure. I used a Drummel to cut the tack welds. You will need to remove the choke cable and hoses, and all the bolts along the edge of the cover. There are bolts between the heater and front end that are a tad tricky to remove. You can see the holes in the cover in the bottom pic. Finally, lift the aft end of the assembly up slightly and pull everything back.

With this out of the machine you can unbolt the blower from the cover and work on it. Keep an eye on how the foam is packed in as you take things apart.
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Old 04-21-2017, 02:05 AM
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Default Re: New Thiokol Spryte

Thank you Zspryte for your help.

I have a 1201, not sure of the year, around 76-77
Today I managed to remove the heater. The wires were cut at the electrical motor outlet. I had to cut the rivets in the front, remove bolts. A good day of work. This Spryte was modified and that explains why it was so difficult. I have rebuilt the motors and fan and I need to find a radiator shop to clean the heather and check for leaks. I was also looking for a good spot to plug in a water temperature gauge. Now it will be easier.
I have posted some photos (hum, there is an admin problem with the forum servers). I will have to wait.

Foam? I did not see any, just some old oily and soaked pieces on the top of the main radiator.

The engine, transmission and tracks seem OK. So far I fixed the fuel gauge, the lights, and several shorts through the machine.

I have a lot of work to do: corrosion issues, leaks.

Your Spryte looks gorgeous!
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Old 04-21-2017, 10:25 AM
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Default Re: New Thiokol Spryte

Let's again to upload the photos.
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Old 04-22-2017, 05:50 AM
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Default Re: New Thiokol Spryte

SNOW Speaking : Let's again to upload the photos.
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Old 04-22-2017, 03:08 PM
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Default Re: New Thiokol Spryte

@#$!&**! mice. They did the same to the heater box in my 88 LMC 1200. The book says split the cab to gain room to slide the heater core out. I weaseled it out without doing that. I used several bottles of some enzyme designed to kill urine odors. It worked.

The heater started leaking not long ago so I get to do it again. But no mice!
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Old 04-24-2017, 12:02 AM
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Default Re: New Thiokol Spryte

Cleaned the mice/squirrels damage. I don't want to blame them too quickly for the cut wires.
Anyway, I managed to drill the rivets, cut the screws and then dismantled the heater box. Trip to the radiator shop to clean and test. I rebuilt the electric motors, and will be installing a water temperature gauge soon.
So much work, so little results...
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