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601 Driving lessons

wesley

Member
I've owned and driven M29 weasels for years, but I've had my 601 for only a short time and have some questions about driving. First off, starting from a stand still. Since there is no low range, is 1st gear a creeper? On a broken trail I have no problem starting in 2nd. Next question regard shifting. Like the weasels, I find it diffical to shift to higher gears without loosing momentum. The weasels were terrible for this, unless you were going downhill with a tailwind on hardpacked surface you almost never could make the shift without bogging down. No to mention the location of the shift lever ment a cup might be in order. I find the 601 shifter a little less awkward but again it seems I loose momentum with it too. This is while operating on an unpacked trail or road. Next is steering. When driving down a curvy road or trail where small steering adjustments are needed, I tend to get jerky sudden reactions to the leavers. I don't know if it's just that way, or if my brakes need adjustment or hydralic problems. Lastly, when backing I find the steering is not as effective. I read the manual but it doesn't really cover this. :unsure:
 

Mainer

Boggie likes our museum
SUPER Site Supporter
Oh, this is all wrong... did you buy that thang from Boggie? :hammer:
OK, jesting aside, welcome to 601 ownership! :clap:
What you describe is normal with exception of the jerkyness and the reverse effectiveness.... there should be no jerkyness and steering in reverse should be just as effective. I imagine you have an issue with the slave cylinders or possibly air in the hydraulic lines... I wouldn't think it such a brake issue but never know.
First thing to do is take that 601 and send it right back to the seller COD... or better yet just send it to the Mainer and we'll give you your money back. ;)
 

wesley

Member
What is the procedure for beading the brakes on a 601? What type of brake fliud is recomended? Keep in mind I'm doing this outside in remote conditions. I have restored several military vehicles and I find it strange that the military never wrote a TM (tech manual) for the 600 series. They had tech manuals for everything from vehicles, and guns even wristwatches.
 

weatherby

Member
Wesley....The manual that I sent you explains how to bleed the slave cylinders on page 17. However it should be done with two people and they don't mention that in the manual. As far as steering goes.....what you are explaining does not sound that unusual. When I steer mine ether forward or reverse makes a big difference on what my tracks have to move, such as snow piling up along side of the tracks and how much track surface is in contact with the ground, the less contact with the ground the easier it will turn. On hard pack there should be no problem steering. In a nut shell, it makes all the difference on what kind of conditions the tracks are in as far as how it turns (it can very greatly from hard pack to soft snow). Your adjustment rods that go through your steering cylinders should only move out a 1/8" when you pull on your steering lever when your brake bands are adjusted correctly and that also will take two people to check that adjustment. As far as shifting the 601...It will take practice to hit the gears correctly considering how the shifter is located.

If you wish you can call me and I can talk in more detail....I talk much better than I can type.:whistling:
 

MNoutdoors RIP

Gone But Not Forgotten
GOLD Site Supporter
a couple of notes, on your machine it needed new sprockets and with the ones it had it will be prone to sprocket popping or slipping which even with a new one in rough terrain they will do that in a hard turn in the mud or deep material. they are made to slip in a hard turn. yes we have found that in reverse in deep material you will loose some of your steer ability. you are turning the brake drum opposite the direction of the pull from the slave cylinder. this is not as prevalent on machines with final drives. when we test machine we are buying backing up is the least amount of turn you will get on a machine with aging bands or other issues.
 

wesley

Member
Just got back from camp and driving the new cat. Well topping off the brake fluid made a huge difference. The other thing is just getting used to driving it. I do notice a intermitant skip on the right track due to the bad sproket. It isnt bad and I will remedy that when my tax money comes in. One thing I noticed is the gas pedal is real flaky. There isn't much travel to it and you have to give it the right touch, hard to do in heavy Baffin boots. I will say, it steers much better than my weasel! The whole family likes ridding in it, especially my dog.:biggrin:
 

Snowcat Operations

Active member
SUPER Site Supporter
Wesley. On your gas pedal assembly there is a shaft that goes into the tub or engine housing. Before it goes into the engine compartment there is a hole on the shaft. Purchase some KROIL penetrating lube and squirt some in there. The all around any seams or openings on the shaft. Lube all your linkage as well. Hit it a few time with the KROIL for two days. Reach in and work the linkage to loosen and help lube it up. I found my linkage a bit stiff and finally realized it wasnt going all the way. It was stiff. Now shes all smooth! Good luck!
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
another product you can get from aircraft supply stores is ouse milk bu far the worlds best penetraiting oil it will free up any metal rhat is corroded together and another product for summmer storage is corrosion -x or acf 50 spray that on to prevent corrosion.
 
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