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DMC 1450 heater fan repair

BearGap

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Cooling system service all done with no real issues. Lots of hours learning the assembly sequence for this stuff and more than a few sore fingers.
The Bronco heater blower unit bolts right in. The cage fan is very close in diameter but about an inch more narrow. I can live with it and maybe find a wider cage for it.
Updating my distributor and tuneup tomorrow and then my stainless lines and hardware for the trans cooler should arrive too.
 

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BearGap

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I mocked up some brackets for the cooler mount in the headlight area and it pretty much sucked. My plan B is now plan A. I’m moving the cooler to the rear bed. I put a cage together and mounted the cooler in it for a trial fit. I had to buy a smaller gas tank as the 26 gallon unit was too big. I’m going to run steel lines as I’m geared up for it, and it’s a pretty short run now.
 

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BearGap

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Got the cooler bolted down and hooked up. Had one fitting leak but seems good now. Need one more test. The cage looks way too big, partly because it is and it’s on this little bed.
I have a pretty good Eastwood flare tool for my vise, but it’s still kind of voodoo to get good flares I think. Got my gas tank painted a really boring gray because I don’t really know what orange I’ll end up choosing if/when I paint.
Waiting for a couple of gas tank fittings so I can complete the new gas lines.
I decided to rewire the engine bay, it’s such a ridiculous mess. I’m getting an alternator/regulator harness from CJ Pony Parts for a 71 Mustang that looks real close. I have a new 100 amp alternator. Not a lot of choices for the early Ford 1G unit between 55 amps and 100 that I could find. My new fan draws 19 amps to start so I went big. I’m getting new long battery cables, solenoid and regulator as well so I can clean it up.
My lower radiator hose outlet is really cramped and my new heavy duty hose is already kinked. I’m getting a 2” silicon 90 elbow with 4” legs and an aluminum hose connector. I think that will do the trick. The real trick is trying catch a bunch of coolant from my inclined cat, one more time....:eatdrink:
 

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Snowy Rivers

Well-known member
You learn to get really creative on these projects for sure.

The original factory stuff was not always generous with room to work on stuff either.

Looking good....
 

BearGap

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I’ve been held up for parts quite a bit but still making progress. Gas tank mounted with new fuel line. I ran the engine for 5 minutes or so with no trans cooler leaks. More tests for sure .
I pulled a burned fuse and the holder came off with it. Broken and torched on the back side contact. I found a cool marine 10 fuse PDC from Littlefuse. The only thing on the web anywhere that would fit in my dash opening. I thought I could crimp just about anything with my Jedi master crimper, but I wasn't ready for the Delphi Metri-Pack connectors. I had to but another crimper just for 12-10 AWG. The fuse connectors are open barrel, sealed type. Never heard of em, but now I got bunches. I’m really hoping to just replace the fuse block for now and leave the big mess for later.....we’ll see.
Got a voltage regulator for a 68 Fairlane that looks just like what I have and a new solenoid too. New battery cables came and some 8 gauge wire for my power cables. Check out the cool 8 gauge master fuse from Powerwerks. No more alternator fusible link. You can get 40 to 80 amp fuses.
 

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Kmcbride

Member
Could you post a picture of the fuse holder mounted in the dash? Model # too?
I’m needing to replace my old rotted one and would like to see how that one worked.
 

BearGap

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Here you go. Sorry for the delay, I’ve been catching up on 2 years worth of yard work. I was banged up last year and had to wait.
The only drawback to this unit is you need a $100 Delco crimper for the 2-step waterproof crimp setup. It fits right in the dash.
I’m finally done with all the outside work after 2 months. I have to buy a battery and turn the key and see if all my wiring works....wish me luck...:unsure:
 

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BearGap

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KM, is your heater setup stock? If so, could you post a pic of your hose routing and core hookups. I’m wondering what heater core I’m really supposed to have.
Thanks, Dan
 

PJL

Well-known member
That fuse block looks a lot like the one I used in the 1200. I used a Hella. Worked very well.
 

BearGap

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It is Alive

Running off the New gas tank with no issues. Don’t see any trans cooler leaks. I still need to put in a 90 elbow in the lower rad hose, but so far so good. Checking fluids and keeping an eye on things. The lead mechanic is very happy and demanded a portrait.
 

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BearGap

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Couple more pictures of my SV150 :smile:
 

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BearGap

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I moved the trans cooler from in front of the main radiator. The trans and hydraulic coolers blocked about 80% of the engine radiator. No wonder these things overheat. The box is A little bigger than it needs to be, I kind of winged it.
 

BearGap

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Hi SR, yes, I used one like this. They are spendy but this was a good size and CFM for me. You can get 180 or 190 degree switches. Mine comes on at 180 and goes off at 165 degrees.
 

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Kmcbride

Member
My heater setup was stock until I had a new heater core made. The inlet/outlet tubes were too long so I rotated it 180*. I’m currently trying out some molded hoses to keep them from sticking out so far into the passenger’s leg area.
 

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Kmcbride

Member
This is what I’m trying to change. I may just stick with it-no kinks.
 

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bushcaddy

Member
u can put race care heater, they are marine heaters sold at jegs hi performance 200$ big btu 20k low amp brusless motor , aluminium cores big heat for cheap. that what i put in my skidozer.. no regrets . u can see a pic of mine on this site.
 

BearGap

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I’ve spent 2 days so far removing all the old carpet and most/enough of the contact cement in the cab. Still a few hours to go with MEK and a wire brush. What a mess. Removed all the old wiring and hardware and installed my new lights.
I used some locking body plugs from Au-Ve-Co to fill the 30!! holes in my 2-person cab. They seem to work really well.
I had my old Holley 1940 rebuilt. I not a guy that would put an auto carb or EFI on an old industrial motor. Seems like trying to soup up an old genset or ag pump that runs at a steady rpm. The industrial carbs are simple with much less metering stuff to go wrong. Unless I get in a duel with the Snowtrack mafia. I don’t want to end up under Jimmy Vermont’s patio.
A couple of days to clean up the Inside cab body ribs and windshield surround and then prime and paint. I ordered some AC tractor orange spray cans, it looks pretty close. I want to have the ribs painted soon so I can get the new wiring run. Then I get to install some new really classy but cheap IO carpet of my own! Not on the engine cover, I’m getting it powder coated.
 

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BearGap

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Serial number bunny trail

I was talking with Dr. Z before he retired about parts and stuff. He said my serial number D0C 1415 (D zero C) means the car was built in 1980 since the second character is the year. This seems to make sense with the Thiokol ID plate.
He also said factory records show this cat wasn’t sold until mid 1981 with DMC badging.
Tim at Remote Access told me he was told by a factory employee that this model, with all 3 hydro options, was made for the 1980 Lake Placid Olympics. He used to service one for a woman at So. Lake Tahoe.
This might be why the cat was built in 1980 with the options by Thiokol. It didn’t seem to make the trip to NY and was sold the following summer by DMC. It seems to have a pretty good attitude even though it didn’t get to watch Phil Mahre win the silver in slalom, and spent its life as a desert Jeep.
 

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BearGap

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Made some progress on the inside.
 

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BearGap

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I’m replacing both master cylinders. They are part FE 14022, from ‘52-‘56 Ford pickups. I’m having trouble finding the right copper crush washers. The old ones look like
8125” OD (13/16” or ~20.7 mm)
.55” ID (~14 mm)
~.8 mm thick
NAPA ones are ~22 mm OD and seem to hang up on the fitting. I ordered some from Grainger that are 20 mm OD and 14 mm ID, it they’re 1.5 mm thick.
The fitting sealing areas are pretty chewed up and I had leaks with the larger NAPA washers. Any ideas from you fabrication gurus?
Thanks very much,
Dan
 

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BearGap

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Found the master cylinder crush washers at Oriellys. 13/16 OD, 5/8” ID and 1/16” thick.
 

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Kmcbride

Member
I had quite a time finding crush washers too. Mine were 15mm id. Finally found some on Amazon- well, actually Brad from Minnesota Outdoors found them for me.
 

BearGap

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Sweet!! Very tidy. I found these at this place when I searched for a Wagner version of the FE14022. The guy sounded older than me...somehow.. and didn’t really want to send me en email with a receipt. I didn’t even get one in the box. But the parts are spot on and the guy really knew his stuff.
Unfortunately I didn’t get part numbers but I guess these are the correct washers and new banjo bolt and fitting from Eaton.

About your heater hoses, You’d better twist them the other direction if you travel to Australia. The Coreolis effect could flip you right over on your top.
 

BearGap

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Finished wiring the cab. Got the exterior lights done and got the new headlights in. They’re just LED floods but should be good. Lights, 2-speed heater and wipers all good, had to buy 1 new WWF wiper motor.
Cleaned up the front end the best I could for this winter. That’s not a cake pan on the left side.....ok, it’s a 9x9 Wilton US-made cake pan. I only use American bakeware for bodywork.
 
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