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Kristi KT-3 SN 00145
- Thread starter Bobcat
- Start date
Nice Fat welding cables on the battery terminals. I like this unit more and more. Someone designed a pretty killer electrical system!
And the last 3 pictures. That's all I have for now till I pick it up from the previous owner next week. Later I'll add some history and document the modifications that are currently in it. Right now everything seems to work, but I'll fix that!
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We need pictures of those sprockets. Something looks diffrent. BigAl can walk you through those gear drives too. But before you run it change that fluid. I can see they are leaking which is no big deal. It should be a early to mid 60s unit. It would of had a 6 volt system originally but that is already changed to 12 volt for sure. I like it!
Hey BigAl how you guys doing? Glad to see you on the forums!
BigAl said:
You bet. Previous owner mentioned wanting to try plastic. By the way, saw your get-together info about Red River Hot Springs, One of the sites I installed is near there, intersection of Red River Hot Springs Rd and NF-423. If the station ever needs service, I might stop by to see your KTs.
Snowcat Operations said:
Hi Mike ,
We are holding up well . Ranch was in pretty good shape ,when we got here . Just been finishing up some outside trim work on the old headquarters house . Have 8" of solid ice in the back driveway ,I also been chipping at .
Headed for the Hot Springs today for a little R&R . I got the beer and drink cooler, so see you there .
Had a nice healthly herd of Elk that greeted us at the gate ,when we arrived. I really enjoyed seeing them again .The hay I laid out for them is just about gone ,but spring grass is spouting now in places on the place .Looks like all the cows are heavy and will be throwing a calf in the next month or so .
Bob,
Then you need to plan on coming over this next winter for a snowcat get together !I have seen your KT3 someplace before ,but just can't seem to place where
.
caeryon
New member
Bob, you didn't find that in AZ, by any chance? If so, since I first noticed the "For Sale" sign on it, I've been telling my husband that I should take pics and post it here in case anyone was interested. Heck, being from FL originally, I wasn't even sure what it was when we first spied it, and I only noticed the "Kristi" on it about a month ago. We drive by the lot where it's stored quite often. My husband joneses for the tracked Jeep that you can just see on the trailer beside it in the first of your pics. If it's the same Kristi -- and it sure looks as if it is -- I'm so glad it will be going to someone who'll appreciate it.
Dont tell BigAl but I liked the KT-3. I only sold it since my knees at that time were in crapy shape and I they didnt like crawling over the tracks or back seat to get in and out. If I find another one again I will buy it (if the price is right).
Serious inquiries only, needs a new engine or a complete rebuild of the existing engine.
Bob, that looks like a factory Thiokol trailer? It looks a little too far forward on the trailer, there is a simple solution for that in the future, you could weld or bolt a bump/stop on the trailer bed several inches back from the front edge. The best thing would be to balance it on the trailer bed where you want it so it is not too tongue heavy on the trailer, then paint or mark the trailer where you want to put your stop. You can simple bolt a 4x4 right through the mesh deck, or if you have a welder can weld a stop to the deck. It will make your loading a lot easier, and obviously you'll always stop in the same spot every time.bobpierce said:
B_Skurka said:
Yup, a genuine Thiokol. Just picked it up from Snowcat Operations. Will probably go for the bolted through 4x4. Loading was smoooooth. The KT-3 climbed the bed like it could go vertical. I think the long bolts sticking out of the cleats will probably prevent any slipping on the mesh deck. Clutch was a bit heavy, is this typical?
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She looks good on the trailer! I would wait to hardface the bolts nuts until you figure out what track set up you want or until your change your cleats out. Looks like a goodcat. The clutch is probably a HD clutch. I wonder how much HP that VW engine has. You usually dont use a HD clutch unless you have alot of HP.
Also the trailer looks perfectly level!
New pictures and videos of my KT-3 have been placed in my gallery. I took a pile of semi-random pictures while I was cleaning it out, and then a couple of short video clips as I was putting it back on the trailer. The following link may actually lead you there, but no guarantees...
http://www.forumsforums.com/pp53/useralbums.php
http://www.forumsforums.com/pp53/useralbums.php
20070331 - First hands-on day.
The KT-3 has been home for a few days now, but this was the first time I had a chance to play. She started on the first crank and I unloaded it from the trailer. None of that ramp stuff, just drove it straight off the tilt. I remember backing into drifts and banks in AK to load/unload our Spryte and Imp. It was just easier and quicker.
Anyway, everyone who drove by had to stop, look, drive around the block, and look again. What, never seen a snowcat in the desert? After the show and tell, I could finally start digging into it.
First, clean out all of the spare parts, garbage, old tools, empty oil and hydraulic fluid bottles. Then, a little engine degreaser so I could figure out what's what and read a serial/model number or two. Finally, hose the thing down.
Lunch.
The KT-3 has been home for a few days now, but this was the first time I had a chance to play. She started on the first crank and I unloaded it from the trailer. None of that ramp stuff, just drove it straight off the tilt. I remember backing into drifts and banks in AK to load/unload our Spryte and Imp. It was just easier and quicker.
Anyway, everyone who drove by had to stop, look, drive around the block, and look again. What, never seen a snowcat in the desert? After the show and tell, I could finally start digging into it.
First, clean out all of the spare parts, garbage, old tools, empty oil and hydraulic fluid bottles. Then, a little engine degreaser so I could figure out what's what and read a serial/model number or two. Finally, hose the thing down.
Lunch.
Attachments
20070331 - First hands-on day, part 2.
Alright, what works and what doesn't. Looking at the dash in the previous post from right to left and top to bottom, here is the scoop.
The original operating instruction placard. Readable, describes flluid types, starting procedures, general operating instructions. I like it.
Two toggle switches. The upper switch does nothing and doesn't feel like it throws correctly. I believe it is for the forward roof-mounted flood lights (next sentence tells how I made that guess). The lower switch turns on the rear roof-mounted flood light.
Two side-by-side valves. For pumping up the hydraulic system. It takes many, many, many turns to fully open and close them. Are these original and is this normal?
The instrument cluster. CW from top. Panel illuminator, works. White push-pull knob, windshield wiper, works but no rubber - screeeech! Fuel gauge, works. Starter button, works. Ignition switch, works but lots of clicking before starting (fuel pump, twirly yellow light on top?). Big toggle switch for hydraulic pump, works. Hobbs meter, not run enough yet to know if it works (650hrs shown). White push-pull knob marked 'UNITY', turns out it's not a New World Order plot, just the running lights, works. Finally, in the middle, a nonfunctioning tachometer. Fortunately, I just acquired a replacement (thanks SnoOp).
Shift pattern plate, readable.
The famous ski-action lever, works.
Voltmeter, works.
Oil pressure gauge, works.
I guess I can get by without a generator idiot light since I have a voltmeter, but I think I want a temperature gauge/idiot light. Did these not come so equipped? Almost forgot, below the instrument cluster and between the shift levers there is a black knob labeled 'C' for choke I assume. Can't budge it.
Now the operating controls. The gas pedal is almost binary, but I guess I just need to get the feel for it. The clutch pedal is a bear. I won't be idling in gear with my foot trying to hold that down very long. The shift levers are very tight. When going from a nuetral position to any gear, several detents are felt along the way. I must ignore them and keep pushing! I'm sure that box is in need of a good cleaning and lubing. The brake lock lever doesn't stay out of the way very well. Need something to hold it up while I'm doing things like trying to load on the trailer.
The engine. It runs very nice. This cat originally came with engine SN 116259, but the one in it is simply marked 'H'. Lyndon has id'd this as a 1500cc engine, Woohoo! I was expecting a 1200. That might partially explain the heavy clutch. There are two batteries under the hood and an alternator under the same belt as the generator. I thought I had a dual electrical system. Nope, both batteries in parallel running off the alternator. There are no connection to the generator. Maybe the previous owner installed the alternator for more juice and simply bypassed the generator. Maybe the generator is dead. Dunno, but I will turn it into a dual system. The exhaust pipes are rusty from where they are attached to the muffler with bailing wire (not kidding) down to the engine. I can hear a small leak somewhere. The windshield is cracked and discolored under the mufflers. The carburetor has an electric choke and no air filter. I've seen several KT-3s on the web with no filter and a few with a hose coming from the hood scoop-intake thing. Usually those hoses are burned/broken, like mine that I found in the back seat. If the carburetor is to get it's air through this hose, where does the filter go? Other than that, nothing else significant to report under the hood. Lots of grime and shredded insulation (fiberglass, asbestos?) The wiring behind the instrument panel is a gnarly mess, but it won't be a problem for me.
The body. A hole in the lower body here or there, a panel or two of missing plexiglass in the windows, a door that won't latch, typical rust-red color mottled with a dab of touched up paint. Some of the lower body damaged was caused by the drive clamshells rotating into it. I have been shown a way of limiting their travel to prevent this in the future. The upper body is in very good shape.
The interior. Not exactly fine corinthian leather. Carpet has been laid fore and aft, not sure if it was laid to soak up oil on the floor or to catch oil that fell later. Either way, it is quite grimy, but the wood underneath looks fair (not soft, saturated, rotted, discolored, etc). The plastic seat covers in the rear are brittle and cracking. The left bench seat is no longer secured to the wall. The front bench seat is in better shape. There are a few exposed wires and hoses that I will want to hide a little better, especially the fuel line and what is either the wire to the sender or to the fuel pump that lies next to the drivers left foot.
Tracks. The drive clamshells have obiously leaked at some point. They may have no oil in them now. Will have to check that before taking her out. The track rubber looks good. One idler is shot, but still holding air. Five more have varying amounts of dry rot, and a couple are brand-spankin new. I also have one new tire and two new tubes from the previous owner. The cleats and guides all look original. I also have a supply of OLD spare track parts and some new home made cleats. Someone has replaced many of the bolts with extra long ones and not bothered to trim them down. Better ice performance or laziness? The drive gogs appear to have been remade. Someone who knows what these are suppose to look like will have to let me know. I believe that through the semi-translucent teeth I can see darker worn teeth, but maybe thats just the way these things are made. I dunno.
Alright, for those who haven't drifted off reading this rediculously long and simplistic first-look at my KT-3, that's all for now. I promise not to do it again, just wanted everyone to see what I am starting with and it helps me figure out where I'm going.
Any comments about anything stupid I may have said or done will be appreciated. No, really. I'm not going to learn unless you point out my mistakes, even if I have to hear it from Slow-Tracs.
Alright, what works and what doesn't. Looking at the dash in the previous post from right to left and top to bottom, here is the scoop.
The original operating instruction placard. Readable, describes flluid types, starting procedures, general operating instructions. I like it.
Two toggle switches. The upper switch does nothing and doesn't feel like it throws correctly. I believe it is for the forward roof-mounted flood lights (next sentence tells how I made that guess). The lower switch turns on the rear roof-mounted flood light.
Two side-by-side valves. For pumping up the hydraulic system. It takes many, many, many turns to fully open and close them. Are these original and is this normal?
The instrument cluster. CW from top. Panel illuminator, works. White push-pull knob, windshield wiper, works but no rubber - screeeech! Fuel gauge, works. Starter button, works. Ignition switch, works but lots of clicking before starting (fuel pump, twirly yellow light on top?). Big toggle switch for hydraulic pump, works. Hobbs meter, not run enough yet to know if it works (650hrs shown). White push-pull knob marked 'UNITY', turns out it's not a New World Order plot, just the running lights, works. Finally, in the middle, a nonfunctioning tachometer. Fortunately, I just acquired a replacement (thanks SnoOp).
Shift pattern plate, readable.
The famous ski-action lever, works.
Voltmeter, works.
Oil pressure gauge, works.
I guess I can get by without a generator idiot light since I have a voltmeter, but I think I want a temperature gauge/idiot light. Did these not come so equipped? Almost forgot, below the instrument cluster and between the shift levers there is a black knob labeled 'C' for choke I assume. Can't budge it.
Now the operating controls. The gas pedal is almost binary, but I guess I just need to get the feel for it. The clutch pedal is a bear. I won't be idling in gear with my foot trying to hold that down very long. The shift levers are very tight. When going from a nuetral position to any gear, several detents are felt along the way. I must ignore them and keep pushing! I'm sure that box is in need of a good cleaning and lubing. The brake lock lever doesn't stay out of the way very well. Need something to hold it up while I'm doing things like trying to load on the trailer.
The engine. It runs very nice. This cat originally came with engine SN 116259, but the one in it is simply marked 'H'. Lyndon has id'd this as a 1500cc engine, Woohoo! I was expecting a 1200. That might partially explain the heavy clutch. There are two batteries under the hood and an alternator under the same belt as the generator. I thought I had a dual electrical system. Nope, both batteries in parallel running off the alternator. There are no connection to the generator. Maybe the previous owner installed the alternator for more juice and simply bypassed the generator. Maybe the generator is dead. Dunno, but I will turn it into a dual system. The exhaust pipes are rusty from where they are attached to the muffler with bailing wire (not kidding) down to the engine. I can hear a small leak somewhere. The windshield is cracked and discolored under the mufflers. The carburetor has an electric choke and no air filter. I've seen several KT-3s on the web with no filter and a few with a hose coming from the hood scoop-intake thing. Usually those hoses are burned/broken, like mine that I found in the back seat. If the carburetor is to get it's air through this hose, where does the filter go? Other than that, nothing else significant to report under the hood. Lots of grime and shredded insulation (fiberglass, asbestos?) The wiring behind the instrument panel is a gnarly mess, but it won't be a problem for me.
The body. A hole in the lower body here or there, a panel or two of missing plexiglass in the windows, a door that won't latch, typical rust-red color mottled with a dab of touched up paint. Some of the lower body damaged was caused by the drive clamshells rotating into it. I have been shown a way of limiting their travel to prevent this in the future. The upper body is in very good shape.
The interior. Not exactly fine corinthian leather. Carpet has been laid fore and aft, not sure if it was laid to soak up oil on the floor or to catch oil that fell later. Either way, it is quite grimy, but the wood underneath looks fair (not soft, saturated, rotted, discolored, etc). The plastic seat covers in the rear are brittle and cracking. The left bench seat is no longer secured to the wall. The front bench seat is in better shape. There are a few exposed wires and hoses that I will want to hide a little better, especially the fuel line and what is either the wire to the sender or to the fuel pump that lies next to the drivers left foot.
Tracks. The drive clamshells have obiously leaked at some point. They may have no oil in them now. Will have to check that before taking her out. The track rubber looks good. One idler is shot, but still holding air. Five more have varying amounts of dry rot, and a couple are brand-spankin new. I also have one new tire and two new tubes from the previous owner. The cleats and guides all look original. I also have a supply of OLD spare track parts and some new home made cleats. Someone has replaced many of the bolts with extra long ones and not bothered to trim them down. Better ice performance or laziness? The drive gogs appear to have been remade. Someone who knows what these are suppose to look like will have to let me know. I believe that through the semi-translucent teeth I can see darker worn teeth, but maybe thats just the way these things are made. I dunno.
Alright, for those who haven't drifted off reading this rediculously long and simplistic first-look at my KT-3, that's all for now. I promise not to do it again, just wanted everyone to see what I am starting with and it helps me figure out where I'm going.
Any comments about anything stupid I may have said or done will be appreciated. No, really. I'm not going to learn unless you point out my mistakes, even if I have to hear it from Slow-Tracs.
Attachments
The Valves are factory and yes they take a bit to turn them all the way. Extend your tracks and then turn the valves closed. Let it sit over night. If the tracks drop back down then the valves are leaking and need to be serviced. See the owners manual I gave you for this. Also I can see you need to lube your transmission levers/rods. I believe I used hydro fluid but not sure. Mine had not been operated in years and were doing what you are describing. Glad to hear the gauges I gave you were helpful. Now she just needs a detailed cleaning! I am surprised to hear the generator is not working. I would believe that it was when the added the second High output alternator. I would get a new generator or a newer 55 amp, 75 amp, or even a 95 amp Bosch alternator and have the old generator rebuilt (keep it). I would run just the basic electricals off the newer Bosch alt and run everything else off the Big mamba gamba H.O. alternator. Get some Oddesye or Optima batteries and some huge cables. Looks like you have a bit of work ahead of you. BUT these are the good times!
I left the tracks partially extended for 3 days. No change in height. It was only during trailering that they dropped.
Not sure that the generator doesn't work, will get a new regulator for it and see. I've been reading in 'the' VW book that the generator had two flavors of regulator, one that attached to the generator side and one that went somewhere else. 'The' book isn't big on pictures though, so can it be determined from the attached picture which it is? Then I plan on wiring as you described, with the generator running the get-home stuff. And I was planning on getting the Optimas as well (I've been reading other posts or something).
So, what do you know about the carburetor air filter deal?
Not sure that the generator doesn't work, will get a new regulator for it and see. I've been reading in 'the' VW book that the generator had two flavors of regulator, one that attached to the generator side and one that went somewhere else. 'The' book isn't big on pictures though, so can it be determined from the attached picture which it is? Then I plan on wiring as you described, with the generator running the get-home stuff. And I was planning on getting the Optimas as well (I've been reading other posts or something).
So, what do you know about the carburetor air filter deal?
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GET an airfilter asap. Mine had an airfilter but cant remember what kind. Check my old posts on the Kristi for pictures. I am not sure which regulator you need. LYNDON would know for sure. Most Hippies had VW vans he had a Snow Trac! He is the VW GURU on this site from eveything I have seen. You may need to PM him.
I've seen several Krisit-related posts talking about engine/belt driven hydraulic pumps. I won't be home for a week or so to get a better look at mine, but looking at some pictures I noticed something different. Looks like I have an electric pump. Is mine an original, optional, or owner add-on unit? Where would the belt driven unit be if it were left in place? Is an electric pump a good thing?
