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Headliner for a Snow Trac: Any suggestions?

Melensdad

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I was playing around in the shop last night and spent a good deal of time looking up at the ceiling of the cabin.

Seems to me there should be a headliner in the cabin of some sort.
  • Ideally it would add some insulation to prevent heat/cold transfer.
  • It should also offer some sound deadening properties.
  • It should also be durable, waterproof, easy to clean.
  • It should also hide electrical wires.
  • Ideally it would extend down the cabin walls to the top of the seats.
I can come up with no solution to this. A very heavy coating (2 or 3 coats) of a light colored 2-part epoxy would be very durable, it would probably add a very modest amount of insulation (but not much) and it would probably allow for a modest amount of sound deadening insulation. It would do nothing to hide wires.

Putting in a false ceiling, probably of fabric or vinyl, would be a nightmare but it would solve all the issues. It would be very difficult to install on the walls. Essentially you'd have to build a cabin inside the cabin, stuff insulation into the cavity between the exterior wall and the inner wall. That is way beyond my ability.

Anyone have any thoughts?

The walls could be lined with indoor/outdoor carpet and that would work reasonably well if it was glued to the walls as long as all the wires were run BEFORE you installed the carpet. But due to the shape and structure of the roof, I don't see it possible to install carpet on the ceiling.

:confused:
 

bczoom

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Bob,

How large is the ceiling area?

I made a ceiling panel for my RTV out of a sheet of PVC. Although mine is straight black, you can get in other colors. It can be bent, covered (if you want cloth or something).

Something like item 45018 on this page
 

Snowcat Operations

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Bob,
I was also looking at my ceiling and came up with an idea. The ceiling I found would be easy to insulate and then cover due to the 1x tubing running on the inside (top). The walls are what kinda stummped me. On the walls you would have to build the same type of frame as on the roof. I would leave about an inch clearance around the windows. Then simply apply some light adhesive on some precut polyurethane panels and set them in between the frame (tight fit and flush with the frame). Then simply precut your 1/4" ACX marine grade ply wood to fit on top of the frame and around the edge of the frame around the windows and sky light ect. Once everything is cut and the inner edges are sanded simple mark the frames location on the ply wood. Refit and drill your holes. Remove and cover you plywood with the desired material (and we know what that will be in your case :D ). Then once the material is cut to the right dimensions remove and apply a light coating of adhesive on both surfaces (material and plywood). Apply both together and staple the ends. After it dries place up on frame find your holes and use the correct screw button (I know thats not the proper name) To protect the material from being cut by screw and gives a professional look and screw into place. You now have an insulated cab. I would suggest cordura or a ballistic nylon for the material. Also I would use stainless hardware as well. First I would completely re paint the inside with a good epoxy based paint. This will help prevent any rust.

:beer:
 

Melensdad

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Brian . . . estimating from memory the ceiling area is about 44" by about 80" There is a reinforcement frame made of 1x1 steel square tube. There is also a very large pop-up sunroof.

Mike . . . all that sounds good until you get to the corners. How would you deal with those? They are radiused both vertically and horizontally and that is what really baffles me.
 

Doc

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Snowcat Operations said:
Bczoom,
I would guess about 4x8.

If that's the size it sure sounds like 1/4" plywood would work. Just cover it with whatever material you want overhead.
 

Snowcat Operations

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I was looking at that too. If you build out the inner frame on the walls as suggested they may just dead end flush. Wall to wall to ceilling. It would be easy to check. Get some 1x material (wood blocks) and simply run them together till they meet in the corners. The plywood should make up any difference. If not you could increase the thickness of the tubing on the walls. (give you better insulation too). That would be my guess on that I will see if this idea holds water. I will look for some 1x stock and check it myself.

:beer:
 

Melensdad

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Snowcat Operations said:
I was looking at that too. If you build out the inner frame on the walls as suggested they may just dead end flush. Wall to wall to ceilling.
What I see as a problem is that (at least in mine) I would be giving up a couple inches of interior ceiling height. Again just going from memory, I'm guessing the wall to roof joint (where the bolts run around the roof line) is probably 2 or 3 inches below the 1x1 square steel tubes on the ceiling. So you'd have to lower the ceiling to meet the walls?

Am I missing something?
 

Snowcat Operations

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Your tubing would not go all the way to the top (or into the radius). You could even trim the back side of the tubing to match the raduis and go as far as it can. There is way this can be done. I just havent really put to much thought into it yet. I have been trying to get it claened and lubed and adjusted properly. I will look into doing this though. These vehicles are very load inside and I know this would cut that noise in half.
 

Snowcat Operations

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You would simply use the existing frame work on the ceilling. The insualted panels would be flush with the frame work. The only hiet you loose would be what ever thickness ply wood you use and material.
 

Melensdad

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Yea but, I think you'll find that the wall panels (with 1" build out) and the ceiling panels (if mounted to the 1x1 steel square tube) would not meet. There is an estimated 3" or 4" radius at the corners/walls . . .consequently you'd likely end up with a 1" gap (or more) between where the ceiling panel terminates and the wall panels terminate.


SO . . . you'll have to either mount the ceiling panel to some spacers to lower the ceiling or the wall insulation thicker, or figure out some way to deal with the curviture???
 

Snowcat Operations

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I dont remember any bolts hanging that low. I will check in a few minutes. Havent had my coffee yet! LOL guess I should get off my ars and get it.
 

Snowcat Operations

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You could also frame in a Triangle in the corners and panel that. Then have you other panels meet that section. Would be a great place to place some type of interior lights or speakers. As you can tell I havent really thought this out yet. When I was cleaning the cab I was thinking about it a bit.
 
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Snowcat Operations

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If you stay with a 1" tubed frame and then run your paneling to the wall itself then that could take care of about two inches of the radius. you could also build another frame to fit at an angle between the walls and the ceilling. This could simply be a 45 degree angled piece that would join the ceiling and walls together. As long as you dont have to take your roof off all the time (I never will) then it shouldnt be a problem to build something like this. That is if you really want to have an insulated cab. For me that would be nice but not a must have. Ive been thinking about just haveing the whole inside Rhino lined. (the real stuff) This would cut down on vibrations and noise. But would not offer any real heat or cold insulation. Either way the inside would be nicer than stock.
 

bczoom

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B_Skurka said:
SO . . . you'll have to either mount the ceiling panel to some spacers to lower the ceiling or the wall insulation thicker, or figure out some way to deal with the curviture???
Bob,

Do you have any pics of this?

I bent my PVC sheet as needed.

For esthetics (and insulation), whatever you use for the main sheet (plywood or whatever), cover the underside with 1/2" batting or foam (or whatever that fluffy stuff that comes in sheets for crafts and such) then use vinyl or something for the finished ceiling. This may offer some help as well when you bump your head.
 

Snowcat Operations

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Bob,
I just did some measuring around and with 1" frame on the wall it would be perfect. You dont have to worry about the corners. The panels would meet flush right at the corners. This is most likely what I will do. Should be real easy.
 

Melensdad

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How would you trim around the windows?

Skylight?

What about the rear door?
 

Snowcat Operations

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I would build the frame with about a one inch clearance around each window. The frame edge is where my paneling would stop. Same as on the sky light frame. I would also have to frame out the rear door.
 
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