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1201B restoration

MNoutdoors RIP

Gone But Not Forgotten
GOLD Site Supporter
That is my old Spryte, I got it from Forrest Hutchinson, Duluth, MN. He picked it up from one of those MN ski hills. We did alot of trail building and jump building with that cat.

I do have a 85 Spryte full cab 300 ic auto for sale.
tinger@exconfreeride.com

Tinger, Did you buy that machine or are you selling it for the ski area? It is the one that was on E-bay. Is this the one ?

It was at Lakeshore Equipment on Consignment.
 

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fogtender

Now a Published Author
Site Supporter
You can cut out the area and build a steel frame from angle Iron and put expanded metal on the inside of it. Will look good with a paint job and very resistant to brush....


Here is a few pics of the body after stripping Anyone know who punches louvers in northern ND or MN?
 

scooterd

Member
Things are finally starting to slow down around here so I was able to work on the Spryte again. We have sandblasted the frame with a big blaster and then fine tuned it with my 80 pound blaster. The hose on the 1000 pound blaster is too big and clumsey to get all the areas clean. I primed the back of the aluminum panels and the steel angle iron. Then riveted them together. There isn't any bare metal touching. Hopefully we'll get color sprayed on the axles and the bottom of the frame this week. Then I can take it off the stands so I can reach the cab/interior.
 

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MNoutdoors RIP

Gone But Not Forgotten
GOLD Site Supporter
Things are finally starting to slow down around here so I was able to work on the Spryte again. We have sandblasted the frame with a big blaster and then fine tuned it with my 80 pound blaster. The hose on the 1000 pound blaster is too big and clumsey to get all the areas clean. I primed the back of the aluminum panels and the steel angle iron. Then riveted them together. There isn't any bare metal touching. Hopefully we'll get color sprayed on the axles and the bottom of the frame this week. Then I can take it off the stands so I can reach the cab/interior.

looking really nice, did you you used crushed glass to blast with? keep up the great work............
 

scooterd

Member
looking really nice, did you you used crushed glass to blast with? keep up the great work............

We used sand to blast it. The aluminum you see in the pictures above and below is new. The finish on it is from a DA sander and 400 grit paper. I thought it should be cleaned and roughed up a bit before priming. The only old aluminum is the roof and back of the cab. Even the gage pod and dog house have been replaced! This is a pic taken during the riveting process.
 

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scooterd

Member
Brad,we didn't sand blast any aluminum parts, but I tried it on the old .040 aluminum just for fun. Just like you said, it didn't work but I had to see how bad it distorted!:whistling:
 

weatherby

Member
Brad,we didn't sand blast any aluminum parts, but I tried it on the old .040 aluminum just for fun. Just like you said, it didn't work but I had to see how bad it distorted!:whistling:

Your doing GREAT work. When I soda blasted my engine cover on my 601 it still distorted it to a small degree I think mainly because it has no framing on it to help keep it from moving, I may have to have a new one bent up, so be careful if you have to remove paint from yours. And yes I also was charged $10.00 per shear on 4'x10' sheet aluminum. Is that zinc chromate primer? Again very nice work:thumb:
 

scooterd

Member
The primer is Dupont 491-17. It's a two part self etching primer mixed 1:1 with 441-43 activator. The top coat is Full-thane (urethane). I didn't get any painting done today because of the weather. Cold and raining.:clap:We needed the rain. It's very dry around here.
 

MNoutdoors RIP

Gone But Not Forgotten
GOLD Site Supporter
Your doing GREAT work. When I soda blasted my engine cover on my 601 it still distorted it to a small degree I think mainly because it has no framing on it to help keep it from moving, I may have to have a new one bent up, so be careful if you have to remove paint from yours. And yes I also was charged $10.00 per shear on 4'x10' sheet aluminum. Is that zinc chromate primer? Again very nice work:thumb:

We have had great success using crushed glass on aluminum, we little to none. for distortion. for the steel parts we use black slag it will cut through
years of rust and paint quickly.


We use a diesel powered 190cfm compressor with a 300 pound pressurized blaster it took about 1.5 hours and about 400 pounds of abrasive to do this machine inside and out. you really have to cover any orifice you do not want abrasive in and the smaller the abrasive the better you must cover.
 

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Snowcat Operations

Active member
SUPER Site Supporter
My brother has pallets of the crushed glass abrasive. They use it in there work and sell it as well. He said it is amazing and much safer than sand since the crushed glass is classified as an irritant rather than a poison like sand is after its crushed in the sand blasting process.
 

scooterd

Member
I had Everson's scan a panel from the front of the Spryte. The area scaned was protected from the elements, so it wasn't sun faded. This is the color the computer came up with. It's a Ford orange.:thumb:
 

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scooterd

Member
This is what it looks like. It's not a great pic, but it gives you an idea of what it is. I'll post more pictures after I get the axles back on.
 

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scooterd

Member
Someone asked about the rivets I am going to use to hold the door skins on. They are drive rivets and look like this. The second picture is the fastener that I will use on the door hinge to attach it to the body. We call it a huck. I hope this helps. A picture is worth a thousand words!
 

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shovanl

Member
SUPER Site Supporter
I see that you have 2 sizes of drive rivets . do the doors take a different ones then the body and where did you get them from. I have a 1977 1202 and would like to change the doors to sloped at the bottom like the newer ones to make it easier to get into thanks. P.S. Great work Larry S.
 

scooterd

Member
The 1/4 " rivets are used on the hinge side of the door. All the rest of the door rivets are 3/16. You have a good plan going with the newer style door. It should be alot easier to get in and out. I wish I would have done this also! The company I work for orders alot of supplies from Kimball Midwest and this is where I ordered my rivets from. I'm not sure, but I think McMaster Carr would also carry them. Good luck on the door modification and please post pictures. I'm interested in what you come up with! Thank you, everyone, for the compliments on my project.
 

scooterd

Member
I forgot to mention that the drive rivets are only used on the door. All of the other panels use the solid aluminum rivet.
 

shovanl

Member
SUPER Site Supporter
Thanks for the come back on the rivets I tryed to get them from mcmasters but thay didnt have that size .I looked on kimball midwests web sit and just like you pictures there thay were so I well try to order from them. thanks again for your help Larry S
 

scooterd

Member
I found some insulation on e-bay that I decided to try. It is closed cell polyethylene with scrim reinforced aluminum on both sides. It has the same R value as 2" of fiberglass insulation and is very light weight. I cut and fit the pieces on the dog house and lower part of the cab before riveting the sheeting on so I had access to both sides. It was easier to mark the insulation this way. The axles are finally back on! I'll finish painting the rims, get them bolted back on, and then take it off the stands. Then it will be low enough that I can reach to rivet the cab panels on. After they are riveted, I'm going to glue the insulation on with 3M spray adhesive #08088. Do you think this glue is the stuff to use?
 

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scooterd

Member
Here's a couple pics of the front axle. My axle was beyond repair, but Boggie had one that was similiar. I cut it apart carefully so I was able to reuse the pieces. 19" was removed from the center. The most time consuming part of the job was aligning everything. The last picture is laying out the side rails. I need to get them welded on, primed and painted before I take it off the stands. The quickgrip clamp was just used to hold the axle close for the picture.
 

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Snowcat Operations

Active member
SUPER Site Supporter
When you remount your side gates make sure to leave about an inch of space under the first slat. This will help you get slush off your deck. Also if you use the 3M heavy duty glue you will be just fine. I used it for my sound deadoning material which is very heavy but never budged even in -60 temps.
 

scooterd

Member
We found new motor mounts! They are on the way, and you won't believe what they fit.:pat:The correct mounts fit a 1961 Ford Econoline with a 2.4. I still need to find the trans mounts. Does anyone have a part #?
 

weatherby

Member
We found new motor mounts! They are on the way, and you won't believe what they fit.:pat:The correct mounts fit a 1961 Ford Econoline with a 2.4. I still need to find the trans mounts. Does anyone have a part #?

Scooterd if your trans looks like this one, a (T98 Borg Warner) then I have the part numbers. This is out of my 601. In realty it's the bell housing that supports the back of the engine, so I guess I should say if your bell housing looks like mine then I will have the part numbers. Hope this helps.
 

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scooterd

Member
I have been looking for a bigger gas tank for quite awhile. We found a tank at an auction sale that looked like it could work. I bought it for $2.50.:clap: I cut off the end of the tank and found that it even had baffles. There was a dusty footprint on the baffle. Even though the tank was rusty on the outside, I think it was never used. Then I cut the holes for the sending unit and filler neck and welded a new end plate on. It turned out pretty good. It holds 60 gallons.
 

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