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Front transmission mount for Snow Trac

Sno-Surfer

Active member
Does anyone know the correct front transmission mount for the snow trac? It look like a mid 60's early 70's beetle mount but if anyone knows for sure I would appreciate it. I just noticed mine is broken which explains why I get such a chatter in the clutch in reverse.
Thanks for any help. :flowers:
 

NorCal

New member
It is a 211 301 265A
Fits Type 2 "bus" 63-67
Just installed mine last night....
Very common thru any VW supplier..
Have fun,
Chris
 

Sno-Surfer

Active member
It is a 211 301 265A
Fits Type 2 "bus" 63-67
Just installed mine last night....
Very common thru any VW supplier..
Have fun,
Chris

Thanks Chris. That is close but this is the closest I've found.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=311301265B

But mine doesn't have the two studs on it and instead has threaded inserts in the rubber mount. It's nice that way so I can easily slide it in. If I can't find one I'll try the one with studs. I'll post a pic of mine next.
 

Sno-Surfer

Active member

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sno-drifter

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Hey Mr. Surfer, you are drinking the correct beverage, don't know about the motor mount though.
 

NorCal

New member
Interesting, I have never seen a VW front trans mount without the studs....
Sure would make it alot easier to slide up and in though.
 

Sno-Surfer

Active member
Yes it would help without the Studs. I just received my new mount and am crossing my fingers I can get it in there without too much trouble.
 

Sno-Surfer

Active member
Well shoot. I just took a look at the mount they sent me and it has a protrusion out the back of it. It needs to be flat so it can mount up. I'll keep looking for a closer mount.
NorCal, did the mount you ordered have that protrusion on the back of it or is it flat?
 

NorCal

New member
I think mine is the original and it had that 211 part number and flat on back.
I think someone my have drilled and tapped the holes in the one you had maybe??
 

Sno-Surfer

Active member
I think mine is the original and it had that 211 part number and flat on back.
I think someone my have drilled and tapped the holes in the one you had maybe??


Thanks NorCal. I exchanged the mount for the same one you have.
But now I can't get it in without sliding the engine and trans forward about a 3/4 of an inch.
This isn't a vw bus and sliding the engine forward is looking like a total pain.
Can anyone that has replaced the mount shed any light on the best way to do it?

Looks like I need to unbolt the main forward trans mount, undo those two long threaded rods that hold the variators back and probably the exhaust too. All of which is not easy to do in my opinion. Of course it's all hard when you haven't done it before and there is no manual to help. The experience pool to change these things is small. I bet most replaced it when the motor was out. But I would really like a bit of direction or advice on this.

It also looks like I will need to shim the mount out a bit once it's in because this new one is thinner and I don't see a way to move the engine and trans back since it's pretty set where it is with the main trans mount.

I tried to double nut the studs to see if I could remove them on the new mount and couldn't get them to budge. Not sure how these are constructed so that May or may not be an option.

I'm looking hard for an obscure mount that doesn't have the studs but no luck yet.

Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks!:flowers:
 

Sno-Surfer

Active member
Dang, it also looks like I would need to disconnect the steering linkage. :sad:

A lot of work if this is what is needed. Worried about getting it all back in place since the drive chains and all are still connected, it may be hard to pull it back in place with the tension even though the chains are a bit loose.
 

Cidertom

Chionophile
GOLD Site Supporter
Mine is a bit different, so your mileage and beer consumption may vary:
By loosening the mounts on the bell housing and the front nuts on the tie rods I was able to pivot the engine and transmission enough to clear the bolts.
 

NorCal

New member
I had the whole motor and trans out when I did mine and it was still kinda a bear, Mine has two bolts going thru the frame plus the two studs on mount so you need to clear about two whole inches before it will slide up and in. I hate to break the bad news but I think you need to pull the motor and completely unbolt the trans. The two long variator bolts were a PITA...there is a nut and a square washer with threads in it, on the end so they have to be unscrewed from inside the engine compartment. Then unhook steering linkage and two big bolts that go thru the ST25 to steering box. once everything is loose tighten front mount first then bell housing then long PITA bolts.
Grab a 12 pack your gonna need it....good luck Chris
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
the transmission is one of the most difficult item to work on in the snow trac it's kind of like they hung it on a chain and built the rest of the machine around it
 

Sno-Surfer

Active member
Thanks all, I really appreciate the help. So it sounds like it's a real pain in the butt to do this....:sad:
But good to hear how you guys have done this.
Before I disconnect everything, I just ordered one of these and will see if I can get this style mount to slide in. I thought I'd see if I can fix the nuts into the mount so I basically have threaded inserts. Just need to figure out a way to keep them from turning.


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1690703

I will still need to shim this out a bit I think but anyone see any reason why this wouldn't work?
 

Sno-Surfer

Active member
Just wanted to report back on the tranny mount. I installed the one I posted in the above post. It has no studs on it and slipped right in and was fairly easy to install. No need to unbolt or remove anything. It's a harder urathane mount that I'm sure is pretty darn stiff in the cold but I think it will work just fine.
Took it out yesterday and no more chatter in reverse. :wink:

However, my starter was grinding and not fully engaging. Almost left me (and three adults and four kids) out there.

I now need to take the starter off and have a look. That starter doesn't come out easy. Any suggestions how to do this with the engine still in? It looks like I could unscrew the solenoid from the starter and wiggle it out but not sure I really want to do that unless it's the only way. Even pulling the motor doesn't make more room because it's the variators that are in the way.
Lyndon's variator thread says it can be done but is difficult but no instructions or tips on getting that sucker out.
Man we are having a great winter this year. Snow everywhere and lots of places to go. Appreciate any ideas. :biggrin:
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
t remove the battery wire to the starter first than when clocked right the starter will come right out. if the flywheel is looking like some of my inlaws you will have to pull the engine likely the support bushing is bad. the fun part comes when you don't know if the pilot hole in your transmission is drilled for a 6 volt starter or a 12 volt starter the pilot hole for the 6 volt starter is larger so if you have done a full 12 v conversion with fly wheel you will need the adapter bushing and not the bushing that came with the starter the old bushing can be removed with a bolt threaded into the bushing as the bolt bottoms out it will drive the bushing out.
 

Sno-Surfer

Active member
Thanks Don. I sure tried to take the starter out a couple weeks ago and couldn't seem to get it. But if it can be done , I'll figure it out. I know I may have to pull the motor but hoping it might just be a worn starter gear. I don't have an overhead system to pull the motor out either but I'll figure that out too if it needs to come out.
Thanks for the suggestions.
 
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