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What have you done for your Snow Trac today?

Micke Valp

New member
So, what have you done to your special favorite?
New spark plugs? Touch up on the paint? New trac? Or just sitting behind the wheel, dreaming of snow ...

For me, I went to a company to finally foam fill that last wheel (big one) on my snow trac. Last seasons finale with a puncture was not a fun one ...
 

nikos

Active member
So, what have you done to your special favorite?
New spark plugs? Touch up on the paint? New trac? Or just sitting behind the wheel, dreaming of snow ...

For me, I went to a company to finally foam fill that last wheel (big one) on my snow trac. Last seasons finale with a puncture was not a fun one ...

For me.
I went back to "The Garage"
19th of December. NO SNOW, NO FUNNY::sad::sad:,
So i started to solve- fix, some of my little problems in the ST4, that i didn't have the opportunity during the summer or the autumn period, to fix them: hammer::hammer:

A) Problem - Oil leaking,
I start to work to find and fix the leaks from gravity, or when the engine is running.
My opinion is that the possible source of leaks in my ST4 are coming from:

15% from Gravity!!!!!!!::whistling::whistling:
5% from the Oil sump plate (I have to replace the two gaskets on the oil stainer cover )
30% From the Oil cooler in the fun house (to replace the seals)
5% from the Oil filter and breather (one seal)
45% from the right and left valve covers (Two seals)

But always there are some others hidden sources of Oil leaks that i have to find them in the next days.

B) Problem - Replace the Exhaust (New Parts in the same Size)

Nikos
 

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300 H and H

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Nikos,

Besides the ones you know about,....

I think the leak might just be your push rod tubes. mostly looks pretty dry, except for the shield under those push rod tubes.

I hope the heads don't have to come off to seal them, I don't know for sure...

I think yours looks very original. My bet is it may even have the VW thermostat and fan louvers. Check to see. It needs to be removed from under the engine before you can remove the upper fan housing..

Be sure to look closely at those variator out put shaft seals, behind the small chain sprockets. Those seals like to leak, and are a major PIA to change out.

Regards,

Kirk
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
nikos too things 1 check compression any leakage in the cylinder ends up in the crank case check torque on head studs 18 ftlbs for 8 mm studs 21 for 10 mm studs most likely if a 10 mm stud is loose its pulling from the case. if compression is good and heads are tight from your pics it looks like push rod tubes are leaking the oem tubes are steel and will rust until they leak I use stainless steel tubs they will last longer also an adhesive known as pro seal should be used on the push rod tube seals this will keep the tubes sealed even after they loose their spring in the bellows. good luck
 

nikos

Active member
Thanks to you guys

I order 8 pushrod tubes
Next mission, tomorrow is a brand new day :biggrin::biggrin:

Nikos:hammer::hammer:
 

Sno-Surfer

Active member
You'll also need the round seals for ends of the push rods and you'll have to remove the heads to do it. I would take a better look at it and make sure they are leaking. It's a pain to do it and I think you will have to pull the motor.
I see you also have the temperature sending unit on the oil pan. I just took mine off as it wasn't hooked up anyway and that eliminates one area it could leak from, not that your looks like it leaks much there but we don't like leaks.
Good luck. :wink:
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
engines come out easy should take about 20 minuets remove the rockers push rods and heads now is the time to make shure your studs aren't pulling from the case replace the push rod tubes and seals with new seals I use pro seal to seal them up and never have another leak.
 

nikos

Active member
The new project:w00t2::w00t2:

"Replace the Leaky pushrod tubes"

I am not an expert that's why i am asking your opinion.
All the old good guys - Engineers in my town, they retired and it's difficult for them, to participate again in any maintenance and repairs of a classic motor. Some of them were passed away, and the most engineers (the new generation) are working now, in new cars with a lot of different technology.
So all the experience and the new ideas for this type of motors (VW), are coming from the F.F. Anyway i have some questions after we can see from the fotos that the pushrod tubes are leaking in both sides.

FOTO N1
From this way it's easy to remove the valve - rocket cover ok.
It's also easy to unscrew the two nuts of the valve shaft assembly.
Now the question, is:

How easy it's to remove the pushrod from the pushrod tubes, from out side (left and right side), without to pull out the engine?
( I know for Don its only 20 minutes but i want to spent that time somewhere else).

Nikos
 

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Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
A; you wont have clearance beside the side of your engine compartment to pull the rods out, b; is 4 bolts to remove the engine plus what ever shrouding you have added, takes me about 30 minutes to pull my engine than I set it a top a 55 gallon drum for a work surface, c it is almost a 2 man job to put all the tubes in and hold them while you slide the head back into place. also to remove the head the alternator fan tower and breast plates must be removed again a lot easier to remove the engine and inspect every thing while it is out.
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
to put things in perspective I have pulled the motor rebuilt it re installed it and had it running starting at 6pm and had it running and installed by 2 am
 

Sno-Surfer

Active member
Although I've never pulled the. Other out of my snow trac, I have done lots of work on my busses that hs pave the same motor. I would seconded that you should just pull the motor to do this job. It's a little tricky to hold all the tubes and get the head back on by yourself but you can do it.
You do have to tear the engine down quite a ways to get the heads off.
Keep us posted. Good luck.
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
I have found getting wood dowel rods that fit down the insides of the tubes and stick out far enough to guide them in to the holes in the heads will help a lot to get all the tubes to line up really helps when doing it your self used this method a lot in the field working on vw pump engines.
 

nikos

Active member
The project in proccess :hammer:

Merry Christmas to everyone in the F.F.:biggrin::biggrin::biggrin:

Nikos
 

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3512b

Junior Member
GOLD Site Supporter
There are a few down sides to having snow trac friends stop by
what we going to do?
Lets take something apart!
Had low compression in one hole and a chunk of metal found in the drain oil
well we got the engine out mite as well have the trans gone through!
and as long as we that far we can do a rattle can overhaul!
Aint the tucker factory but its what I got
 

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Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
it is stupid not to take the time to clean up and paint the engine bay once you have the varriator out of the way.
 
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