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Calling the

Cowboyjg

Country Club Member
Site Supporter
Brain trust....


I'm haveing a problem with the Willys. I want to repair it my self. I don't think it's going to be a big deal so I thought I would pick the brains of our resident auto repair enthusiasts here to help me work through it and in turn get a little edgemacation in the process.

Here goes.

1962 Willys pickup. Flathead 6. Hurricane 226.

Went to start the truck. Hadn't done so in about a month...:bonk:
choked the engine as usual...had to pump the crap out of the pedal which is very unusual. I figured that the carb was dry and because it had been so long between starts that was that. Engine turned, after about 15 pumps the engine starts and runs....briefly, then dies. tried this a couple of times with the same results. Hmmmm. Removed the air cleaner and visually checked the carb. Nothing odd except that it seamed dry.

I removed the whole fuel filter. It's a glass bowl w/ spring loaded filter. Wanted to check for debris and such. So I put it back together and attempt to start the truck. I got it so it would run long enough for me to get under the hood and play with the throttle some in an effort to identify potential problems.

Things I noticed....

The engine would start and run choked for a few seconds.

I could rev the engine once or twice and then it would die.

If I tried to take the choke off it would die.

Only once, right after I cleaned and checked the filter, did I get it to run for several minutes before it died.

If I primed the carb with fuel (Small amount poured in the top) I could get it to start w/o having to pump the crap out of the pedal.

My first thought is fuel flow. Beyond that I'm lost for a clue. The gas isn't really that old. I use Stabil in all my fuel. The filter was actually in good shape and there was no sediment in the bowl. I guess there could be some shellacing of the parts in the carb. I don't have a problem taking it/things apart but I think a sense of order would be helpful.

I hope I've explained myself clearly enough. I'm sure I may have left out some info on what I've done or haven't so fire away with the questions and any advice you would be willing to share.


A multitude of gratitude...:flowers:


John
 

ghautz

Bronze Member
Site Supporter
Faulty fuel pump?

Can you see fuel being injected into the throat of the carburetor when the accelerator linkage is moved?
 

mla2ofus

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
In these times of high prices,could someone have siphoned the tank empty? If not,make sure the pump is working as ghautz said.
Mike
 

Cowboyjg

Country Club Member
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Faulty fuel pump?

Can you see fuel being injected into the throat of the carburetor when the accelerator linkage is moved?

When I put the filter bowl back it was empty. The filter is attached right at the carb. The pump down below had to be working because the bowl filled up which it needed to do before going into the carb.

Sounds like varnish in the carb.

Yea...I was thinkin the same thing. Can you splane me the dynamics of that dave?

In these times of high prices,could someone have siphoned the tank empty? If not,make sure the pump is working as ghautz said.
Mike

No fuel was taken.
 

DaveNay

Klaatu barada nikto
SUPER Site Supporter
Yea...I was thinkin the same thing. Can you splane me the dynamics of that dave?

Varnish is the residue from evaporated fuel. This can clog passageways and jets, and cause a lean fuel condition. Usually means a re-build of the carburetor, as the spray cleaners don't do much.
 

Cowboyjg

Country Club Member
Site Supporter
Varnish is the residue from evaporated fuel. This can clog passageways and jets, and cause a lean fuel condition. Usually means a re-build of the carburetor, as the spray cleaners don't do much.

I sorta knew that part. I guess what I want to understand is the corelation between my actions and the results.

Example.....

If I choked the engine and pumped the pedal ALOT after about 15 pumps there would be enough fuel to cause it to start. It would run for a few more seconds (more like 15-20) and then die as if the flow was choked off or better yet it burned the fuel that the pumping had forced into the carb.

I've had this truck for 6 +/- years now and this has never happened before. This is also not the first (although I felt I was pretty good about starting it often enough) time I've let the truck sit for this long before starting it.

Now, I haven't taken it apart, but it seems like there wouldn't be too many parts to a carb on a vehicle this old and this straight forward. I thought about taking it off and apart and soaking/cleaning the metal parts and replacing the rubber and gaskets.

Does this sound reasonable?
 

California

Charter Member
Site Supporter
Runs a few seconds then quits?

The float needle is stuck shut. Pull the carb top, wipe down the needle and the snug tube it fits in with carb cleaner etc.

Run it another 20 years.
 

Cowboyjg

Country Club Member
Site Supporter
Runs a few seconds then quits?

The float needle is stuck shut. Pull the carb top, wipe down the needle and the snug tube it fits in with carb cleaner etc.

Run it another 20 years.

That seems like an easy first try....:thumb:

Hell, it even makes sense....:bonk:

Thanks!
 

California

Charter Member
Site Supporter
I had lots of experience running $50 cars back around the time that thing was built, and I was real poor! The 'standard' remedy was to rap the carb with a wood screwdriver handle to shake the needle loose.

My suggestion was the '20 year guarantee' version.

In 1974 I bought a '54 Willys Wagon that somebody put a Studebaker 259 V8 into. That engine is a near twin to a Chev 265 V8 but it bolts up to the Jeep transmission, so it was a popular conversion back then. But this Willys was so thrashed and rusted it wasn't worth the $500 I paid for it, or the second $500 I spent on brakes, shocks, tires.

I ran the 54 one year, then I got a 56 Willys Wagon with a Ford 292 (school bus/dump truck) V8 in it. HUGE torque. After I limped that one home from the woods with a spiral crack in the bell housing, I gave up old Jeeps and bought a 5 year old Wagoneer - and had much better luck from then on.
 

Doc

Bottoms Up
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
When you prime it does it keep running or does it die as soon as the primer is gone?
 

Cowboyjg

Country Club Member
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When you prime it does it keep running or does it die as soon as the primer is gone?

That's A tricky question Doc.

After the filter removal and replacement, I had to do that to get the bowl to fill.

Generally though...

I got tired of pumping the pedal so I would prime it...it would start....then run for those few seconds...seemingly beyond the prime...then quit.
 

Bulldog1401

Anybody seen my marbles?
SUPER Site Supporter
Its not drawing fuel to run. You are giving it fuel via the accelerator pump only. Which quickly runs out. Disasemble and clean. should work again. My first real truck was a 61 with the 6-226 (hurricane six). 1.5 ton. What a truck.
 

Erik

SelfBane
Site Supporter
Runs a few seconds then quits?

The float needle is stuck shut. Pull the carb top, wipe down the needle and the snug tube it fits in with carb cleaner etc.

Run it another 20 years.

this was my first guess, too - which goes along with the varnish idea, too. fuel evaporated, left sticky residue, stuck float needle.

I had a similar problem with a motorcycle a couple years back. fixed it with a can of starter fluid, a can of carb cleaner, and an afternoon of lost time spraying one, then the other, and revving the throttle.
once you get it running, put some chevron techron in the gas tank and drive around for a bit.

good luck!
 
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