Broke my tractor

DaveNay · Dec 14, 2005

Sigh.....

In connection with my previous thread regarding needing a larger tractor because of it's inability to efficiently plow the drive, I was plowing the drive again this evening after some snow and wind today had deposited about 18" of drifts on almost the entire length of the drive, when just as I was finishing (LUCKY!), I noticed that as I was backing up to push another pile with the FEL, the tractor wouldn't turn. Thinking that I was just on a slick spot, I tried to turn again (made sure the 4WD hadn't disengaged). Looking down at the wheels, I could see the hydraulic cylinder extending and retracting. What the?! So I stop and dismount, grab a flashlight and look under the front axle.

The fixed mounting point of the steering cylinder broke free!!!

Need to get the new assembly on order ASAP before more snow heads in.

:smileywac

Junkman · Dec 15, 2005

I am familiar with orange, blue, red, green & yellow tractors, but I have never seen a all lemon yellow machine. Who manufactured this tractor and in what year? Seems like a manufacturing defect, unless it is one of those heavy duty animal tractors... then it would be called abuse...

Melensdad · Dec 15, 2005

Dave, I forget, are you running a NH or a JD? If its a NH, maybe Neil can express you the part.

Can you post a photo?

DaveNay · Dec 15, 2005

B_Skurka said:
Dave, I forget, are you running a NH or a JD? If its a NH, maybe Neil can express you the part.

Can you post a photo?

It's a JD855. I didn't get a picture last night, it was cold and late.

bczoom · Dec 15, 2005

Dave,

Our tractors are similar so I just went out and took some pictures.
Does your attachment look like this?

DaveNay · Dec 15, 2005

Very similar Brian. The attachment point you have shown (with the castle nut) is the on that broke. Luckily, it is not the front differential mounting point that broke, but the tapered stud that attaches the cylinder to the diff housing.

This picture is from the jdparts.com website.

bczoom · Dec 15, 2005

Yes, luckily not the mount on the front diff.

But, looking at the pics and the part diagram, it doesn't appear that tapered bolt can be replaced by itself. Aren't you going to need a whole new cylinder?

DaveNay · Dec 15, 2005

bczoom said:
Yes, luckily not the mount on the front diff.

But, looking at the pics and the part diagram, it doesn't appear that tapered bolt can be replaced by itself. Aren't you going to need a whole new cylinder?

You noticed that too, huh?

$280 for the cylinder, and I figure I will get new fittings, hoses, o-rings etc all the way back to the hydraulic hard pipe. Almost $350 total.

bczoom · Dec 15, 2005

DaveNay said:
You noticed that too, huh?

$280 for the cylinder, and I figure I will get new fittings, hoses, o-rings etc all the way back to the hydraulic hard pipe. Almost $350 total.

Yea, I noticed... Actually paid close attention as I believe mine is probably the same.
Any idea what caused it to snap in the first place?

DaveNay · Dec 15, 2005

bczoom said:
Yea, I noticed... Actually paid close attention as I believe mine is probably the same.
Any idea what caused it to snap in the first place?

(2) Things....I had never noticed there was a grease fitting on that joint.....stupid of me, if it moves, it is greased. So it was probably dry. If it was dry, the stud diameter may have worn down, and a loose shaft is an easy target for off-angle stresses to snap it off.

Second, the snow was drifted accross the drive similar to a plowed field, so as I drove over the drifts, I could feel the front wheels being forced from side to side by the pressure of the snow. This applied (I assume) too much back pressure to the connection.

Wannafish · Dec 15, 2005

Notice that thingy on the bottom? I've heard that if you put grease in there periodically the metal won't wear down as bad...

Normally the tie rod end is threaded onto the cyclinder shaft - hope yours is that way, and I wish you the best.

DaveNay · Dec 15, 2005

Wannafish said:
Notice that thingy on the bottom? I've heard that if you put grease in there periodically the metal won't wear down as bad...

no shit.

Wannafish said:
Normally the tie rod end is threaded onto the cyclinder shaft - hope yours is that way, and I wish you the best.

Unfortunately, it is broken on the cylinder end, not the shaft end, and I believe it is a single piece. There is no item number called out on the diagram.

bczoom · Dec 15, 2005

One more pic.
I believe it's welded on.

Junkman · Dec 15, 2005

pop that sucker out and then see if you can get a something made up at a machine shop that you can attach a heim joint to to repair it. I would make it more repairable for the future. Also check with JD to see if there might be a hidden warranty replacement policy on the item. I don't believe that you are the first one to break this part.... junk......

PS... you have a tapered shaft made with a threaded stud at the top that the heim joint will go over. The heim joint would be welded to the end of the cylinder.... Clear, or do I need to draw a picture........ I can't draw as well as I can type....... junk....

Junkman · Dec 15, 2005

another thought is see if you can match it up with a tie rod end and then weld the threaded part of the tie rod to the cylinder. Junk..... thinking outside the box..

Chief · Dec 15, 2005

Dave, it may have already been mentioned but have you looked to see it is possible to press the broken bolt/stud out and have another pressed in? I don't know which Deere tractor you have.

Keweenaw4310 · Dec 15, 2005

John Deere 855.

Nice machine.

TOMLESCOEQUIP · Dec 15, 2005

Too bad Mith is so far away..........I know he could fix it with a few parts found in the mud & a welder................

Mith · Dec 15, 2005

Wow, Tom, thanks for the compliment (if it was one

)

Concerningly to be honest I would be tempted to grind the top of the bit thats welded on smooth and flat, then grind the broken off part smooth and flat on the end then grind a chamfer round. Tack weld it back in place, then weld right round couple times. grind it smooth and el viola, repaired. You could also weld a bit more in there if you wanted it to be the same length when its done. Pic explains it better

I just fixed a borken axle using that method, its still holding strong so go for it :beer:

TOMLESCOEQUIP · Dec 15, 2005

Yes Mith, That indeed was a compliment !! Don't get to expectin 'em all the time okay ?

DaveNay · Dec 15, 2005

Well....got the cotter pin out, and the nut off.

Spent more than an hour trying to get the stud out.

Gotta go get a tie-rod fork tomorrow for the air chisel. :smileywac

I coulda sworn I had one around here somewhere.

Junkman · Dec 16, 2005

Put a little heat on the outside of the casting and the metal will expand allowing the stud to come loose. Be careful using the pickle fork, because I have seen cast iron break from the shock effect. I prefer to use a manual fork with a large hammer. You can control it better than using the air hammer with the pickle fork. When you reassemble, use never seize. Junk...

DaveNay · Dec 16, 2005

Junkman said:
Put a little heat on the outside of the casting and the metal will expand allowing the stud to come loose. Be careful using the pickle fork, because I have seen cast iron break from the shock effect. I prefer to use a manual fork with a large hammer. You can control it better than using the air hammer with the pickle fork. When you reassemble, use never seize. Junk...

I tried the heat already. Unfortunately, due to the cold weather, both the propane and the MAPP gas only come out of the torch at a very slow rate, and never form a 'cone' of flame, they look kinda like the big gentle flame you see on the gas vents at a landfill. When I got the flame under the tractor to try to heat the casting, it was a little too large for my comfort.

Junkman · Dec 16, 2005

I would get the tractor to a warm spot before I started to beat on it. If the metal is that cold, it is also that brittle. You don't want to make a bad situation worse. Even if you have to have the tractor hauled to the dealer, it will still be less expensive than if you break the casting off. I speak from experience. Cold metal shrinks and makes the tapered fit so tight that you can do more damage trying to remove the part than the cost of repair at a experienced facility. You need a oxy acetylene torch to get enough heat on the item to make a difference.

DaveNay · Dec 16, 2005

Junkman said:
I would get the tractor to a warm spot before I started to beat on it. If the metal is that cold, it is also that brittle. You don't want to make a bad situation worse. Even if you have to have the tractor hauled to the dealer, it will still be less expensive than if you break the casting off. I speak from experience. Cold metal shrinks and makes the tapered fit so tight that you can do more damage trying to remove the part than the cost of repair at a experienced facility. You need a oxy acetylene torch to get enough heat on the item to make a difference.

I am waiting right now for the dealer to show up with the trailer to take it away to be repaired. I determined that it was not in my best interest to attempt a possibly dangerous ($$$) repair. It will cost me more, but as you say better than breaking the casting.

DaveNay · Dec 16, 2005

DaveNay said:
I am waiting right now for the dealer to show up with the trailer to take it away to be repaired. I determined that it was not in my best interest to attempt a possibly dangerous ($$$) repair. It will cost me more, but as you say better than breaking the casting.

OK....so the wind is blowing like hell out here, and I have to pay $80 for someone to come plow the drive since my tractor is broken. The wife leaves for work, and I stay to wait for the dealer to come with the trailer to pick up the tractor for repair.

AND THE DEALER TRUCK AND TRAILER GET STUCK HALFWAY UP THE DRIVE!!!!

Unhook the trailer, and manage to get the truck up to the house, but now there is a trailer blocking the driveway and getting drifted into place.

I need to start drinking. :drink:

bczoom · Dec 16, 2005

Sounds like you're having too much fun Dave.

Is there any way you can somehow lock the front wheels into a relatively straight position (with maybe a little slack) and use your back brakes to steer?

Junkman · Dec 16, 2005

You should call the dealer and tell them to send another truck and trailer with a tractor on it to get the other trailer out of the driveway and leave it for you as a loaner. Problem solved...

DaveNay · Dec 16, 2005

bczoom said:
Sounds like you're having too much fun Dave.

Is there any way you can somehow lock the front wheels into a relatively straight position (with maybe a little slack) and use your back brakes to steer?

That is exactly what I have been doing to move it around and out of the way, but that is not enough to let me actually plow.

There is a second truck here now from the dealer (dually diesel) and they are trying to get the trailer unstuck.

This really blows....I'm gonna see if they have a snowblower in stock.

Melensdad · Dec 16, 2005

DaveNay said:
This really blows....I'm gonna see if they have a snowblower in stock.

Dave I've got a Buhler Farm King for the back of my tractor, for the amounts of snow you & I get it works great and was reasonably priced.
Heck of a lot faster than plowing too. Maybe when they bring your tractor back they can have a blower hooked up to it?

BTW is it still snowing by you? It stopped here for about an hour, the sun actually came out. But we have light snow falling right now. Almost no wind. We got about an inch today.

Broke my tractor

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