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THIOKOL/LMC/DMC Technical Issues Forum Technical repair issues & questions for Thiokol/DMC/LMC

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Old 03-22-2019, 05:41 PM
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Default Electrical problems with the LMC1200

Started having electrical problems in the 1200. Some of the fuse holders were getting too hot and melting things. They weren't overloaded. The rivets had loosened over time and the connections were poor causing excessive resistance.

I wanted to update it with ATC style blade fuses and keep it in the the same location.

https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-H849601...a-523116156236

I found a Hella 8 gang holder that would fit. The height was an issue but I figured I could use low profile fuses. Nope. Those only come in mini size and wouldn't fit. But the regular mini would. I put it all together and it worked great. Can even put the cover on. Now everything works again and the magic smoke has stopped leaking out of the wires.
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Old 03-22-2019, 06:30 PM
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Default Re: Electrical problems with the LMC1200

I should have call you when I did my wiring. it looks good
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Old 03-22-2019, 06:31 PM
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Default Re: Electrical problems with the LMC1200

Magic smoke is legal in Washington now right
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Old 03-22-2019, 06:41 PM
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Default Re: Electrical problems with the LMC1200

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Originally Posted by MNoutdoors View Post
Magic smoke is legal in Washington now right
I know...
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Old 03-22-2019, 07:33 PM
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Default Re: Electrical problems with the LMC1200

this is a picture of pete on the right with two other officers from our last outing together.
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Old 03-23-2019, 02:21 PM
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Default Re: Electrical problems with the LMC1200

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Originally Posted by MNoutdoors View Post
Magic smoke is legal in Washington now right

and the canadian side too ! I always giggle when the border cops ask me if I have any which is an inconvenient inapropriate reflex
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Old 03-23-2019, 05:06 PM
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Default Re: Electrical problems with the LMC1200

I'm going to chine in with my 2cents.


be cautious with using solder as the buss connection. That 30 amp circuit is able to get warm. It doesn't take much to get solder to a plastic state where it can creep. Then it becomes cyclic where the hotter it gets the less it conducts which causes more heat.....


CT
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Old 03-23-2019, 05:37 PM
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Default Re: Electrical problems with the LMC1200

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Originally Posted by Cidertom View Post
I'm going to chine in with my 2cents.
be cautious with using solder as the buss connection. That 30 amp circuit is able to get warm. It doesn't take much to get solder to a plastic state where it can creep. Then it becomes cyclic where the hotter it gets the less it conducts which causes more heat.....
CT

Good observation, to continue on that theme --- what would happen when 90 amps flowed on that left hand wire ?
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Old 03-23-2019, 07:22 PM
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Default Re: Electrical problems with the LMC1200

The original fuse block had a soldered bus. It worked for 31 years. And that's not what failed.
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Old 03-26-2019, 06:43 PM
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Default Re: Electrical problems with the LMC1200

Close ups of the factory wiring. I agree that solder isn't the best. I think a solid strip of copper with the connector screwed down would have been far better. I ran the cat yesterday for about 4 hours and all the circuits were fine. I touched all the connectors and none were warm. That's with all the lights on.
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Old 03-28-2019, 11:12 PM
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Default Re: Electrical problems with the LMC1200

That's the same type fuse holder I used in the imp. I used two 6 circuit holders and made the holes in the tabs bigger and soldered the bus wire through the holes. It has worked fine for 6 years now. I used two 6 circuit fuse holders but the one on the right is split 3x3. 6 circuits on accessories, 3 on ignition and 3 on battery. I have a lot of electrical stuff to run.
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Old 03-28-2019, 11:35 PM
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Default Re: Electrical problems with the LMC1200

That's a great idea. Wish I'd thought of that.
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Old 03-29-2019, 09:20 AM
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Default Re: Electrical problems with the LMC1200

to cider toms point.....

I had a bad experience in a 2100 this winter. I believe the factory engineers may have used silver solder or something more substantial that 60/40 malleable solder.

Tight clean connections will never draw heat.
a mouse nest can stress out a fan motor causing the motor run beyond slip which makes for a slow build of current, (pronounced heat) the temp rise is minimal, you won't feel it as it is very local to the failure. as the nonferrous material work hardens from the cycles of heating it becomes what you experienced. ( a localized hot spot)

I was out with a electrically distressed machine that had some expert repair to the wiring by a previous owner. ( that was sarcasm)

Those poorly executed CRIMP and SOLDER connections became compromised due to a Ice scrapper that had slipped down into the heater box dragging the fan down and causing some distress on the circuit, by the time I figured out what was going on, I was without heat........ ( that ice scrapper fell in there long ago )

a emergency field repair suitable for a reality show was in order, I made a call into the compound to let my wife know I was somewhat in a uncomfortable situation got some help moving in my direction.

thiokol 2100 heaters are not much to start with, but having some repair stuff along, combined with the ability to deploy them provided me the ability to only have a little frost bite on the back of my right calf and the tops of both hands.

For what ever this comment is worth, the national electrical code prohibits circuits that rely on solder only. they must be mechanically made first then soldered.
Turbinators connections are an example of this. the pig tail and t tap are wire twisting procedures that are made to be soldered.
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Old 03-29-2019, 11:18 AM
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Default Re: Electrical problems with the LMC1200

I used to hold a Solder Certification card for Nuclear, weapons, and aircraft when I worked for the Navy. 2 week school. They were real picky about that stuff. Especially the nuclear inspectors. Turret posts had to be between 1 1/2 and 1 3/4 turns with a 1/8" tail. No more, no less.

Unless you really want to change it, it will probably be ok. Make sure there is plenty of solder on the tabs and the wire is well wetted and flowed into the stranding.

I've actually had more problems with bad crimps than soldering.
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