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Fill-Rite Fuel Transfer Pump help ........

Big Dog

Large Member
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
My 1200B 12V wouldn't pump tonight. Just used it 3 days ago, worked fine. Tank is a little low but the suction is at least 12" submerged. Suction is clear and rotor turns but not pulling. Pulled the filter just to remove all doubt and still no go. Pulled the pump cover and carbons look OK and the rotor turned freely.

Soooooooooo anything I need to try or should I just bite the bullet on a rebuild kit ($100)?
 

mla2ofus

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Check the suction tube where it attaches to the bottom of the pump. Sounds like a leak somewhere between the surface of the fuel and the pump.
Mike
 

Big Dog

Large Member
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
Check the suction tube where it attaches to the bottom of the pump. Sounds like a leak somewhere between the surface of the fuel and the pump.
Mike

I did find the joints loose and tightened them. It was getting dark and I just did a hand tighten. When I pull it tomorrow I'll do a closer look and check for cracks/holes etc .... Thanks!
 

pixie

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
Mine doesn't work either.
I'm hoping the suction pipe fell off or leaks.

Well not really hoping since I either have to remove the (heavy) truck cap or the whole tank to remove the pump...

Hope yours is easier to get to.
 
There is a screen in the square block where the standpipe assembly attaches to the pump. You need to remove 4 bolts to take it apart. I somehow managed to suck up a leaf once and it took a while to figure out that was the problem. I've also had the sliding standpipe wear out where there is a teflon seal between the 2 sliding halves. Now I just install the correct length black iron pipe for the tank I am using.
 

Big Dog

Large Member
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
Took the pump apart, found nothing out of the ordinary. Put a solid pipe suction on it and put it back together. Works fine, musta been a crack or two in the PVC suction pipe.
 

mla2ofus

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Glad you got it fixed. I don't know why they put them on. Why not sell it a little cheaper and advise the buyer to furnish the solid suction pipe of the proper length.
Mike
 

TuthillCorp

New member
I too am happy that you resolved your issue with the pump not pumping.

I would also like to comment as to the reason that we place the steel telescoping suction tube in the box with the DC pumps we manufacture.

The DC pumps are usually placed in a tank in the back of a truck or a drum for transporting fuel to off-site locations. When someone purchases the DC pump, like the FR1210C, we want to make sure that the customer has all the components needed to install the pump, including the suction pipe. This suction pipe allows the customer to install the pump right out of the box. It is needed as much as the hose, nozzle and battery cable that are also included with the pump.
 

300 H and H

Bronze Member
GOLD Site Supporter
TuthillCorp....:clap:

I am impresed. Sounds like you have pump service down to an 'electronic" art!!:whistling:

Good show I'd say!:wink:

Regards, Kirk
 

Melensdad

Jerk in a Hawaiian Shirt & SNOWCAT Moderator
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
Damn Dog, I hate you.

My pump was working perfectly . . . I opened this thread . . . now my pump is broken too!

Mine is an OLD pump, worked great up until this weekend. Its an AC, not a DC pump, sits outside on the tank. Going to try to take a look at it over the next day or two.
 

mla2ofus

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
I too am happy that you resolved your issue with the pump not pumping.

I would also like to comment as to the reason that we place the steel telescoping suction tube in the box with the DC pumps we manufacture.

The DC pumps are usually placed in a tank in the back of a truck or a drum for transporting fuel to off-site locations. When someone purchases the DC pump, like the FR1210C, we want to make sure that the customer has all the components needed to install the pump, including the suction pipe. This suction pipe allows the customer to install the pump right out of the box. It is needed as much as the hose, nozzle and battery cable that are also included with the pump.

Then why can't you incorporate a compression style seal on the sliding section so once the tube is the proper length the owner can then tighten it down to form a more perfect seal?
Mike
 

TuthillCorp

New member
Stonebreaker,

Thanks for your comment on incorporating a compression style seal on the suction tube. I can certainly pass this idea on to our marketing folks for further consideration.

Based on your question, can I assume that you have had issues with the suction pipe that we provide with our products? If so, is the seal at the sliding joint where you have had your issues?
 
The seal is the weak link in the pickup tube for sure, I have owned 4 pumps over the years and have bought replacement tubes at least twice. Now I just make my own pickup tube to the correct length. Great overall product by the way.
 

mla2ofus

Well-known member
GOLD Site Supporter
Stonebreaker,

Thanks for your comment on incorporating a compression style seal on the suction tube. I can certainly pass this idea on to our marketing folks for further consideration.

Based on your question, can I assume that you have had issues with the suction pipe that we provide with our products? If so, is the seal at the sliding joint where you have had your issues?

I don't even own one but I've seen enough of them replaced w/ a single length of pipe to know" If it's broke, you need to fix it!!", meaning your design dept. of course.
Mike
 

Snowtrac Nome

member formerly known as dds
GOLD Site Supporter
good advice i also equip mine with a 1 way check valve at the bottom of the tube to keep a priming charge in the pipe when the level gets low
 

pixie

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
I had to do some fishing....
Guess there is just a lot of force in that sloshing fuel.
 

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TuthillCorp

New member
Ouch, you are correct though, the force of the fuel sloshing in the tank, can weaken the suction pipe. Think of standing in a river against the current. The weight of the water rushing past your legs takes a toll. Same situation with the weight of the fuel in your tank pushing back and forth on the suction pipe. The difference is that in the river, the pressure is all directed one way, where in your tank, it is pushing the pipe back and forth.
 

Dargo

Like a bad penny...
GOLD Site Supporter
I too am happy that you resolved your issue with the pump not pumping.

I would also like to comment as to the reason that we place the steel telescoping suction tube in the box with the DC pumps we manufacture.

The DC pumps are usually placed in a tank in the back of a truck or a drum for transporting fuel to off-site locations. When someone purchases the DC pump, like the FR1210C, we want to make sure that the customer has all the components needed to install the pump, including the suction pipe. This suction pipe allows the customer to install the pump right out of the box. It is needed as much as the hose, nozzle and battery cable that are also included with the pump.

Wow! Too cool!!! A company that still cares about their reputation and delivers customer service! I can say that I'm a proud owner of 3 of your pumps. So far, none have failed; even the one I have in my 'transfer' 110 gallon tank that rides in the back of my pickup truck.

It's clear you guys are NOT associated with Home Depot! I would highly advise to never let them sell any of your products. Thanks for your posts!!!
 

muleman

Gone But Not Forgotten
GOLD Site Supporter
Throw the tube away and cut the right length of black pipe. Then grind a notch in the bottom end so it never ends up tight on the bottom of the tank. That is how we always setup farm and portable tanks.
 

Big Dog

Large Member
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
I'd be more than willing to pay an extra $10 for a solid pipe without having to make a separate run at a inopportune time! I had to cut 3" of a 4ft piece.
 

pixie

Well-known member
SUPER Site Supporter
I got a 1"x30" black iron nipple and cut it 3/8 short of the bottom. If I need to, I can park leaning over and pointed downhill :smile:

Thanks to TuthillCorp for offering a new suction pipe. :thumb:
 

TuthillCorp

New member
Big Dog,

The reason that we don't use a solid pipe is because it would more than double the size of the box to get the pipe in the box. That doesn't work to well for stocking the pump.

I'd be more than willing to pay an extra $10 for a solid pipe without having to make a separate run at a inopportune time! I had to cut 3" of a 4ft piece.
 

Melensdad

Jerk in a Hawaiian Shirt & SNOWCAT Moderator
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
GOT MY ANCIENT PUMP WORKING TODAY.

Turned out to be a wire that broke. Simple fix.
 

TuthillCorp

New member
My 1200B 12V wouldn't pump tonight. Just used it 3 days ago, worked fine. Tank is a little low but the suction is at least 12" submerged. Suction is clear and rotor turns but not pulling. Pulled the filter just to remove all doubt and still no go. Pulled the pump cover and carbons look OK and the rotor turned freely.

Soooooooooo anything I need to try or should I just bite the bullet on a rebuild kit ($100)?

First, I just want to be sure that you had replaced the suction tube. I noticed that you thought you had some cracks in the PVC pieces, so I am assuming that you replaced the tube with a black iron pipe or something similar.

You can also check the bypass valve. It is behind the large nut on the side of the pump. If there is something stuck behind the plastic poppet, that is holding the valve open, the pump won't generate vacuum, so it can't pump.

You can also remove the pump from the tank by removing the 4 bolts on the inlet flange and check the screen at the inlet. At the same time, you can place your palm over the inlet of the pump and turn the pump on to see if there is any vacuum.

Make sure that the battery cable is on the right connection to the battery. If you reverse the polarity, the pump will run backwards. It sounds like it should be working, yet it can't pump if the motor is running in reverse.

If all the above fails, then yes, you should rebuild the pump. It will replace the rotor, rotor cover, rotor key, vanes, bypass valve, screen, and all gaskets. You could have a gasket that is just not sealing very well and is allowing air in.

Keep me posted on what you find.
 

Big Dog

Large Member
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
First, I just want to be sure that you had replaced the suction tube. I noticed that you thought you had some cracks in the PVC pieces, so I am assuming that you replaced the tube with a black iron pipe or something similar. Correct!

You can also check the bypass valve. It is behind the large nut on the side of the pump. If there is something stuck behind the plastic poppet, that is holding the valve open, the pump won't generate vacuum, so it can't pump. Did that found nothing!

You can also remove the pump from the tank by removing the 4 bolts on the inlet flange and check the screen at the inlet. At the same time, you can place your palm over the inlet of the pump and turn the pump on to see if there is any vacuum. Did that found nothing!

Make sure that the battery cable is on the right connection to the battery. If you reverse the polarity, the pump will run backwards. It sounds like it should be working, yet it can't pump if the motor is running in reverse. Used the tractor battery and my jump starter, doubt I crossed them both times but hey I'm old.

If all the above fails, then yes, you should rebuild the pump. It will replace the rotor, rotor cover, rotor key, vanes, bypass valve, screen, and all gaskets. You could have a gasket that is just not sealing very well and is allowing air in. Running fine since replacing the suction pipe.

Keep me posted on what you find.

See answers above and thanks for the concern!
 

TuthillCorp

New member
Big Dog,

Thanks for your reply. It sounds as if there is no vacuum being generated by the pump, hence it can't lift the fuel (actually, the atmospheric pressure can't push the fuel to the pump in the absence of a vacuum).

You mention that you have a 1200B. Just how old is your pump? We haven't manufactured the "B" series of pumps for over 10 years. If you have never rebuilt the pump, I am sure that doing so now will help.

If you are going to consider replacing the pump, I just want you to be aware that we have a couple of different options that will give you a higher flow rate. The 4200 series will do around 20 GPM, and our new 3200 series will do around 25 (both will depend on what accessories you add to the pump).

If you choose to get the rebuild kit, I would like to know the length of your vanes. It will make a difference in which kit you need. Toward the end of the "B" series pump, we made the cavity in the pump a bit deeper, so the vanes had to get a bit longer.

Let me know what you decide to do.
 

Big Dog

Large Member
Staff member
GOLD Site Supporter
Thanks for the reply! I'm surely not in the position to purchase a new pump when I have one that works. I really don't need much when all I do is fill a 15 gallon tractor tank. As far as the age I haven't a clue, purchased it with the tank from a forum member (BCzoom). What are the vane lengths? The ones I have are approximately 1 1/4 inch.
 

TuthillCorp

New member
Thanks for the reply! I'm surely not in the position to purchase a new pump when I have one that works. I really don't need much when all I do is fill a 15 gallon tractor tank. As far as the age I haven't a clue, purchased it with the tank from a forum member (BCzoom). What are the vane lengths? The ones I have are approximately 1 1/4 inch.

The length of the t vanes are 1.2485" and 1.1245, so you have the longer vane.

The rebuild kit is 4200KTF8739. This kit will also contain a new shaft seal that is located behind the rotor. If you don't have a leak (you would see fuel coming out the weep hole by the bypass valve cap if you had a leak), don't replace this seal. Just keep the new one in case you ever do get a leak.

You will also get a new rotor cover in this kit. Please use the new rotor cover with the new rotor. We went from rotors and covers that were not hardened to hardened ones, and then back. If you install a rotor that is now not hardened and you have a hardened cover, you will wear the rotor out in a very short time, so replace both the rotor and cover that you get in your kit.

Thanks!
 
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