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lawn mower oil?

working woman

New member
Site Supporter
Finally learned how to change the lawn mower oil (yes I know it was better to change it at the end of last season, but I had a hard time to find somebody to show me)
Anyway, the person told me that there was no difference in between lawn mower oil and car oil. Just the price.
So is there a difference or is it just a racket?
 

bczoom

Super Moderator
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
A racket...

In your area, I'd run 10W-30 unless it states to run otherwise. What mfgr and HP is the engine?
 

California

Charter Member
Site Supporter
For the simple type mower, its user manual usually recommends a simple (and inexpensive) grade of motor oil.

Usually straight 30 weight, in contrast to the 10-30 or 5w-20 multigrade specified for modern cars. And not synthetic.

A mower accumulates dust in the oil so you change it often, to flush the abrasive junk out. This frequency is more important than spending money on expensive oil, because it will be polluted by contamination long before chemical breakdown.

If no other information is available, buy the cheapest 30 weight motor from a nationally recognized brand.
 

TOMLESCOEQUIP

Just Plinkin Away the $$
Finally learned how to change the lawn mower oil (yes I know it was better to change it at the end of last season, but I had a hard time to find somebody to show me)
Anyway, the person told me that there was no difference in between lawn mower oil and car oil. Just the price.
So is there a difference or is it just a racket?

Pretty much any good name brand 10w30 0r 10w40 multigrade will work just fine. The lawn mower people have theirs bottled in smaller containers for those optically challenged people who can't read a dipstick or look at the level where the fill plug is, so they don't over fill the engine. Smaller container @ twice the price !!

Use enough oil to fill it, check it again after running it a time or two, & save the rest for later or put it in your car.

Damn I hate mowing !!!!!!!!!! But it IS better than pushing snow !!

Tom
 

working woman

New member
Site Supporter
A racket...

In your area, I'd run 10W-30 unless it states to run otherwise. What mfgr and HP is the engine?


Cant remember off the top of my head. (at work) I have two used lawn mowers (riding and walk behind) Neither one came with an owners manual)
think the walk behind is a 650?
The riding one was stored in my garage from my sister, who decided that she wasnt going to need it so I bought it off her. Have no clue how the dam thing works either:4_11_9: . My brother in law (the one who showed me) said to get 30 w as well. (dont really trust the guy's bs so thats the reason I'm asking)
 

California

Charter Member
Site Supporter
Straight from the horse's mouth,
briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/routine_maintenance/changing_oil/:
Use Briggs & Stratton SAE 30W Oil above 40°F (4°C) for all of our engines.

Air cooled engines run hotter than automotive engines. Use of multi-viscosity oils (10W-30, etc.) above 40° F (4° C) will result in high oil consumption and possible engine damage.
I would use multigrade for a snow blower or other cold weather gear.
30 wt for any temperature where you are likely to go out and mow a lawn.

Incidentally these numbers, 10-30, 30, etc just indicate how easily the oil pours. 10 seconds to go through a small funnel vs 30 seconds, etc. And any brand adequate for autos is fine, for a much simpler mower engine.
 

bczoom

Super Moderator
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
I don't know... I do agree with California that a straight 30 weight is probably better but 10W-30 is so damn universal that you can put a 1/2 quart back on the garage shelf and use it again in most any piece of equipment.

It's been awhile but I also believe the straight 30W is more expensive than 10W-30.

I've got too many engines to pick the optimum grade for each as I'd need charts and a whole cabinet for individual engine oil. I try to limit it to as few as possible. Oil for gas engines, oil for diesels and hopefully, that's it.
 

RNE228

Bronze Member
Site Supporter
I would look at the rating of the oil, and what the manufacturer recomends.

Most newer oils have additives removed for water cooled and smogged motors. Air cooled engines used to like more of those high pressure and high temp additives.

Straight from the horse's mouth,
briggsandstratton.com/maint_repair/routine_maintenance/changing_oil/:
I would use multigrade for a snow blower or other cold weather gear.
30 wt for any temperature where you are likely to go out and mow a lawn.

Incidentally these numbers, 10-30, 30, etc just indicate how easily the oil pours. 10 seconds to go through a small funnel vs 30 seconds, etc. And any brand adequate for autos is fine, for a much simpler mower engine.
 

fogtender

Now a Published Author
Site Supporter
Finally learned how to change the lawn mower oil (yes I know it was better to change it at the end of last season, but I had a hard time to find somebody to show me)
Anyway, the person told me that there was no difference in between lawn mower oil and car oil. Just the price.
So is there a difference or is it just a racket?

Well now that everyone has given you the "Skinny" on the oil... There was a few other things that you may want to put on your list of "To Do's" when you check the mower again.

1. Were the Muffler bearings greased? If not, the muffler will start to squeak after about two seasons...

2. Were the tires rotated? If not, then you could start making offer centered cuts resulting in brown grass from being cut twice in one mowing...

3. Was the mower blade rewound? If it was not rewound, then it could start to lose it's hitting power and the grass will have "Patches" of grass standing after a good afternoon of mowing...

4. If it was a riding mower, did you have the Halogen fluid levels checked in the lights? No brainer there, no fluid, no lights, or at best, very dim...

5. More than likely, it was an air cooled engine, if so, then did you check the air accumulation tank that stores the cool air? If not, then the engine may have sharp periods of overheating...

Well there may be some others than can give a few more pointers, but that should be a bit of help...:thumb:
 

XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq

Master of Distraction
Staff member
SUPER Site Supporter
Well now that everyone has given you the "Skinny" on the oil... There was a few other things that you may want to put on your list of "To Do's" when you check the mower again.

1. Were the Muffler bearings greased? If not, the muffler will start to squeak after about two seasons...

2. Were the tires rotated? If not, then you could start making offer centered cuts resulting in brown grass from being cut twice in one mowing...

3. Was the mower blade rewound? If it was not rewound, then it could start to lose it's hitting power and the grass will have "Patches" of grass standing after a good afternoon of mowing...

4. If it was a riding mower, did you have the Halogen fluid levels checked in the lights? No brainer there, no fluid, no lights, or at best, very dim...

5. More than likely, it was an air cooled engine, if so, then did you check the air accumulation tank that stores the cool air? If not, then the engine may have sharp periods of overheating...

Well there may be some others than can give a few more pointers, but that should be a bit of help...:thumb:

Wow! Fog for someone in Alaska you sure know a lot about lawn mowers. :rolleyes:

The above advice indicates to me that you have experience in a lawnmower repair shop and must have been very profitable. :whistle:
 

Tractors4u

Active member
Site Supporter
Wow! Fog for someone in Alaska you sure know a lot about lawn mowers. :rolleyes:

The above advice indicates to me that you have experience in a lawnmower repair shop and must have been very profitable. :whistle:

That was very insightful. Can you give us any weed eater pointers as well?
 

fogtender

Now a Published Author
Site Supporter
Wow! Fog for someone in Alaska you sure know a lot about lawn mowers. :rolleyes:

The above advice indicates to me that you have experience in a lawnmower repair shop and must have been very profitable. :whistle:

Nope, never made a dime fixing lawn movers, always did it for free, but I could see it could have been a calling...:tiphat:
 

fogtender

Now a Published Author
Site Supporter
That was very insightful. Can you give us any weed eater pointers as well?

Sure, where I live, you have to make sure they are put away every evening or the bears tend to eat them... The downside to owning a "Weedeater" is that they crap all over the yard... But that is more of the gardening side of the "Weedeater" pointers... Just make sure they have plenty of water to wash all the weeds down.
 

California

Charter Member
Site Supporter
Were the Muffler bearings greased? ... mower blade rewound... fluid levels checked in the lights...

.... that should be a bit of help...
Wow! Fog for someone in Alaska you sure know a lot about lawn mowers. :rolleyes:

The above advice indicates to me that you have experience in a lawnmower repair shop and must have been very profitable. :whistle:
That's nothing. He has an amazing insight into politics, too! :thumb: Just watch and see what he says! :D
 
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