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Government Meadows run

PJL

Well-known member
As promised, I took the cat out today. I had a new colleague to train in driving. We ran it about 10 miles up to Government Meadows to haul the trash out and recover a burned up abandoned snowmobile. The cat ran great for the most part. I have noticed that once it's been running awhile if I let it sit and idle the carb gets hot and it vapor locks when we try to drive off again. At one point I had to lift the hood and cover it with a wet rag to cool it down. I'm thinking either it needs a heat shield above the exhaust manifold or a source of cold air. It has the 300 Ford six. It would be very easy to add a bilge blower type system to pull cold air from underneath and blow it on the carb. Any thoughts?

Can anyone identify the make and model of snowmobile that this pile of wreckage once was? I would like to find the VIN.
 

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4TrackCat

New member
Site Supporter
As promised, I took the cat out today. I had a new colleague to train in driving. We ran it about 10 miles up to Government Meadows to haul the trash out and recover a burned up abandoned snowmobile. The cat ran great for the most part. I have noticed that once it's been running awhile if I let it sit and idle the carb gets hot and it vapor locks when we try to drive off again. At one point I had to lift the hood and cover it with a wet rag to cool it down. I'm thinking either it needs a heat shield above the exhaust manifold or a source of cold air. It has the 300 Ford six. It would be very easy to add a bilge blower type system to pull cold air from underneath and blow it on the carb. Any thoughts?

Can anyone identify the make and model of snowmobile that this pile of wreckage once was? I would like to find the VIN.
That's definitely an Arctic Cat King Cat. My guess is 2003-2005. I can tell by the skid springs, floor board pattern and outer floorboard edging.
 

PJL

Well-known member
I knew someone would know, thanks. The engine wasn't in the pile we have. It might be buried still. It's been there awhile.
 

nikos

Active member
The burned up abandoned snowmobile.

Nikos
 

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NorthernRedneck

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
I once came upon a crispy sled that was obviously stolen then torched and abandoned. It was still burning when I got there but nobody around. I put it out with my fire extinguisher then called police.
I was out in the lamtrac grooming at the time.
 

pixie

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
I've been having a similar issue of apparent vapor lock on my 300-6 but changing the fuel filter calmed it down.
If that doesn't help, try rerouting the gas line so it's away from the hottest places.
 

bczoom

Super Moderator
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
It's a generic answer, but this is what I found.
https://www.reference.com/vehicles/...e-5ed3d902bb3e4d74?qo=contentSimilarQuestions

To locate the VIN on a snowmobile, go toward the right side of the vehicle and look toward the bottom of the side for the VIN plate. Normally, the plate is positioned on the body of the snowmobile about 3 inches beneath the lower edge of the seat. Also, the plate is located nearer to the rear side of the seat than its front.

A youtube version:

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZFm0eXQq30"]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2ZFm0eXQq30[/ame]
 

Track Addict

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Def an older zr mountain chassis prob 800 or maybe 900cc. The vin should be stamped on the tunnel right here . Back then I think they were only 7 digits or so where as the newer ones have letters numbers and much longer.
 

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teamster

New member
If rerouting the gas line and changing the filter does not work, I used a heater motor from any 1970 to 1985 Chev pickup to blow air into the area around the carb in the past. I put a 440 Arctic Cat snowmobile into an Argo one time and the heater motor cooled the engine fine.
 

GSSD06

Member
Is there already an insulating plate between the carburetor and the intake manifold?
If you get the carburetor too cold it could lead to ice forming in the venturi. I have had this problem with aftermarket aluminum intake manifolds at sustained moderate throttle opening during cold temperatures near the dew point (cold foggy days). The cure there was a heater hose routed through a passage in the aluminum manifold to heat it slightly.
Is the fuel line getting hot or just the carburetor? If there is an inline clear filter or a way to install one at least temporarily it could allow you to see if the fuel is running clear or has air bubbles.
You can get pressure regulators with a return line back to the gas tank to keep the fuel lines cool and purged of air if that is where the problem is and if moving or insulating the fuel lines does not cure the problem.
 

PJL

Well-known member
Track Addict, I have some steel wool and carb cleaner. I'll try scouring that area. It is still intact so I should have some success finding the stamped numbers.

Thanks Teamster. Any luck with a Coolcarb heatshield? More inclined to add a fan to deal with the heat though.
 

PJL

Well-known member
GSSD, I'll have to look but my recollection is that there is no heat shield.
 
My Sprite use to vapor lock too, usually after sitting when warm. I ended up putting an electric fuel pump from Napa on it and it solved the problem. The engine driven fuel pump's location seems to be in hot location and vapor locks easily. With the electric pump I was able to reroute the fuel line and keep the system cool.
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
uou guys with vapor lock issues I would bet are all using rubber hose between the fuel pump and carb. replace it with a ss brake line should fix the problem. most guys don't like the hassle of dealing with inverted flare fittings ,but they used them at the oem level for a reason
 

PJL

Well-known member
Thanks for the help on the Arctic Cat VIN location. Looks like the area I need to see is melted away. Unless.... All the pics I have found of the VIN location show that riveted plate stops further forward. And they are pop riveted not solid. Could this piece have been replaced and extended to reinforce it? If so then the VIN is hiding under that patch.

I'll tackle the carb issues next week.
 

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redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
those military iron restorers state: 'if it isn't melted down it can be rebuilt"

This one is pushing it.....
 
my sv200 would not idle after I ran it-----someone had built a new ss tank-----what I thought was maybe vapor lock----was my gas tank vent----the vent that wasn't there ---lol----run it with gas cap loose no problems
 

Woodchuck

New member
uou guys with vapor lock issues I would bet are all using rubber hose between the fuel pump and carb. replace it with a ss brake line should fix the problem. most guys don't like the hassle of dealing with inverted flare fittings ,but they used them at the oem level for a reason

I'm also having what I think are vapor lock issues in my new-to-me (Sno-Surfer's old-to-him) Snow Trac. I was thinking of installing an electric fuel pump, but replacing the rubber hose with stainless steel brake line seems easier. I don't know enough about engines to understand why that would work.
 

Sno-Surfer

Active member
Just my two cents to Woodchuck, I would keep the stock fuel pump. They are very reliable. Some later type 4 engines had fuel pump issues but these type 1's work best with a stock pump.
I also would have the vapor lock issues with that snow trac and I guess I got used to letting it sit for 15 min or so after a good uphill run. I don't know why it does that, my busses don't have that problem no matter how hot they get.
I would let it run a bit too to let it cool down before shutting it down. I could predict when it might happen after a long run and would let it idle a bit. I had it happen once on the way up the hill and had to let it sit for a while before continuing. Overall once I knew what it was I just managed it and made sure not to run the battery down trying to start it and let it cool.
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
My trac would occasionally do that. I put in an electric pump at the tank that allows free flow. It has a spring return on / off / on switch. If I need to prime, I use the spring return until I hear the pump load up. If pulling real heavy up hill I sometimes noticed improvement if I used it. If Off, the normal mechanical pump usually does just fine.

I'm using the OEM inside tank, if that makes a difference.

CT
 

JimVT

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
I'm also having what I think are vapor lock issues in my new-to-me (Sno-Surfer's old-to-him) Snow Trac. I was thinking of installing an electric fuel pump, but replacing the rubber hose with stainless steel brake line seems easier. I don't know enough about engines to understand why that would work.
what are the symptoms of this vapor lock?
 

PJL

Well-known member
I gave up on identifying the burned sled. The area I need to see is melted away. Thanks for all the advice. Heck I didn't even know the manufacturer of it.

I peeked under the hood of the 1200. Has steel fuel piping from the pump to the carb. There are no heat shields of any sort around the carb. Really liking the idea of a CarbCooler heat shield.
 

Woodchuck

New member
what are the symptoms of this vapor lock?

For me, failure to re-start, and a complete absence of gas getting into the carb when trying. When I took apart the gas lines (later), none of them were blocked. And when I took off the fuel pump, it appeared to work just fine. I think I also have some loose wire connections to fix.

Is a CarbCooler heat shield something to try as well?
 

PJL

Well-known member
I had a somewhat free morning and tinkered with the cat a bit. I added this heat reflective covering to the fuel line.

Also turned around the heater valve. I had it pointed the wrong way. Taking it back out next week so we will see how I did.

The cool carb website says it's not recommended for a straight 6 with overlapping manifolds due to too much heat melting the insulating layer.

http://www.coolcarb.com/
 

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PJL

Well-known member
Today we made another run to Government Meadows. The road was pretty bad. First couple miles were ice. Cat is really sketchy on ice. The heater works correctly now with the valve turned around. I can actually turn the heat off.

The insulation on the fuel line helped. It still stumbles when taking off after letting it sit and idle for a few minutes but it's better than it was. I'm gonna look for a phenolic spacer.

No new pics because it looked just like the last time.
 
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