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Ignition parts #s for Chrysler 251

pixie

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
The original 251 that is in many early SW48 and J5 and even Muskegs is an Industrial motor. The auto parts guys need to look in a tractor book.
My distributor is # IAY 4004-1 which is correct for the Industrial motor. The number is on a plate on the top side of the distributor below the coil. Other distributors were on this motor in other applications and some of the ignition parts will fit the other distributors.
The cap was listed as unavailable. So we found a similar dist. ( IAD 4040-1 ) and used that cap # since it took the same rotor, points, and coil but the condenser # was AL 869.
Most of these are Echlin #s

Cap AL63
Rotor AL62
Points CS725A ( gap about .019? )
Coil IC 14 ( has resistor in it ) IC 12 has no resistor.
Condenser AL 868
Spark Plugs AC Delco R45 ( gap .35 ? )

I'm posting this because a member asked me for the part #s. I didn't buy all the stuff and try it. If you find new info, please add it.

Disclaimer: Information on the internet is only worth what it cost you !
 

aulen2002

Member
There are 2 styles of 12v rotor caps on the Chrysler flat heads. One is taller than the other. They do not interchange (nor do the points, etc).

The parts from the 230 car/truck flatheads (and the 251s) will swap from engine to engine, as long as matched parts are used. There was also a 24v military system, and from what I read the distributer tang that fits into the high volume oil pump is off-centered whereas the 12v is centered. This end can be swapped allowing use of the high vol oil pump with the 12v dist.

Lots of good info at http://www.vintagepowerwagons.com/
Lots of parts at NAPA, CarQuest, etc. You just need to find someone older behind the counter that knows what a coil and distributer are:hammer:
 

pixie

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
Here's some distributor info from that website.
 

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DynatracGuy

New member
I found that a good automotive reference is a 1965 Dodge WM300 Power Wagon. Funny that NAPA didn't have it on storm computers, but did have everything on web site! So I had to stand behind the counter and read off the part numbers from web site while clerk typed in the order. Here below is some alternate parts I found through online documents:

Engine Chrysler Industrial, IND8 (IND8A?), 251 ci L6
Used In 1965 Dodge WM300 Power Wagon truck
Spark Plugs Non-Resistor: Champion 871, Autolite 295 Resistor: Autolite 306, E3.52
Ignition Wires O'Reily CH617, Autolite 96073, Xact 2601
Condenser Echlin AL869, Oreily G124
Points Autolite Dist.: Mileage Plus Electrical CS851SB, Oreily A85 Chrysler Dist: Oreily A110P
Dist. Cap Autolite Dist: Echlin AL106, Oreily C143 Chrysler Dist: Oreily C190
Dist. Rotor Autolite Dist: Echlin AL107, Oreily D128 Chrysler Dist: Oreily D147


Head Gasket Fel-Pro Gaskets 7688C

Temp. Sensor Echlin TS6178, BWD WT127


Notes Autolite distributor is 3.125” dia, 0.375” alignment tab. Chrysler is 3.375” dia, 1” alignment tab.
 

FBKS_Ben

New member
I picked up a 68 J5 and the only problem on the flat 6 that I have run into twice out in the field is, I loose spark becuse of mosture. I would like to get rig of point and put in a electronic distributor. Anyone have some ideas.
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
the points should work fine for you if you aer having problems look at your condenser if that is weak you will arc the ponts and cause metal transfer and pitting i have 2 years on my points now with no problems and my snow trac runs every day if you have moisture problems as i sometines do with snow blowing in to the engine seal the cap and distributor with some automotive silicone formagasket it will work for everything except total imersion
 

DynatracGuy

New member
You can also seal ign wire ends with silicone as well. I assume you are not referring to moisture at the business end of the spark plug. Moisture there usually means bad head gasket and coolant getting into one or more cylinders.
 

aulen2002

Member
check out petronix....

(i've been looking this week. Seem to have different kits for the chrysler and autolite distributors)
 

DynatracGuy

New member
MDS makes an electronic ignition that can use the existing points. With almost no current going through them they should last a very long time. And you can easily switch back to original in an emergency. I've purchased one and will try it out soon. I've used a Petronics conversion on a Pinzgauer ex-military truck. You have to replace the mounting plate that holds the points and install a plastic ring containing small magnets on the cam. It works, but the kit must match the distributor exactly. Since the IND8 has an Autolite or Chrysler distributor getting the right kit could be tricky. The internals are different between them. And going back to points in an emergency is non-trivial.
 

cdog

Member
Old thread i know....
I just emailed hot sparks...they make electronic ignitions for many distributors.
He told me they did not offer a kit for the IAY 4004-1.
So my question is...what other distributors will work on the 251....so I may luck out and find one that will work and accept the electronic ignition?
 

cdog

Member
After some browsing I have stumbled across langdonsstovebolt.com
They offer a ready to go drop in hei distributor for chrysler flat sixes...think ill try one out!
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
I've been watching this thread ,I can't really understand why one would go through so much work to change from points for the amount of time most all you all run your cats. it's likely most years I put more time on my cats up here than most and I only have to check my points once a year, in fact I have had more cap and rotor failures than points. thehei system sounds cool especially if it uses the gm style cap with the built in coil . the hei with higher voltage and greater space between contacts would be worth the money and time in my opinion.
 

rcc

Member
Don... right on... I have pertronix ignitor in one J5 works just fine, original Points in another, works just fine and the new 251 rebuild will have the pertornix II and not started yet but most likely not worth the extra $'s but I just want to see what the diff may be with the duel spark... not sure I will expect to much more from a 125HP but we will see...
Over the last 15 years the points worked just fine...!
 

rcc

Member
Here is a pic of the one J5 with the Pertronix #1564 ignitor pickup and coil, works real good and was very easy to install maybe 20 min's or so.
 

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rcc

Member
Looking at the stovebolt chrysler distributor, it is a vac advance model, not mechanical as the industrial 251, so you would have to port the carb body for a vac connection.
 

cdog

Member
My rig has a new rochester carb ill look...
How much was the petronix?
I see vintagepowerwagons.com also sells an electronic ignition retrofit for both 3-1/8 and 3-3/8 diameter distributors..115 dollars i beleive...non vacuum advance .
 

rcc

Member
Depending on were you get them,, I just ordered them from Pertonix $140 plus the new Pertronix 40,000 volt coil.
 

rcc

Member
Same, they both use the 1564, on the Pertronix website there is distributor look up page, type in Autolite, IAY-4004-1 the module is 1564 I have one see the pic i put up exact same as yours it has over 200 hrs on it works great. you should also get the 40,000 volt FlameThrower coil from them, it is designed to work with this ignitor, see other pic. If you want to get real fancy, get the ignition relay package and wire it in for perfect setup. It works great with the relay so you do not have a voltage drop from headlights or other stuff turned on. It is not required, just thought I would mention it if you want the best performance from the ignitor.
 

cdog

Member
picture.php



Finally got around to installing the pertronix.
No spark though.....but looking at your pic....it seems your distributor is turned clockwise much further than mine.
In my pic it is turned clockwise as far as it will go....and ideas?
 

rcc

Member
If you removed the distributor, you should try with the rotor pointing the other way, you may be out 180 degrees.
 

cdog

Member
I did not have the distributor out....the previous owner may have...but it was running. Even so I cant turn the body to be anywhere close to look like his regardless of rotor position.
 

rcc

Member
If you didn't take it out then the rotor position is correct. When the engine was timed, it may have been set up with the firing of #1 in the next position of the cap. You need to be sure you have the wires on the coil correctly and the at the cam is seated, and the gap set using the clear plastic gauge provided in the kit.
? is there any spark from any of the plugs, with the plugs out resting (grounded).?
 

cdog

Member
I only have one plug out..
So your saying mine may be timed starting with a different starting cylinder...seems odd....
 

cdog

Member
I guess what im saying ....could the degree tab be attacked in a different location on my distributor? This also seems odd.
 

rcc

Member
No not starting with a different cylinder, with a different distributor cap position. #1 cylinder is always #1, not the same for the distributor. Anyway you didn't remove the distributor so that is not the problem.
I you didn't loosen the degree tab that should not be the problem. My engines run at any setting on the degree tab, adjusted only to get best performance depending on engine wear, altitude, engine knock etc.
If there is no spark at the plug, it must be electrical.
Does the cap snap in and on correctly?
 

cdog

Member
Yes...cap can only go one way...and does pop into place nicely.
Have you jut one machine? Just curious if they are all similar to your pic...or have you seen any that look like mine?
I could be getting spark on another cylinder....but this must be 40degrees advanced compared to yours.
 

rcc

Member
I have 3 J5's, two have #1 on the distributor as per the picture and the other #1 is in a different position. Again, if you didn't remove the distributor, position is not the problem.

Did you remove the "ignition resistor", it is usually mounted behind the seat back on the inside of the engine compartment. This needs to be removed as it lowers the voltage to the coil. New system has this looked after.
Check for 12 Volts at the ignition coil with the key in the run position.
 
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