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Bombardier Bombi Restoration

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
I recently purchased a starter through Boggie at MN Outdoors (thank you!) and after looking at how I was going to replace it......made the decision to start on a full refurbishment (will need to pull the engine). I finished the SW-48 last year and figured why not.....it’s a journey worth doing again!

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Having fun!

Bob
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Lol.....no fun in a two week project. I’ll do this beauty justice....make her like new!

Bob
 

snowcatt

Member
Hi Bob
There fun projects
I completely took apart 5 Bombis and restored them over the last few years
I always put all new bearing in the complete machine and new bushings in the diff
One thing I learned is if your going to foam the tires get the rims sand blasted and either powder coated with epoxy paint .i found after a bit the tires start to move a bit on the rims
Water gets in and the rims rot and there’s nothing you can do
I had 3 disintegrated on me in the last 2 years the tires were filled when I got the machine
Have fun
 

Hipboy11

New member
Trying to locate a starter for my SW-64F. I've got a 251ci Chrysler flathead. Parts store hasn't been to helpful. Any good leads out there?
 

MNoutdoors RIP

Gone But Not Forgotten
GOLD Site Supporter
Trying to locate a starter for my SW-64F. I've got a 251ci Chrysler flathead. Parts store hasn't been to helpful. Any good leads out there?

Try these guys
Phone number lower right
 

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Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Bombi is officially apart and ready for a “back to new” rebuild. I pulled the engine to redo the clutch and did a compression test while I had it out......and found a bad cylinder ....#2. Decided to mount the engine , pull the head.......and #2 cylinder has a “leak”. Not sure if it’s coolant or oil.....but taking the block/head in for a cleaning/pressure test. I’ll likely get a rebuild kit and make her like new. Luckily, the cylinder walls looked brand new....along with the cam and crank (I’ll have them checked for cracks as well). Oh.....didn’t notice a rear main seal leak until I pulled the transmission....40 year old machine, it was ready for some attention.

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Having fun!

Bob
 

olympicorange

Active member
………. by the ''dark'' color, oil soaked would be a good guess,... did it smoke ''blue'' when it first started. looks like a badly worn piston ring/cracked/broken,... plenty of carbon ''build-up'',... other cyls. not as bad. did you by chance perform a compression test. shine a light into the intake ports , to see if leakage was present; valve guide seal. a lot of engines don't use a guide seal on the exhaust, plus the heat & outlet flow ''wisk'' most evidence away. if you were ''passing'' coolant out of the engine, usually you would smell a ''sweet'' odor, or ''grey-ish / white'' smoke could be present sometimes, if no visible leak is obvious,... and lots of other things also,... to be continued,...
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
It sure did......lots of blue smoke. If it’s a broken ring, the walls show no wear (cross hatch looks like it’s a new engine).....making me think it’s the head. There was quite a bit of carbon build up (on the valves too). I’ll follow up soon (engine went to the machine shop today)......pressure test will be key.

I rebuilt a Detroit diesel a few years ago due to a sweet smelling exhaust (head was cracked, fouled up a cylinder/piston.....walls were scored). Making me think (hoping)....its a stuck valve or the like on this Ford Industrial. Push rods, cam followers, crank.....they look perfect (fingers crossed).

It’s the journey.....having fun!
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Got the engine back from the machine shop! Had the head rebuilt and inspected, block cleaned, cylinders opened + 0.020 and cam bearings installed (those are fun without the right tool). Installed the pistons Sunday ....no broken rings! Phew!

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And a picture of a coyote who was right outside my pole barn...

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Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Installed the crankshaft, camshaft and head this weekend. The valve lash on the intake valve was .008.....but the specs called for 0.022 on the exhaust valve. I’m going with what the manual calls out for the engine (KSG416)....but 0.022 seems like a lot. Thoughts?

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olympicorange

Active member
….. looking good,... so , on your valve lash adjustments,... normally your intake is less than the exhaust, due to the heat factory of the exhaust temps. on the exh. valve ports & components. .020''-,025'' is a normal lash ( especially on diesels). so I wouldn't be alarmed at setting it to .022'' . it may ''tick'' slightly upon break-in & warm-up., but should go away . if not, you can always ''snug'' up the lash to like....018'' , or so , till it's quiet at operating temp. and no such thing as ''0ver pre-lubing'' everything in engine on reassembly.... :thumbup::thumbup:
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Thanks OlymicOrange. I use Clevite Bearing Guard for rebuilds...on almost everything. I used straight motor oil on the Tappets.....clearance is in 10ths......each one measured within .0001”.
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Painted the engine with Duplicolor Ford Blue. Acetoned the engine prior to remove the rust protector ....decided to paint the valve cover and oil pan blue ....though the POR15 looked good but not UV resistant (which shouldn’t matter under the engine cover).

Having fun!

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Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Gents,

Has anyone resurfaced/machined the flywheel ? I’ve got a new clutch plate from Boggie (thank you Boggie!!).....but the Bombi’s flywheel surface looks rusty,glazed....sandblasting work? I’ve got a CNC Mill ...dust the face with a carbide endmill....?

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Thoughts?

Thank you

Bob
 

J5 Bombardier

Well-known member
I would definitely clean that up with a light cut straight across. Once those alignment pins are out and your set up it would be nice to see the CNC in action.
J5 Bombardier:hammer:
 

olympicorange

Active member
……. yes, definitely agree ...resurface the ''face '' of flywheel … you want to remove any heat/glaze areas, etc... a flat surface for clutch disc will prevent ''chatter'' when engaging , slippage ...prolongs clutch disc life, etc... etc... lookn good ….
 

olympicorange

Active member
…. those old flywheels usually have plenty of ''meat'' to resurface ,... if you think it's been turned already.... once you resurface , or before...you can measure thickness , and check with specs. most flywheel machine shops have the info , by application, cast #'s , p/n's, etc....:thumbup:
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Thanks J5 and Olympic!

I’ve never replaced a clutch, but understanding the operation and components.....should I also clean up the pressure plate? It looks to me that would be of issue if too much material is removed.....?

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I’ll write two CNC programs to do this (or just one for the flywheel). If I can get a good set up on the mill, I’ll be able to do this for others (I’m hobbyist, so no cost involved other than tooling and time....with the disclaimer that “send me your clutch parts at your own risk!”).

Thanks gents!
 

J5 Bombardier

Well-known member
You might have to be pretty light on that belleville spring pressure plate cut. Not to bad adjusting pressure plate finger height on the other style , but you may have to take it in to the rebuild shop if the face is still to ruff. Don't want to smoke that new disc.
J5 Bombardier :hammer:
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
You might have to be pretty light on that belleville spring pressure plate cut. Not to bad adjusting pressure plate finger height on the other style , but you may have to take it in to the rebuild shop if the face is still to ruff. Don't want to smoke that new disc.
J5 Bombardier :hammer:

Exactly. I think I can get a nice surface finish taking a couple thousandths off the flywheel (maybe 0.010 if pitted), but if same on pressure plate....not sure how deep I can go without losing dimension for clutch to engage properly. Using carbide endmills or face mills....a light cut can leave a ruff finish (I.e. it’ll tear the steel vs. cutting it without some depth for the tool).

I’ve never used a grinding disc on the CNC...I’ll look into as an option.

I read a by line on a members post “for a little more, you can do it yourself”....hilarious! And true. Where’s the fun in having someone else do the work.

Bob
 

olympicorange

Active member
…. clutches can be a real headache sometimes,... I don't know of too many individuals , myself included, that like going thru the paces of the process. so all I can say is ; do it like you won't ever have to do it again. refurbish everything, calibrate , clutch jig, spring tensions, etc... this is one area where ''skimping'' bites ...hard
 

PJL

Well-known member
I worked as a mechanic in a previous life. Did more than a few clutches. Everything was new. Pressure plate, disc, throw out bearing, slave cylinder if it was internal, resurface flywheel. If you have to eat your own comeback you learn quickly.
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
I worked as a mechanic in a previous life. Did more than a few clutches. Everything was new. Pressure plate, disc, throw out bearing, slave cylinder if it was internal, resurface flywheel. If you have to eat your own comeback you learn quickly.

I’ll reach out to Boggie.....see if he has a new spring plate and throw out bearing for the Bombi....why second guess...do it right.

Thank you gents

Bob
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Spoke with Boggie.....parts are on their way! Yeah, he is that good! I’d bet if we needed a titanium dipped , left handed smoke shifter....he’d have 3 in stock (or know someone with 3 in stock). We’re lucky to have him!
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Coming along! Mounted the engine into a test stand, about 50% reassembled......and our favorite parts vendor was Johnny on the spot! (Thanks Brad!).

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Having fun!
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Engine rebuild complete (almost). After attempted starts, adjusting distributor for timing....something wasn’t quite right. I realized I had hooked the coils negative side to the battery vs. the distributor! (Figured this out after stopping, driving home from our farm....will go at it again next weekend). The transmission did go on (with a lot of brute force trying to align the clutch splines with the crankshaft and power take off shaft)....got er done.

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Having fun!
 
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