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IMP Slave units

jp11

New member
How ugly is ugly?

It had obviously been leaking fluid by. Pretty rusted. I'm sure it will clean up with some honing.. but I've only seen repair kits at around 55 bucks plush shipping. Even that is from sites claiming New old stock. No pictures, just a part number. No luck at all at the local NAPA.

Leaning toward just getting some nice rebuilds from Snowcat Pat. Yes, it's a little more money, but they I'd have something more repairable and not have to mess with these.

thoughts?

JP
 

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sno-drifter

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
There is a guy in Seattle I think who rebuilds master and wheel cyls with thin stainless steel and you are done with rusted hyd. brake problems like these. I can find contact info if you are interested.
 

jp11

New member
I think with my time available, and cost for original parts (those rebuild kits are rare, even looking all over) that I'm just going to swap out. Pat can re do these for the next guy to use. I really think I COULD clean these up, and probably get the parts counter to find me a cup that would fit.. and so on. But at this point I still have several other little things I want to address on the cat. SO I'll take the exchange. It will cost me a couple hundred dollars more. But it's a bolt on and go solution. I'll rebuild the masters (parts readily available) while these swap places with the shiny ones in ID.

JP
 

turbinator62

Active member
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SUPER Site Supporter
They do get ugly. I rebuilt mine with 4130 aircraft tubing after boring the cylinder out on a lathe. http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=63147&page=5

See post 89 to 99.

The cup is available from NAPA, United PN 14451, but that is the only internal part I could find. They cost less than $2 each. The rubber bellows on mine were like new. I think Nik replaced them but I don't know wher he got them. they are probably a generic part. My pistons were serviceable, except for the ring, which I was able to make. Most of these are too far gone for honing. My total cost to rebuild the slaves was about 20 bucks. I did eventually find new ones for about $540 each.
http://www.powerbrake-drivetrain.com/servlet/the-845/SLAVE-CYLINDER-WAGNER-/Detail The slaves are clutch cylinders from early 60's vintage International trucks.

Master cylinders are available on Ebay. Just search for 1966 Ford Econoline van master cylinder. You will have to grind or machine off part of the casting to clear the levers. They are Wagner PN 36313. See post 100.

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...=1966+ford+econoline+master+cylinder&_sacat=0

It is not worth trying to rebuild the masters when you can get a new one for that price.

Good luck.
 
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jp11

New member
Thanks.

I picked up two new ones for 136 bucks shipped to me. Can't beat that I guess. I had a couple rebuild kits on order. We'll see if I get stuck with those. Pat should have my slaves today to evaluate. Guess everything new is a better way to go. How much work was it to machine off that corner? I guess I could bring an old one to the machine shop and just tell them to match it. Doesn't look like it's a critical size, you're just making room for the handles to be able to tilt forward, right?

Thanks
Jason
 

turbinator62

Active member
Site Supporter
SUPER Site Supporter
Chances are that if your slaves were that bad, so were the masters and they would not be rebuildable anyway. I had bought rebuild kits for mine before I took them apart. The kits are now in my spares box.

You can grind or machine the sides to clear the handles. I machined them only because it is cleaner, faster, I have a milling machine and I'm lazy. It is not critical. That area just needs to be a little narrower than the pivot boss so the handles move freely to the forward stops. See my post 100 as noted above. The old cylinder is in the lower part of the picture. There were a lot different castings used so yours may look slightly different. Look at the old ones and modify the new ones similarly.

The width of the lever mount boss also varies. You may need new bushings. Mr. Gasket PN 9853 (NAPA) alternator bushings work well. You will have to shorten them. A lathe is handy for that. Make them about .005 - .010" longer than the width of the boss. You want the clevis bolt of the levers to clamp tightly to the bushing so the only motion is in the bushing and boss with no looseness between the lever, bolts, and bushing.
http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=58427&page=4 See Post 66

I would also recommend changing the hoses to the slaves. I had one break. (fortunately it was in the shop at the time.) The hoses flex due to the rocking of the transaxle and the short steel tube between the hose and slave had fatigued. See my post #160

Good Luck
 

jp11

New member
Thanks for the tips. I had the hoses on the bench waiting for the next trip to the hydraulic shop. Was planning braided lines like you did.

Was a whole lot of slop in the master/handle interface. Glad I'll be able to fix that up.

Back at work. Lots of overtime today.. so that helps with the IMP bills. :)

JP
 
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