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1963 Tucker 443 AMR Resto-Mod

wakeupcall

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
stainless is soft----out of the ? plus cats ive had ---never did a steel tracked tucker---not sure what rides on the stainless-if anything does----but stainless is soft ---wear factor----ouch----just sayin----btw did they ever make the tracks out of stainless----think

Top Welder, Stainless is soft compared to mild steel hot rolled sheet?? What?? The weight of the machine rides on the bottoms of the 4 pontoons when cat is in snow, when driven on hardpack or dirt the weight is more carried on the rollers/rails. As far as I know of the tracks were not made of stainless steel but I could be wrong. The rails are made of 1044 plow steel more of a wear bar. The bottom pans I took off were so rusted that they could not have slid very well on the snow, that is one of the reasons to try Stainless Steel.
 

Pontoon Princess

Cattitute
GOLD Site Supporter
steel pontoons built with stainless steel bottoms seemed to wear okay, with the said, if you choose to use your Tucker Sno-cat like a armored Tank, they would not last as long,

the company even built pontoons entirely out of stainless and again they seemed to have done just fine

and building the shoes for the fiberglass pontoon out of stainless is a good way to go and it does solve issues with the shoes rusting, hopefully, now days, we, as owners, do take better care of our tuckers than those tank commanders of years ago...

ouch, there is no prefect snow cat, they all have weaknesses...
 

wakeupcall

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Here are a few pics of some small plates made for my fiberglass pontoons to help keep nose rail adjuster bolts from embedding into fiberglass. Also made some light mounting brackets for interior lights for those night outings.
 

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Track Addict

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
How are you attaching them to the fiberglass? I did the same and glasses them in but I think mechanical fastener of sorts and glassing up to the face leaving the metal contact surface exposed would have been better.
 

wakeupcall

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
How are you attaching them to the fiberglass? I did the same and glasses them in but I think mechanical fastener of sorts and glassing up to the face leaving the metal contact surface exposed would have been better.

Track Addict, On two or three of the adjuster pads on pontoons it appeared to me that at one time or another they must have used the adjuster to hold nose in place, there were big holes broke through the pontoon. Filled the holes with some type of fiberglass wannabe filler but took to long to harden. So there is not anything to mechanically attach to unless I build a different steel piece, so I found some 2 part fiberglass epoxy that claims to bond to steel. Just did get 4 of them epoxied in place and it acts like it will work good as long as I just use the adjuster to tension track I believe it to be good . Time will tell. Left the face of steel plate bare. Kinda trial and errorat this point but definately 110% better than i had! Hope to get to paint phase this summer, would like to see this cat back in color. Wakeupcall
 

Track Addict

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
I had some punched though also and I think not tightening the 4 nose nuts after adjustment enough had a lot to do with it. Some star internal or external lock washers may be better for biting and hold over the standard locks that are stock. On the nose rails anyway.

My steel plates have held so far but the fiberglass on top did not.
 

wakeupcall

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Good to know, I too had considered fiberglassing over the top. Guess We will try steel with a little orange paint on top. Thanks for your input . :biggrin:
 

wakeupcall

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
New u joints to be installed. Cleaned them up and as soon as I get u joints in then I can paint them . As close as I can figure they are a 7260 series joint .???
 

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Pontoon Princess

Cattitute
GOLD Site Supporter
Here are a few pics of some small plates made for my fiberglass pontoons to help keep nose rail adjuster bolts from embedding into fiberglass. Also made some light mounting brackets for interior lights for those night outings.

tucker inc. made steel plates with ears that bolted onto the studs where the nose rail bolted to, which protected the fiberglass from being damaged by the adjustment bolt, pretty clever...no need to glue the plate onto the fiberglass
 

wakeupcall

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
tucker inc. made steel plates with ears that bolted onto the studs where the nose rail bolted to, which protected the fiberglass from being damaged by the adjustment bolt, pretty clever...no need to glue the plate onto the fiberglass

Pontoon Princess, Have never seen such a thing but it sounds like it would work well. I have been working on transfer case and also new tie rods and tie rod ends. Do believe I finally have them found now to get them gathered up. Also working on front 5th wheel and rearching the leaf springs which seemed a little flat
 

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wakeupcall

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Well I have been working on odds and ends on Tucker. Did get the drivelines finished with new u-joints then had local spring shop reach springs and build new u bolts. Did end up with 4 new tie rod ends and Tucker Inc. Is building 2 new tie rods. Cut angle iron off old drag link cleaned off the welds then slipped a piece of solid bar stock inside then plug welded it in about 8 places seems to be very stout with out all the ugly!! Paint is soon to come.
 

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wakeupcall

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
What was the part number on your tie rod ends?

Davenet, The two left hand threaded ends are Napa ncp 269-2448 and the two righthanded thread are part #b5531 found these at Sierra Tractor in Shingle Springs California. These ends are somewhat a pain to find. And would definitely check dimensions on your ends as these old machines have had lots of different repairs over the last 50 years.The rights are for a John Deere tractor . Good Luck hope this helps.
 

wakeupcall

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Did get my care package from Tucker, the tie rods are awesome alot stronger than original equipment yet look factory not all goobered up with angle iron. The front and rear steps are a perfect addition, thanks Mr. Tom for letting me steal your idea. Thanks again to Clyde Moody and Tucker Corp. for all your help and support on the parts for these older Cats !!
 

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Track Addict

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Did you get those steps from Tucker? Like the ones between the tracks. I find if you park in a right hand turn tough to get in or out of Driver's seat.
 

wakeupcall

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Did you get those steps from Tucker? Like the ones between the tracks. I find if you park in a right hand turn tough to get in or out of Driver's seat.

Track Addict, Yes I did get the steps from Tucker and they fit perfectly and are rock solid when bolted in place. Sometimes it dont take to much to help me get my old body in just a foot hold of any kind. Its a pretty big step without a track to step up or out on for sure!!
 

Track Addict

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Could you post a pic from the back where they mount?

I see the two bolts thru are there ones that go up or is that a c channel that saddles the frame so you just need the two bolts ?
 

wakeupcall

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
I will try and get a picture. It ia an angle iron piece that you bolt through i thought it might need bolted up also but it seems really solid . The rear steps i bolted up through from top to bottom of frame as there were already holes drilled from previous seat belts. Just remembered steps are no longer on cat as iam trying to get ready for paint.
 

wakeupcall

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Well today I decided to Willyize the Tucker by mounting an axe and shovel on the drivers side. Seen an old picture of a 443a with an axe on side and decided to do the same. It will get painted to match body color so it may not be so noticeable. Here are a couple pics.
 

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wakeupcall

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Track Addict, Go right ahead ! I know it is not exactly Tucker issue but my whole project is not stock .Hopefully it comes in handy someday.
 

tom

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Kyle your project is looking good. Time to get ready it will be snowing soon!
 

wakeupcall

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Kyle your project is looking good. Time to get ready it will be snowing soon!

Thanks Tom, I have been working on the Tucker but dont seem to get far. Sent a few parts to a guy to paint and 45 days later went back to get them only to find he knows little about painting!!! So back to the part prep stage cleaning up a total disaster what a pain in the butt. Talked to another guy and he says he is interested in painting it. Fingers crossed.I do not want to set up my shop as a paint booth, but may have too at some point.I dont claim to be an automotive painter but i do know when to cut my losses and quit before i screw up everything. Any way back to sanding, sand blasting and ?? Lots of fun anyway!
 

vintagebike

Well-known member
Gransfors Bruk has been in business making axes since 1906... maybe the Princess knows what Tucker supplied as OEM...could have been from Western Auto , Wards or Sears back then? Bully Tools was just at the White House to show off their 100% made in USA line. Sophie is being slightly refitted for this coming winter in McCall.
 

tom

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Thanks Tom, I have been working on the Tucker but dont seem to get far. Sent a few parts to a guy to paint and 45 days later went back to get them only to find he knows little about painting!!! So back to the part prep stage cleaning up a total disaster what a pain in the butt. Talked to another guy and he says he is interested in painting it. Fingers crossed.I do not want to set up my shop as a paint booth, but may have too at some point.I dont claim to be an automotive painter but i do know when to cut my losses and quit before i screw up everything. Any way back to sanding, sand blasting and ?? Lots of fun anyway!

My neighbors son does custom auto paint work. I can get you his number if you like
 

wakeupcall

Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Started assembly on the pontoons , all painted up and New rails and nose pieces made of 1044 plow steel. The shoes on bottom are made of Stainless. One Down and Three to GO. Have most pieces painted and will start putting back together this winter.
 

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Track Addict

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Beautiful parts. Do two of the tie rod ends have nyloc vs castle nuts?

I know fishing those cotter pins out of the tables and any potential tightening on the machine is real hassle.

Hope that is another idea I can steal if my train of thought makes sense? Seems like you could tighten those tapers better without the cotter pin and castle line up.
 
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