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80 year old implement repair

Dargo

Like a bad penny...
GOLD Site Supporter
Many people do not even know what a "culti-packer" is. I didn't until I saw this one at an auction nearly 20 years ago. An old farmer told me that if I was going to put in a yard at the house I was telling him I was going to build, he said that having a culti-packer would be a must. I took him at his word and ran the bidding for the very old and well worn implement all the way up to $40; where I won the bidding.

I put in about a 12 acre lawn where my house is back in 1992 and used this implement for hours and hours. It did a fantastic job with some additional weight added to it (it is made to have weight added on top). In the last 15 years I've pulled it out of the woods and used it here and there to put in a lawn for a relative or to re-do portions of my own lawn after I built my lake. Otherwise, this thing sat in the woods, uncovered, for the last 20 years; just like it had for the roughly 60 years it was in existence before I bought it.

A year or so ago I decided that I would do much of my lawn over again since I've added a pool, pool house, and installed various utilities and services underground. My lawn is not exactly smooth as it once was. Anyway, I almost couldn't find the culti-packer since honeysuckle had completely covered it. After dragging it out I noticed that the bearings on it were in really sad shape and I'd need to repair them if I were going to use this thing any further. I called around and found that about the only place that could get parts for it was Ken Sweet, over at "the other place". Unfortunately, when I spoke to Ken about purchasing parts for my culti-packer, he said that he wouldn't sell parts to anyone he didn't sell the implement to. Not sure he understood what I was asking, I again asked if I could buy replacement bearings from him for an implement , a very used implement, not a tractor. He refused, but offered to buy it from me for what I'd paid for it.

If he hadn't pissed me off so much, I may have sold it to him. I figured it was worthless. I then went to his site and found that he had several culti-packers like mine and he was asking between $1200 and $1500 for them! WTF!? Now I was even further ticked because it seemed to me that he knew exactly what I had and was really trying to take me on buying it from me after refusing to sell me parts. I'm sorry if you know Ken Sweet and do business with him, but I'll never do any sort of business with him. I've had dealings with his type in the past and hope to never deal with that type in the future. I figure word will eventually get around about someone who does business like that.

Sorry for the long intro, but that takes me to the point about 4 weeks ago when I decided that it indeed would be worth my trouble to fix my old implement. After doing considerable cleaning on it (hours and hours), I discovered that it was patented in 1922 and had a manufacturing date stamp on it from 1927. Cool. Since parts were basically not available for it, I begun the process of disassembly to get an idea of exactly what needed repair.

The 4 "barrel" ends cast into the side pieces had end caps on them and had castings on them that said "keep filled with grease". Hmm, never noticed that before; I'd never added grease. :eek: After taking all the pieces apart and then having them boiled clean at a local metal works place, I found all four of the barrel pieces cast into the ends were badly worn, and two of them had fatigue cracks in them. That is when I began my parts list and began drawing up what I would need to do to fix my culti-packer.

I used my plasma cutter and cut out four parts from 3/8" steel that would go over each barrel piece and also hold new flange bearings. The flange bearings would take the place of the wear parts that were once inside these barrel pieces that were not available. Besides, at this point, although I wanted to keep the implement as close to original as possible, I wanted it to be able to work. New high quality flange bearings with grease fittings would be a vast improvement on the original design. I drew out the pieces I would make and then cut out cardboard pieces. If done correctly they would not only hold the new bearings, but would prevent the cracked pieces from having any further stress on them after I welded up the cracks.

That takes me to the next stage. I had to determine the composition of the cast end pieces. Fortunately, they were cast steel, not cast iron. The metal shop that cleaned them for me told me that they were made of "dunite metal" (which after cleaning I found was stamped right on them), and I'd just need to use low hydrogen rods after pre-heating the parent cast pieces and my newly made pieces that would go on them. It sounded easier than it was. The cast steel was not exactly made free of any impurities. That made the welding a bit of a challenge, but I managed. I welded up the cracks, welded some strengthening criss crosses inside the barrels, and welded my new parts on from each side.

At that point I noticed that the original axles measured from 1.22" to 1.75", and everywhere between. In other words, they were badly worn and I'd never get a good seal with new bearings on the old axles. That is when I discovered how expensive 'stress proof' hardened 1.75" steel axles were. :eek: No turning back now, so they were ordered. Once in, I cut them to size and turned the ends on a lathe to match the original ends.

Once everything was welded, checked, and test assembled I was finally able to see that all fit perfectly. I then disassembled everything again; media blasted each part and painted them their original red color with hardened enamel implement paint. After it all dried I reassembled everything. At that point I decided that the original bolts and square nuts were just too far gone to put back on, so I replaced all with new grade 8 bolts, nuts, and washers.

Today I rolled out the nearly completed implement and took a few pictures. I know, I should have taken pictures of the process, but I didn't think of it. All I need to do is to make a new hitch to go on it and I'll be finished. I'm pleased to see that it rolls extremely easy and everything works perfectly; most likely better than new with the high quality roller bearings. Sorry for the long post, but this simple repair became almost what you'd call a labor of love. :thumb: Here are some pics I took with my phone today.
 

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XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq

Master of Distraction
Staff member
SUPER Site Supporter
Dude - that ride is pimpin'! You do some good work!

I would have just gone out and rented a Bobcat soil conditioner but that also would have been too easy!

Nice work and I hear you on Sweets. He always seemed to be "pushing" things on the other site more than helping.
 

Junkman

Extra Super Moderator
Exactly what does it do and how does it do it? What happens when it encounters rocks???? Junk....
 

Jim_S

Gone But Not Forgotten
GOLD Site Supporter
Looks better than new and ready for another 80 years.

Just don't leave it parked in the honeysuckle again :yankchain:
 

Dargo

Like a bad penny...
GOLD Site Supporter
Junkman said:
Exactly what does it do and how does it do it? What happens when it encounters rocks???? Junk....

Ya know, it seems to have a lot of uses. For me, I use it after rototilling but before using my Gill on the yard. Then one last time after seeding. It smoothes, packs, and leaves some line looking indentions. After a rain, the tops (between the lines) melts into the lines and it leaves a really smooth finish and the grass grows great.
 

Cityboy

Banned
Thats some nice work Dargo! :a1:

Wish I had one. Recently did my yard with a disc harow, landscape rake, hand rake and a lot of sweat.
 

Farmwithjunk

New member
I see one problem....

It's too purdy to get dirty!

GREAT job! After comparing ones at that certain website, yours should sell for something in the neighborhood of 5 large ;):applause:
 

daedong

New member
[FONT=&quot]Dargo, top job, well worth preserving. I have seen many old culti packers in my time but non so well preserved as that.[/FONT]
 

Dargo

Like a bad penny...
GOLD Site Supporter
Thanks guys!! You sometimes begin to wonder about your sanity when you spend so much time and money on something really old, and fairly simple. Still, it's almost embarrassing how much time I spent on something so, well, basic. Only people who have also spent time "fixing" something would even begin to understand.
 

kensfarm

Charter Member
SUPER Site Supporter
Wow Dargo that looks top notch.. I dragged mine half buried out of the dirt from the farm across the street.. it'll never look that good.

Can I send mine over to your house?
 

Wannafish

Floppy Member
SUPER Site Supporter
Great Job!
If you find yourself in need of steel rod in the future, keep in mind that "Stressproof" is a trade name for 1144 modified steel. 4140 would work just as well. Stressproof does have good machinability though. Also, I can usually get small quanities of it (Stressproof) at cost, so let me know if you find yourself in need again.
 

Dargo

Like a bad penny...
GOLD Site Supporter
Okay, here is where I am open to suggestions. Previously on this culti-packer it just had two pieces of 1/4" flat bar (the top bent upwards and the bottom bent downwards) with a hole drilled in them where you could drop a pin through them and hitch it to the draw bar on a tractor. The 1/4" pieces were shot and ready to break anyway. So, here is my question; on the front of the packer, there is just a piece of 4" channel, legs down, sticking out the front. It has two very rounded out holes in it I was going to plate with 3/8" plates. Then I was going to extend two more pieces of 3/8" X 2" wide plates out the front and drill them out for the pin to drop through. This would be much stronger.

However, I will most likely pull this with either my RTV or Rhino most of the time. They both have trailer hitches on the rear. Should I weld up a trailer tongue on the front of the culti-packer? If I do need my tractor to pull it, I have made plenty of hitches that go on the 3 pt hitch; or I could even mount a ball on the draw bar. Another thought I had was putting a large eye bolt sticking out the front. It would work as a pintle hitch that way. The problem there is I do not have any pintle hitches. What would you do to finish this project??
 

bczoom

Super Moderator
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
If it's going to be pulled with a UTV, I would use whatever setup you utilize for everything else being pulled by the machines. My personal preference is a ball and coupler.
 

Jim_S

Gone But Not Forgotten
GOLD Site Supporter
bczoom said:
My personal preference is a ball and coupler.

ball and coupler gets my vote too. Be easier for me to tow when I borrow it.

Jim
 

Dargo

Like a bad penny...
GOLD Site Supporter
Okay, I went out and bought a hitch that accepts a 2" ball. Hmm, now do I permanently weld that to the implement or weld a receiver to the implement and weld up a 2" insert from the hitch that slides into the Reese style receiver on the implement? That way I could slide any number of attachement methods onto it?

Or, am I over thinking this...weld the damn hitch on and be finished?! :tiphat: :confused:
 

Jim_S

Gone But Not Forgotten
GOLD Site Supporter
Dargo said:
Or, am I over thinking this...weld the damn hitch on and be finished?! :tiphat: :confused:

Speaking for myself and what I have to pull with (L3400, RTV, and T1860) just weld it on. Why 2"? the small trailer and the lawn sweep I have are 1 7/8" I think they make a universal that fits both.

Jim
 

bczoom

Super Moderator
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
Do you even need to weld it?

A couple 1/2" bolts and you're done. Looking at the tongue in the picture, I would slide the coupler under those 2 holes (as I'm assuming it won't fit on top) and bolt it in through the top of the coupler.

Edit: I have a mix of 1 7/8 and 2" couplers. I just use a 1 7/8" ball and don't worry about it (FOR OFF-ROAD USE ONLY).
 

Junkman

Extra Super Moderator
I believe that you should use a pintle hook and a ring attachment. Don't forget to install brakes on the implement. Personally, I like surge brakes for this type of application. 8 ply raised white letter tires will set it off very nicely and there won't be another like it anywhere..... Junk...... :yankchain:
 

Dargo

Like a bad penny...
GOLD Site Supporter
No worries, it's now solidly welded in place. Damn hitch was made from galvanized steel! :mad: How pleasant do you think it was when a hot glob of molten steel dropped into my boot and set my sock on fire?! :eek:

Man, I couldn't get my boot off quite fast enought for my liking!
 

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JimR

Charter Member
Nice job on the implement Dargo. I'll send over some of the 50 yeard old items we have kicking around at the farm for you to clean up.:yankchain: :yankchain:
 

XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq

Master of Distraction
Staff member
SUPER Site Supporter
I picked up an old Dunham Cultipacker today. It was $200 which was not quite the deal that Dargo got but still pretty good.

Here's some pictures. It's rough but it's loose. Which I think means that it won't be too hard to take apart.

You can see a broken weld were someone obviously welded it together but let it cool too quickly.

Not sure when I'll get around to rebuilding it but it will eventually become a project.

Anybody know what the trailing wheels are for? It kind of looks like it would flip over into a single cultipacker or something?
 

mla2ofus

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Very good Job,Dargo!!!! that looks better than new. For those needing to smooth tilled/plowed ground and for those who don't have one of these,use an old iron bedspring or chainlink gate. Add weight as needed to either.
Mike
 

mla2ofus

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
PB, the extra wheels on yours are for pulling them in "gangs" like mowers.That way there's no unworked area between them.
Mike
 

Dargo

Like a bad penny...
GOLD Site Supporter
Sweet! You got that "new" model with roller bearings. Mine had wood blocks filled with grease for bearings. :( But, alas, after the rebuild, mine now has nice roller bearings. If done properly, that break can be welded back no problem. It really wasn't all that difficult to weld cast steel, but it does take a particular process with a specific rod. Good luck! You'll have a nice piece that your grandkids will be using.
 
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