• Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/

Testing "Thundercat"...

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
My snowcat buddy, Scott, and I are finally in the testing phase of our long term project Tucker, which we nicknamed "Thundercat". We're big believers in testing machines in actual conditions; meaning at high elevation, and in deep snow. This type of testing will uncover problems that you don't find at the shop, or in what I'll call "lesser" conditions, such as at lower elevation and/or with less snow depth.

Late last May we took it out for it's initial test. The machine ran very well, however we uncovered two issues that needed to be dealt with. One was the steering system at slow speeds required too much effort to turn the tracks, and the other was an engine overheating problem.

We made modifications to both systems, and after we had enough snow, took it out about two weeks ago for more testing. The steering issues are solved, but the overheating problem persists. We also felt the windshield wiper system could be improved. (We've now done that.)

I took some video of the testing, which was done at an elevation of 10,500 feet in several feet of Utah's famous "Champagne" powder, the same place we tested back in May. The pictures below are taken from the videos. For reference, the height of a Tucker track on hard ground is about 30" to the top of the grouser bar over the drive sprocket.

Note: If people are interested I can detail the steering system improvements, and the wiper system changes as well. I believe these upgrades are well worth the time and trouble. We'll incorporate them on a second machine being refurbished and modified for another forum member.
 

Attachments

  • Screen Shot 2016-12-18 at 12.02.39 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2016-12-18 at 12.02.39 PM.png
    759.8 KB · Views: 967
  • Screen Shot 2016-12-18 at 12.03.54 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2016-12-18 at 12.03.54 PM.png
    1.1 MB · Views: 999
  • Screen Shot 2016-12-18 at 12.04.33 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2016-12-18 at 12.04.33 PM.png
    940.1 KB · Views: 976
  • Screen Shot 2016-12-18 at 12.05.07 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2016-12-18 at 12.05.07 PM.png
    925.8 KB · Views: 963
  • Screen Shot 2016-12-18 at 12.06.14 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2016-12-18 at 12.06.14 PM.png
    1 MB · Views: 988
  • Screen Shot 2016-12-18 at 12.00.13 PM.png
    Screen Shot 2016-12-18 at 12.00.13 PM.png
    1,013.4 KB · Views: 996

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Great photos! Curious as to which length tracks are on the cat. 4,5,or 6 bogie wheels?

It's a long track (1600 Series) machine with six wheels per carrier. For Tuckers of this vintage (1980) the 1600's had the lowest snow pressure. They have about 20% more surface area than 1500 series Tuckers and roughly 30% more than 1300 series models.
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
My snowcat buddy, Scott, and I made some modifications and took Thundercat out for more testing yesterday to verify the results. First was the wiper modification I alluded to in my first post.

Untitled.jpg

Note the tan and blue arcs. The tan arcs represent the area swept by the stock Tucker wiper system. The blue arcs represent the modified system. To paraphrase President Obama "If you like your Tucker wiper system, you can keep your Tucker wiper system." My snowcat buddy and I think the redesigned system (all existing factory parts!) is a substantial improvement.

Note where the driver and passenger sit, and how the redesign moves the swept area more in line with where they would look. Note also the large unswept area in the center of the windshield. Now imagine that area obscured by snow... Lastly, look how almost all of that is cleared by the modified wiper system. (The wiper linkage was disconnected to move the wipers for photo clarity. That's not where they park.)

We also replaced the basically brand new (and ineffective) Griffin radiator. I purchased the radiator based upon the recommendation of Griffin's so-called "technical support" staff. "It will cool 550 horsepower. You have nothing to worry about". Except it doesn't...

I ended up buying a new radiator from Ron Davis Racing Products. The craftsmanship is impressive, and for a gearhead - it's basically a piece of artwork. The best part is... it works! We had to make some brackets to secure the radiator and made those out of aluminum plate bent into a C-channel with a press brake. Scott then welded a base plate and some gussets, as well as some tabs for a stainless steel overflow tank.

IMG_0969.jpg

And a front view. This is the largest radiator we could fit without modifying the frame. If you look closely at the photo you can also see the wipers in their parked position.

IMG_0972.jpg

The conditions were near perfect. The new radiator worked beautifully and engine overheating wasn't an issue at all. Of course we did find a new wrinkle; the hydraulic fluid temperature is too high, and we'll have to find a solution to get that lowered. But here are some photos.

Unloading. With a Tucker you just back up to the snowbank and put the Tucker in reverse. Ramps are optional. (Yes, I really need to get a deckover trailer.)

IMG_0973.jpg

Before looking at this next photo I feel it necessary to add a warning. If you live in the frozen tundra of the midwest, or on the east coast you may be offended....

You're reading that right; over eight feet of snow!

IMG_0982.jpg

Here's a photo just showing the spectacular country (with a Tucker, of course).

IMG_0984.jpg

And another, with Bald Mountain in the background. The road is called Mirror Lake Highway, also Utah State Route 150. They don't plow the road in the winter, so it's popular with snowmobilers, cross country skiers, snowshoers, etc. It's about 15 miles from where you unload to the top. (In the summer and fall it's also a fantastic route for a Harley ride.)

IMG_0988.jpg
 

KT3survivor

Active member
dig the wiper mod. such a beast. must be a nice power plant to warrent that radiator. i could go on. . . sweet build. keep the cool photos coming!
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
As Thundercat’s final assembly continues, I thought I’d put out a “teaser" pic and an explanation of the details. As I’m sure many have figured out, Thundercat isn’t so much a restoration, as a “resto-mod”.

A resto-mod differs substantially from a restoration in that with a restoration the various vehicular functions and designs have already been proven. The task is to repair and/or restore the individual components as part of restoring the vehicle in total. However, when you're modifying a vehicle, the process is different. Unless you’re copying an already proven design or modification, the process can be broken down into phases consisting of research, planning, execution, testing and evaluation. If the testing and evaluation phases don’t yield satisfactory results, you may then be forced to take several steps back and make still more modifications until acceptable results are achieved.

This was the case with the Thundercat hydraulic system. Because of the fluid overheating issue, we felt we needed to use a multi-pronged approach: trying to lessen the radiant heat under the hood and install a fluid cooler to remove the heat, as well as an in-dash gauge to monitor the fluid temperature. I’ll just discuss the latter in this post.

We had previously redesigned and installed a new instrument panel. Scott used his CAD system and we played around with different configurations until we achieved what we thought was the best layout. Our design is slightly longer than the original and that necessitated relocating some of the fastener holes in the dashboard's sheet metal. The stock instrument panel is aluminum, with a black wrinkle finish and cut outs for the various gauges and switches. Tucker used mostly Cole Hersee brand rocker switches. Some of those switches had a red indicator light that illuminated when the switch was on. The switch functions were labeled, and switches were installed (or not) depending on which options were ordered. We wanted to use a different style of gauges, a different shape hour meter, add a transmission temperature gauge, and several more switches, as well as an additional indicator light.

We sent the design as a dxf file to a company in SLC and they did a spectacular job water-jet cutting it. Here’s a photo of the first design instrument panel installed in the dash. You’ll note a large, tall knob above and to the right of the 8,000 RPM tachometer. Tucker uses a pull-and-twist style manual throttle cable. They work okay, but we thought a vernier style one allows better control and finer adjustment of engine RPM.


DSC02375.jpg

But that design was obsolete now that we wanted a hydraulic fluid temperature gauge as well. So, back to the CAD system to make some changes and create room for the additional gauge. Then we ran into a little problem... We had selected Auto Meter’s Sport Comp line of gauges and they didn’t make a hydraulic fluid temperature gauge! But as the saying goes “Where there’s a will - there’s a way”. After talking with Auto Meter, and a gauge restoration company In California, we had Auto Meter make up a transmission temperature gauge specially for us; but intentionally omitting the word TRANS from the gauge face. Then I had a local company in SLC make up some decals using the same font, same size and same color that said HYD. The new gauge and decals were sent to Redline Gauge Works in California and they disassembled the gauge, installed the decal, reassembled it and sent it back. Voila…an Auto Meter Sport Comp hydraulic temperature gauge!

Here’s the transmission temperature gauge.

IMG_1933.jpg

The blank gauge face.

IMG_1931.jpg

And the HYD gauge.

IMG_1943.jpg

We selected Carling Contura V rocker switches to replace the factory switches. The photo of the instrument panel above isn’t all that clear, but the switches have both a descriptive word or two that identifies the switch function (I’ll call that a legend), and a symbol. The switches have two small LED bulbs inside and we wired the system as follows: When a switch is turned on the symbol illuminates. When the headlights (or the separate dash lights switch) are turned on, all the switch legends light up, and when a switch is turned on, the symbol illuminates as well. We changed all the bulbs in the Auto Meter gauges to LED bulbs and added a dimmer switch to the instrument panel. You may notice the stock rotary wiper switch is gone and was replaced with a Contura V switch. That change, as well as the separate dash lights switch and the dome light system logic required creativity, and once again Scott’s genius made it happen. Let me explain the dome light system: Tucker installed one dome light in the front half of the cab and offset it toward the driver’s side. There was a switch actuated by the driver’s door that would turn on the light when opened, but nothing for the front passenger door. We wanted two dome lights, with the second in the rear of the cab (both centered side-to-side), and a right front door switch, too. And as Billy Mays, the late infomercial king would say, "BUT WAIT, THERE’S MORE!” My wife enjoys knitting (and she has been more than tolerant of my snowcat projects). I could picture her wanting some light to knit by in the back seat, so she’d want her dome light on. But having the front light on would be distracting to the front seat occupants and compromise their forward visibility. So opening either front door turns on both dome lights. Turning the dome lights switch on the instrument panel turns on both dome lights, but turning on the dome light switch on the rear center console (another sub-project) only turns on the rear dome light. We (Scott) got the system to work by adding five diodes to the wiring harness. If you’re like most people, you’ve heard the word, but don’t know what a diode does, exactly. Basically they function like a check valve in a plumbing system in that they allow current to flow in only one direction, and this prevents back feeding an electrical circuit.

Most of the switches are simple on-off switches, but three; the windshield wiper, headlight and fan switches are on-off-on as the wipers and fan both have high and low speeds, and we used dual beam headlight bulbs, so there is a high and a low switch position.

The second version of the new dash was cut out and we decided to add some pizzaz to the instrument panel by using a vinyl wrap and some anodized gauge bezels. Here’s a pic of the gauge side.

IMG_1959.jpg

A detailed eye might pick up on the tachometer change. When I originally bought the gauges Auto Meter only offered an 8,000 RPM tach. However a few years ago enough people were clamoring for a lower RPM model that they decided to offer a 6,000 RPM version, too. Thundercat will never see anything close to 8,000 RPM, and having a significant portion of a gauge unusable seemed stupid, so we installed a new 6,000 RPM tach.

Here’s a better photo of the switches with the symbols and legends.

IMG_1964.jpg


Here they are powered with the headlights switch on. That’s the only switch in the on position and why only that symbol is lit up.

IMG_1967.jpg

We did a lot more upgrades and modifications to the machine, but this post is just a teaser...and those details will have to wait.

 

mlang2005

Member
Dash Looks nice! I think I would go with a hand lever hand throttle, like a boat.

What did you guys figure out on the hydraulic over heat?
 

PJL

Well-known member
If "dash envy" is a thing then I have it. Having operated at night I can say that the illuminated switches will be very handy.
 

DAVENET

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Damn. That's top notch. Did you have to do custom icons and wording for the front & rear roof lights, or did Carling already have them?
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Dash Looks nice! I think I would go with a hand lever hand throttle, like a boat.

What did you guys figure out on the hydraulic over heat?

I’m assuming you’re asking what caused the problem?

The engine we put in Thundercat is substantially more powerful than the stock one it replaced. The Chrysler 318 Industrial was rated at 180 HP @ 4,000 RPM*, but that’s a little misleading. The asterisk states that the HP rating is SAE Gross horsepower. In 1972 auto manufacturers changed the way they rate horsepower and the new methodology was SAE Net. The change from Gross to Net resulted in roughly a 25-30% reduction in stated horsepower. So that 180 figure would drop to about 135 with the change. That number is confirmed to be at least pretty close by the 318’s bigger sibling, the 360 Industrial. That engine was rated at 155 HP using the SAE Net methodology. If you assume similar horsepower per cubic inch, that would mathematically work out to about 137 HP for the 318. Our engine puts out a lot more power...

A byproduct of producing a lot of power is you get a lot of heat…

All Tuckers of this vintage use a hydraulic pump and orbitrol to steer the machine with the use of a hydraulic cylinder. Tucker used flexible rubber covered hydraulic hoses in their hydraulic system installations. Thundercat came with a factory installed six-way blade and Tucker used the same rubber covered flexible hoses for that, too. But all those different hydraulic hoses look like a pile of spaghetti. To make it worse, they "secure" the hoses to the frame with zip ties. To Scott and me it looks okay for a pre-production prototype, but for a production machine it just doesn’t look professional (to put it bluntly). If you look at a piece of construction equipment with multiple hydraulic functions (think of a backhoe or an excavator,) you’ll see short lengths of flexible hoses where the lines need to flex, but everywhere else you'll see rigid steel tubing that’s secured with clamps. In many cases you’ll see multiple lines that are perfectly parallel to each other and the bends in the tubing maintain that geometry throughout. That system looks like it was done by people who cared, as opposed to a rat’s nest of rubber hydraulic hoses. Scott and I completely re-plumbed Thundercat’s hydraulic and fuel systems with a whole lot of rigid steel tubing. It was an extremely labor-intensive sub-project because each line had several bends, and each bend had to have the right amount of bend (number of degrees), and the bend had to be in the right location (along the tube), and it had be oriented correctly radially (around the tube). Where there were multiple lines - they had to be parallel.

In addition to the steering system and the six-way blade, we added a hydraulically powered rear winch, a remote transmission cooler, a remote engine oil cooler, a new fuel supply line and a fuel return to tank line. Every one of these systems has specially bent rigid steel lines. And later on we added a remote hydraulic fluid cooler, which meant still more new rigid steel lines.

We thought that the steel lines would have much better heat transfer than the rubber covered hoses, and all that exposed steel would aid in cooling the hydraulic fluid. But while it may help in cooling the fluid, where the lines are in proximity to the exhaust system, they would similarly cause the fluid to be heated, and this turned out to be a significant problem. To try and reduce under-hood heat we had the exhaust manifolds and the exhaust pipe and muffler ceramic coated. This supposedly can reduce under-hood heat by as much as 30%. We have added some heat resistant coverings to various parts of the wiring harness, and will add a heat shield to the engine’s starter. Some of the rubber hoses connecting to the hydraulic pump will be covered with a product called “Fire Sleeve” and we plan to make some heat shields to cover some of the rigid steel hydraulic lines.

We had located the transmission and engine oil coolers under the rear floor of the cab, but there was no more available space there for another cooler. Tucker had installed an auxiliary cooler in front of the radiator, but we didn’t have room there, either. So the hydraulic fluid cooler is located under the new bed behind the winch. (However the concern right now is the winch cable runs below that cooler, and we need to make certain it can’t contact the cooler.)

I realize this is a really long-winded answer, but your question was a good one, and I wanted to answer it thoroughly.
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Damn. That's top notch. Did you have to do custom icons and wording for the front & rear roof lights, or did Carling already have them?


Honestly I don't remember. I bought the switches and covers from a company called Over The River And Through The Woods (got to be a story there) and they offer a huge number of different switch covers. If they don't have one you want, they'll make one up for you. The fellow I dealt with there, Jim, is fantastic and his customer service is simply awesome.

The covers are easily removed from the switch bodies with a special tool. I bought an extra switch cover as a joke that I'll install on one switch that harkens back to the James Bond movie Goldfinger, and his specially equipped Aston Martin...
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Nice cat, what's the motor?

I was going to wait until it's completely assembled before disclosing that, but we're not that far away...

You've probably heard the saying "There's no replacement for displacement"?

I chose "The Big Kahuna", or "El Hefe" if you prefer; the Chevy 8.1 liter Vortec. If you're an old school guy and think in cubic inches like I do, that equals 496 cubic inches. Mathematically, almost exactly 2 1/2 times the horsepower of the stock 318.

DSC01829.jpg
 

KT3survivor

Active member
damn thats awesome. after watching the videos you posted i was convinced it sounded like a big bad diesel. i love big blocks as much as gas powered engine swapped cats. party on.:coolshade
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
damn thats awesome. after watching the videos you posted i was convinced it sounded like a big bad diesel. i love big blocks as much as gas powered engine swapped cats. party on.:coolshade


Thanks!

I did a LOT of research before selecting the 8.1. I really liked the idea of a Cummins 12 valve, 6BT engine, but it had several drawbacks:

-One was it's size, as-in length. We were determined to also add an automatic transmission in the form of an Allison AT-545. The location of the transfer case is fixed (we absolutely didn't want to move that). Talking to a company that makes driveshafts, the shortest they could make was something like 5 3/16". That then determined the back of the transmission and therefore the engine's placement (front-to back) in the frame. At the time I didn't want to extend the frame as that would require a new hood. (But in the end we built a new hood anyway.)

-Two was weight. The stock 318 is about 525 lbs. Thundercat has a factory six-way blade, and that adds several hundred pounds to the front. The Cummins 6BT weighs more than twice the 318 at 1,100 lbs, and every ounce is on the front axle. The 8.1 isn't a lightweight at 761 lbs, but that's almost 350 less than the Cummins.

- There were other issues too, but those are the big ones.

In terms of the 8.1 compared to other gasoline engine options, the decision really came down to torque and ease of swap. There is a lot of information available on Chevrolet engine swaps and most parts can be found without too much trouble, or expense. Chevy LS series engines are becoming increasingly popular for swaps and Hot Rod magazine had this to say about the 8.1 "They make more torque at 800 RPM than a factory LS1 produced at any point in its RPM range".
 

Nikson

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Well, now that I'm in the same boat - I'm watching/reading your threads very thoroughly :)

Probably biggest viewer of your Youtube videos, love the sound on that 8.1L.
 

Nikson

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
and anyone reading this thread - I have access to a laser to engrave "things" - so if needed, I can assist on some custom work if one desires. DM me for details, I'm sure it wont cost you an arm-n-leg as well... :)

main deal - make a file that I can use, what is the biggest time consumption, otherwise number change a bit...
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Well, now that I'm in the same boat - I'm watching/reading your threads very thoroughly :)

Probably biggest viewer of your Youtube videos, love the sound on that 8.1L.

Thanks. I'm glad you like the videos. We're having an epic snow year and unfortunately we're still reassembling the machine and not out playing in it. Hopefully it'll be done soon....

To illustrate the differences in snowfall, here's a photo taken during one of the testing days. This is at about 10,600' in elevation very close to Bald Mountain in Utah. Note the small trees just to the right of the Tucker sticking out of the snow.

Screen Shot 2018-03-10 at 11.11.48 AM.jpg

Last March in the same spot. Look at those rocks, too.

IMG_1381.jpg
 

toyrocs

New member
[/FONT][/COLOR]A byproduct of producing a lot of power is you get a lot of heat…




Great work, My related experience with heat control is with my 4 wheeled snow machine ( Toyota PU on 49" IROKS running 1.5 PSI in the tires in very deep snow). A lot of power (BTUs) being used to go less than 2 MPH. Cooks everything that is close to the exhaust system. Wrapping or sleeving fluid lines/ transmission control cables with heat resistant covers did not work. The final fix to keep my transmission control cable from melting was to route cable thru larger diameter Scat tubing ( cable does not touch the ID of the Scat Tube). Leave the Scat tube ends open to allow for cooling ( cooler air) to flow thru. Additionally I installed aluminum heat shield between exhaust pipe and control cable.
 

Nikson

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
[/FONT][/COLOR]A byproduct of producing a lot of power is you get a lot of heat…




Great work, My related experience with heat control is with my 4 wheeled snow machine ( Toyota PU on 49" IROKS running 1.5 PSI in the tires in very deep snow). A lot of power (BTUs) being used to go less than 2 MPH. Cooks everything that is close to the exhaust system. Wrapping or sleeving fluid lines/ transmission control cables with heat resistant covers did not work. The final fix to keep my transmission control cable from melting was to route cable thru larger diameter Scat tubing ( cable does not touch the ID of the Scat Tube). Leave the Scat tube ends open to allow for cooling ( cooler air) to flow thru. Additionally I installed aluminum heat shield between exhaust pipe and control cable.



sidenote/being a member of the #5PSICLUB and under


I run 37s on my 4dr Wrangler, AUTO, all stock on engine/tranny, regeared/locked/beadlocks, etc., do get "warm" but never hot while snowwheeling with whatever snow I can push, and with my luck I can push a lot of it at times... #1 question from my youtube viewers is about the heat, yet I've never ran into that problem with any of my rigs, much less to the point of melting cables and such...

Are you pushing your Yota Crawler hard in your opinion, or just runs hot in general!?


p.s. dont mean to steal the thread :)
 

Nikson

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Thanks. I'm glad you like the videos. We're having an epic snow year and unfortunately we're still reassembling the machine and not out playing in it. Hopefully it'll be done soon....


All I can say is that this year has definitely caught up on the snow amounts after 2nd week of February, we were at 67% annual snowfall in PNW in general by end of January from what I heard, and now, I think we at average or even above possibly.

Last year was plentiful also, but it spread out throughout the winter more.
 

toyrocs

New member
#1 question from my youtube viewers is about the heat, yet I've never ran into that problem with any of my rigs, much less to the point of melting cables and such...

Are you pushing your Yota Crawler hard in your opinion, or just runs hot in general!?


Ill try to keep to the point about heat control / mitigation. Pushing 3 to 5 feet of soft snow in any sort of wheeled or tracked vehicle is going to take a lot of BTUs. My tires when aired down are over 24" wide ( each tire!). Engine coolant temps are always in control ( never rise) but oil temps do rise a lot in deep snow. Yes i do extreme snow crawling and i'm very hard on my rig. First gear effective crawl ratio is 427:1!!!

With very low or no forward speed to aid in cooling parts of the vehicle, all those sensitive parts will have no cooling airflow! Remember the engine driven radiator fan is to cool the radiator and maybe a few parts on the forward side of the engine. It is not delivering cooling air to parts further aft in the vehicle.

All that is left for cooling those parts, is local ambient air temperature ( Delta T)/ possible splash from water or snow impingement which are not reliable cooling methods for most applications. Therefore the need for shielding. BTW i'm still in the design phase of my resto-mod ( extremely modified Thiokol 2100). ( fingers crossed). Cheers. Desmond
 

Blackfoot Tucker

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
[/FONT][/COLOR]A byproduct of producing a lot of power is you get a lot of heat…




Great work, My related experience with heat control is with my 4 wheeled snow machine ( Toyota PU on 49" IROKS running 1.5 PSI in the tires in very deep snow). A lot of power (BTUs) being used to go less than 2 MPH. Cooks everything that is close to the exhaust system. Wrapping or sleeving fluid lines/ transmission control cables with heat resistant covers did not work. The final fix to keep my transmission control cable from melting was to route cable thru larger diameter Scat tubing ( cable does not touch the ID of the Scat Tube). Leave the Scat tube ends open to allow for cooling ( cooler air) to flow thru. Additionally I installed aluminum heat shield between exhaust pipe and control cable.


Thanks for your comments/suggestions.

We ran our electrical wiring through nylon split tube and in some high heat areas the split loom melted a bit (maybe de-formed is a better word). We have added various heat protective sleeves in the high heat areas, which will hopefully offer some protection.

The exhaust system literally is placed in the engine compartment before the engine is installed, and then is bolted up to the exhaust manifolds after the engine is in place. I mentioned earlier we had the system ceramic coated which supposedly should reduce the radiated heat. We did use an exhaust wrap in the areas where the pipe is in close proximity to the oil pan. We haven't made them yet, but we also plan to add some stainless steel shields to protect some other items from the heat.
 
Top