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RH Variator bearing issues or:learning to cuss in swedish

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
Everything so far is or has been "bent or deformed" including the owner. If Al's Kristy was anything near this, I know why he has been referred to as Dr RUM.

I just wish the Gentlemen Jack was deductible as a business expense as part of the re-build: "honest, it's synapse solvent" .

Picked up the new bearings and seals today for the variators.

Tom
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
the wife shipped out your shive today pri male so you should see it by wed or thur. I included the race that was on it all ready
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
Sort of an update...
I got back to the project this weekend. Replaced the motor mounts and:

Found the cover for the shifter/ back of transmission has been heavily modified. It is shifted almost 1 inch back and has had 2 inches of height (at the gear shift lever) added. I can only suppose that the transmission was replaced at some point with the wrong one. The gaps resulting from the shift was filled with scraps of flooring material. Now I know why nothing lines up.

Can some one that has an OEM version give me a measure from the clutch rod to the centerline of the shift lever? I want to see where the change is. And the related question is there something I can do short of finding a new transmission. I guess I could turn a new set of bushings to move the powertrain forward an inch, but then the moment arm created will be a source of strain. I could just put it back together as is, but it grinds at not being able to do it right.

I will try to post a couple of pix tomorrow.
 

JimVT

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
in my shop I have a new spare rebuilt trany butted up to a 1600 cc . But it is not bolted up tight. it has a 3" gap because I haven't cut the heat tubes.
what measurments?

DSC00141.jpg

from the very end of the tranny sifter shaft to the clutch connection is 24
DSC00144.jpg
 
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Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
what has been replaced on yours is the transmission with a bug style trans the early snow trac's had a bug transmission, with a van shift tower and the ring gear flipped over. on mine I had to modify mine the same because I wanted to use a sealed shift tower I did a much nicer spacer made out of 1/4 inch aluminum.
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
Don, Jim: Thanks.

So everyone else knows what is going on.
leftmnt.jpg = new engine mount in place left side
Rtmnt.jpg = new mount right side
Shiftcover1.jpg = looking at the cover in it's place, note 1 inch gap at front.
shift.jpg = the transmission and shift tower
shiftcover.jpg = the inside of the cover (after cleaning and painting)

The damage to the original mounts posted earlier is due to failure to remake the end mount and then torquing down the end bolts. Which broke the casting on the end of the transmission. When I loosened the bolts the lower one was free as the casting was being held in place by the bolt.
 

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Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
Has there been any data on van vs bug transmissions as to reliability/ longevity? I would think that the van transmission would be a heavier build. The fact that Don has/had a bug leads me to think not, but I don't know.
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
there is none except for some rare gear ratios there are a few with lower first and reverse gear sets some of the dune buggy guys want them they all have the same direct drive 4 gear. the only way to get a higher final drive ratio is to change ring and pinion sets. ring and pinion needs to be done by a shop with the alignment jugs to hold every thing in place for assembly I've been told it is almost impossible to assemble the transmission with out the jig.
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
Finally getting new parts made. At this rate, I >may< be ready for next Winter.
 

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Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
Did you make any extras?

Sorry, no. I will see if I still have the chunk of steel left over. I still have the jig I made to hold it in the mill for doing the OD.

Any competent machine shop should be able to make them easily. I was maxed out on my lathe and mill setup doing this and had to take light cuts, so it took awhile.
 

Whipper

Member
Thanks for replying. I've always told anybody making parts to always make a few extra, so one will always need one
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
If I had had more steel, I would have. But the chunk was a 'find' in a local scrap yard. I would have had a spare, but the other original failed the flux test.
 
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