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OC-12 brake bleeding proceedures.

Snowcat Operations

Active member
SUPER Site Supporter
Hi Guys,
I am getting ready to flush my brakes on both the 1202B 6 and 10 passenger units. I dont know how old the fluid is and just want to clean it all out and replace it with fresh brake fluid. I know there has to be a real simple way to do it. I have my standard brake bleeding method but want to hear from the guys who have done it alot on these units. Thanks for any info.:thumb:
 

mtncrawler

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Brake fluid attracts moisture so it's a good idea to flush every other year or so. I soak the old fluid out of the master cylinders with paper towels and swab them with some fresh fluid as best I can. Then fill them up and bleed the lines throughly. Some of the nasty stuff will stay in the slaves and can be re-bled later when it's mixed together well. Also consider replacing the rubber brake lines leading to the slave cylinders if it's never been done.
 

Snowcat Pat

Active member
What do you all think of using DOT-5 Silicone Brake Fluid. I have been using it for years because it doesn't attract moisture, doesn't melt paint and is much better at lubricating. I took apart my old 1988 homebuilts steering slaves and after 19 years of hard use they show only the slightest wear, and no dirt. Some folks say that DOT-5 makes brakes feel spongy. I don't know, Thiokol steering feels a little spongy anyway. I know that the NASCAR crowd won't use it any more but thats an extreme high heat situation that we never encounter. The down side-very expensive and contrary to whats said it does not mix well with other brake fluids.

As far as flushing in addition to mtncrawlers suggestion I like to use 4 psi air pressure and let it flow for 20 minutes or more. I fitted a master cyl cap with an air hose coupler to make it easy. But there really is no substitute for taking both the Master and Slave apart and cleaning out all the gunk at least once. You might find some near failures by doing that. A slave kit is only $25. Master kit about $35.

I guess I've been looking for these discussions for a while, does it show?

Pat Foster
Wallace Idaho
 

Snowcat Operations

Active member
SUPER Site Supporter
1969 Spyte. What model or part numbers are the slave cylinder and master cylinder kits?

I am also looking for stainless steel brake hoses for the rear. Anyone ever have these made or have a source?
 

zspryte

Member
Site Supporter
Pat - when you switched to DOT 5 did you do clean the lines out with anything like alcohol or is blowing air good enough?

I wish I switched to DOT 5 when the slave cylinders were rebuilt and I replaced the master cylinders. It was recommended but I didn't listen to the good advice.
 

Snowcat Pat

Active member
I work with both DOT 3 and DOT 5 frequently and have observed that they both evaporate so I have been using air blast only. That said, alcohol should be OK to help flush out residue but I haven't tried that. DOT 3 is Glycol which is glycerin and alcohol. Alcohol usually has water in it too so the lines would have to be aired until completely dry.
-Pat
 
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