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Snow Trac 1200 to 1600

Nemo

Nemo

Member
1962 1200 shot. I only drove it a few miles at a top speed uphill at 5 mph. I could rebuild it but would it still be under powered or was it slow because the engine was failing? Snow trac is 6 volt and I’m told to put a 1640 in it I would need to find a 6 volt flywheel that would bolt to it. Also the transaxle is the old split case. Would it handle the 1640?
 
JimVT

JimVT

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
I think you can just change the starter to match the flywheel. your going from stale air heaters to the larger better ones. your going to need to cut a section out of them. then weld it upward so it doesn't hit.
i'm sure several pictures have been posted.
jim
 
L

luvthemvws

Active member
The upper cylinder tins of a 1500/1600/1641 are longer and a little different at the intake manifold connection. Using the 1200 tins on the later engine will result in a large cooling air leak. Plus you will need to alter them at the intake manifold connection.
The exhaust/muffler is also a different width.
It'll be easier to start with a complete, later engine and clearance the belhousing for the larger flywheel. Plus the starter and heater box mods mentioned above.
 
JimVT

JimVT

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I converted mine but I was lucky enough to have a transaxle and varator to mount it to while setting on a stand.
 
Nemo

Nemo

Member
luvthemvws said:
The upper cylinder tins of a 1500/1600/1641 are longer and a little different at the intake manifold connection. Using the 1200 tins on the later engine will result in a large cooling air leak. Plus you will need to alter them at the intake manifold connection.
The exhaust/muffler is also a different width.
It'll be easier to start with a complete, later engine and clearance the belhousing for the larger flywheel. Plus the starter and heater box mods mentioned above.
Click to expand...

So should I go with dual port? I’m getting different info from my mechanic. Trying to figure out whats best.
 
redsqwrl

redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
around here the 1600 single port is a rare engine. Off idle torque is the gain.

I converted to dual port. I love everything about it. ( allowed me to gear up to the optional gear set )

I also converted one to subaru liquid cooled, Love that too. I believe the swedes would have used the pushrod subaru engine in the day had they had access to it....
 
JimVT

JimVT

Bronze Member
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I found this picture of when I was building a airhorn for my larger engine. you can see the heater outlet is cut on both sides and welded back on so it fits. a gear reduction starter is a plus. I was able to get a spare transaxle out of storage for my upgrade and it made it easier.
jim
DSC00278.jpg


DSC00235.jpg
 
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L

luvthemvws

Active member
The upgrade to a dual port 1600/1641 tends to have a domino effect. Each change begets another and another.
The most simple would be to put the 1967-1970 (US market) single port heads on a 1600/1641 engine, use the same generation upper cylinder tin, the cooling shroud from your 1200, and modify the lower cylinder tins from the 1200 to fit the later engine. It would also be beneficial to alter your shroud to use the newer engine thermostat system and shutters, but that is part of the domino effect I mentioned.
A dual port upgrade would also likely involve a "dog house" oil cooler and shroud, and this in turn would likely require a new/altered/hand fabricated Air Box...and the upgrades and changes snowball from there.
Let you and your mechanic discuss the possibilities and what they are willing and capable of creating or modifying.
The 1600/1641 will be a very worthwhile improvement so don't be discouraged!
 
JimVT

JimVT

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
luvthemvws said:
The upgrade to a dual port 1600/1641 tends to have a domino effect. Each change begets another and another.
The most simple would be to put the 1967-1970 (US market) single port heads on a 1600/1641 engine, use the same generation upper cylinder tin, the cooling shroud from your 1200, and modify the lower cylinder tins from the 1200 to fit the later engine. It would also be beneficial to alter your shroud to use the newer engine thermostat system and shutters, but that is part of the domino effect I mentioned.
A dual port upgrade would also likely involve a "dog house" oil cooler and shroud, and this in turn would likely require a new/altered/hand fabricated Air Box...and the upgrades and changes snowball from there.
Let you and your mechanic discuss the possibilities and what they are willing and capable of creating or modifying.
The 1600/1641 will be a very worthwhile improvement so don't be discouraged!
Click to expand...

you can take off in 3rd gear but use more fuel.
 
Snowtrac Nome

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
to put in a 1600 based engine only requires grinding out some high spots in the bell housing some vw guys just start the engine and use the flywheel, I have a rare van flywheel for my 1600 that uses the 6 volt ring gear. you are better off modifying the bell housing to use the 12 volt flywheel also I would go with the dual port engine there are more parts available and you can buy new heads as a set for less than getting one single port heads rebuilt. also get new heater boxes and tin its cheap and not worth the hassle of trying to clean and repaint the old stuff. you also want to get repop ss push rod tubes. and you want the dual oil pressure relief case it will hold better oil pressure. if you want I can build a complete engine with a line bored case ready to install for around 3800.00 I have cases ready to go with all new internals.
 
Nemo

Nemo

Member
Your input is greatly appreciated, Snowtrac Nome thanks for that offer but I ordered a 1641 dual port a day before I saw it. You guys are way ahead of me on this stuff enough to give me panic attacks (-: I've got a lot of work to do but am going to try to have some fun with this thing and start work when the snow melts.
 
redsqwrl

redsqwrl

Bronze Member
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I have done what don describes in post number 12.

as jim posted making a air horn is the hardest part, and that is not hard at all.

You will enjoy the process. in the mean time check your timing. it moves easy from stiff oil on start up on cold days. make sure your vaccumn advance is hooked up properly and if the exhaust is open and breathing free, you should be able to make power enouggh to move about.

Bug motors either run or fly apart.

if they are weak it might be as simple as valves that are not adjusted.....

you need a 17 mm flat and phillips and maybe a 10mm wrench to service this rig.

30 minutes to pull the motor. 40 the first time.

You won't believe how simple that rig is when you get to poking at it.
 
Snowtrac Nome

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
if you use a 1600 with the stick oiol cooler you wont have to modify the air intake. if you have whats known as the doghouse oil cooler you will have to modify the cooling air intake. the doghouse style is preferred because it keeps #3 cylinder from running warmer than the others. Again I have the stick type and have never had a problem.
 
Nemo

Nemo

Member
These teeth ok?
 

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Nemo

Nemo

Member
Do I fill the entire front axle cavity with grease? There is a grease fitting. Wondering what purpose?
 
JimVT

JimVT

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Nemo said:
Do I fill the entire front axle cavity with grease? There is a grease fitting. Wondering what purpose?
Click to expand...

the axle has lots of space and if over greased it will get to your brakes . I just do a pump or two and leave it alone.
have you read "it a surprise"? if not it is a good idea. it is like a manual.
we still own the snow tracs shown and lyndon owned I think 17 snow tracs at one time. he has repaired all of them . http://www.forumsforums.com/3_9/showthread.php?t=25189&highlight=Suprise&page=2
 
Nemo

Nemo

Member
Here is a vent beside the heater vent. Nothing was connected, is it fresh air? If so does anyone know where it runs to?
 

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JimVT

JimVT

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GOLD Site Supporter
it is hard to see but you have heater hoses going to each front window. do you have a manual? it shows it.
 
Nemo

Nemo

Member
There are two heater hoses then this which comes out in the cab just above the clutch pedal. I’ll get a manual.
 
Nemo

Nemo

Member
Downloaded manual, doesn’t show it. Another question though, thinking of running exhaust out through skid plate and putting muffler at rear of vehicle to cool motor compartment. Would this cause back pressure problems?
 
Sno-Surfer

Sno-Surfer

Active member
There should be a heater hose connected to that port. It’s not necessary and will heat up just fine using the defrosters. Do you have heat exchangers on the engine?
My two cents on the muffler is to use the stock muffler and run the pipe all the way out the back and then up near the rear door. You should have some tinware that goes over the muffler to help keep that heat out of the engine compartment. If you don’t have that piece it’s easy enough to make out of some flat tin.
 
Snowtrac Nome

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
the snowtrac used a bus muffler if you can get a german built muffler it will fit better, I have also used brazialian built mufflers with good success both only seem to last about 3 years. you can also use a bug muffler and plug off the one port you don't need if you ever open one up you will see that there is no differerence other than the outer shell.
 
Nemo

Nemo

Member
JimVT said:
it is hard to see but you have heater hoses going to each front window. do you have a manual? it shows it.
Click to expand...

Solved. Someone made a y at the window defroster intake and put both heater hoses to it leaving the floor vent open to the engine compartment. ???
 
JimVT

JimVT

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Nemo said:
Solved. Someone made a y at the window defroster intake and put both heater hoses to it leaving the floor vent open to the engine compartment. ???
Click to expand...

a strong defroster is better. I have a fan mounted to blow on the drivers front window. the foot heat really isn't needed for my use. it isn't uncommon what you have. the 1600 will make a big difference.
 
Nemo

Nemo

Member
luvthemvws said:
The upgrade to a dual port 1600/1641 tends to have a domino effect. Each change begets another and another.
The most simple would be to put the 1967-1970 (US market) single port heads on a 1600/1641 engine, use the same generation upper cylinder tin, the cooling shroud from your 1200, and modify the lower cylinder tins from the 1200 to fit the later engine. It would also be beneficial to alter your shroud to use the newer engine thermostat system and shutters, but that is part of the domino effect I mentioned.
A dual port upgrade would also likely involve a "dog house" oil cooler and shroud, and this in turn would likely require a new/altered/hand fabricated Air Box...and the upgrades and changes snowball from there.
Let you and your mechanic discuss the possibilities and what they are willing and capable of creating or modifying.
The 1600/1641 will be a very worthwhile improvement so don't be discouraged!
Click to expand...

I'm being told the only new carburetor is China made. What would you recommend for the 1641?
 
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