• Please be sure to read the rules and adhere to them. Some banned members have complained that they are not spammers. But they spammed us. Some even tried to redirect our members to other forums. Duh. Be smart. Read the rules and adhere to them and we will all get along just fine. Cheers. :beer: Link to the rules: https://www.forumsforums.com/threads/forum-rules-info.2974/

Oliver is running a little twisted.

DaveNay

Klaatu barada nikto
SUPER Site Supporter
My 1850 Oliver is running like crap! I tried cutting hay today and I can't run at normal engine speed (and normal speed is only about 80% of full speed...never has run right). Now today, whenever I had the PTO engaged at full throttle, the engine would start skipping and sputtering and quickly die. I was able to baby it a little bit for a while to get part of the field cut, but then it quit on me hard.

If I let it cool down for awhile, it will run OK again (not great). I also noticed while operating today that the exhaust has taken on a sulphur smell.

Soooo....I'm thinking the ignition system is failing and I have a cold spark. I should be able to replace the points and condenser with a solid state module and get a new coil, perhaps higher voltage too.

Does that analysis sound correct? I've checked most everything related to fuel, and it seems correct so the only thing remaining has to be on the fire side.
 

AAUTOFAB1

Bronze Member
SUPER Site Supporter
Four things it takes to run a combustion engine,(fuel,compression,spark,timing,)if you can rule out three of the four, you can at least be looking in the right direction,other wise you may just be wasting money replacing parts not needed.

Sounds like you have fuel,and it will run, when it cools off timing can be checked for issues buy putting #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke and checking the balancer timing mark in relation to the distributor rotor position ,a compression test is quick and easy and will give you a good clue as to the health of your engine and valves, a weak spark can be caused by primary or secondary igniting loss. unless you have recently replaced cap,rotor,wires,points,condenser, they are suspect,if it was run with a secondary system arcing to ground for a long time the coil may have shorted and maybe only when it gets hot. just some thoughts with out actually being there, i know I'm missing something but hey its the web, thats what ya get.
hope you getter fixed soon:beer:
 

redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
I have a allis chalmers model B that started doing the same thing, on hot days it won't start.

I am going into the magneto when I get back from vacation..

I verified that I have little or no spark when it is at normal running temp. Runs like a champ until it heat soaks.

Carry a spark plug and when it has its hissy fit check it quick and see what you have.

$.02 Mike
 

thepooguy

Member
could be a vaper lock. ive seen where fuel lines have been hap hazerdly replaced and either placed too close to something hot or they didnt put the insulitive wrap back on the new lines. it mostly only gives you fits on hot days!
 

redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
I did check the float many times when it initially started acting up. I now have a tube connected to the drain that comes up the side. (like old yamaha sno machines) I can lean to the left and see the fuel height.

so I have a glass sendiment bowl, clear AUX fuel filter and a sight tube.

Davenay Sure you got good fuel?
 

fogtender

Now a Published Author
Site Supporter
A coil will cause that issue as it breaks down, you can run up the rpm's then is will draw back to a point and then stay there. Also if someone installed a new coil in years past and wired it in backwards, it will run, but poorly. In the electrical system, everything is positive to negative, but the markings on the coil, the + goes to the Positive wire, not to ground.

A collapsed muffler, it will create back pressure and do what you describe as well. It will look good, but the interior baffles rust and fall apart blocking the exhaust gas travel creating back pressure.

A sticking float will cause a lot of black smoke as would the collapsed muffler, and you won't be able to make full RPM.

But before you start to spend the big bucks, check the little stuff first.

Sounds like you have something simple wrong, but too much gas will get down into the oil and thin it out, and that will cause massive damage, simple check is pull the dipstick and check the level and smell the oil, if it smells like gas, then it may have some issues brewing.

Good luck!
 

redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
Davnay seems to have went away.

But the Coil is where I am headed.

I am right in line with the advice above. (New Muffler was the second thing I tried....) I am constantly observing the Fuel and linkages.

I am going after the coil next time I have time to stand still.
 

DaveNay

Klaatu barada nikto
SUPER Site Supporter
I haven't disappeared...I was busy baling hay yesterday.

I still don't have a clear idea of what went wrong, but on Friday when I ran the tractor it was fine (just it's normal issues). With it running again, I was hesitant to change the coil and install the electronic ignition (replace points and breaker), so all I did was put new plugs in it and make sure the plug wires were well seated since this was a low risk. Again, it ran normally all day yesterday.

I am thinking maybe there was water in the gas tank since it sat outside during some really torrential downpours in the last month. On Wednesday I had added a red bottle of Heet so perhaps in the two days it sat, the water was all absorbed.

Anyway, I am still planning to upgrade the entire ignition system since the points and breaker haven't been done in the six years I've owned it, and I don't know when it was ever done before that.
 

muleman

Gone But Not Forgotten
GOLD Site Supporter
You won't regret going electronic, especially if it sits out a lot. I changed an old Briggs on my roto tiller about 5 years ago and never had a problem again. The condensers like to hold moisture and short.
 

DaveNay

Klaatu barada nikto
SUPER Site Supporter
Tractor ran good again this evening while cutting the rest of the hay field.

The last few times I have run the tractor, I have noticed a sulfur smell when the wind is just right. I thought it was something in the exhaust, but tonight when I parked the tractor and climbed down, I could hear a hissing sound and the sulfur smell was really strong. My battery was boiling over! The battery is only a couple years old, and is a commercial and farm grade heavy duty style, so I'm a little surprised. I didn't open the battery compartment...I figured I would let it cool down until tomorrow.

Any ideas what can cause a battery to do that? Is my alternator on the fritz now too? Have I been running off battery (doubtful for 4 hours)?
 

Trakternut

Active member
Tractor ran good again this evening while cutting the rest of the hay field.

The last few times I have run the tractor, I have noticed a sulfur smell when the wind is just right. I thought it was something in the exhaust, but tonight when I parked the tractor and climbed down, I could hear a hissing sound and the sulfur smell was really strong. My battery was boiling over! The battery is only a couple years old, and is a commercial and farm grade heavy duty style, so I'm a little surprised. I didn't open the battery compartment...I figured I would let it cool down until tomorrow.

Any ideas what can cause a battery to do that? Is my alternator on the fritz now too? Have I been running off battery (doubtful for 4 hours)?

No, something with the voltage regulator went screwbangy and it's overcharging the battery. That's why it's boiling over. Sadly, your battery is cooked, so you'll be buying a new one as well as the regulator, or, the alternator if you have an internal regulator.
 

AAUTOFAB1

Bronze Member
SUPER Site Supporter
Over charging a battery will boil the battery,does it have a generator or alternator?if its a generator-check the voltage with a volt meter (engine running at the battery)and see where she's at,the voltage regulator should keep it at 12.5v to 14.1v(for a 12v system)(6.4v-7.8v for a 6 volt system), at lower rpms(1000-2000)if you have higher voltage 15v or higher(9v for a 6v system) then See if you can adjust the regulator,if it is an alternator it may have a internal regulator and may need to be replaced with the alternator,you can damage a new or good battery by over chargeing it, a sulfated battery may also boil when charging but usually will not hold a charge or cranking amps,again i know I'm missing something hope this helps.:smile:
 

Trakternut

Active member
Naww, you didn't miss anything, AAUTOFAB!

By the way, Dave, deciding to just leave 'er sit til morning to cool down was a very wise decision. All those fumes accumulated inside the battery box are explosive. Had something arced when you took the cover off, or if you were to decide to monkey with something, you would have had a battery explode in your face.

I'm betting your battery has a nasty oily looking residue all over it. Mix a strong solution of baking soda and water and pour is over the battery. It'll bubble and foam, neutralizing the acidic residue making it safe to handle and you won't burn holes in your favorite new jeans when you take the battery out. It'll also keep the residue that's on the bottom of the box from eating the box out. After you take the battery out, rinse everything down with a garden hose real good.

I'm betting that if you open the covers on the battery, you'll see the tops of the plates out in the open.
 

redsqwrl

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
I haven't disappeared...I was busy baling hay yesterday.

I still don't have a clear idea of what went wrong, but on Friday when I ran the tractor it was fine (just it's normal issues). With it running again, I was hesitant to change the coil and install the electronic ignition (replace points and breaker), so all I did was put new plugs in it and make sure the plug wires were well seated since this was a low risk. Again, it ran normally all day yesterday.

I am thinking maybe there was water in the gas tank since it sat outside during some really torrential downpours in the last month. On Wednesday I had added a red bottle of Heet so perhaps in the two days it sat, the water was all absorbed.

Anyway, I am still planning to upgrade the entire ignition system since the points and breaker haven't been done in the six years I've owned it, and I don't know when it was ever done before that.

Hey Dave, today I did not need to rake so I promissed my self to switch the AC over to a external coil and Circle can the magneto. As I settled into the project I noticed the points gap looked to be narrower than .019 I went and checked to see where the Fair banks morse manual needed them. It said .020 I pulled the coil tested the magnets and then put the coil in the freezer as my issue is no spark when hot.

Coil tested good.

Points where reset to .020 and touched up lightly.

Put it together (out of time the first try)

Popped right off and never ran better. I ran it silly for longenough for my butt to get sore and I think I fixed it.

To recap.

I cleaned the coil base (there was rust type scum) and gapped the points. I think the fiber block wore down and the heat related issue was just coincedence.

Mark me down and lucky or dumb.

Oh yes the air cleaner was 1/2 full of water How the hell did that happen.

Mike
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
a magnito is a self contained sparking device they work great especialy if you have one that is impulse coupled they wil start like a diesel you must keep the points gaped and bumper lobes lubed and you will get many years of dependable service from it did you fix your regulator as a side note with the magnito the only reason for the battery is to start the engine a magnito generates it's own voltage so it will run just fine with a dead alternator
 
Top