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Changing Snow and Changing Performance

nutsster

Member
I thought that I would share some thoughts and experiences about operating the C-4 differential in my Thiokol 1402 and my OC-12 in DMC 1200 snow cats over the last couple years. I hope others will add their experience too.

A couple of weeks ago, we received about three to four feet of "Utah" powder on top of about a 18" base. I couldn't wait to operate my DMC 1200 on it after the extensive restoration that I made to it over the last summer. When I made it up to our cabin the following day, I drove it on many of our roads in untouched powder. It was unbelievable, the steering was light and responsive, and the cat ran flawlessly. I must have covered 30 miles that first night. :D
Over the next two weeks, the temps fell to maybe single digits in the day and -20 to -30 at night. The snow was very light and grainy. It compacted very nicely on the roads from all the traffic. Almost too nicely! :smileywac
With the snowmobile and snowcat traffic plus sub zero temps, the roads set up like cement. However, the compacted snow still allowed the grousers to penetrate deep into it for traction. The cold conditions and very hard snow (where compacted) made the steering much more difficult. ( My DMC 1200 has the very agressive 4" grouser that the later Thiokols and LMC snow cats used. ) The extreme traction would require much more steering pressure to complete turns and would also drive the differential temps up dramatically. Some steering became so difficult that the drive sprockets would skip too. However, driving thought fresh uncompacted snow would instantly return the cat to the light steering pressures of the week before (in the fresh powder).
On the hard and grippy snow, it was much easier to make several quick shallow turns then attempt a medium or large turn. It is also very noticable to me that as the differential temp climb, that steering performance drops off dramatically, especially when the oil gets near 170 to 180 degrees. The manual warns ab out exceeding the 180 degrees limit! The C-4 differential doesn't normally have a temp guage or a lot of oil for cooling like the OC-12. I am considering installing one to be able to monitor the oil condition on my smaller cat. :confused2:
I don't have a lot of experience driving hydro-static cats, but have been told that it is the same for them too. My one friend grooms for Deer Valley, and informed me that under some conditions they get the sprockets to skip in turns too.
During this same week I broke the left axle on my Imp 1402 driving on the "hard & grippy" snow. I'm glad it happened near my place instead of 20 miles back in.
That axle was a four lug axle, which I found out was much weaker than the five lug. The flange was also slightly bent from previous abuse that I'm confident had stressed it. The other axle on my cat has the five lug axle already installed. ;)
Please feel free to add your experiences from operating in changing snow conditions!
 

mtntopper

Back On Track
SUPER Site Supporter
nutsster,
What are you using for oil in each of the snow cat rear differentials? Are you running a blade on the DMC 1200? The blade will raise the differential temps significantly. Are you filtering or pumping any of the differential oil or is it just being held static in the differential?

From my experience in an Imp, LMC 1200 and the hydrostatic cats the steering observations you make are correct for the type of snow conditions you are operating in. I have found for the brake steer cats, I like to use several short quick pulls on the sticks for turns if possible. They are easier on the equipment (tracks, sprockets and brake bands) instead of holding the brake for a longer period of time to make the turns and creating heat and jumping of the track.

Hasn't the 1402 has been re powered with a larger horsepower engine. Haven't the tracks also been widened on the 1402. If the tracks are wider and the horsepower is greater than the design was intended, then something must give when torques above engineering specs and designs are created. The axle will probably be the weak link....
:my2cents:
 

Melensdad

Jerk in a Hawaiian Shirt & SNOWCAT Moderator
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
mtntopper said:
I like to use several short quick pulls on the sticks for turns if possible.
Well I am not used to deep snow. The deepest stuff I've been in is only 12" to 18" and our snow is often heavy, crusted over, and usually has either an ice base or an ice coating. But I just turn the steering wheel and mine turns :17875:

I have noticed that the softer the snow the more power that is required when climbing. Again, when we get soft and fluffy snow it usually only lasts for a day or two before we get a crust of ice or crud over the top of it.
 

nutsster

Member
The Imp has 32" tracks and I run the recommended 50wt strait mineral oil in the C-4 rearend (aeroshell 100 ND). I made the grousers with a 1" full lenth paddle too. It does grip much better then the old drop center track, even after I widened it. I'm sure it's increased bit makes it work harder in the hardpacked snow. As for the axle, it was damaged before it snapped. I wasn't totally surprised that it had failed.:eek:

The DMC 1200 has the pump, filter system and cooler. It hasn't approached the 180 degrees max. limit. I would imagine that a blade would increase the temps too. I plan on running a blade on it next winter if I can find one. I need to go and see Bill at SnoTrans, he said he has three to look at.
I'm running the full synthetic engine oil in the rearend of the OC-12. I can't remember the grade, it was recommended by Petersons. ;)
 

mtntopper

Back On Track
SUPER Site Supporter
nutsster said:
I'm running the full synthetic engine oil in the rearend of the OC-12. I can't remember the grade, it was recommended by Petersons. ;)

Interesting that you are running engine oil with the hydraulic pump. Does Peterson Equipment also recommend this oil while using a blade? I have run hydraulic oil in all of my OC12 and have never noticed a brake fade or heat problem as you describe. I have removed the pump, filter system, hoses, controls, and cooler from my 1200 LMC, as I considered them to be potential problems and not necessary if you are not running any additional hydraulic equipment on the cat. I still have the dash gauge and sender for the rear differential. I think I will hook it up to monitor the differential temperature this next summer and see how much heat is generated when operating the snow cat.:eek:
 

nutsster

Member
My DMC 1200 has the hydraulic pump installed and not the cooling pump that some machines had installed. It was set up to add a blade without too much difficulty. It is good to have the filtering system to clean the oil from the brake band material that wears off gradually. When I drive it in fresh snow, the temp never even moves off the lowest reading of 100 degrees. However, if I work it by pulling the drag or drive long distances on grippy hard packed snow, I start to see the temps climb. That's when I notice a loss in performance or effectiveness of the steering levers. Particularly if it raises above 150 degrees. Peterson's say that this is very normal. Some cats like the Thiokol 2100 that ran the very wide tracks and the OC-12 had lots of cooling problems when ran on hard packed snow. They said the rearend had to be rebuilt every season on those machines due to the work load on the steering bands.:eek:
I have seen where some guys run the Unocal HT-4 10 wt oil. This scared Peterson's mechanics to death. I ran it for a short time in my Imp 1402, but didn't notice much difference. It will probably cause premature wear of the brake bands since it's much thinner. If anyone has a lot of experience running it with success, I would like to hear about it.:thumb:
 
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