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'63 443 transfer case seals
- Thread starter tom
- Start date
Have you called Tucker?
It's likely they used the same transfer case for years and I'd think they can tell you what seal to get. You shouldn't need to disassemble the transfer case, but as long as it's out of the machine you may want to check the play in the output shaft. Tucker can tell you how to do that as well as provide the recommended specs.
Good Luck!
It's likely they used the same transfer case for years and I'd think they can tell you what seal to get. You shouldn't need to disassemble the transfer case, but as long as it's out of the machine you may want to check the play in the output shaft. Tucker can tell you how to do that as well as provide the recommended specs.
Good Luck!
The first call I made was to Tucker..and although helpful Justin was unable to come up with a part number. I will take it out this week end. My neighbor is a mechanic with a nice big shop and he has offered to he me tackle the problem. Does not appear to be a bad job. Plus I get to learn something about maintaining this machine.
You can change the seals with the transfer case in the machine, just did it on one today, but only the front and rear output. Be sure that you clean the shafts where the nuts are located and I put silicone on the clean washers and nuts as it is possible that the lube can creep down the splines and out under the washer.
Forgot to include the speedi sleeve. The last one I did, some master mecanix used a hammer on the seal surface. Speedi sleeve is the answer and it is stainless too. I put a thin coat of sealant in between the sleeve and yoke and on the washer and nut to prevent leakage down the splines. The seal no. should be on the seal, clean and read. There are so many different sizes of yokes that you need to get the one for your machine. Also, there is no guarantee that yours is the case that came from the factory. Some of the seal OD's are different for the same size machines. Welcome to wrench turning.
Well..got it figured out..pulled the spare t-case out it had the same number as the old one 9-24-52. Scraped the paint off the old seal and found National #50092 on all 3 seals. Bearing house did not carry National but x-referenced another brand and they appear to be the same size. No slip yoke to deal with as far as I can tell.. U-jonts on both ends of the t-case shaft and front differential..so yes I will be turning a wrench or two tomorrow. Thank you all the help. Any you who have this number t-case hope this helps in return.
Hey Tom,
The top input yoke is not secured to the shaft on the transfer case shaft, thus no threads on that shaft. It allows for slip which should not be very much as all components are solid mounted to the frame. Make sure everything is tight. Under load there will be some movement so the seal surface needs to be good. A Speedi-sleeve is good insurance. Wipe lube on the seal lip and the O D of the yoke before installing. Also make sure that the case has a vent. There should be a fill tube that comes up under the seat with a pipe cap that has a small hole in it for this purpose. No vent = pressure when hot and pumps lube out the seals.
The top input yoke is not secured to the shaft on the transfer case shaft, thus no threads on that shaft. It allows for slip which should not be very much as all components are solid mounted to the frame. Make sure everything is tight. Under load there will be some movement so the seal surface needs to be good. A Speedi-sleeve is good insurance. Wipe lube on the seal lip and the O D of the yoke before installing. Also make sure that the case has a vent. There should be a fill tube that comes up under the seat with a pipe cap that has a small hole in it for this purpose. No vent = pressure when hot and pumps lube out the seals.
thank nsno-drifter for the tip in air vent i know where it is and i know that there is a lot of insulation covered with a foil type liner under the seat that i would bet is blocking the venting. could be the reason the seal went. at this point i only need to replace the bottom output seal
Mission accomplished..neighbor mechanic showed up to talk me through and when I was being too gentle with removal of the input yoke he produced a brass hammer and showed me just how tough these things are. Input shaft is solid no play. I am sure now that most of this was due to vent being obstructed and creating too much pressure. It took almost a quart of oil. That is how bad this was leaking since Monday.
Found another leaky output seal on rear axle. Now that I know what to do no problem. It's been 8 years since I worked on my last Cat. Forget how therapeutic it can be. Thanks to all who or offered advice.
Found another leaky output seal on rear axle. Now that I know what to do no problem. It's been 8 years since I worked on my last Cat. Forget how therapeutic it can be. Thanks to all who or offered advice.