building a new tractor-winter project

and seeking advice. Picked up a nice running John Deere LUC combine engine; anticipate building a two wheel drive tractor not over 1000 pounds as completed . have a transaxle from an old Cub cadet with 6-12 tires mounted[ag tires]. will this work or should i find a heavier axle? Engine is rated at 9.7 HP @2200rpm -77c.i. Have an old 3 speed trans with a tranfer case mounted from a Scout,but also have old 4 speed truck trans.with granny gear.
thanks in advance,
baldy347

The trans might be your weak spot, unless your tires spin when you try to pull too much. The 4-speed truck tranny, coupled to a high-ratio differential and then reduced gearing to the rear wheels to get your desired wheel speed might be a better option. However, you'll exceed the thousand-pound goal by a few pounds unless you sacrifice structural strength somewhere which isn't a desirable thing.

Have found rear axle from 1/2T. Chevy truck with 4:11 ratio, but hoping to find old jeep with 5:13 ratio.

Sounds like a kewl project Baldy. Please post pics of your progress as you go.

You're on the right track, Baldy. You'll want to get fresh batteries for your calculator so you can figure in diff ratios, wheel sizes, etc. so you can make a final drive setup to give you the desired ground speeds. I'm almost thinking that the 5.13:1 rear end might be almost good enough. You could either couple a 3-speed tranny from a 1/2T pickup behind the 4-speeeder to be able to gear down, or, you could make sprockets on the axle ends of the rear and chain drive your rear wheels with larger sprockets down on the wheels. #60 roller chain would be suggested for that application.
If you're not inclined to gear the final drive down, you might Google Gibson tractors to take a look at the setup they had for driving the transmission. It's simple, but effective and they were dealing with roughly the same hp as you are, though not as much torque.
If you've got access to old Spra-Coups, they used a VW driveline that was chain and sprocket geared to the rear wheels.
As Doc said, keep us informed on your progress and ideas but, most importantly, POST PICS!!!!

just found out that 1850RPM is correct speed for this engine; there is a gear reduction between the clutch and the output shaft 14T. to 48 T.- 540RPM out-Time for more pencil pushing

540 RPM is roughly a quarter of what your tranny is used to spinning at, so, if the vehicle you took it out of was geared for, say, 60 mph, you'd be down to 15. You'd have to see what kinds of ratios you get in 1st, 2nd. 3rd gear to see if your ground speed will be good for what you wan to do with the tractor.

If it's just gonna be a "butt buggy" at shows, you won't have any problems, but if you're actually planning on working it, you need to be assured you're geared properly.

Finally got last of old bearing races out of the gear-case [ they 've been there a while]; will order new bearings next week. as long as i had the case all cleaned up i gave it a nice new paint job - red of course , will cover up that moldy green stuff on the engine when the tractor is finished. Still debating on tricycle or wide-front steering-engine is hand crank so no FEL.
baldy347

pic of gearcase waiting for bearings

and mid 60's 12 GM differential that needs 12 inches removed from each side; these coupled with 6.55:1 granny gear trans should give speeds close to stock Cub Cadet

progress has been made in bits and pieces with much credit going to my brothers and a couple of friends. first are the shortened axles not yet welded.
next a pic of new wheel 16 in. used to be 8 bolt

might even get pics here - if i keep trying

here is pic of narrowed housing 4:56 was actually 3:73 when i got it apart- will compensate at chain reduction

have made small progress ,transmission is mounted as is engine. rear axle measures 39 1/2 " flange to flange. 33'' tall mud tires on back[16" wheels ]- 13" wheels on front

Nice to see you're still working on it. Keep us posted.

finally sees light of day- shed too small and too dark. need to rework front end of frame because tires will scrub
later,baldy347