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Tucker transfer case chain

Track Addict

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Anyone know where I can get a chain for the transfer case?

Now that you guys have me tearing the tucker apart time to fix the leaky seals and replace the chain.

Anything I need to know inside here?
 

Track Addict

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Got the case out. Going to
Change the seals and maybe replace the chain which should be Morse Hyvo HV406.

Any tips for me on what I will find inside or what look for?
 

Track Addict

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Running out of steam . Do I run it and rebuild next year? Still need to build drag fix trackster and his ski
 

sno-drifter

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I don't think you are going to find a chain in your transfer case. Should be input shaft and drive gear, idler shaft and idler gear, and output shaft and gear. Go out and but 20 more blade screw drivers to use to pry the two halves of the case apart. Keep the gap between the two even as you split the case. Bearing nos. will be on the bearings and the same with the seals.
 

Track Addict

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Put it up on bench today. Not leaking bad enough to do this year. Next year. Your description above convinced me.

Thanks for the realitu check!
 

sno-drifter

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As long is it is on the bench, why not change the seals? Not a hard or long job and if the backlash in the gears seems good, you may be fine for a long time. Worst thing you would have to do is put a stainless steel Speedi-Sleave on the yokes if there is wear or rust. Put a magnetic drain plug in every pipe plug hole you can find to see if there is metal floating in there and it gets the metal out from the gears and bearings. I put them in all fluid housings as well as the engine crank case.
 

Track Addict

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So looking at this if I just undo the lower. Castles and I they slide off like the input shaft?

If so seal change is easy. Everything feels real tight with no play.
 

sno-drifter

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Yup, worst case, you may need to use a two jaw puller to remove the yokes. Or be a caveman and tap off with a hammer and mess up your paint job.
 

jask

Member
if it feels tight pull the seals and drain it ...check the shaft for wear,,, new seal and/or sleeves and keep it simple... sensibly :)
 

Track Addict

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Will do. I thought there was a chain but now that I am looking at it gears. Seals are on order. National 50092 cross to Napa 18899. Also got a new u joints. The ujoint from the tranny to the transfer was a little difficult but thanks to the original tucker build sheet part number was there!
 

Track Addict

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Got the nuts off and yoke. Front drive had silicon under washer behind castle nut. Is that a leak point ? Top and back had none. I
Guess fluid could work up the splines and out eventually?
 

tom

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Had to do the same to my transfer case and rear pumpkin last spring. My mechanic prefers the bronze hammer method for yoke removal. He had me silicone the washers against leakage up the spline..fwiw.
 

Track Addict

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Yokes slipped right off. I will add silicon behind the bottom two. The top one has no washer or nut just sits on and the transmission keeps it from sliding. will add some there as well.
 

sno-drifter

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I would not put silicone on the input yoke as it is the slip mechanism for the very little movement that frame flex produces. The silicon could possibly be pumped back into the case and it is not good to run it through bearings. Use some high pressure grease and call it good. Easy to out smart yourself, been that, done there.
 

Track Addict

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What do we know about the 4 bolts that hold case in. Mine are full thread drilled and safety wire tied but the threads are beat up top because of no shoulder on bolt Case threads are good.

What is proper setup? Seems like hole in case can bottom so not bolt can't be too long. Should have a shoulder which means bolt needs to be cut. Grade 8 Bolt torque? Lock washer and wire?
 

Mill666er

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Just putting seals on my 542 and the four pair of bolts had a lock plate with the corners bent over the bolt heads. All 8 threaded holes in case are thru holes. Mine also had a tube of blue silicone squeezed into the two fixed driven yokes and nothing in the slip driver yoke. Anyone seen this thing filed with ATF? The Frame had a sticker specifying 80w-90. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1412732597.989414.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1412732616.158971.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1412732649.073081.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1412732665.020176.jpg
 

Track Addict

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Nice engineering. Looks like you can change bearings without splitting case. Bore is threaded retainer threads in and locks with set screw.
 

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