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Snow Trac replacement BRONZE drive sprockets

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
I think the idea has merit. However, like the things I hard surface, it only works well if the parent part is only slightly worn. Once real wear happens, the amount of fill is going to cause stress failures and catastrophic failure. I've given thought to doing this once I have had enough wear to have flipped the sprockets and worn the reverse side. But before the overall shape is gone.
 

Moosemeat

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
I've got one sprocket in hand and am heading to the prop/welding shop. Ill let you guys know how it turns out. I'm still looking for a recommendation on who to send my engine and transmission too if you've got any suggestions. Gotta say thanks to Steve in Anchorage for all the advise and hospitality. Like to hear from others in Alaska.
 

Moosemeat

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
https://www.germantransaxle.com/ is a great shop. they have done a few st transmissions. And from what I can tell, are the shop that other places send transmissions to. In Bend, Oregon.
Thanks for the reply. I just got through reading all the sprocket posts from the last 5 years. Sounds like some serious thought has gone into the acquisition of new ones. I've got a 2 band machine in re-build now. Plenty of time to look at all. I'll check on the plastic ones since I'm here in Alaska and try to get some from Bombi1 as well. Thanks again for the link.
 
Thanks for the reply. I just got through reading all the sprocket posts from the last 5 years. Sounds like some serious thought has gone into the acquisition of new ones. I've got a 2 band machine in re-build now. Plenty of time to look at all. I'll check on the plastic ones since I'm here in Alaska and try to get some from Bombi1 as well. Thanks again for the link.
Hi Guys, I am expecting a set UHDM sprockets (early style) to be delivered this week for my 4 band trac-master . I will see if I can get a pic posted before install. I asked the machinist to crank out a few extra sets in case anyone is interested. I had a hard time finding any options so decided to have a set of prototypes cut for mine. Send me a pm if interested (prices are not confirmed yet but they at least an option). Cheers, CR
 

georgeofdesert

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Not BRONZE but this is the latest discussion I found. Pics are of moly/nylon sprockets with history showing about 8 yrs. They were uselessly reversed by me when I got the machine. Had some life left in the teeth but the webs were worn below the height of the spiral rib on the snow guard, shifting the growser contact point off of the plastic and onto metal. The snow guard was getting pushed around in its own orbit.


The grey colored material is the nylon md placed on a bronze aftermarket sprocket.
The countersunk heads were placed on the inboard side to use the full thickness of the plastic and still clear the bearing housing pin. I am stealing this idea.
Whittiling replacements out of hdpe.
Thanks to all for the knowledge.
 

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nwerring

Member
Just thought I would write an update on how the UHMW sprockets I made are doing on the Snow Trac.

I had them made as thick as possible with the thought that a larger contact area would make them more resistant to wear.
A problem appeared because they were actually a bit to wide, and the sprocket contact the rubber track and try to «jump» over the cleat. We are still trying to see what is going on, but one solution might be to make the sprockets tapered. We will try that for now and see if it helps. Another solution is to make them thinner, more like the original bronse ones..
 

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georgeofdesert

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Any chance of removing some plastic material from the mounting surface on the inside? If the grouser plates will allow it maybe then the sprockets can be run a little closer together.
 

300 H and H

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Just thought I would write an update on how the UHMW sprockets I made are doing on the Snow Trac.

I had them made as thick as possible with the thought that a larger contact area would make them more resistant to wear.
A problem appeared because they were actually a bit to wide, and the sprocket contact the rubber track and try to «jump» over the cleat. We are still trying to see what is going on, but one solution might be to make the sprockets tapered. We will try that for now and see if it helps. Another solution is to make them thinner, more like the original bronse ones..
Just taper the tips of the teeth, and leave it wide at the web between them might work. Leaving the web wide I believe will make them last longer.
This year I installed the North Pole Alaska castings I have on mine. The worn ones show quite a bit of the web had worn down, not to the snow guard ring, but getting close.
The Alaska sprockets I think might well have been the last set they cast for a two band machine, as shortly there after they closed up shop. I have to wonder if anyone up in the great white North in Alaska has ever found the pattern they were using for making the molds. At one time I know there were some people looking for them.
Keep us posted on your progress...

Regards, Kirk
 

3512b

Junior Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Just taper the tips of the teeth, and leave it wide at the web between them might work. Leaving the web wide I believe will make them last longer.
This year I installed the North Pole Alaska castings I have on mine. The worn ones show quite a bit of the web had worn down, not to the snow guard ring, but getting close.
The Alaska sprockets I think might well have been the last set they cast for a two band machine, as shortly there after they closed up shop. I have to wonder if anyone up in the great white North in Alaska has ever found the pattern they were using for making the molds. At one time I know there were some people looking for them.
Keep us posted on your progress...

Regards, Kirk
I had a friend in Fairbanks look for the place and it closed up and could no info found. I be headed north in a couple of weeks to pick up my other Cat if you can pm the Adress I look around a bit more. From what I heard the casting were made from a sprocket and not a pattern so the sprocket pitch was a bit off. steve at CSI plastic in Wasilla can make em out of the plastic
 

300 H and H

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
I had a friend in Fairbanks look for the place and it closed up and could no info found. I be headed north in a couple of weeks to pick up my other Cat if you can pm the Adress I look around a bit more. From what I heard the casting were made from a sprocket and not a pattern so the sprocket pitch was a bit off. steve at CSI plastic in Wasilla can make em out of the plastic
The only issue I had was the inside tabs that hold snow guard were to small of a diameter to support the guard ring assembly.
This was cured by a rolling mill rolling a piece of steel just thick enough to fill the gap. No welding required, just a round spacer ring from a band of rolled steel.
I got my sprocket's nearly 10 years ago. Not sure I have the address any more unfortunately. A trip to a local coffee shop might yield that info from a North Pole resident....

Regards, Kirk
 

georgeofdesert

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Can't be wider than the wheel guides. Mine were, slightly, for a while. . Pic shows "scallops" on web where the wheel guides ran. Also gnawed on the belt between the grousers.

Pic of the 4 sprockets impressed me with how the composite lube worked well on the teeth but the base material didn't like being hammered as in the web area.

Mine is a 2 band, the I.D. of the guard ring 13 7/8? Haven't seen that anywhere.
 

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300 H and H

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Can't be wider than the wheel guides. Mine were, slightly, for a while. . Pic shows "scallops" on web where the wheel guides ran. Also gnawed on the belt between the grousers.

Pic of the 4 sprockets impressed me with how the composite lube worked well on the teeth but the base material didn't like being hammered as in the web area.

Mine is a 2 band, the I.D. of the guard ring 13 7/8? Haven't seen that anywhere.


Are you fallowing the factory procedure for tensioning the tracks?
The tighter the tension the more the web between the teeth gets hammered....
Over tensioning could be the result. I run mine about 3/4" looser than the book recommends.
The machine rolls much easier when on just the loose side..

Regards, Kirk
 

georgeofdesert

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Are you fallowing the factory procedure for tensioning the tracks?
The tighter the tension the more the web between the teeth gets hammered....
Over tensioning could be the result. I run mine about 3/4" looser than the book recommends.
The machine rolls much easier when on just the loose side..

Regards, Kirk
I think I'm ok on the tension. But 3/4" looser sounds better. I'll follow you off spec.
 

3512b

Junior Member
GOLD Site Supporter
The only issue I had was the inside tabs that hold snow guard were to small of a diameter to support the guard ring assembly.
This was cured by a rolling mill rolling a piece of steel just thick enough to fill the gap. No welding required, just a round spacer ring from a band of rolled steel.
I got my sprocket's nearly 10 years ago. Not sure I have the address any more unfortunately. A trip to a local coffee shop might yield that info from a North Pole resident....

Regards, Kirk
Coffey shop in Fairbanks... you spell that bar...
kid I worked with today grew up in Squarbanks.. he never heard of the place but I will look..
 

ROGI

New member
Howd
I had a friend in Fairbanks look for the place and it closed up and could no info found. I be headed north in a couple of weeks to pick up my other Cat if you can pm the Adress I look around a bit more. From what I heard the casting were made from a sprocket and not a pattern so the sprocket pitch was a bit off. steve at CSI plastic in Wasilla can make em out of the plastic
 

ROGI

New member
Howdy, new owner here in Maine, recently learned that I need scrapers and probably snow chutes. While it’s all apart replacing the spacer between the sprockets I thought now would be a great time to get lucky, find new sprockets, and keep the old steel ones for just in case. Is is ludicrous to ask around for new sprockets in the middle of snow season???

Here is my learning curve photo: (notice delaminating rubber from spacer)

thanks much for any advice..
Rogi
 

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