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Bombardier Bombi Restoration

J5 Bombardier

Well-known member
We are kind of getting off track on your restoration thread Bob , Triton engines and Engineer bashing have taken over.
My yellow Muskeg started out as a center tub and everything else I fabricated ,except for 2 truck doors. Hyd tank , fuel tank , cab, everything tucked inside , with a clean look. I haven't had to work on it much in the last seven years , when I do , I bitch about the designer. Lol.
Your right on about the frequent oil changes , the best thing you can do with these modern engines, they are just so tight , with so much depending on lubrication.
J5 Bombardier
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Great thoughts BB

I got a degree in automotive technology back in 1970 and the automotive industry at the time (Dealers) only wanted car washers....

Ended up going to work in the wood products bizz and got my Journeyman's ticket in Fab, machining, electrical yada yada

Yesssssssssssssssssss
WHO DESIGNED THAT THING IS QUITE RIGHT :th_lmao:

Having worked my way into the job of field service engineer (McGyver) really brought home the need for the folks designing the stuff to have a grasp of things (Laying on top with a cramp in your butt trying to reach something)


Ah yessss...The good old days
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Not to be a critic .....

But I think the same clowns that designed some of those trucks/engines worked for the snow cat builders too during the season.....

I guess I just hate things that you can't get to easily....especially the stuff you will need to work on.

Follow the money

Building stuff in "Layers" may make it a bitch to work on....but many times makes it much cheaper to build.....

Any time you need to spread stuff out and make it easy to get to it will likely cost a bit more $$$$$ X the vast number of units built.


We can rag on designs forever and the concepts are never gonna change much.....:hammer:

OH.....SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS REQUIRED

So many things require special tools that...if you don't have them.....Not gonna happen
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Any idea where I can buy a new wiper blade for the Bombi?

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Sanded and painted the nose and engine cover over the weekend....a few sags and overspray, but for a weekend warrior, came out pretty good!

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I placed the engine cover on the machine, figured out why there is a hole on the top (air cleaner front edge juts through, oversight on behalf of Bombardier or was this a mod prior owner did?)

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Boggie hooked me up with the paint type and formula Bombardier uses.....thank you Boggie! Looks OEM!

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Having fun!

Bob
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Got in some play time this weekend, worked on rewiring the machine , new gauges (kept old fuel gauge), mounted a Bombardier “Badge” where the fuel tank came up through the nose. Oh....found a wiper blade for this old beaut (mounts with a screw onto the arm).

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Having fun!
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Has anyone changed the engine air in take routing on the Bombi? Currently, it’s set up to take air from inside the cab (hose connects from filter housing to cab, just under seat). I noticed when I bought the machine, the entire inside of the cab had pink styrofoam for insulation. Removing the air flow from the engine.....ie sucking cold air through the cab....might help come dead of winter. Is there a known problem with the Ford 98ci engine during winter?

Thank you

Bob
 

MNoutdoors RIP

Gone But Not Forgotten
GOLD Site Supporter
Has anyone changed the engine air in take routing on the Bombi? Currently, it’s set up to take air from inside the cab (hose connects from filter housing to cab, just under seat). I noticed when I bought the machine, the entire inside of the cab had pink styrofoam for insulation. Removing the air flow from the engine.....ie sucking cold air through the cab....might help come dead of winter. Is there a known problem with the Ford 98ci engine during winter?

Thank you

Bob

Bob,

Which fan do you have the steel bladed one ( pushes air out the back for summer )
Or the plastic winter fan ( sucks air into the engine area )
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Almost there! Completed the wiring, installed a 12 gallon external fuel tank, added an LED light bar and rear lights....then mounted the nose. Turned the ignition key....fired right up! Noticed my gauges weren’t reading correctly.....mixed up the sending wires from coolant and oil, corrected...good to go! The original fuel gauge is set to a higher ohm, so ordered a SW fuel gauge that matches the fuel sending unit (0-90 Ohm).

Having fun!

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Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Thanks J5 and Snowy. I’ve got a few more things to work on (lift engine and remove one of the rubber engine mounts....I put in two per side.....engine cover will hopefully sit flush after), assemble track #2, track down an intermittent parasitic draw (think it’s from the LED light bar relay, might just take relay out as wiring and switches are rated to handle load).

I’ll likely take a year to consider the next project (this one took two years on weekends)....but I must say.... I‘m addicted to these Bombardiers! They’re well built, stout, parts readily available (Thank you MN Outdoors/ Boogey), Ford Industrial engines.....just cool looking machines! Not sure, but eyeballing the Skidozer.

Bob
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Well if you want a real challenge....Try a roller yer own like I am doing with the old 2100 packmaster.
OMG ...Every turn of the road something else pops up that has to be dealt with.

GREAT FUN....KEEP ME AWAKE AT NIGHT ENGINEERING STUFF. :mrgreen::mrgreen:
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Bob,

I could look and see, I can order more they come from Europe
Hi Bogie! I think ezroller needs a fan (I was able to work out my airflow issues, I’m good).

p.s. Was just working on the 2nd track.....those grousers you sent me are fantastic! Thank you again!
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Putting the finishing touches on the Bombi before the tracks go on. Installed the Petronix electronic ignition (1241LS) today, worked like a charm! Engine fired right up, ran smooth once warm.....no more points! The Petronix 1241 LS (Lobe Sensing) works without the usual magnetic sleeve that would normally slide down over the shaft......instead, it senses when the lobe is within 0.010” to 0.035” of the pickup.... and triggers the spark.

Having fun!
 

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HillBilt

Active member
Putting the finishing touches on the Bombi before the tracks go on. Installed the Petronix electronic ignition (1241LS) today, worked like a charm! Engine fired right up, ran smooth once warm.....no more points! The Petronix 1241 LS (Lobe Sensing) works without the usual magnetic sleeve that would normally slide down over the shaft......instead, it senses when the lobe is within 0.010” to 0.035” of the pickup.... and triggers the spark.

Having fun!
Nice! Mine just showed up in the mail
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Finished the 2nd set of tracks this week....and with everything rebuilt and refurbished....it was time to give the lady her new shoes.....and go for a stroll! But like any gift, sometimes it’s not an exact “fit”....and round 2 begins. Ran into an issue and could sure use some help:

Tracks will not pull together to allow final two grouser holes to align. I’m about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2” from success.....but with no “give“ left in the tracks....and rear tension wheel fully stopped to next wheel.....was hoping someone has been down this road. Here’s a few pics from today:
 

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MNoutdoors RIP

Gone But Not Forgotten
GOLD Site Supporter
Bob,

we always put the splice just below the front sprockets so you can get at both sides in the angled area. then take a 2“ratchet strap on the outside
placing it right over the points on the sprocket rachet the ends together. I have been known occasionally to used longer bolts to suck things together if needed on one set of holes with washers and then go back after the other cleat is on and replace bolts with the other cleat and standard bolt but don’t completely tighten until both cleats are in place. A round drift through the hole in the belt can make a pretty effective lever also
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Bob,

we always put the splice just below the front sprockets so you can get at both sides in the angled area. then take a 2“ratchet strap on the outside
placing it right over the points on the sprocket rachet the ends together. I have been known occasionally to used longer bolts to suck things together if needed on one set of holes with washers and then go back after the other cleat is on and replace bolts with the other cleat and standard bolt but don’t completely tighten until both cleats are in place. A round drift through the hole in the belt can make a pretty effective lever also
Thanks Brad! I’ll get the belt in front of the sprocket and then pull them from there. I ordered a 5/8 diameter pair of 3 foot rods (I only had 3/8 threaded rod on hand when attempting this today) and give it a go! I’m thinking with foamed tires, there’s little give until the belt wears in a bit.

Bob
 

Bobcatbob

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
How warm is the shop? What about cranking the heat in the shop to soften up the rubber?
Hi Ezroller

I had the shop up to 60 degrees last night and today. I thought that might help, but considering it’s vulcanized rubber, didn’t give much (god knows I tried). I’ll use Brads technique (he’s our go to on anything that moves over the snow) and report back next weekend.
 

Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
Curious....?????
What dimension did you use for the length of the belts ????
In looking at my own track issues I researched the factory length and found discrepancies from various sources.

I finally took the number of grousers times the pitch of the sprocket teeth... In my case it is 72 grousers on a 4" pitch. 288" total.

My old belts had laid out in the sun and shriveled up about 4" over the course of time....so they were useless as far as gaining any usable numbers....

The 288" number on mine did agree with two of the four sources I had searched...The 2100 uses a mechanical belt lacing....and this uses up some of the belt length bringing the actual belt length to 286-1/2" of actual belt.

Good luck on getting the little girl into her new shoes.....
 

ezroller

Active member
GOLD Site Supporter
Did you get the tracks mated up? Question. What air filter did you replace yours with?
 
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