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Lightbars, Strobes, Rotating lights . . . who has one?
- Thread starter Melensdad
- Start date
BigAl said:
I never even thought about the power draw on the thing until I was talking to a plow truck operator earlier this morning. Each light in a lightbar is going to draw 55 to 100 watts. If they are rotators, then each has its own motor that draws a bit more power. Then there was the directional bar in the back with a row of halogens back there! Yikes! He just stopped in my office and donated a strobe light to my cause so I am going to get this mounted. For my humble needs, it is going to be plenty good enough. Its got a strobe light instead of halogens, no motors, no moving parts. And best of all, I got it free!
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Al, just an update on the energy draw issues . . .
Here is the technical information for my new strobe, it uses a LOT less power than a lightbar!
Here is the technical information for my new strobe, it uses a LOT less power than a lightbar!
824 Multi Strobe Beacon
Medium-profile Double or Quad Flash Strobe
The model 824 family is a medium profile, multi-flash strobe light which can be changed by the customer from double flash to quad flash operation. It features universal mounting, full size 360° Lexan® lens, high efficiency regulated solid state power supply, and heavy duty xenon strobe lamp. DC units have polarity protection and built-in filters to protect against radio interference and spike voltages. AC units are designed to withstand multiple line transient spikes of 6000V without damage. The model 824 strobe features a fully potted, Lexan®, multi-purpose mounting base which is vibration and water resistant, and has a plug-in strobe lamp and photocell which can be activated to automatically reduce intensity during nighttime operation.
Available Colors
Features
Model Description Voltage/Frequency
824–1228 DC strobe with 10” leads 12 – 28VDC
Specifications
Item Description Voltage and Amperage 12-28VDC draws 2.2 to 2.4A @ 12V tapering to 1.2 to 1.4A @ 28V at hi intensity
Power Supply Output 11 Watts 17 joules per double flash
25 joules per quad multi-flash Flash Rate 68 to 72 double flashes per minute
58 to 62 quad multi-flashes per minute Size and Weight 6.75” tall x 5.5 ” dia. x 2.2 lbs ( 133mm x 140mm x 0.9kg )
Medium-profile Double or Quad Flash Strobe
Available Colors
Features
- Universal mounting
- Built-in RFI filters
- Solid state power supply
- Xenon strobe lamp
- Available in amber, blue, clear, green, purple, and red
- 5 year warranty on power supply
- 1 year warranty on lamp
- UL listed (AC models only)
Model Description Voltage/Frequency
824–1228 DC strobe with 10” leads 12 – 28VDC
Specifications
Item Description Voltage and Amperage 12-28VDC draws 2.2 to 2.4A @ 12V tapering to 1.2 to 1.4A @ 28V at hi intensity
Power Supply Output 11 Watts 17 joules per double flash
25 joules per quad multi-flash Flash Rate 68 to 72 double flashes per minute
58 to 62 quad multi-flashes per minute Size and Weight 6.75” tall x 5.5 ” dia. x 2.2 lbs ( 133mm x 140mm x 0.9kg )
Well here is a photo showing my Amber Strobe, mounted on the Snow Trac. 
and obviously NO SNOW anywhere.
Hey Bob, even I have a little snow, darn little but enough I was able to run the Snotrac down the road and back. 
Looks like we may get a bunch of snow before the week is finished. I will try and send some further east.
I finally got the dual strobes installed and working on the Snotrac. I also mounted the battery disconnect switch under the front seat in the little storage compartment. The Optima battery is now mounted in a box under the passenger front seat.
Looks like we may get a bunch of snow before the week is finished. I will try and send some further east.I finally got the dual strobes installed and working on the Snotrac. I also mounted the battery disconnect switch under the front seat in the little storage compartment. The Optima battery is now mounted in a box under the passenger front seat.
Anyone have experience with self contained strobes? I'm thinking of mounting 2 of these 4" round recessed flashers in the rear wall of my Snow Trac. Any insight on this type of strobe would be appreciated. Since I drive my Snow Trac on and along the road I want to make sure no car runs up on me from behind.
http://www.awdirect.com/catalog.cfm?dest=itempg&itemid=17147&secid=68&linkon=subsection&linkid=269
http://www.awdirect.com/catalog.cfm?dest=itempg&itemid=17147&secid=68&linkon=subsection&linkid=269
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Junkman
Extra Super Moderator
Those pictured are not strobe.......they are LED's, which are the latest thing. They are very good, and very energy efficient. There are a lot of them out there today, and the choice is endless. I suggest that you consider checking out the lamp manufacturers sites to find out what is available and for sizes. Do a Google search for truck lighting. That should bring up all the manufacturers such as Peterson, Truck Lite, etc. Also Check out Whelan Emergency Lighting. If you need help with getting Whelan products I know 2 dealers for them...... one in Michigan, and one in CT. I think that what would be best for you is school bus lighting size lamps.
What did you do with the light bar that you were given????
What did you do with the light bar that you were given????
B_Skurka said:
Bob, I picked up some LED type marker/taillights and did a little test. The results made me use standard bulb lights instead of the LED lights. I ran both on a spare battery in the shop and did find the LED to be much brighter but it did not create the heat of a regular bulb light. The problem becomes the snow build up on the LED light versus the regular bulb that will generate more heat and melt the snow off the lens. This can be a real problem on the back of the snow cat. It does not matter how bright it is, if you can not see it through the build up of snow it is useless. Go ahead and check out your lamps and test the temperature and see if may be they run hotter than the ones I tested. Let us know the outcome..
Bill
Yup Dave, these are self contained strobe lights, they do not need a controller box to flash. I figured I could hook them up to the switch that controls the roof top strobe. We seem to open the top roof vent freqently when we drive, that blocks the direct view of the front mounted strobe so I figure something on the rear would be good. Being self contained, it makes wiring cheap and easy.DaveNay said:
Bill, if you look at my photo below you will see the standard tail lamps are covered in snow. They were not needed out in the field, but I when I finally turned them on up at the road I'm not sure if they would have melted the snow off anyway.mtntopper said:
My logic for the recessed mounted strobe units is that recessed units will give very little for snow to grab on to. Also, the location I've been thinking of is located on a large flat surface area away from the edge so it will be away from the snow build up pattern that is thrown off the tracks.
But I'm certainly open to other suggestions.
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Bob,
I "think" the rear upper lights I mounted on Yetti are basically the same as those . I have mine tied into a alternating flasher unit ,same as the police cars have now . They also control the front lites too. I was impressed with the amount of light they throw out but did not think about Bill's test of the "lights working cooler and covering up with snow" .
One thing I "now" do know is mount the lights as high as possible for better visalbility .
I "think" the rear upper lights I mounted on Yetti are basically the same as those . I have mine tied into a alternating flasher unit ,same as the police cars have now . They also control the front lites too. I was impressed with the amount of light they throw out but did not think about Bill's test of the "lights working cooler and covering up with snow" .
One thing I "now" do know is mount the lights as high as possible for better visalbility .
Allen, one thing I have done at night on the road is turn on the rear facing lights, they are plenty bright but I don't really want to blind a car behind me, I just want them to know I am there. I figured some flashers would solve the problem?BigAl said:
Also, you have a power supply for your flashers, and I don't have one of those. If I do something other than a 'self contained' type flasher unit then it would complicate the wiring, require another switch, and add the cost of a power supply controller box. I suppose I could mount another roof top strobe behind the sunroof, but I was hoping to put up a small cargo rack there.
BigAl said:
The top lights at the rear of cab are amber front lens and red rear lens standard truck style dual tail/stop lights. There are also red marker lamps on the back of the bed of the 1200 LMC above the tracks. They were not turned on but they will melt the snow and give some visible sign but not like the high mounted lights turned on in the pictures below. I think the top mounted lights are the key to highly visible safe lighting on the snow cats. I have also installed a flasher in line for the lights to function as hazard flashers if needed.
All snowcats regardless of use should have some type of flashing or strobing lights. EVERY single Snowcat course I have been through empahasizes how critical it is to run you strobes (or flashers). You are running a very large and in some cases very heavy beef jerky maker! If and gGod forbid you run someone over (even if its there fault) you will most likely chop them up into raw chunks of meat. The best case is you will horribly cut them up into huge chunks of almost beef jerky stirps. My point is this. If you have your lights on plus you flashers or strobes then its pretty herd to miss you. You have now done everything you can so people can see you. If and this is more likely the case in my opinion some idiot on a snow mobile who has been drinking and running his brand new 200 HP snowmobile and come blasting around a corner and hits you whos fault is it? Who was going 10 MPH and had all his visual beacons on? Now same scenario but you without any lights on? Also any attorney worth his salt will call every snowcat school around and simply ask what are the rules when you are driving your snowcat? At that point he will hire every instructor he can get his hands on and they will be "Expert Wittnesses" and that will be that. So get some type of strobe and run it when your out driving around.
POPWER SUPPLY. Now here is a big deal. Snow Tracs in general are pretty old with 1960 and such stock VW fuse blocks ect. Usually there are only 8 places to run some type of equipment. You might have one spare place to run a light. But what is your alternator putting out? Some still have the generators. OK here is a simple way to find out what size alternator you need or need to upgrade to. A 95 amp alternator will support UP TO 1140 WATTS. To figure this out simply do the following (this will work on 6 volt 12 volt and 24 volt systems) VOLTS X AMPS = WATTS. In other words you have a 12 volt system (12 volts X) you have a 95 Amp alternator (12 volts X 95 amp alternator) 12 x 95 = 1140 usable watts. Now start to add up what every component uses. IE Driving lights 100 watts. ect ect. Now to be safe I build in a saftey margin. I simply have a 25% cushion (this will more than cover any surge when the component is first turned on) if Total watts used and what I am producing. To simplify this lets say we have 1000 Watts are alternator is putting out. I will only have up to 750 watts being used if everything is on at the same time. That includes starter, coil, radios, wipers ect ect. As you can see a stock VW setup in a Snow Trac and alot of other snowcats just are not up to porducing alot of juice. Now start adding light bars and you will quickly be stranded somwhere you dont want to be. Most VW generators put out up to 50 Amps. When I build my set up I will go into detail on how I will address my extra amperage need. Hope this has helped.
POPWER SUPPLY. Now here is a big deal. Snow Tracs in general are pretty old with 1960 and such stock VW fuse blocks ect. Usually there are only 8 places to run some type of equipment. You might have one spare place to run a light. But what is your alternator putting out? Some still have the generators. OK here is a simple way to find out what size alternator you need or need to upgrade to. A 95 amp alternator will support UP TO 1140 WATTS. To figure this out simply do the following (this will work on 6 volt 12 volt and 24 volt systems) VOLTS X AMPS = WATTS. In other words you have a 12 volt system (12 volts X) you have a 95 Amp alternator (12 volts X 95 amp alternator) 12 x 95 = 1140 usable watts. Now start to add up what every component uses. IE Driving lights 100 watts. ect ect. Now to be safe I build in a saftey margin. I simply have a 25% cushion (this will more than cover any surge when the component is first turned on) if Total watts used and what I am producing. To simplify this lets say we have 1000 Watts are alternator is putting out. I will only have up to 750 watts being used if everything is on at the same time. That includes starter, coil, radios, wipers ect ect. As you can see a stock VW setup in a Snow Trac and alot of other snowcats just are not up to porducing alot of juice. Now start adding light bars and you will quickly be stranded somwhere you dont want to be. Most VW generators put out up to 50 Amps. When I build my set up I will go into detail on how I will address my extra amperage need. Hope this has helped.
Well it is very pretty Bob, would go nicely with all those flamingos or whatever inside your cab. I had an amber flasher on the top of the tall cab on my snowtrac as it was ex-electricity board I suppose they wanted to know where it was. As the tall cab was removed, so was the amber flasher and I have no plans for replacing in on the new top - who ever heard of the marines advertising their presence?
Mike, one of the advantages to the LED strobes that I posted the link to is that they only draw 0.26 AMPs each when they are on.Snowcat Operations said:
When I started to really look into strobes, lightbars, etc. It quickly became obvious that old style "rotators" are power hogs, "strobes" are pretty efficient, and "LED strobes" are super efficient but come at a pretty high price.
Adding 2 of the LED strobes from AW Direct will only draw 1/2 AMP total, and they will probably much better attention getters than flipping on the rear lights while drawing only a fraction of the power.
These LED flashing body lights provide 72 quad flashes per minute and draw just .26 amps. Lights flash independently, or multiple l ights can be strung together to operate as one unit. Unique "reflector cell technology" enhances brightness even in full sunlight.
Bob I completely agree with you. LEDS are fantastic! They last forever and hardly draw any power. They did a light bulb test with equivalant of tens years of touning on and off every kinda light bulb they could find. The only one left that still worked was the LED. They are also shock resistant. For brake lights tail lights turn signals interior lights ect they should all be LEDs. Most will evn work with 6V 12V or 24 V. They dont care. BigAl ran a Police car wobler (thats we use to call them) into his tail lights ect. It creates a better effect than just the hazard lights. I havent decided what route I will go with but some type of external mounted strobe led is what I am thinking. Something small though. That with my lights on and my snow dune flag up should be pretty visable. Hell they even make a vehicle flag pole mounted led light that I will run. Anyway great article you started!
So here is another question.
I was thinking that AMBER would be the correct lens choice, but since these are to be REAR FACING, is it legal to use RED FLASHERS? I can't find a RED LED self contained flasher, but AW Direct does sell a stud mounted red lens self contained flasher. It is a traditional strobe, uses more power, but I still think it would work well for me.
So I guess I now have 2 questions.
I was thinking that AMBER would be the correct lens choice, but since these are to be REAR FACING, is it legal to use RED FLASHERS? I can't find a RED LED self contained flasher, but AW Direct does sell a stud mounted red lens self contained flasher. It is a traditional strobe, uses more power, but I still think it would work well for me.
So I guess I now have 2 questions.
- Where to mount a couple lights (recessed or stud mounted)
- Is the recessed mount location I picked reasonable, or too low?
- If I go with stud mount units, where should they be mounted?
- Should I use Red or Amber rear facing flashers?
Since you drive yours on the street I would use the Amber color. Recessed to me are the cleanest looking install. I would mount them as high up as looks good and is still visable. The location you have picked seems very logical to me.
That would be perfect! Whats the ebay store?
Bob - In most states, it's illegal to have clear/white lights facing backwards when on a road.B_Skurka said:
I would check the legality of using red flashers. If they're alternating or look too much like an emergency vehicle, the red ones may not be legal.B_Skurka said:
Snowcat Operations said:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/TC-D...7QQihZ016QQcategoryZ33713QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Eric
Thanks Eric.
For what it is worth, these lights cannot be flush mounted. I have asked the seller for a photo of the rear of this unit to see the mounting system.
Here is that image. It appears to be a standard stud mount system.
Further, in addition to the WHITE + AMBER pattern it can actually be ordered in any combination of RED, BLUE, GREEN, AMBER, or WHITE. So for the rear of the vehicle it could be ordered in RED/RED or AMBER/AMBER. As for RED flashers on the rear, "hazard" lights are RED on the rear of a vehicle, and AMBER on the FRONT of a vehicle.
Here is that image. It appears to be a standard stud mount system.
Further, in addition to the WHITE + AMBER pattern it can actually be ordered in any combination of RED, BLUE, GREEN, AMBER, or WHITE. So for the rear of the vehicle it could be ordered in RED/RED or AMBER/AMBER. As for RED flashers on the rear, "hazard" lights are RED on the rear of a vehicle, and AMBER on the FRONT of a vehicle.
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Yes that would work. Red or Yellow. I would go with yellow but thats just personal preference. Youi could mount the through your gutter rail like Mtntopr did with his work lights.