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Interior Panel Discussion

catservice

Member
What is everyone’s thoughts on interior paneling? I’ve tried multiple materials, but I’m an amateur with interiors. Just looking for ideas, so I thought I’d consult with the experts.

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andyv916

Member
I have been using 1" acoustic foam on the roof and the diamond foam floor mat for the door panels . The gorilla spray adhesive from home depot seems to be much better than the 3M .
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
my lmtv has frp (fiber reinforced plastic panels) they are retained with plastic body rivets. they are utilitarian and likely don't have the best sound deadening characteristics, but it looks nice and is easy to keep up.
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Andy,

On our first two Tucker projects we installed marine-grade rubber backed carpeting; essentially copying what Tucker did, though with hopefully a higher quality product. It's relatively cheap, easy to work with, and forgiving of minor errors. But it's also a somewhat uninspired choice.

On the Thundercat project, we lined the interior of the cab with an adhesive backed, sound deadening material, similar to Fat Mat, etc, though at a lower price point. It has a foil facing and is easy to cut and apply. As it gets covered up with other materials we thought it was okay to piece it together, which significantly cuts down on waste. That was applied everywhere: roof, side walls, doors, firewall, floors... you get the idea.

Then we used a 1/2" foam-backed perforated vinyl product everywhere but the firewall and floors. We thought the foam would further reduce noise and vibration, and it would act as thermal insulation as well. For the floors we used a 1/8" thick recycled rubber product with a small, pebble-grain texture.

With both of those products there's no cheating. It has to fit right (essentially perfect) or it looks like cr*p. We made patterns for each panel out of poster board first to ensure the size and shape were dead-on before we cut the upholstery material.

It's a time-consuming process, but the result is a professional looking job. We think it looks much nicer than the carpet and believe it will significantly cut down the noise inside the cab. It's likely we'll use these products on our subsequent snowcat projects. More money and more work, but we think the result is worth it.
 

Jphoenix

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
This is timely, I just bought some fat mat like material and 1” thick Soundown insulation for lining the interior of the engine box.

I used Soundown for the engine box on my diesel boat and it’s extremely effective.
 

catservice

Member
On the Thiokol’s something in the neighborhood of 5/8” to 3/4” makes life easy. I went through and welded a bunch of 3/4” tubing sections. After it’s all carpeted, I plan to install some aluminum strips screwed into the pieces I welded in. Hopefully this will lock it all together and keep it all in place.

I think the perfect setup would be some lightweight 5/8” board that you could make panels out of.

I don’t love wood because if/when it gets wet it causes disasters.

Just my 2 cents thus far.


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hansoni

Member
When we did our IMP project a few years ago we used a 1/2" thick lightweight gym mat type stuff and glued it on with I think what is called Lexcell? in a caulking tube. Worked well was pretty cheap and easy to cut with a utility knife.
 

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Taxrulz

New member
Hansoni,

Yours looks really good. Does it help with sound too? Would you change anything?

My new to me Spryte looks about like the pictures in catservice’s post. I’m going to tackle this next summer.

Thanks,

Taxrulz
 
Folks after review and testing of multiple materials I settled on 80mil butyl rubber with foil. Tested with heat and ice for temperature effects. Easy, forgiving, little to no waste, cuts with razor knife. Get rough cut within 1/4”, trim till exact, pull back paper for back adhesive and set. Then I used black 1/4” headliner to cover with auto upholstry contact glue brushed on. Only lesson learned was I do not like the headaches after contact high. Del Kerns Upholestry sells on eBay. The hot rod and custom stereo shops use for road noise.
 

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cloudcap

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
I just finished spiffing up the interior of my 1404 Imp based on the approach that hansoni described earlier in this thread. So far I'm pretty happy with the results -- it looks nice sitting in the shop and in a few weeks we'll see how it performs in the snow (sound & thermal insulation). The products I used were all from Amazon:
  • ProsourceFit Puzzle Exercise Mat ½”, EVA Foam Interlocking Tiles Protective Flooring for Gym Equipment and Cushion for Workouts,
  • Sashco 13010 10.5oz Sashco Sealants Clear Lexel Adhesive Caulk, 10.5-Ounce, and
  • Edge Trim Black U Extrusion Medium Size | U Height: 17/32", Grip Range: 3/64" - 9/64" | PVC Plastic Edge Protector.
The lighting is just red LED strips glued to the ceiling w/ the Lexel adhesive (wires are tucked into the corner between mats and then run forward to above the windshields).

I appreciate being able to steal good ideas from other people on the Forum -- it is way easier than figuring everything out on my own.

Thanks!

Ron

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PJL

Well-known member
That floor mat material does look pretty sharp. I imagine it's water resistant and provides some sound deadening as well.
 

ezroller

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Folks after review and testing of multiple materials I settled on 80mil butyl rubber with foil. Tested with heat and ice for temperature effects. Easy, forgiving, little to no waste, cuts with razor knife. Get rough cut within 1/4”, trim till exact, pull back paper for back adhesive and set. Then I used black 1/4” headliner to cover with auto upholstry contact glue brushed on. Only lesson learned was I do not like the headaches after contact high. Del Kerns Upholestry sells on eBay. The hot rod and custom stereo shops use for road noise.
I second this type of material. I've built several Car audio systems and rattle/ road noise is my nemesis. Here's the best layering process I've found.
1. Dynamite, sound mat, roofing flashing 6" rolls HD, its all the same best applied with heat gun. This deals with resonance and vibration You don't need to crazy here. every other square foot place a 12" x 12". Think checkerboard.

2. MLV- mass loaded vinyl rubber faced with closed cell foam 1/8" MLV 1/2" CCF. Sold by many vendors. This blocks sound. It can be heavy and doesn't always adhere well on vertical planes. 5/8" thick Depends on the adhesives and ambient temperature during use.

3. Hydrophobic Melamine Foam. This step is extra for the audiophiles. This absorbs middle and high frequencies

Yes, I'm that guy booming down the street and not one rattle in my 4runner. NOT ONE = ) Typically, then the interior panels enclose all this. So for us, some sort of decorative paneling. This WILL result in a cadillac like ride.
 
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