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New to me, ST4 1332

Sno-Surfer

Active member
That belly pan looks fine to me. That's what mine was although it did have some reinforcing around the holes and they were oversized.
 

nikos

Active member
Mill666er

From the beginning.
On the Master Cylinder there are two Bleeder tubes, Left and right Line brakes ok There are also two bleeder hoses.
The left one, is in the photo.
Except the cables of the hand brake, which is a different brake system under the hood, On the Drum brake system I think you have to unscrew

a) The Bleeder Screw to see if there is any liquid brake in the line.
If the Bleeder Screw in not wet, the problem is in the Bleeder Hose.
In the years the Dirt, or a Solid material from the rubber etc stuck inside
the Bleeder Hose and there is no brake pressure, ever the master cylinder,
the pressure cup or the tubes and the brake cylinder on the Drum brake
system, works fine.

b) Check first the Bleeder Screws. Probably the main problem is in the Bleeder
Hoses. Its easy to replace both of them.

You need a second hand, a extra help from a friend, to push the brake pedal from inside the cabin. ok

If the problem is not in the Bleeder Hoses, then you have to check the brake pressure from the master cylinder (The bubbles) etc, or the pressure of the brake cylinder on the drum. But this is another story. First The Bleeder Hoses ok

Nikos
 

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nikos

Active member
Thanks for the responses, mine does not appear to have the original belly pan and the holes are beat out of round since it is aluminum. Either of you know if the master cylinder is available or what it is out of? The previous owner just said the brakes do not work and the pads look new. Both cables to the hand brake are broken so I need to find someone to make up a couple new ones.


Lyndon SNOW TRAC BRAKE SYSTEM :hammer::hammer:

http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=9181

Nikos
 

willd

Member
At least yours runs. Mine is #1324 I think, already forgot the number from an hour ago. Mine is in piles all over my shop as we speak, needing a transmission rebuild to go with the new motor I just bought for it.

I followed the brake advice in the threads and it all looks like the stuff will fit. I wound up using a local shop here in Reno to get most of it since they had German or Brazilian VW stuff instead of the cheap garbage on Rockauto.

If you decide to pull the brakes off that thing, be aware that the bearings fall out of the center support pretty easy and the e-brake cables should have a grease zerk in them down under the motor. I'm going to put some buggy turning brake handles in mine to help loading on my trailer. I'm not very good at lining things up just yet and sometimes I needed the ability to turn 1" one way or the other to make sure I was centered without backing off the trailer. I figure there is enough slop in the tracks and the variator belt to allow an inch here or there if I need it.

Where did you source the bearing material for the bogeys and what size tubing did you use? I can get bronze bushing material here but I don't have a machine shop that I can make up custom stuff without having to pay through the nose.

Good luck, nice find.
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Sweet looking toys...

I see all these machines sitting around with tracks and I shed a tear or two as my project still has wheels and tires :sad:


Great looking sheds too.

What I have found about projects is "They are a disease"

Gawd I hope nobody ever comes up with a cure... :yum:
 

Mill666er

Active member
SUPER Site Supporter
Where did you source the bearing material for the bogeys and what size tubing did you use? I can get bronze bushing material here but I don't have a machine shop that I can make up custom stuff without having to pay through the nose.

Good luck, nice find.



I bought everything from McMaster $130 plus shipping

8927K98 5/8" x 6' 4140 rod for axles
89955K889 7/8" x .120" x6' for small inner tubes
5243T15 1 1/4" oil filled UHMW for bushings
7767T431 1 1/2" x .120 x 6' low carbon tube for large outer tubes

I ordered everything before taking bushings out of the large tubes and found out I should have ordered a thicker wall 1 1/2" tube and bored them out so that there is a shoulder 'stop' for the bushing.
 

JimVT

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
At least yours runs. Mine is #1324 I think, already forgot the number from an hour ago. Mine is in piles all over my shop as we speak, needing a transmission rebuild to go with the new motor I just bought for it.

I followed the brake advice in the threads and it all looks like the stuff will fit. I wound up using a local shop here in Reno to get most of it since they had German or Brazilian VW stuff instead of the cheap garbage on Rockauto.

If you decide to pull the brakes off that thing, be aware that the bearings fall out of the center support pretty easy and the e-brake cables should have a grease zerk in them down under the motor. I'm going to put some buggy turning brake handles in mine to help loading on my trailer. I'm not very good at lining things up just yet and sometimes I needed the ability to turn 1" one way or the other to make sure I was centered without backing off the trailer. I figure there is enough slop in the tracks and the variator belt to allow an inch here or there if I need it.

Where did you source the bearing material for the bogeys and what size tubing did you use? I can get bronze bushing material here but I don't have a machine shop that I can make up custom stuff without having to pay through the nose.

Good luck, nice find.
on vintage bike's snow trac

DSC00783_1.jpg
 

Mill666er

Active member
SUPER Site Supporter
I had a chance to work on the brakes this week. I could pump up the pedal and get pressure to the drivers side but nothing on the passenger side. Pulled the hose off of the wheel cylinder and could not get any fluid through the rubber hose but had normal flow and pressure at the end of the steel line. It appears that the hose is rotten or collapsed but I was able to run a wire through it to open it up. The wheel cylinder was completely froze up and had to use the press to get the pistons out. Honed the bore and cleaned up the pistons and put it back together for now. Drums are in great shape and well as the brake shoes.

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Now that the brakes work I didn't think the thin belly pan was going hold up once I started using them. Burned out a couple braces on the plasma table and bent them to fit the contour of the belly pan.

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Hope to put some miles on it this weekend since snowmobile season ends Friday and the roads are open to all users.
 

JimVT

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
I don't have the inboard brakes and noticed the muffler was removed. do you have to do it to do a brake job?
that looks strong enough to do the job.
jim
 

Mill666er

Active member
SUPER Site Supporter
Yes, the worst part of getting the inboard brake assemblies out was removing the muffler. The flex pipe connecting from the muffler to the bumper 'tailpipe' was rusted at both ends and rotted out. Most of the exhaust pipe will need to be replaced but the muffler looked like it was replaced at some point. I will also need to re-line the brake bands when I get around to replacing the broken cables.
 

Whipper

Member
You asked about engine oil. I use Brad Penn in all my vws. Still not sure which weight to use in my sno-trac yet.
 

Hotdog

New member
I guess this happened because I've been drinking the cheap store brand ORANGE sugar drink.

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This was the one listed quite a few months ago on the forum and Fairbanks Craigslist. Took a week and $1500 to get it barged from Anchorage to Seattle.

Don was correct in his observation about it being a hunting rig, not a whole lot to work with here but hey, it runs and I needed another project.
What barge? I’m trying to get one shipped out of Anchorage next week
 
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