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Replacing a Ford F150 Engine

fogtender

Now a Published Author
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That's pretty much the same conclusion I've come to. Snce I have a set of replacement manifolds already on the new engine, I'm thinking it's best to cut the old manifolds just above the flange clamp.


Well that would have been even an easier way out, as long as the manifolds are the same, you don't even have to change the gaskets. Although I don't know how much room you have, the other option is to unbolt the manifold from the head and go from there. That way you can address the affected bolts with the engine out of the way.

But a sawsall does wonders....
 

Dargo

Like a bad penny...
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If you need to save some studs to which the nuts are stuck, I have had some success tacking an old socket to the rounded nut and then was able to remove the offending nut. I would then grind the nut off the old socket and repeat. It's time consuming and sort of sucks, but it was nothing compared to getting that 8", 22 pound grade 8 nut off that was frozen to a stud. I used a similar process there but also included a 6' long 3" solid rod as a cheater bar and a 10k fork lift to raise up on the cheater bar. I attached a picture of one of the offending 8" nuts in case you've never seen one that size. The torque setting was 3500 ft. lbs. and it was jambed and corroded. I had so much fun I just had to clean one up and keep it as a souvenir.

As you can see, I generally was never given the easy tasks... :bonk:
 

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fogtender

Now a Published Author
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If you need to save some studs to which the nuts are stuck, I have had some success tacking an old socket to the rounded nut and then was able to remove the offending nut. I would then grind the nut off the old socket and repeat. It's time consuming and sort of sucks, but it was nothing compared to getting that 8", 22 pound grade 8 nut off that was frozen to a stud. I used a similar process there but also included a 6' long 3" solid rod as a cheater bar and a 10k fork lift to raise up on the cheater bar. I attached a picture of one of the offending 8" nuts in case you've never seen one that size. The torque setting was 3500 ft. lbs. and it was jambed and corroded. I had so much fun I just had to clean one up and keep it as a souvenir.

As you can see, I generally was never given the easy tasks... :bonk:

I found that no matter how hard the torque is and how big the nut is (On some ship engines, they are even bigger than the one you showed), using a "Rosebud" torch and cherry red one side of the nut and you can pretty much take them off with a set of pliers... ok, really big pliers...

Trick is that you need to do it before the stud is cherry red too....

The nut is pretty much toast after that though...
 

Dargo

Like a bad penny...
GOLD Site Supporter
Trick is that you need to do it before the stud is cherry red too....

The nut is pretty much toast after that though...

My one nutty neighbor had heard that but didn't quite get it. He called me after he'd heated the stud (not the nut) and couldn't get it off. :bonk:

On that one, since he was short on time, I had to use the universal sized O/A setup...
 

DaveNay

Klaatu barada nikto
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Looks like I'll be side tracked again today....the clothes dryer just made an awful racket, and smells like the motor burned out.

I'm never going to get this damn truck fixed. :bonk:
 

urednecku

Active member
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Looks like I'll be side tracked again today....the clothes dryer just made an awful racket, and smells like the motor burned out.

I'm never going to get this damn truck fixed. :bonk:
Dave, it looks like ya also have some of the same diversions I have. Can't seem to get anything done because of this d@mn computer, and FF in particular!!
 

Dargo

Like a bad penny...
GOLD Site Supporter
OK...I'm officially stuck.

Everything is ready to go to yank the engine.....almost.

I can't get the ******* ****ing manifold->catalytic flange nuts off!

Twist too hard on rusty stud and...
 

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DaveNay

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Success!

I had to remove the fender liners to get access with the saw, but they are free! :applause:

It took 5 brand new blades to do it though. I never would have thought that metal was so hard.
 

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DaveNay

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Finally! The old engine is out! For anyone keeping track, it only took me four weekends to do. :yum: I don't think it was all that bad, it only totalled about 20 hours or so. :sick:

Here's my next question.....what should I do while I have all this room to work? I'm thinking the O2 sensors will be easy with the engine out, so I will probably do them (all four of them :furious:).

Obviously, oil, filter, coolant, thermostat and serpentine belt will be all new, but what else?
 

DaveNay

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Might be a good opportunity to change the trans fluid.
I thought about that, but from what I have been reading, a drain and fill on the trans is not as good as a flush, so I am thinking to get it flushed after I put it all back together.
 

Doc

Bottoms Up
Staff member
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Probably ought to take a good look at the freeze plugs. If they show any sign at all of ever leaking you probably ought to change em before you put the motor in.
 

fogtender

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I thought about that, but from what I have been reading, a drain and fill on the trans is not as good as a flush, so I am thinking to get it flushed after I put it all back together.

For all the trouble you are going though with the engine, it is very easy to do the flush yourself and change out the converter seal while the engine is out.

Change out your trans. filter and gasket after you have your engine back in place and running. Then pull the two transmission cooling lines going to your radiator, put them into a five gallon bucket, with the transmission full of fluid, start the engine and when it starts to spit air, shut it off and refill it with three quarts, then start it again, and shut off when it spits air.

You do that with about a case of oil (24 quarts) when it turns bright red, do it one more time then attach the two hoses and fill the transmission to the full level, then check the level when the engine is running in park.

You will have flushed out the converter and all the systems and saved well over a hundred dollars at a shop, plus the oil costs.
 

DaveNay

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It's all down hill from here!

I finally get the last remnants of the exhaust manifold cut away and the studs and nuts ground away. The new engine is in and aligned with the transmission, man what a bitch that was! Getting the angle right on the engine so that the two bell housing dowels, the four studs on the torque converter and both engine mounts all line up at the same time was damn near impossible.

Frome here on it's just a matter of putting all the parts back on.

No work tomorrow, I have a baby shower to attend. Open bar! :clap:
 

Doc

Bottoms Up
Staff member
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Good job Dave. I'm sure that would be hard to line all that up. Everything would have to be perfect. :pat:
I helped my boy put the engine and tranny back in a ford ranger. A little V6. What a tight fit. There for awhile I had to wonder if it was possible to do from the front. Now I know why I sometimes see bangs and knocks on the cross bar by the radiator. Until then I didn't realize it means the engine has been out at least once.
 

Erik

SelfBane
Site Supporter
It's all down hill from here!

I finally get the last remnants of the exhaust manifold cut away and the studs and nuts ground away. The new engine is in and aligned with the transmission, man what a bitch that was! Getting the angle right on the engine so that the two bell housing dowels, the four studs on the torque converter and both engine mounts all line up at the same time was damn near impossible.

Frome here on it's just a matter of putting all the parts back on.

congrats! good job! :thumb:

No work tomorrow, I have a baby shower to attend. Open bar! :clap:
now that's a way to get attendance at one of those! :w00t2:
 

DaveNay

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ARGLE FARBLE GARBLE WARBLE!!!

I have everything about 98% put back together, just the starter and air cleaner assembly left to do. Unfortunately, I have to undo about three hours of work from this morning because when I went to plug in the fuel rail sensor, it doesn't fit! I'm using the electrical harness from the 2005 engine and the intake manifold from my 2004 engine. They changed the sensor from a three wire to a four wire, and a different connector. I can't even swap the sensor from the 2005 engine because they physically changed the mounting also.

So now I have to take the intake manifold off again and switch the entire harness from the 2005 style to the old 2004 style.
 

urednecku

Active member
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ARGLE FARBLE GARBLE WARBLE!!!

I have everything about 98% put back together, just the starter and air cleaner assembly left to do. Unfortunately, I have to undo about three hours of work from this morning because when I went to plug in the fuel rail sensor, it doesn't fit! I'm using the electrical harness from the 2005 engine and the intake manifold from my 2004 engine. They changed the sensor from a three wire to a four wire, and a different connector. I can't even swap the sensor from the 2005 engine because they physically changed the mounting also.

So now I have to take the intake manifold off again and switch the entire harness from the 2005 style to the old 2004 style.

I've had simular 'fun', & know first-hand how it really pisses one off!!!
 

DaveNay

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It's alive.
It's alive.
It's alive.
It's alive.
It's alive.
IT'S ALIIIIIVVVEEEEE!!!!
 

XeVfTEUtaAqJHTqq

Master of Distraction
Staff member
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Just in time - congrats! Sounds like you have a new project coming soon that is going to suck all your free time up! ;)
 

DaveNay

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Just in time - congrats! Sounds like you have a new project coming soon that is going to suck all your free time up! ;)
Yup. I have two months to remodel two bedrooms and a bathroom upstairs. :rolf2:
 

OSUfan

New member
Dave that's great news. My dad (doc) was telling me about your experience with this engine and the rusted exhaust bolts. Glad to see you got it going.
 
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