• Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/

Astro van cat conversion

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

Progress is happening, but slowly.

Picked up the CV hub that will become the center drive shaft adapter yesterday from the heat treater's

I had them anneal the bowl area so I can drill and tap it to fasten on a drive shaft flange on.

They were able to get it back to about 20 RC hardness, which will be within reason to drill and tap.

I have decided to do a complete air system for controlling the OC12 bands as well as horns and other annoying accoutrement's

The air source had to be reliable, so after some looking I discovered a company that builds a nice pump based on the Sanden AC pump.

With the power steering pump and steering box off the van chassis there is plenty of room to install the air pump in the space left.

The pump uses a electro magnetic clutch (AC TYPE)

Because this set up is not the rugged type stuff I am used to on class 8 trucks I decided to add two 100% duty cycle electric pumps to make a triple redundant air system.

With the issue of steering pretty well nailed down the issue of variable brake application came to mind.

Decided to use a double check valve in each brake band circuit and then run air from a standard single circuit brake application valve to the check valves and then to the air chamber on the OC12

The steering pressure will be high enough to lock the band and the braking pressure will be variable so braking will be controlled.

The double check on each feed line will determine what happens.

If the brakes are applied to slow down (Say 10 psi) and steering is needed and steering is activated (Pressure of 60 psi or?? fixed pressure) will override the braking and shuttle the double check on the side that's being asked to steer and fully activate the band.

With a quick release valve on each brake chamber the band action will respond fast enough for the speed this rig will operate.

Two small air valves with spring return to zero will mount on the top of the steering wheel adapter flange to run the steering.

Picked up a used Sanden SD508 compressor yesterday to get after modifying the LH serpentine bracket on the V6 to accept the pump.

The drive line offset issue has been figured out now and pretty well looks good.

I want to use as much off the shelf (Easy to get) u joints and parts as possible.

I do not want to get into specialty u joints/ CV shafts and custom house parts that are not an item that can be purchased locally.

Weather is still a negative issue as far as any serious work outdoors goes, but at this point it's far better to be getting the build drawings done and a good bill of materials knocked out.

Starting to get a pile of parts in the corner with more items coming.

Getting excited. :biggrin:
 

mkntrakes

Active member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

So am I understanding this right you are collecting all these parts to build something and you don't have a differential ????????????????
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

Diffy located and a deal in the works.

You have one that needs a new home ???

I have had access to one recently to get important info from as far as dimensions and a good feel for the general layout.

Sadly it is the wide stance version and it is not for sale.

But I have a good standard one coming.

It will be summer before it arrives.

Armed with a lot of good data from available specs on both the Thiokol 1200 and 2100 and on the van there is a lot of parts that can be gathered and a lot of engineering work that can be done.

A big thanks to Wannagoflying for some fabulous tech on the Spryte 1200

I wish I could snap my fingers an make all the goodies I need appear POOOOOF, but the weather and location of stuff is making patience imperative.

I am not one to head out to the shop and start beating on the iron before a decent set of working drawings are reasonably complete and critical numbers checked.

Anything with the van portion of the project can be worked with and engineering done.

The parts gathered so far are basic items that have lot of latitude in their usage.
Components for the air system
Drive shaft components that will readily adapt to those used with the van.
Tracks located and deal made.
Diffy located and deal made.

I will not stock pile the steel tubing for the cat frame until the Diffy and tracks are in my physical possession.

Once those two key components obviously make it all go.

In the mean time there are a large amount of small items on the bill of materials that can be procured and set aside.

Small amounts of $$ spread out over time makes the cost easier to work with.

Some of the engineering issues are quite time consuming and take hours to find just what I want in the way of parts at affordable prices.

The goal for the coming summer is to get the tracks and the diffy home and a new concrete slab poured out front of the shop to build on.

Our one large building with a slab has hay storage in the back for horses, and this kills its use for any welding or grinding.

That's about the long and the short of it.

Still enjoying the project, even if it is not moving fast.

Once the diffy and tracks are on site I am comfortable that the sub frame can be fabricated in a weekend. (Not completed, but the basics welded together)

Once the frame is done, getting the van on top will be relatively easy.

One piece at a time :biggrin:
 
Last edited:

undy

New member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

What I don't quite have a handle on is the worry about cutting the tracks down to do what I need.
Who, me worry?:yum:

I may speak for others when I say that I'm a bit skeptical that anyone can design the ultimate snowcat from scratch, and then construct it on a shoestring. I'm sure Tucker intended to do so from the start, but they sure changed as time went on. Please prove me wrong, and you'll have everyone here begging you for details.

It won't matter a whit to me personally whether you cut down those tracks, but as you yourself pointed out:

I am well aware of the OH and other train wrecks.

That is precisely why I am going over as many details as possible before it costs $$$$$
It's said that: "A smart man learns from his mistakes. A wise man learns from the mistakes of others."

Avoiding "costs $$$$$" is exactly why I bothered making the suggestion. If you cut 'em down and succeed with building a super-cat, great. But if you cut them down and for some unforeseen reason don't end up using them as planned, they will be worth less than uncut tracks to try and resell. Either way, won't effect me.

Cut now or cut later and the results will be the same.
Exactly, so what's the rush?

Please, do as you like. No worries on my part. :whistling:
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

Not even trying to build a "Super Cat"

Just want a reasonably well functioning toy is all.

If $$$$ were flowing easily I would still pinch pennies and scrounge, it is what I do.

Most folks here have heard of or watched the TV Show "American Pickers"

Back in the 1960's my folks got involved with the then new craze of Garage sales.

My father was between jobs at the time (He was a machinist, welder, fabricator, tool and die maker) and a fellow he met during his previous job had gotten him interested in the "buying and selling" game.

The folks teamed up with a local auction house and did the "picking" and the auction sold the goods.

Antiques such as tables, chairs, glass, china yada yada yada.

You name it and it went through here at some time.

As a youngster I learned the picking game and how to buy, sell trade and so on.

The techniques have served me well over the years and now that I am retired it is a plus.

I spent over 20 years in heavy trucking, not because it was lucrative, but because I loved the work.

With some serious health issues having cropped up in 2012 (Cancer and a stroke) I gave up trucking and retired.

Retirement is boring.

Living on a fixed income makes planning projects tedious at best.

Buy sell trade.

The goal is not to build anything better than the big boys (MAJOR CAT MFG) do or have done, but simply to build a cool toy.

Many van cats have been built by others and each is unique to it's builder/owner and their creative ability.

It really does not matter if the outcome is better or ???? than any other, but it is my creation and toy.

Obviously the results will not approach the benchmark of machines the likes of Pisten Bully, Prinoth, Tucker, or any currently built Groomers that can cost in excess of $100,000

It is a toy, nothing more.

Back in the 80's I bought a 40 foot GMC coach used at auction and converted it to a motor home.

Tons of these have been done and commercially built ones are available with costs in the mega thousands of $$$

It was my creation and we enjoyed it for many years.

Bought the rig for $3000 at a bus auction up in Portland
Did the interior and painted it.

Completed it for about $15000 total $$

We used it from 1986 to 1993 and sold it when we built our new place here at the ranch.

In 1995 I bought a new big rig and was just too busy hauling and had zero time for much other than trucking.

In the early days Dad and I fielded a Drag boat or two and had fun building those.

All of these toys were "Shoe string budget" projects.
All worked great and a good time was had by all.

We even won a few races and met a lot of great folks along the way.

During the time we had the coach we traveled some and again, met tons of great folks.

I hope the cat project will be as successful as past projects and that we can meet a lot of great folks.

So far I have spoken with some of the members here and hope to meet in person as time goes by.

Just want to have a fun toy.
 

Attachments

  • GM Coach.jpg
    GM Coach.jpg
    88.5 KB · Views: 478
Last edited:
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

in one of your planning stages you have said that the motor is staying in the van body--I really hope you can turn the transfer case down and use it as a drop box---using a mini van to build this thing sounds to be about as long as my sv200----and you are going to need some kind of drop box-----I see you were asking about some tracks from a br100 here in new York-----your van mounted above a set of short tracks like u will need a drop box------there is a pack master on Albany ny cl. 3500.00---there is all the parts you need to get started-----tracks in cato ny all your parts in one trip----hell just put your van body on the pack master and go
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

A drop box would be sweet, sadly they are not easily in the offing.

The plan is to angle the cat diffy upward at the pinion a bit and use a two piece drive shaft arrangement.

The van engine/tranny are offset to the right about 5 inches adding to the issues.

PLAN.

As mentioned, point the diffy up at the nose.

I have an Astro front drive spindle that will lend itself readily to be modified to become a center shaft bearing and drive shaft adapter, plus a great mounting for the drive shaft safety brake.

First shaft coming from the diffy will be a nice reasonable angle up to the center support.

The center support will be in the same plane as the crank, tranny, T case except be on center line of the rig.

SEcond drive line will attach via the slip yoke to the rear of the NP233C T Case and then angle to the center support.

As long as there is not a compound angle on the shafts/joints then life will be great.

The little V6 with this build is pretty benign when it comes to torque, plus all the reduction through the rear axle and track sprockets and life will be fine.

Hmmmm

I don't remember asking about BR 100 tracks ????

Been looking for 3 foot Spryte tracks and currently have a set of 2100 tracks available.

The Packmaster is wide.
I am real tight on keeping symmetrical tracks and an O A of 102"

NY is a tad out of my stomping grounds, at least as far as driving goes.

I am south of Portland Oregon about 25 miles.

Helluva road trip for sure.

A 2100 close by would interest me though as it can be narrowed up.

The mini van thing is interesting, but there are a few caveats that have presented along the way.

Still working on a diffy.

Patience is a virtue I could use more of :brows:
 
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

how long do u think your drive shaft will be------and again a pack master is a pack master----tracks can be 10 feet wide------wheel center to center is the same on all machines----they didn't make different frames / wheel c to c for different tracks----I just looked up my sv 200 its 11 feet long---a sv250 is about 12 feet----so your van is about the same----so think about this---if your motor tranny and t case take 6 feet your rear end from axle center to yoke center 12 inches----drive shaft will be maybe 4 feet at the most and with this van sitting above the tracks with like 6 inches of clearance and your axle center to top of track 1 foot---and the tranny tucked up in body 6 inches like a 2 foot drop min. in maybe 4 feet or less----ouch-----he is my new summer ride iam building I have about 1 foot drop in 5 feet and it seams a lot even with a carrier 2 feet out splitting the drop
 

Attachments

  • 7500 dually 014.jpg
    7500 dually 014.jpg
    80 KB · Views: 454

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

Sweet ride.
I like the Dahoooooley box on top. Class, class.
I am a GM FREAK.

Once we get closer on the Franken cat the true dimensions will come into view far more readily.

There are high angle 80 degree shafts made, but by changing the pinion angle some can really help a bunch.

As long as the diffy is not twisted waaaaaaaaaay up towards the moon things will be ok.

A drop box would be sweet.

I wonder if anything exists that can bolt to the back end of an NP233C CASE.

Anything can be built, buuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuut ????

A 12 inch drop or so would really help things.
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

Just had a thought....:biggrin:

Using a second NP233
Build a bracket to bolt to the cat frame and take the second NP233 and bolt it in with the front output facing rearward and straight down or better yet, down and towards the center to negate that offset of the drive train.

Connect the output of the case in the van to what is normally the output of the second case (Now a drop box)

Use the front output shaft from the second case to feed power to the rear.

This is a convoluted contraption, but might work sweet.

Possibly a slightly stronger T case like a 241.

Use the 4 high position and the case will transmit the drive straight on through.

Might be a very inexpensive way to solve some serious issues.

Not sure how well the oiling will work with the case stood on end though.

Gonna give it some thought and see what I can dig up.
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

Did some research on T cases

An NP208 with a passenger side drop (EARLY GM) if spun around backwards will place the formerly front output shaft facing rear and drop it a fair amount as well.

I found a couple local for very cheap with the heavy cast adapter stool.

One of these can be readily used to adjust the Safari drive train offset and gain some on that big drop to the rear diffy.

To get the offset dealt with the clocking on the adapter/mount can be redrilled to get the (formerly front output) right smack on the centerline of the rig.

With this the drive shaft angle to the rear will be great reduced.

The former input which will be facing the rear now (inside the adapter stool) can be capped with a plate.

Case placed in 4 high and input the old output and then connect the drive shaft to the cat rear end.

Great way to get this bagaboo "outadaway"

Red neck drop box eh ????:yum:
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

Well I found the caveat with the 208 (other than the usual bad press)

Running the case backwards will not run the internal oil pump.

That shoots the plan in the foot real quick.

Butttttt, a big azz 205 T case can be run any way you want and be happy as a clam.


Looking for a 205 case.

These are plentiful and not real spendy.

Another plus is that the 205 is virtually indestructible.

Don't have to worry about it being the fuse. :yum:
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

More research and some chatting with a buddy in the Ag machinery business.
The fella builds custom spray buggies from "Kibbles and Bits"

He gave me a good low down on the Various T Cases and what will work.

Back to the 208.

Found a low mile one from a roll over wreck (Rig was rolled off a bank)

The plan adds an electric gear type fuel pump to feed oil to the internal oil pump of the 208.

After seeing the idea up close on a case, things started happening.

The 208 will deal handily with the needed drop and centering of the output shaft.

The drive train basics are definitely moving ahead.


Found this cool video yesterday while surfing.

A Weasel with a 302 Ford V8 and C4 ford auto tranny.
This little rodent flat hauls azz.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qx0zhoqF4iQ&t=5s
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

Bad news troops.

Yesterday the Deep well here at the ranch (800ft) had serious issues and is in the process of getting repaired.

The cost is going to be in the many thousands of $$$
The last time we had issues with that deep Azz sucker was 10 years ago and it stuck me for $9K

So for the foreseable future my cat project is shelved.

The well has to get fixed.

Been fun troops.

Good luck to all of you.

Snowy
 

Northcoast

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

Having water is always 1st. (next is the septic)! Enjoyed following your project.
 

zekeusa

Bronze Member
SUPER Site Supporter
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

I have a '97 GMC Yukon for a donor vehicle. Thanks for the great idea!
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

THANKS TROOPS

MAYBE SOMEDAY.

I listed the van on Craig'S List this morning.

No sense in having it sitting around.

It will be a couple years to dig out from this train wreck.

Gonna take my leave now.

Thanks for the fun.

Snowy
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

Hi all.

WEll WAS FIXED and things are getting back to normal.

I'm back on the trail again with the same Ideas as before.

I sold the Van I had and made a bunch of $$$ off the sale that helped a bunch on the cost of the well.


I still have some of the goodies I had collected and that's a a good thing, and yesterday I popped an ad on Craig's list to scare up another Astro/Safari van.

Just gotta get back to work on this project before I get too old and or decrepit:yum:


Too soon to say much other than the plan is about the same.
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

Yesterday saw some good things happen.

Scored a nice 97 Astro van RWD.. So now we are officially back in the groove again.

Around these parts folks seem to think these vans are GOLD
Looked at several in the early 90's that were just Chit boxes and they were priced in the $5000 and up range.:ohmy:

These things were just trash.

Got this widdle jewel for $1500..

Lotsa cushy inside... Gonna make for a sweet ride.


As of last week things are looking like we have a Weasel diffy in the offing..
Still waiting for an absolute on the diffy, but its sounding like a go...

Some pix of the Donor..

CATVAN II :thumbup:
 

Attachments

  • van4.JPG
    van4.JPG
    314.8 KB · Views: 559
  • VAN2.JPG
    VAN2.JPG
    373.8 KB · Views: 551
  • VAN1.JPG
    VAN1.JPG
    393.7 KB · Views: 552
  • VAN3.JPG
    VAN3.JPG
    268.9 KB · Views: 543

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

More good news...

The ongoing deal with the Weasel rear axle has jelled and we will get it here in a month or so.

There has been mention of the Weasels having weak axle shafts ...

The axle tubes are a bit too short for what I need, so am thinking about taking the tubes off of a chevy 3/4 ton rear axle and adding a custom end flange that will bolt to the Weasel center section.

Once the Sprocket center to center distance is achieved then a fresh set of shafts can be whipped up to fit.

There is an axle shop close that I spoke with and they can do the custom shafts very reasonable.


BOTTOM LINE

I can end up with a very nice custom setup for very little $$$$$

Also I wanted a transfer case to act as a drop box/side shift box (Astro drive train is offset about 5 inches to the RH side

I found a nice NP203 case the other day that's in lovely shape for nearly nothing .

The case seems to have had the full time swapped with a kit to part time which is of no real worry to me.

Going to use the case by driving the (What was) FRONT output and then using the rear output to feed the Weasel Axle.

All standard yokes... so that is nice.

I have not had time to measure the Weasel axle input yoke, so not sure what u joint it uses..

Studebaker used what was standard I would think... HOPE...


Anyway.

Things are coming together fast this time.

Looking to scare up a 3/4 ton full float rear axle to scarf the tubes and hubs off of.

Building the new axle tubes will be a snap.

My lathe is big enough to handle the job easily.

So...

All for now..
 

sno-drifter

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

I would go with a 205 transfer case with gear drive instead of the 203 with chain drive. 205's are cheap as they seldom fail.

$.02
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

HI

Yessss
The 205 is pretty much bomb proof..

They are scarce around here and when they do surface they seem to be GOLD PLATED

I got the 203 for $50 and its in great shape.

The chain does not worry me much.

I had a FORD F250 with one in it and HUGE tires powered by a 427 FE series pumping out a bunch of power and never had any issues at all.

Real sure that the little V6 in the van is not gonna stress things much.

I was trying to find a 205 but just way too much $$$$$$ for an unknown condition.
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

Gaining on things

Van came home today and I got some topside pics.

For having sat for 9 years the beast drove out really great.

Just need to get the Weasel home and see what sort of shape the gear box is in and then things can start heading in a good direction.

Only caveat is the Weasel is sitting under a bunch of snow at present.

April...depending on the weather.
 

Attachments

  • VAN5.JPG
    VAN5.JPG
    147.4 KB · Views: 477
  • VAN6.JPG
    VAN6.JPG
    148.7 KB · Views: 478
  • VAN7.JPG
    VAN7.JPG
    158 KB · Views: 471

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my projec With the 5 inch offset in the center of thet.

Good things happening here.

Really got serious on the drawing board and got down to serious details on the drive train.

With the 5 inch offset in the center of the engine/trans/rear axle the questions kept haunting me as to how I was going to get the drive shaft down from the 4L60E to the Weasel rear axle pinion yoke.

Making one single drop was just going to be a pain, since the high angle double cardan u joint sets do not not come with a slip yoke for the 27 spline that's in the rear of the tranny.

If a 1350 setup is used, then there are tons of options.

Sitting here thinking last night and a possible option came to mind.

We have an extra GMC M211 6X6 sitting out in the yard thats a parts rig, and it has a complete forward rear drive axle with the pillow block still there.

The pillow block is a cast steel housing that bolts to a welded on bracket and it has a through shaft with two herky bearings and flange yokes that are 1350 bolt pattern.

YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS.

The truck is a 1953 and was sold at auction years ago and the bed removed and the power train sold off.

We got the truck cheap to use for parts for our two runners.

I spent the afternoon arguing with the bolts to get that pillow block off the truck.

3 hours and lottsa Skunk pizz and generous bleeding (mine) the little prize is off and on the bench.

Here is a pic of one thats clean to see wassssssup.

A nice bracket on the cat sub frame will allow the pillow block to be located in the proper relationship to allow a nice drop using the Astro rear drive shaft.

The Astro uses the 3R GM u joints and an adapter joint is readily available that is 3R X 1350

A 1350 flange yoke accepts the 1350 side of the u joint that will go in the rear of the Astro drive shaft (Shaft may end up a bit shorter...not absolutely sure yet.

The flange yoke bolts right to the flange on the pillow block.

Then we can use a shorter CV shaft to connect to the rear flange of the pillow block and then to the pinion on the Weasel rear unit.

Depending on the final pinion angle and location of the diffy the CV may not be needed.

I have a lovely front shaft from a 95 Suburban that had a bad joint and it ended up in my pile of goodies.

This 3R jointed shaft can easily be fitted with a couple 3R to 1350 u joints and be used.

Again the length may require some pruning.

Been there done that many times over the years to make shafts for my 4x4 trucks.

These recent revelations are certainly not down to the final few thousands of an inch, but the time spent under the rig the past couple days yielded enough good dims to confirm the basics are in the ball park.

Being able to use the factory drive shaft from the van and the left over Burb shaft will save many $$$$ to use elsewhere...

AS mentioned, the piccy of the pillow block was one I scared up as mine needs a bath.

NOTICE THE FLANGES ARE NOT INDEXED CORRECTLY, AND THE ARE OFF.

Somebody had one or both flanges off the shaft and did not index them right.

The side thats on the bottom in the piccy has a machined flange and four 5/8" tapped holes to mount the beast.

Inside are two big ball bearings, two seals, big shaft and the two 1350 end flanges.

A ready made solution to my problem that was already paid for.
 

Attachments

  • PILLOW BLOCK.JPG
    PILLOW BLOCK.JPG
    16.2 KB · Views: 431
Last edited:

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

Got the tools all over the pillow block I yarded off the 6x6 yesterday.

Got it all apart and it is in fabulous shape.

The seals were a real PITA to get extricated from the end caps.

3/4 inch thick metal clad seal the were glued into the covers.

The Deuces were designed for fairly deep water FORDING.

Bearings are smooth as a babies butt and that shaft is not gonna give up with the widdle V6 reefing on it, not even...


Going to wash things all up, install new seals and refill with some good grease.

This bad boy will handle the twin drive shafts with ease.

Likely could have left the thing alone, but I want my hands into anything this old thats not previiously worked on in recent times.


Here is what I found
 

Attachments

  • PB8.JPG
    PB8.JPG
    387 KB · Views: 430
  • PB7.JPG
    PB7.JPG
    412.2 KB · Views: 423
  • PB6.JPG
    PB6.JPG
    413.7 KB · Views: 423
  • PB5.JPG
    PB5.JPG
    246.6 KB · Views: 422
  • PB4.JPG
    PB4.JPG
    249.8 KB · Views: 413
  • PB3.JPG
    PB3.JPG
    428.7 KB · Views: 415
  • PB2.JPG
    PB2.JPG
    329.3 KB · Views: 417
  • PB1.JPG
    PB1.JPG
    310.3 KB · Views: 416

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

I got the new seals for the pillow block coming ... they are inch size rather than metric (Which is common in automotive use) and we had to order them...be here Monday.

The lovely flanges are a standard version of the 1350 series of flange (These were made specifically for the GMC M211 6X6)... I scared up the correct 4 bolt mating flange that will interface with the flange on the pillow block.

This combination will allow the use of the stock Astro rear driveshaft (Other than possibly needing to shorten the shaft a bit)

The Astro (This year) uses a good old standard Spicer 1350 joint

Note*****

I mentioned earlier that the van used the GM3RL joint

THIS VAN DOES NOT.

At any rate the parts so far are all pretty off the shelf stuff..

I also mentioned using a shaft from a 95 Burb to fit between the pillow block and the Weasel axle.

Very possible a change here.

Looking through the shop I found a complete front drive shaft with the CV joint and bolt up flange from an 89 Doge 250

Excellent shape and will buy some latitude on the mounting of the Weasel rear axle in regards to the pinion angle.

With the CV at the rear of the pillow block the angle of the Weasel can be quite variable as the CV will allow the rear joint to take care of itself.

May have to tweak the Weasel pinion angle up a bit to make everything happy.

Getting some fairly good dims on driveshaft angle is a godsend now and will make my frame fab work much easier come summer.


Sadly I don't have any more shafts laying around...but the parts I have will suffice and are off the shelf items (Except the M211 pillow block)


Got the vans heater fixed ... Vacuum hose broken in many places.

Once the heater was was working the check engine lamp went out too ...SWEEEEEEEEET

The vacuum leak was keeping the computer from allowing the system to go into closed loop and was running extremely rich... COUGH COUGH NASTY

The engine runs extremely smooth too.

Check the tranny fluid and it was not on the stick...took nearly 2 quarts to get it happy.

A leaking cooler line at the radiator connection was the culprit ...DRIP DRIP DRIP


Getting these little issues handled now will save me a bunch of work later on

Once the van goes onto the subframe I really don't want to have to fix crap on the bottom.


Thinking strongly about replacing the starter and a few other things while they are easy to get at... (Relative term)


That's about it for now...
 
Re: An introduction/hello and my project.

I have question----it sounds like your leaving the motor in the van and hooking it to what ever mess u build into the chassis/running gear-------------how the hell will u ever work on that thing under the van-----if you ever blow a shaft out in the snow how will you fix it ----dig a tunnel-------I had to change a u-joint out on the trail when I had my sv-252---lifted the rear floor and changed it(simple)---I have a sv-200 that iam getting ready to put a cab over on it and its going to tip like they do when on the truck---most cats have skid pans also---pain in the ass to pull on the trail broken down----I have a geo tracker and a Suzuki x-90 on tracks when I take eather out hitting the bars I never shut them off----the starter will freeze and the doors freeze also----so if u ever get this thing going----don't shut it off unless your home or by a heat gun----lol
 
Top