olympicorange
Active member
Doug is a good guy. very knowledgeable. he originally bought out the Ludlow tucker dealership. sounds like he has pretty well sold off the old stock. 
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1973 Tucker Sno Cat 1443 New to Me
- Thread starter Track Addict
- Start date
Early sno this year!
Dove into the new tie rods and alignment. Got the front table parallel to the frame. Left the back alone for now as the rear table needs full turn to get at the nut. Lots of measurements because it takes a bit to figure out if your off or Tucker was off. They weren't exactly precision fabrications.
Removed the tie rods from the center pivots and centered the piston in the middle of the 11" stoke. Then I got the center pivot adjusted to make sure the top pivot and tire rod centers are perpendicular to the frame. Was off a bit on the passenger side when drivers was centered. Thought it was bent but turns out the bolts were loose on passenger side so it was slide back a bit. Tightened and aligned check.
Next will be to cut and weld the new tie rod courtesy of Davenet to length.
Removed the tie rods from the center pivots and centered the piston in the middle of the 11" stoke. Then I got the center pivot adjusted to make sure the top pivot and tire rod centers are perpendicular to the frame. Was off a bit on the passenger side when drivers was centered. Thought it was bent but turns out the bolts were loose on passenger side so it was slide back a bit. Tightened and aligned check.
Next will be to cut and weld the new tie rod courtesy of Davenet to length.
We are well prepared for trick or treat this year!
Pulled the hydraulic system out today for piston rebuild, pump check/rebuild, and new hoses. Not loving the pipe fitting nipples as hose barb. Will take a look at better options for fittings throughout the system.
Took the pivot out for inspection and paint. We will see if it has cracks like
1BG after cleaning and blasting. That pin on the pivot the piston is frozen good. Got it to move a little then bailed because what's the point? Pivots fine.
The hydraulic and alternator brackets need some grinding, welding, and paint.
Lots of degreasing and cleaning. You can see what that the frame is not painted as BFT points out. Luckily this cat has has an entire life of indoor storage except for use.
The bearing tape puked out of the front trunion in the last pic which is interesting...
Took the pivot out for inspection and paint. We will see if it has cracks like
1BG after cleaning and blasting. That pin on the pivot the piston is frozen good. Got it to move a little then bailed because what's the point? Pivots fine.
The hydraulic and alternator brackets need some grinding, welding, and paint.
Lots of degreasing and cleaning. You can see what that the frame is not painted as BFT points out. Luckily this cat has has an entire life of indoor storage except for use.
The bearing tape puked out of the front trunion in the last pic which is interesting...
As I was cleaning up the pivot last night I was looking at that slop. I can't leave it like that. Going to push the pin out tonight as I await what type of country I am getting in the future. Once I separate the pieces I can see what we are up against.
The rear piston clevis has a little wear on the pin like a track link would. Seem like the pin took it all. The pins they used are 7/8". Easy way is to bore out to 3/4 and insert a more common 3/4'pin and get another 40 years.
The correct way is to bore out the pivot, bush back to 7/8" and add a grease fitting. The upper pin has very little wear and just needs a new 7/8" pin. If you watch the motion that end moves very little though the range.
The upper frame pivots are cast with Bronze insert and grease fitting has no wear. Curious as to why they did not make the lower piston pivot able to be greased or at least bushed. It sees far more wear and motion than the upper pivot.
I would also caution that making everything too tight could be bad. I doubt the alignment is precision on all those moving parts. Sometimes making things better on these Tuckers causes other things to become worse.
New hydraulic fittings are on the way. The piston is being rebuild and new hoses made. The pump is too old for the shop to work on and it wasn't having any issues so continue to run it. If it dies a new pump is easy to replace like we did with the 442A.
I will post my findings this evening if I don't have to muster the local militia and armory.
The rear piston clevis has a little wear on the pin like a track link would. Seem like the pin took it all. The pins they used are 7/8". Easy way is to bore out to 3/4 and insert a more common 3/4'pin and get another 40 years.
The correct way is to bore out the pivot, bush back to 7/8" and add a grease fitting. The upper pin has very little wear and just needs a new 7/8" pin. If you watch the motion that end moves very little though the range.
The upper frame pivots are cast with Bronze insert and grease fitting has no wear. Curious as to why they did not make the lower piston pivot able to be greased or at least bushed. It sees far more wear and motion than the upper pivot.
I would also caution that making everything too tight could be bad. I doubt the alignment is precision on all those moving parts. Sometimes making things better on these Tuckers causes other things to become worse.
New hydraulic fittings are on the way. The piston is being rebuild and new hoses made. The pump is too old for the shop to work on and it wasn't having any issues so continue to run it. If it dies a new pump is easy to replace like we did with the 442A.
I will post my findings this evening if I don't have to muster the local militia and armory.
Track Addict,
"I will post my findings this evening if I don't have to muster the local militia and armory."
Lol, can you ride a horse?
"I will post my findings this evening if I don't have to muster the local militia and armory."
Lol, can you ride a horse?
I'm far more capable if they mob #2 if by sea but I have the horses ready for #1 if by land.
I have a pretty good defensive position from remote office and despite being in Massachusetts if you have the right background you can legally accumulate a healthy Arsenal. Then again they will also know what to ask for when they show up for them one day......
Thank god for dual citizenship in NH also!
I have a pretty good defensive position from remote office and despite being in Massachusetts if you have the right background you can legally accumulate a healthy Arsenal. Then again they will also know what to ask for when they show up for them one day......
Thank god for dual citizenship in NH also!
First don't pound on the lower pin. Needs to be pressed our. As for the upper that one has more tolerance. There would be no way to press the upper out so maybe this was by design. Also look at the giant hole in the back of the upper mount. The move here is to take out the pin and grease regularly.
The pins took the majority of the wear. Using the pressed out end that is true and putting that in the bore it's not worth boring. Going to replace with softest grade steel pin I can find. With grease applied that should continue to take the wear. The pivot and upper mount seems to be a harder material.
I drilled and tapped a grease fitting in the bottom pivot opposite the piston for clearance.There isn't a good spot or way to grease the back and that pin is easy to remove on mine so that will have to stay.
Going to get a few bronze thrust washers to take some of the side to side play out. As I mentioned I think removing all the play is a bad idea. This should be much tighter and serviceable for my lifetime and allow the Tucker to stretch and flex as needed.
Removed the last of the iron pipe fittings and nipple barbs. The returm hoses will still be clamped but now proper hydraulic barbs, clamps, and hose.
Parts off to the blaster tomorrow.
The pins took the majority of the wear. Using the pressed out end that is true and putting that in the bore it's not worth boring. Going to replace with softest grade steel pin I can find. With grease applied that should continue to take the wear. The pivot and upper mount seems to be a harder material.
I drilled and tapped a grease fitting in the bottom pivot opposite the piston for clearance.There isn't a good spot or way to grease the back and that pin is easy to remove on mine so that will have to stay.
Going to get a few bronze thrust washers to take some of the side to side play out. As I mentioned I think removing all the play is a bad idea. This should be much tighter and serviceable for my lifetime and allow the Tucker to stretch and flex as needed.
Removed the last of the iron pipe fittings and nipple barbs. The returm hoses will still be clamped but now proper hydraulic barbs, clamps, and hose.
Parts off to the blaster tomorrow.
Yea half my family are ranchers so I can do the horse thing too if need be, I keep a pic just to prove it But I always preferred the petrol or gunpowder sports. And we're hard to sneak up on by sea, so I just keep a little powder and the bulk tank full.
We're a pretty red state anyway, so the mob is pretty small here
But I always preferred the petrol or gunpowder sports. And we're hard to sneak up on by sea, so I just keep a little powder and the bulk tank full. We're a pretty red state anyway, so the mob is pretty small here
Mine is fine no leaks. Never took one apart.
Call Doug up at Mountain Grooming in VT. He mentioned he had some used take offs. Might be easier and ED Gil was your cats vintage.
Call Doug up at Mountain Grooming in VT. He mentioned he had some used take offs. Might be easier and ED Gil was your cats vintage.
I removed the orbital valve from my 1973 542 and the shaft stayed in place just had to remove the four bolts and it came out very easy
Escaped tyranny on a quick adult trip to Boca then got sent home a day early from the hurricane. COVID air travel is interesting as well as how polar opposite states view this thing. Interesting for sure and stay tuned to see if we got the virus.
The upper pin situation was bothering me not being able to grease it easily. Also the center is open to the frame so the grease needs to be applied to the outside edges and front surface of the upper mount. Looking at the pin the piston doesn't seem to wear either but is not as tight a fit as the bottom. Will check clearance options when piston is back.
The stock pins are just 7/8 bar stock. Once I get the parts back from blaster I can confirm the tolerance and see what works. The lower one should have a tight fit in the piston clevis to hold the pin allowing just the center pivot to wear and grease. Have a few different pin options ready.
For the top I drilled a grease passage deep and tapped a grease fitting. Once I get the piston back I will l measure for the two cross holes which willl let me grease in place.
I also intend to line the holes up with the direction the grease fitting points. That way I don't push toward the open frame part and can insure it greases front to back. Depending on the fit at the piston I may just drill one cross hole and slide the pin back and forth wile greasing to get all the areas. This may be the best plan. At any rate better service options have been implemented to this setup.
The upper pin situation was bothering me not being able to grease it easily. Also the center is open to the frame so the grease needs to be applied to the outside edges and front surface of the upper mount. Looking at the pin the piston doesn't seem to wear either but is not as tight a fit as the bottom. Will check clearance options when piston is back.
The stock pins are just 7/8 bar stock. Once I get the parts back from blaster I can confirm the tolerance and see what works. The lower one should have a tight fit in the piston clevis to hold the pin allowing just the center pivot to wear and grease. Have a few different pin options ready.
For the top I drilled a grease passage deep and tapped a grease fitting. Once I get the piston back I will l measure for the two cross holes which willl let me grease in place.
I also intend to line the holes up with the direction the grease fitting points. That way I don't push toward the open frame part and can insure it greases front to back. Depending on the fit at the piston I may just drill one cross hole and slide the pin back and forth wile greasing to get all the areas. This may be the best plan. At any rate better service options have been implemented to this setup.
Good idea Mr. T&A. You could also drill and tap for a set screw in which ever part you do not want to wear. At first glance, I would think you don't want wear in the center piece which is welded to the frame. Much easier to replace clevis or bore and bush the hyd. cylinder. Might be over thinking it though.
That is an excellent point and solution. Going to marinate that idea. Not sure I can skill that by hand in the spot it needs to clear.
Testing the new website functionality with missing pics.
Got the parts back from the blaster. No cracks to be had.
Fitting up the various pin solutions the 7/8 bar stock does need to be pressed in and wont allow the clevis to pivot. This will continue to wear the pivot even with grease over time. The clevis Pin fits nice and tight and I can drill and tab a grease passage to lubricate the hydraulic clevis. I am going to remove the grease fitting I installed and enlarge that hole for a 1/4-28 set bolt and then weld a nut over the hole. This will transfer all the wear to the piston clevis and clevis pin which will be drilled to grease the wear surfaces of the two.
On the upper mount I intend to do the same thing. This will transfer the wear to the hydraulic piston, clevis end, and clevis pin plus be greaseable. This preserves the life of the proprietary Tucker parts no longer available and makes the wear surfaces serviceable and replaceable.
Nice work Sno Drifter!
Fitting up the various pin solutions the 7/8 bar stock does need to be pressed in and wont allow the clevis to pivot. This will continue to wear the pivot even with grease over time. The clevis Pin fits nice and tight and I can drill and tab a grease passage to lubricate the hydraulic clevis. I am going to remove the grease fitting I installed and enlarge that hole for a 1/4-28 set bolt and then weld a nut over the hole. This will transfer all the wear to the piston clevis and clevis pin which will be drilled to grease the wear surfaces of the two.
On the upper mount I intend to do the same thing. This will transfer the wear to the hydraulic piston, clevis end, and clevis pin plus be greaseable. This preserves the life of the proprietary Tucker parts no longer available and makes the wear surfaces serviceable and replaceable.
Nice work Sno Drifter!
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Had a helper tonight. Happy with the final product. Will do same upper mount once I get cylinder back and can check clearances for location.
All stock parts from McMaster.
5/16 grade 8 fine nut and set/jam bolt
7/8 x 3 1/2 clevis pin
7/8 bronze thrust washers/spacer
Roll pins
Just need to turn a groove around the clevis pin cross holes before installation.
All primed ready for paint.
All stock parts from McMaster.
5/16 grade 8 fine nut and set/jam bolt
7/8 x 3 1/2 clevis pin
7/8 bronze thrust washers/spacer
Roll pins
Just need to turn a groove around the clevis pin cross holes before installation.
All primed ready for paint.
Attachments
Snowy Rivers
Well-known member
Getting the young ones involved is a great thing.
Looking good...
Looking good...
I assume you cross drilled two hole to the center drilled grease hole?
Yes. Then I will turn a grease groove around the circumphrense of the pin so the grease flows all the way around.
Hydraulic/Alternator brackets painted and mounted.
Installed the new hydraulic fittings now with proper hose barbs instead of nipples.
Test fit and ready for install. Pump paint and hopefully the hoses and cylinder are back.
Installed the new hydraulic fittings now with proper hose barbs instead of nipples.
Test fit and ready for install. Pump paint and hopefully the hoses and cylinder are back.
Pivot back in place. Replaceable grease pin complete. Added some bronze thrust on the outside. Has just enough Tucker tolerance.
This shows a good example of BFT's unpainted part nemesis. Pretty good shape for this indoor cat but you can see how this can be problematic.
Gas black pipe fittings leaking. Will update those as well.
This shows a good example of BFT's unpainted part nemesis. Pretty good shape for this indoor cat but you can see how this can be problematic.
Gas black pipe fittings leaking. Will update those as well.
Attachments
Going to apply fluid film to all the seams and exposed steel where I can under here.
That will be a good alternative to nothing and the current bare metal to aluminum.
That will be a good alternative to nothing and the current bare metal to aluminum.
New marine fuel fittings and shut off.
why does it look like there are 2 holes in the floor pan for the gas line to go through, I have been told that these machines were high quality precision built...did you do this TA?
That is OEM Tucker assembly line.
First time these side panels ever been off. Close is good enough I guess?
First time these side panels ever been off. Close is good enough I guess?
Had to move the parts stash and organize. Cleaning up down back getting ready to replant the Christmas tree farm my great grandfather had on the property prior to 1977 when he passed and they were left unmanaged to date.
Bolted down the pivot with new Grade 8 hardware. Upper pivot mount is amazingly tight.
Working on cleaning the grease/oil/brake dust etc off the panels. Acetone taking a little paint off. Will try brake clean next reccomended by the professional pontoon.
Pumped about the progress
Bolted down the pivot with new Grade 8 hardware. Upper pivot mount is amazingly tight.
Working on cleaning the grease/oil/brake dust etc off the panels. Acetone taking a little paint off. Will try brake clean next reccomended by the professional pontoon.
Pumped about the progress